mobythevan

I am going to pick one of these up in the next couple days, just thought I would ask if anyone has used it and if there was anything different in pulley alignment from the standard GM type alternators. I will be using it to convert my 240z to GM internal regulated alternator. It is 85 amp for $45. I just searched on several different gm cars from the early eighteis to find a reasonable priced high amp unit. I think this showed up for a cadillac.

I removed that line and blocked the intake when I installed my DSM BOV. My setup seems to work great. That original bypass is fairly small diameter and I can't imagine it could move much volume of air during the bypass. Like they say, maybe it works up to 10-12psi.

actually did you mean 20 inches of vacuum just messing with you

oops, my bad. having one of those days I guess.

If you buy the conversion manual from JTR (jags that run) it has the templates inside for making your own mounts.

wow, this post made it back. I am still working my twin turbo V8 build. I have the multi port fuel injection manifold, throttle bodies, and misc parts setting in the garage. But the major thing I decided is that I can't start by putting the engine in a 240z(too much work at once and I would lose interest). So it is going elsewhere first. I am building my own turbo headers because I can't imagine many cases where pre-made headers would clear everything like I want and give me the turbo placement I want. Looking to fire the turbo V8 this summer in my 34 pontiac. Then who knows maybe I'll put a turbo big block in the pontiac and move the turbo sbc into the 240z. Since my projects are a mixture budget and opportunity they are always re-shaping.

I've got two words for you: Astro Chicken ha hah thats too funny, yeah we wasted a lot of time playing those, my cousin bought them all.

You couldn't, you either need to install larger injectors or stick with the FMU to increase pressure/flow.

You could use the BTM with MSnS, but what may be the easier route is to use an NA dizzy with the BTM and then only use MS for fuel. That would be the easiest to setup and be going. That would save having to precisely trigger MS for spark use. It would also save the extra messing around with it controlling the MSD box. But, ulimately the spark control in MSnS would give you easier ignition curve adjustment and serve the function of the BTM.

I vote you by the MSnS and then use the new extra code with a solenoid to have electronic boost control, then I can use it when it works. Actually I say stay with the signal from the intake side.

When problems like this bother me I take a more scientific approach, like adding a second boost gauge for testing purposes. Run the signal from the intake manifold and then add a second boost gauge at the compressor outlet to see what is really does(is it really going 2psi higher or 10psi higher at the spike?). Gauges are pretty cheap. Maybe you need a buddy to help watch all the output. That may not be totally accurate with cheap gauges and people doing the logging, but hey, it would add some insight into the issues or non issues. I did this in a round about way with my setup using MSnS to log before and after IC install to measure pressure drop and give me an idea how much more psi the turbo is pushing at the compressor outlet than the intake manifold.

OK, here is a picture of the car, but you have to imagine it has front air dam, removed louvers, new wheel tires and solid yellow paint. I hope to do all those things by next summer so the car looks as good as it runs. Another pic of the rollcage. The downpipe comparison with stock unit. And the progression of cutting the hood vents, don't ask where the cardboard came from.