mobythevan

OK, looks to me like it is still pipe size that matters. So 2.5" v-band flange should fit what I have with outside diameter of about 3". A 3" v-band flange has an outer diameter of about 3 and 5/8 inches.

I replied to this and my post got thrown away. Extra code has the ability to control several features from the MAP varying instead of the TPS. You could try that, but I would just put a potentiometer type TPS on there and forget about it.

My new turbo has a v-band flange on the outlet. Are v-band flanges measured by the outermost diameter of the flange or by the pipe size (like inner diameter of flange). The outer flange measures 3 inches. But the flange I see for sale says the pipe diameter is 3 inches so that wouldn't work. Measuring standards are always confusing.

Oh man my car is ugly, but it will get painted one of these days. I am just having too much fun driving it. Here is another pic from the front. I welded mounting brackets to the car for the lower IC mounts.

Took it for a drive today. No doubt that it pulls harder now. Still running the same boost about 14psi. Yow, I was flipping a u to catch a type R and I didn't think I would ever get traction to take off again. Caught up and passed him, but it wasn't much fun. If he even tried to keep up I couldn't tell. Out here in the country a type R is about as good as it gets, boring. There is an old vette that sounds good but I haven't caught him when I'm in the datsun yet.

I run that dynomax bullet. I made a tip of my own that looks more like stock. I really like the sound. Everyone that has ridden in the car likes the sound. They always say that they didn't expect it to sound more like a muscle car than a rice grinder. It definitely gets loud when you are in full boost, full throttle. But I like it.

I hope I get a little bit of time tomorrow to drive it. I may turn boost up just a little bit more. It has to perform better than the sabb 9000 one, but it remains to see if that difference is enough to measure with g-tech or for me to tell with the butt-o-meter.

I figure with the new turbo on its way I better get busy and lose that saab 9000 IC. Here are a couple pics. It doesn't set as low as you might think. It is still above the bottom of the lower radiator support.

update, pulled the 4 pin module and just went to using the 8 pin module ony. Set it in bypass mode for now. The car ran 5 minutes or so and then the trigger started going in and out to the ECU. I figure that lowering the value of R10 is putting to much current draw on the 8 pin module to trigger the ECU. So tonight I hooked up pin R from the 8 pin module to a 2k resistor and then to pin 6 of the opto isolator. Removed diode D5 and resistor R10. Now what I am doing is not even using the opto part of the opto isolator and just running it through pin 6 like it was a regular transistor. This is working great. Ran the car for 40 minutes with no issues. After this is tested out more I will make a schematic to show what I am doing here. I don't see a reason to use the opto isolator as an isolator because that was for systems that may introduce high voltages on the line and burn up stuff(original type fuel hookups that run from the coil as trigger). With the 8 pin module it only puts out 5 volts on pin R. So far so good. I downloaded MSnS_extra024f code to try out the dwell control. Tomorrow I will wire up so the megasuirt uses cranking bypass mode during cranking and then reverts back to ECU control once rpm is above 300.

I saw one in here from Jersey I think. But searched all over and can't find it.

Like I said in the other thread I went ahead and got the turbo with the clipped turbine, so I'll just see how it works.

nice picture, so does that settle the thin ringland issue?

That is correct. And the fact that the code is still a little bit in the experimental stage made me avoid it. However, I decided last night that if I am going to troubleshoot a problem I would rather spend my time to get the 8 pin setup working because it gives the cranking bypass mode which allows the car to crank and start fast in cold weather and any other time. So tonight I will remove the 4 pin module and use the 8 pin for both functions: trigger the ECU and fire the coil. I will be upgraded to MSnS_Extra024e code so the dwell control fixes are the best available. I am just going to start by putting the 8 pin module into the bypass mode permanently so I can run the engine and check a few other things. The bypass mode gives a fixed 10 degree BTDC timing. Then I will set it up to go back to computer timing control once the engine is running.

Got all of the grounding issues cleaned up, but the new coil didn't make it in yet. The problem seems to be more solid now, which makes it easier to troubleshoot. If the new coil doesn't help I am just going to get rid of the 4 pin HEI module and only use the 8 pin module to fire the coil and use dwell control in the extra code.

My thinking at this point in my life is this: I am not willing to sacrifice my z car to have any other car. There are atleast 10 other projects I would like to have or put together right now, but I will only do them and keep the z at the same time. Like my 34 pontiac. If it means taking 3 years longer to build the pontiac because I keep the z then so be it. I will not sell it just to get the 34 pontiac together, because it will never give me the feeling that the z car does.

Well, I just went ahead and bought the clipped turbine turbo. If I don't like it at all I will sell it or get another like it for a V8. I'll keep you guys informed when i get it installed. At my pace that will probably be 3 months. I am still going to build a weld el header when I put it in, because I want practice at doing that.

I do that kind of stuff about every other week. I've got to get better about keeping a log book or something.

Yeah, I saw that in some of their info. Hmmm....

The TPI install isn't out of the woods yet. Found out that the engine starts and sounds great, then after a few minutes of running something heats up or goes south and I start loosing spark. Its gets worse and dies. Let it set for a while and then it sounds great again. This is built with ebay parts, so I'll try a different coil next. Also, the grounding setup right now leaves a lot to be desired. The battery is in the trunk and I am not happy with the amount of grounding to the frame/engine/body for all the electronics. More to follow.

Great info. I added it to the sticky with only very minor editing thanks

Any ideas how this would work on the L28ET, how this clipping may affect spool? The clip is 10 degrees from original blade position. I know everyone will say just get a stage 3 turbine, but I am curious anyway.