mobythevan

Ok, here is what I am thinking now, run two 160lb/hr injectors at the throttle body. I had planned to run with 36-42 lb/hr on each cylinder in multi port mode. But I can easily set up to have throttle body type injection and solve the cooling rotor issue. I am staying with fuel injection because this project is another chance for me to play with megasquirt.

My application is for a 454 for towing in my 1 ton truck. I wanted to tap into some of the knowledge on this site and also have a thread for other people looking into used chargers for hybrid z cars. I went ahead and bought a B&M 250 supercharger. Got the charger, carb plate, belt, pulleys for $1000. It looks like it is in good shape. It has the teflon strips on the rotors. It has 16 rib pulleys because it came off a boat. My major question now became.... can I run the supercharger dry? I have an EFI manifold and I want to set up with megasquirt and just put a throttle body on top. Holley's official stance on this is that the fuel helps cool the rotors. They said if I don't run it at high rpm it would "probably" be ok. I will only run 6 pounds of boost for this setup. What do you guys think? Other guys that use the EFI manifold told me that they add a few injectors on top the charger along with the multi port injectors. Megasquirt would allow me to do stuff like that, it just isn't what I intended. I just wanted the simple multi port EFI, supercharger and 6 punds of boost for towing. BTW, my dad had a log truck with the silver 92 and it did run good. Impressive to see what a truck can do with 86,000 pounds. The last log truck he owned had a Cat inline 6 550hp. Awesome.

Notice in the pic that I have an EFI manifold. Can I run this supercharger dry with EFI? I read something about not being able to do that. It is a B&M 250 charger with the teflon strips. What do you guys think, is the fuel needed for cooling, lube?

yeah, hopefully off to the machine shop this week. Its already torn down.

heh heh, really I am building this for my truck. Its almost as big as the 240z. Thought you guys would enjoy drooling over the pic.

http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=89790 Also, what is the best way to divide the cylinders for alternating injections or does it matter? With MS you have two banks of 3 injectors that can fire simulatneous or alternating.

I second that. I got tired of guessing on my setup real quick and got a wideband.

This has some neat info about the northstar itself. What I found interesting is the lack of support for rebuilding the engine.

I don't know much about superchargers but they seem pretty simple. So what would I look for in a used supercharger? Just play in the rotors. How long do they last? Holley/Weiand/B&M are all the same company right? There doesn't seem to be much to where out on them.

old school arcade http://www.klov.com/game_detail.php?letter=0&game_id=6777 heh heh

I guess you have to start checking all the simple stuff. Does FIDLE at the terminal block pulse during cranking? If yes then HEI module/coil is wired wrong or bad. If no then trace back. Is HEI module grounded good. It has to be to fire the coil. My HEI grounds through one of the bolts that holds it down.

I used the 021p and 021u versions of the extra code and they worked like regular MSnS. I didn't test with 020i9

Sure, Q5 is the transistor that pulls the idl wire to ground in order to fire the HEI module. If you have a DMM you can put it in diode testing mode and check Q5 with the positive lead on the base and the negative lead on the emmitter. On the MS schematic pin 2 is base and pin 1 is emmitter. You should measure something like .6 to .7 volts if the transistor is good. I have also noticed a spark at power down sometimes.

Also, notice in the schematic that my pullup on the FIDLE wire is to 5 volts. Some people may pull up to 12volts and maybe this causes some of the heating of HEI modules? not sure, but I don't have heating problems with mine so far. It is on a big heatsink though.

Ok, here is a horrible picture from early on of my relay board. Don't laugh. Notice how the green wire is installed in place of the fast idle relay. That green wire connects IDL to FIDLE so you get the ignition signal all the way to the terminal block. Then you need to add the pullup resistor on the FIDLE wire that goes to your HEI module.

The on and off set point have to be different so that the cooling fan won't be switched on/off rapidly as you pass one point. A common problem in electronics. The solution is to have hysteresis, on and off points that differ. Filters out noise at the setpoint.

auxiliary air regulator that controls fast idle. Coolant runs through the base of it.

I don't have a heater anymore and don't plan to put one back. I want to plug the block and have no heater hose at all for a cleaner engine bay. Do any of you guys run that way? I need different fitting up front so i can still have the coolant route to the AAR, but plug the heater outlet. Any nice solutions for that?

Got MSnS-Extra021u code installed. This fixed the fuel pump prime issue. I was able to load my msq file over from 021p so I didn't have to re-enter anything. I did re-calibrate TPS again. Installed the transistor circuit and the cooling fan control works as advertised. The only thing left to do is conect my wideband output to the megasuirt box so I can use the target AFR tables and log AFR values for use in visual log viewer. I'll get to that sometime.

My transistors came in today so I am going to add the circuit to control my cooling fan relay this weekend also. I have been wanting to get rid of that goofy summit fan controller with the thermostat going into the upper radiator hose. I hate that copper tube coming out of there.

Looks like you would have to use a ford EDIS setup if you want to use the current MS hardware. Or wait for UMS which will support coil on plug applications.

Concerning the bootloader pin I found out that if you have original megasquirt code you still have to use the bootloader pin to program. But, if you have updated to MSnS, MSnS_EDIS, or MSnS_Extra then you no longer have to use the bootloader pin. Just use the download.bat file (some download.bat files don't work right, get the one from 021u code, it prompts you correctly based on your current setup). This is the only thing about messing with experimental code like this. You get little glithces like the download.bat file still being updated, etc. I'll be putting the 021u code and MT225b358 this weekend. I'll let you know what happens.