mobythevan

TO4E 57 trim, I verified by removing the compressor housing and measuring the compressor wheel. T3 turbine with 10 degree clipped wheel. It is 60AR compressor housing and turbine AR is same as stock turbo was.

I finished my hybrid turbo upgrade on Saturday. I got a good scare when I started it up. Let it run for about 5 minutes at idle like directions said. Then revved it up a bit and the fan belt squealed(think I dripped some coolant on it). I thought the compressor ground out, I hate it when you get in that mode where you expect stuff to happen. I took it for a drive with the MBC still set like it was with stock T3. It was set to 14 psi before and everything worked great, ran 14psi with new turbo. Spool seems to be in the same neighborhood as before, if it changed any couldn't be 200rpm. The new turbo has 10 degree clipped T3 turbine. The new turbo pulls harder all the way to 6000rpm. Ran against my rev limiter for the first time. The car is faster by quite a bit(gtech shows around 40hp gain at same boost, does that seem reasonable with no other upgrades?). It will break the tires loose on pavement when the turbo hits in second gear now, didn't do that before. I am happy with the upgrade. Since I am at such a high altitude I am going to raise it up to 17psi which should be more like 14psi at sea level. BTW, I didn't have to retune anything in megasquirt after the upgrade. No ping and AFRs look good. I took it on a good 60 mile drive into town and everything seems solid.

After a few weeks of problems I think we finally have MSnS_Extra controlling spark using the small cap TPI dizzy with 8 pin HEI module that is inside of it. With help from James and Lance on the megasquirt site a hardware triggering problem was found. Now the MSnS code controls the module so that it uses bypass mode for cranking (which gives a real fast fire up) and then switches back to ECU controlled timing. Dwell control also seems to be working good and is user configurable for cranking, running and minimum discharge. I am using MSnS_Extra024n code for this setup.

With MSnS extra code there is a soft rev limit that retards timing and a hard rev limit that drops spark. You specify how much spark to drop. I have been running with the extra code so long now I forget what is available in original MSnS.

I need to get my WBO2 hooked to the MSnS_Extra so I can use those target AFR tables, so many things to do. The instructions are written up for using the Tech Edge WBO2 like I have. I am still waiting on my v-band flange for the new turbo.

From what I have seen, people who have problems running with the O2 sensor connected have exhaust leaks upstream of the sensor. MS in theory will run in closed loop mode using the O2 sensor, but I haven't tried it because I tuned my cruising AFRs to about 15.3:1 so the ECU would try to go back to 14.7:1 if I turned it on to use the NB sensor.

It looks like an XS power type from the compressor housing. Look around the net for pictures of those compressor housing falling apart because they are glued together. It might not be though, seller is careful not to give us a picture of the front that would have XS power cast into the housing or a tag saying such. I would ask for a pic of the front of the compressor.

The ECU wants a temp that is taken physically from as close to the combustion chamber as possible. Could be coolant temp, head temp, temp at thermostat, etc. Hook any of those to coolant temp input line and if it is not a GM sensor then use easytherm to re-calibrate.

If you had a wideband it would probably make more sense to hook up and use target AFR tables. I don't use the NB sensor. I set EGO settings to not use the NB sensor until I'm above 6500rpm, thereby disabling it.

heh heh

The only thing that seemed wrong to me was that he was wearing a helmet? I mean, there was plenty of foam there.

Earth Is Round heh heh E I R E=I*R I=E/R R=E/I I don't have one for power?? P(watts)=IE P=(E^2)/R P=(I^2)*R To lower confusion I just use E everywhere for voltage, or to raise confusion???? Those are the only equations I ever use. I slept through AC circuit class in college. The prof was monotone. My friend said he would just walk up to my desk and look at me while I was sleeping and then go on. He should have kicked me or something. I enjoyed op amp design the most. I ended up taking 3 different op amp classes while I was in school. I am sure I will end up with an op amp circuit hanging off my MSnS soon. I wanted to by some load sensors and build my own vehicle weight input, for using the g-tech stuff. Would be kind of neat to read out the weight real time on the laptop through MSnS. Might put off some women that get in for a ride. Since this thread resurfaced can we move it over to the megasquirt area?

pullup is usually 1/8 watt or 1/4 watt P=IV I=V/R=14volts/1k ohms=.014 amps .014 amps*14 volts=.196 watts calculation is in between 1/8 watt and 1/4 watt for a 1k pullup to 14 volts.

Extra code works the same as regular MSnS. It just gives more options and larger tables for spark and fuel. If your talking about MSnS versus MS then look at the install sticky. Has anyone tried using the stock knock sensor yet? that is a good question, I haven't

There are two local electronic shops in Colorado Springs that carry them, just FYI for anybody that lives around here. I think Centennial and OEM are the correct names of the two stores.

i just removed mine the other day. I double nutted them so I could use a wrench to turn them. I got lucky because one broke off and 3 out of 4 stripped the holes a little coming out. I kept using the blaster oil and working back and forth. Took a couple hours. I then cleaned the threads up with a tap and bought new 2.25" long studs from http://www.atpturbo.com They don't list them you have to call or email. They were 10mm. I put jb weld on the threads when I installed the new ones and figured this is the last time I mess with the stock manifold anyway.

It won't hurt my feelings if you can get one already assembled. If he will give you a good price on that setup go ahead. Sorry to hear the experiment ended up a bust, but most of the fun is trying, and I'm sure you learned a few things from it.

I ordered 2.5" v-band flanges and clamps and they are too big. It seems there are two inside diameters. Apparently the smallest inside diameter is the right one, which I didn't use. So it looks like I need a 2" v-band flange. Try this again.

Just FYI, I was just looking around trying to decide if I am going to restrict the oil to my turbo and found this listed on one turbo parts site: I have seen it suggested to run .080" restriction hole. Just thought I would throw this in because I didn't know that ball bearing turbos require more oil restriction.

My stock T3 that I pulled this week with unknown miles on it was working great, not leaking any oil at 14psi boost. But, it has enough side to side play that I can get the compressor to rub the side of the housing. Apparently when running the oil pressure in the bushing keeps the compressor from grinding out, at least up to this point. I think it was due an upgrade.

That is what I am doing on the TPI megasquirt install. I ordered a DB37 gender changer and just used it instead of builkding a cable. I will be mounting both the ECU and realy board in the same spot. I did verify on the gender changer that all signals were connected. It is working for me.

I whined too early. I took today off because I'm sick, but that won't stop me from wrenching on the car. I pulled the manifold and got it on my bench. Welded a nut on that broken stud and worked it some more and got it off. Worked the others easier this time with double nuts and got them all out. Cleaned the threads with a tap and now I can screw a stud into all 4 holes all the way with my fingers. I was worried for a little bit. If I don't run into another issue like that I may have it back up next week. What length studs are you guys using with the 1/2 inch spacer? Also, does anyone know off hand what the fitting is out of the block to the oil feed line for the turbo? It almost looks like british threads to me.

I just took a chance with an ebay guy. He advertised it as a new garrett. It is probably a rebuild, but seems to be everything he said it was. It came with internal wastegate and actuator so I can't complain. We'll see how long it lasts.

broke the first stud off tonight on the exhaust manifold. It seemed to be coming loose. Put penetrating oil on it. Worked it back and forth and kept bringing it out more and then bam. I was just using a box end wrench. I hate studs anywhere on the exhaust system. So I guess out comes the intake manifold and exhaust manifold so I can try to get the studs out with the welder. If that doesn't work, then forget it, I'll just go ahead and start building that custom weld el exhasut manifold I have been talking about.

just got my new turbo in yesterday. T3/T04E 57 trim compressor in 60 A/R housing. Standard T3 turbine, but clipped 10 degrees.