mobythevan

This may sound funny, but I am trying to get as much gain as I can while retaining about the same spool rpm as the stock setup. For my goals with the car I like having full boost by 2800rpm in 3rd gear. So I don't mind sacrificing hp by staying at the lower rpms and would rather stay with a turbo that spools early and runs out of breath early than have spool at 35-3800 rpms. I will be more than happy if I can retain the early boost and reach about 320hp at the wheels.

If I could get a stage 1 turbine that is clipped for a good price would it be worth not getting a stage 3 turbine?

I think I have finally reached the point that I want to upgrade from the stock turbo. I am putting down around 220hp with the stock turbo, saab intercooler and stock log type exhaust manifold. I have an NPR intercooler (small one). I want to put the typical 57 trim TO4E hybrid turbo in and put the NPR IC in at the same time. Also, I want to build a new exhaust header from the Weld Els when I install the new turbo. With the three changes at once what would you guys expect me to pick up in power at about the same boost level of 14psi? And remember I am at high altitude so 14psi is more like 11psi at sea level. I am hoping to pick up about 100hp? I want to build the new header because I would like the benifits of better spool and flow. The stock log type seems pretty small. Get your guess in now and we'll see what the outcome is.

Good news, got MSnS to fire up TPI sbc setup. I used the 8 pin HEI module in the small cap TPI distributor to trigger megasquirt. That only required connecting two wires to the distributor. One wire to power the 8 pin module and one wire to connect pin R to the tach input of megasquirt. This uses the variable reluctor star in the distributor to give trigger angle timing for spark to megasquirt. Then used FIDLE output to trigger a 4 pin HEI module just like the L28ET install. 4 pin HEI then fires the coil. I cut the side off an extra small cap dizzy to aid in setting up correct trigger angles and rotor to post relationship. It is also cool to watch the spark inside while its running. I did not use the 8 pin HEI module to fire the coil because there is still some question to the reliability of dwell control in 021u code. I also had to change the value of R10 in the megasquirt so it would reliably trigger from the 8 pin module. Megasquirt is intended to trigger from a 12 volt source. The 8 pin module has a 5 volt signal so I lowered R10 to keep the current at a similar level as if a 12 volt source was used. Did run into a couple problems that we introduced. One was a bad connection to the air temp sensor. The other was using a 7 year old battery that won't hold a charge. That caused some really strange sparks to come out. After the install is completed and tested out some more I may make a quick post that has the schematic for TPI install. This would also work for anyone running megasquirt on any sbc and just using the TPI distributor. The triggering of megasquirt and wiring of the coil is the most useful information.

I got the second pistons in and they are at the machine shop now. Should have everything back next week and I'll start assembling the monster. I really like the thickness of the top when i saw the pistons first hand. Very rugged piston. Maybe my L28et will blow up and this is the only other running engine I will have around for a while, yeah right, like I would try lowering this thing in.

I swapped the turbo engine into my 240z. I have $3000 in it total( car, engine and all upgrades to date)and you can look at my sig for all the extra stuff I put in. I run 14psi boost intercooled and it kicks butt. Took about a year to get it really going good, but I'm slow. In 280z you will pick up a little extra weight on the car. I enjoyed my swap even when it only made stock boost of 7 pounds. oh, and welcome to the group.

D9 is in the driver circuit for IDL, which will be your spark control if your running MSNS. Did you hook up to a 4 pin HEI module? If so you might have hooked up wrong and that blew it out. Or the transistor in that circuit was installed wrong??? Not sure. When you hook up to a 4 pin HEI module make sure it is grounded correctly.

My MSnS_Extra021u settings http://www.reynoldsanddanielle.com/pictures/CarStuff/MSnS/MOBY/msns_extra021u_settings.zip For the same setup as listed above:

Here was my standard MSnS (not extra) settings http://www.reynoldsanddanielle.com/pictures/CarStuff/MSnS/MOBY/msns_settings.zip The configuration of the car was as follows: stock replacement fuel pump from autozone stock FPR stock turbo 14psi boost GM HEI module for ignition with zxt coil 60mm 240sx TB SAAB 9000 intercooler 3 inch mandrel exhaust JSK fuel rail DSM 450cc injectors stock intake manifold, ported for 60mm TB DSM BOV if that matters IAT sensor before TB in j-pipe using stock air regulator to do fast idle control with coolant running through it JSK TB spacer to allow stock air regulator hookup

I built my own on my first setup. On the second one that I have now I am going to try using a gender changer and mount the ECU and Relay board right next to each other on the inside firewall of the car. I verified that the gender changer has all 37 connections connected and all are straight through. You would need to do the same for any computer type cable you bought. Some gender changers and cables are crossover types or some signals are not even connected all the way through.

unfortuantely no, but I wanted to put up a little bit about the MS installs to help people doing z projects. The TPI setup is in a 37 chevy. The TBI supercharged 454 is for my one ton dually. I am still sticking with the L28ET in my 240z, but when it gets worn out who knows. I hate to spend so much money to rebuild it when I know what the same money could net me with a sbc.

Got the 2 new megasquirt computers built and tested today. Everything went great. Loaded MSnS_Extra021u code on both after testing them. We also hooked up the small cap TPI distributor to a scope and looked at the signal that will be used to trigger the ECU. Everything looks like we expected it so it should fire up next weekend. Installed O2 bungs in both pipes so I can use my wideband meter to tune it in and check for differences between the sides of the engine. I also ordered all of my engine components for the TBI supercharged 454. Should be running it on megasquirt in the next month or two.

That is what I was thinking, but this summit guy insisted they would be fine for supercharged setup. So much for listening to him. I thought maybe he knew something I didn't.

Yeah, that chamfer around the outside above the top ring is what I am curious about. I believe I will stick with the blower piston like you say.

What happens in a boosted application if the first piston is used? What will the chamfers on the edge cause to happen? The second piston is the standard TRW "blower" piston with the D shaped cup. The first is just a regular forged TRW piston, but both yield the same compression ratio for all practical purposes. The guy at summit is telling me I can use the L2377F, but I am a little worried about it. I know the L2453F is built for boosted engines. What are your thoughts on this? I am just curious before I put in the order. I think I am going to stick with the standard blower piston unless you guys tell me the chamfer set up will not cause any issues with the top ring.

You should ask this question in the L6 forum and see how other people are getting by with 60 pound or bigger injectors. I am running the 42 pound and the idle is good. I am not sure where the cutoff point will be, but it won't really matter what computer runs them, once they are too big it is a mechanical on/off problem.

I am hoping that the same settings will work in the warmer temps. We'll see.

If you ever looked into buying a megasquirt AVR board you find that the guy who makes them is in Yugoslavia or something like that. He demands cash only for the boards, put the cash between magazine pages in an envelope. Seems to work well. So tell them to send you cash (US dollars), yeah like they would take that kind of risk.

Changed my priming pulse to happen after 2 seconds, turn key let pump run, prime happens, then crank. Set ASE to 50 and cycles to 45 seconds. Block temp 40 degrees F, air temp 38 degrees F, started and stayed running perfect. Now I am waiting for colder morning temps. I have a log book and I want to log off temps in 5 degree increments from 0 to 40 F. At this point I will just keep increasing ASE by 5 until it starts and stays running down to 0 F.

Maybe if enough of you guys stop buying the T5, the price will go down by the time I break mine I haven't had any problems but I am only putting down about 220hp. I drive it as hard as i can so I can weed out the weak components.

Another thing I found out, the priming pulse normally gets fired on power up of the MS unit. But if you setup is like mine it takes a second or two of the fuel pump running before pressure is built up in the rail(after setting over night). The extra code allows you to have the priming pulse occur after the fuel pumps runs so you really get the fuel in the engine before cranking. I had noticed a couple times I was not getting the priming pulse.

You probably already know this, but you don't have to use the flyback board, you can use a dropping resistor pack from a 280z or 280zx (whichever models had them).

This is for the supercharged 454 I am building for my truck, but should apply to a z car setup also I am using a B&M 250 supercharger (same as holley 250 now). I have a four barrel TB with 4 injector ports that have the injector spraying just above the butterfly. I could use four 80lb/hr injectors, one in each barrel, but the problem is that at idle the secondary butterflies will just barely be cracked. I am worried about fuel getting through properly. The TB has progressive linkage so at an idle the primary butterflies will be cracked more. I would like to run two 160lb/hr injectors in the primary barrels only. I think at idle this will allow the fuel past the butterflies better. The only concern with the 2 injector setup is whether or not I will get good fuel mixture distribution to all cylinders vs 4 injectors. It seems to me since the 4 barrels are so close and any mixture just hits the supercharger rotors and then dumps into one larger plenum that it wouldn't matter much. I would like to try the 2 injector method, what do you guys think. Any issues I am overlooking. I plan to use a solenoid like a diesel truck for cold start the just holds the throttle open a little more. That will also help the fuel to get through the butterflies at first. A lot of this depends on how much the butterflies will be cracked to idle the 454. Maybe it will be a none issue. I am also hoping that the high pressure injector spraying up top does not cause fuel to blow out the top of the TB all the time. Hopefully enough air velocity is going by to keep the spray down and in the TB bores. I'll find out soon.

About how much did it cost to have the inlet/outlet cut and re-welded? I have an NPR and I need to do that.