mobythevan

I have had a "he said, she said" problem with the neighbor for several months and now she made up enough BS to get a restraining order against me and a wreckless endangerment harassment charge which is a class 1 misdemeanor in Colorado. I have hired a lawyer, but now unfortuantely I am on the bad end of the deal and have to spend all of the money. She is a real piece of work and it just goes to show how the whiner gets all the attention. They threatened my wife and my family and I have never even said a curse word to them, but last night I was the one that got drug into jail regardless of the facts. For my own protection I was told because I might harm myself. Anyway I will get up an ad in the for sale section in a couple days, but the quick rundown is that I am near Colorado Springs and I need to get $3000 firm for the car. Proxlamus has ridden in the car and can attest that it gets up and goes 73 240z as rust free as z cars get, just a little under the battery tray. L28et, 450cc injectors, JSK rail 60mm TB, ported intake 3 inch mandrelk bent exhaust t3/t04e 57 trim turbo @14psi dsm BOV custom heat shields 280zxt hood vents MSnS_Extra Tech Edge Wideband NPR intercooler BW T5 with ACT 6 puck clutch 240mm R200 8 point roll bar urethane mustache bushings new master cylinder new tie rods GM alternator electric cooling fan urethane front air dam no heater or radio in the car right now compression is good, car runs great I also have a pile of extra parts like half shafts, etc that can go with it if you want them WIth this mess going on I won't have time to mess with shipping so basically I will put up some pics and if anyone is interested show up here and I will take you for a drive and then if you want it you can drive it home or haul it home. Sorry it has come to this, but the way this woman is going she might have me stuck in jail tomorrow with another BS story now that she was able to get the restraining order and harassment charge. PM me for my phone number

Here is a funny pic I came across of my garage. My wife standing by a nav star ford diesel engine. She looks like a kid that was told to go stand by mickey mouse or something, I hope she doesn't see this. heh heh

mine is around 13.5 at idle. I have 450cc injectors and I can lean it out however much I want at idle. Not sure what you are seeing

You may want to try something like 6ms cranking dwell, 3-4ms running dwell Sounds like it is coming along nicely.

What dwell settings are you running with the zxt ignitor?

Nice setup. We just started construction on a 60x100x14 building but it will never house a car or tool. It is for my wife to have an indoor place to ride her horses in the bad weather. I am still stuck in my 24x30 detached garage which doesn't have enough room to fit my 1 ton dually project. Oh well, I can ride horses inside now.

This is true, and like Sleeperz said it behaves pretty much like the clutch he is using. The flipside, the ACT clutch is rated for 500 pounds of torque, it does not slip.

for an experiment could you cycle the ecu on and off maybe 5 times before warm starting to let 10 seconds of fuel run through the rail. Then if it starts OK you know for sure its vapor lock. Seems like 10 seconds worth of fuel flowing would cool the rail and remove air in the rail??

A knock sensor will only start pulling timing after detecting knock. That is the scary part to me that knock is occuring at all can cause damage at high boost levels, sensor or not. The are experimental circuits to use knock sensor with MSnS_Extra.

I would suggest using the newer code like 024s9 becuase it allows after start enrichment to vary based on engine temp. The earlier codes only allow one after start setting that is used all the time and causes problems with warm start. The new code will allow you to have almost no after start enrichment in these cases.

But it only pumps (pushes) on the exhaust stroke. Otherwise it creates a vacuum in the cylinder that the pressure on the intake side fills. The one case that has always interested me that seems to go against the formula is the northstar boosted engine. Since I haven't built one myself I have to guess that the actuall testers did more mods than they admit to. But the engine stock is 300hp (flywheel I'm sure), 10psi boost yields 650hp (again flywheel I'm sure). Should take more like 16psi boost to make that. The builders as I remember claim all stock components just add boost. Does the northstar just have a head, cam, valve setup that compliments the boost? David Vizard claims in his boost books that when an engine is built with the correct compliment of parts for the given type of boost (super, centrif, turbo, etc) that you see a much wider margin between it NA hp figure and boosted hp figure. That is what I get from reading his books anyway. Maybe some of the people with higher numbers that Bastaad remembers had some other mods, maybe they didn't. But I can tell you that it is hard for me to remember which hp numbers from this site go with which persons build and what stage of the build they were on at the time of dyno. Anyway, interesting thread.

I don't like it when people talk about push vs pull when describing air into the engine. That works I suppose if you have a positive displacement pump, but a turbo isn't. Talking about fluid being pumped is one thing since fluid does not compress and will be postively displaced by a pump. You can't turn the turbo compressor 10 revolutions and get x amount of air flow since it is not a sealed pumping device. In the fluid example the pump "pulling" fluid through a pipe creates a vacuum on the pump side and whatever pressure is on the other end of the pipe does the pushing. When the pump is on the fluid side it does the pushing and because fluid cannot compress the pump exerts its entire force directly on the fluid. I think comparing fluid versus gas quickly breaks down since you guys have made this discussion more technical.

I built the tech edge unit and it IS harder to build than megasquirt is. There are more components and the instructions were harder to follow. I also had a short on the pcb itself which made troubleshooting hard. Hopefully they don't have those issues anymore with their pcbs. If I had it to do over again I would just buy the LM1 unit. IMO, the tech edge unit just didn't save enough money to make it a worthwhile DIY project like megasuirt does. But if you want experience soldering it is good.

cool, I was hoping more people would try this out. I have the tech edge WB unit, now I just need to get it hooked up to the megasquirt. good job

Are you still planning to use the hilborn setup in the future?

I always like to see that another car is up and running. congrats

I don't think you will dissapte enough heat by mounting the heat sink directly to the body of the car. I believe you will need a heat sink. And it definitely needs to mount flat to whatever so that the entire metal backing is in contact to transfer heat. In the GM dizzy the rotor acts as a cooling fan and the module mounts to a sizable chunk of aluminum (or is it steel can't remember). Just for an experiment mount it to a nice heatsink and see if the problem goes away. I am a big fan of easy experiments like this to make sure you are troubleshooting the right component.

That is exactly how I ended up with a turbo L28et car. I had the same thought and when I showed up at the junk yard to get an L6 there was the L28et, and the rest is history. Hahahahah, so don't expect things to get any different if you try to take an easy way out. My advice, if you enjoy working on the car keep it up, if not can it. I'm only going to work on stuff that I enjoy, if becomes a job I will not continue.

We had almost this identical behaviour on the TPI engine. Run for 20-40 minutes then BAM, dead. Spark would show, but noticed that it was yellow, instead of blue. Found out that the HEI module did not have heat sink compound when it was mounted and it was overheating. Properly mounted the HEI module and no longer have a problem. It was the same thing, you had to let it set like 20 minutes to cool down enough to restart.

http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=98367

Good to hear, I know you have been getting ready for MS for a while. Let us know how the EDIS setup works.

Your dizzy is an 83 zxt unit so you don't need a GM 4 pin between the dizzy and the tach input to MS. Your dizzy will wire directly to the tach input like the schematic in the install guide shows using only a pullup resistor. Let me know if you have questions because your wiring for what appears to be red and black wire from the dizzy to the 4 pin is not correct. As for the MSD unit, I have not tried that and I am not 100% sure what is required on that end. You will have 4 wires from the dizzy. One is power, one is ground, one is the trigger that connects to the tach line and has a pullup resistor. The install guide lists the color codes.

you worry wart

I was just being sarcastic, never comes across right on forums.