mobythevan

Excellent. BTW, the increase in photo album size is awesome.

It will rev higher now, just break the rest of the pistons to match.

On a stock turbo engine that block vent tube is connected into the intake manifold through a check valve. A tube from in front of the turbo goes up to the valve cover. Then when the intake is under vacuum, fresh air is moved through the block to evacuate crankcase vapors. I just vented both the block and valve cover to atmoshpere using those little air filters. There are arguments for keeping the circulating stock type set up, but I sacrifice some function for simplicity.

It looks like we have more space for pics now so I put up some that I didn't have room for in the old days or pics that got pushed out by MSnS stuff. A couple may be interesting to turbo swap people. Olds electric fan, ugly engine bay. I'm still bad about speed only and looks later. Custom built throttle linkage from a piece of steel bar I had laying around, it acutally was a stake to hold the swing set down. Air filter in the bad location, behind the radiator. But it fits nice and air gets in the turbo with no restriction. 60mm throttle body installed with JSK spacer. 280zx turbo hood vents installed in the 240z hood Madrel bent exhaust, 2.5 inches down to coupler then 3" rest of the way. Easy to upgrade in the future from turbine down to coupler. S&W roll bar installed, and yes there is plenty of room for me with the seat installed. I have my intercooler installed but can't find any pics of that???

Just wondering because I was thinking about putting up the files for my megasquirt settings for download.

if you keep the current tranny in the 240z then you can bolt in the turbo engine and it bolts right up(motor mounts, bellhousing). Use the clutch and flywheel from the 240z engine. The only time you get into problems with a mount not lining up it is with the borg warner 5 speed transmission from the turbo cars. I did this, my 73 240z had the 4 speed manual, R180 rear end, 240 engine (all stock components) and I put in the turbo engine only and re-used the 4 speed tranny, 240 clutch/flywheel and R180 stock rear end. Direct bolt in swap. Then gradually I swapped in an R200 rear end, borg warner 5 spd tranny and trubo flywheel/clutch. Stock 240z rear end should hold up for a bit with the stock turbo engine, unless its on its last leg right now (who knows without inspecting it). Mine did.

What can I say, I have always wanted a street rod first and foremost. I never thought I could build one so I went with the datsun as an easy way to a fast car and i always liked the body style. With all the accomplishments I have made on the 240z and all the things I have learned in the last several years I think I can build the street rod now. If any of you have been following my projects, you will know the next thing in line is building the twin turbo 350 with vortec heads. That is underway and is slated to go into my 81 camaro for testing. But I don't really like the 81 camaro it is just an engine tester. The ultimate goal was then to move the turbo V8 into a street rod. Possible moving the caramo front subframe into the rod as well. So anyway I have been on the lookout for an old car that fits my liking. I found the 34 pontiac 4 door sedan and I love the look. I have no plans to sell the 240z any time soon. I still have things I want to try with it. I'll always hang around on this forum because no matter what project I am doing, this site has the best atmosphere. The car is still in original un-molested state with a straight eight engine and origianl drivetrain. Maybe put the straight eight in the 240z I haven't taken pics of the car yet, but here is a link to someone elses 34 pontiac. http://carnut.com/cgi-bin/image.pl?/show/99/hay/hay025.jpg

The dish is shaped like the combustion chamber (d shape) so the part of the piston that goes up against the head for quench is still flat. Good question though. I could go 327 with 3.25 stroke, 5.85 rods and trw 21cc dish piston or srp 24cc dish piston, puts the piston .010 out of the hole at 9.025 deck height. I'll just stick with 8.7:1 350 and build it, either way it will make more power than I can handle for now.

A) The frame rail and floor pan rust is typical. It is a pain to have to work on rust repairs. You should be able to patch some new sheet metal in if you have a welder. H)Typically when you spin one tire and the other side goes in the opposite direction it is just a plain old open diff you've got. Typically a clutch type limited slip will have both tires spin in the same direction. But the only way to know for sure is pull the diff cover and look inside.

I'll stick around for about 15 minutes on tech shat and see if anyone shows up, I must be bored

Thanks, I'll check on that, I did realize that I could run the 21cc trw piston in a 327 with 5.85" rods from eagle and get me down to a low compression, but the 327 crank is more expensive and the 5.85" rods are more expensive. More expensive than custom pistons, I am not sure yet. Another interesting option anyway if I decide I need that low of compression.

Dr_hunt Well, you certainly stated the obvious, but didn't answer my question. Is there a bigger dish piston than 21-22cc for 350? If not I will run 8.8:1 compression for now. I don't remember asking for a recipe, maybe for brownies?

Well, I am just going to use the 21cc dish and run 8.78:1 compression and see how that limits my boost. The quench should be pretty good and I can clean up the chambers to prevent hot spots. I am also a little over 6000 feet altitude which gives me a little bit of an advantage. It will be interesting to see what happens and I can always order custom pistons later or change heads if this proves to be too high of compression for my boosting desires.

With all of my specs I get 8.78:1 SCR from the calculator. I get 6.5:1 DCR with the calculator. I have never seen any speculation on how much boost can be rum on pump gas versus DCR. What could 6.5:1 DCR support assuming an efficient intercooler and 91 octane? Just a guess would be interesting. My pressure will be above atmoshperic

Vortec L31 heads. I want 8:1 compression with quench distance of .040". I am already locked down to this head. One option would be to buy trw forged pistons with 21cc dish and make the dish bigger, but I don't know without talking to someone knowledgeable what that would cost and how much bigger the dish can be made without weakening the piston.

I have done a fair amount of searching for dished pistons for my 350 and 21-22cc is the biggest dish available off the shelf. Has anyone seen pistons with 28-32cc dish for 350 with 5.7 rods? If not, I guess its time to go custom. I would like to stay with a d-cup type dish and not go down in the bore to lower compression.

Ok, I have an intake manifold that is not TPI or LT1 but I did borrow a TPI fuel rail from a friend and the spacing of the injectors on a single rail is correct for my manifold. The angle of the rails on the assembly is wrong but I can cut the pipes and fix that. So, this raised the question is the spacing of injectors on a single rail the same between TPI and LT1? Just on one rail, left or right. Also, what inside diameters do TPI and LT1 rails have, I couldn't disassemble the rail I borrowed. From what I have read, LT1 rails will flow more fuel, but I haven't seen any dimensions.

And purple stands out like, "Oh, here's what you did gay"

There is an article in popular hot rodding about it this month. I'll put my turbos in the typical spot, right next to the head.

That is nice to hear.

Mine got dirty inside once and wouldn't work. Got some carbon flakes or something on the ball and didn't seal.

Your pictures look great, man that is a lot of work. What kind of heads and compression ratio are you running on there? Calhan is about 20 mile east of Colorado Springs on HWY 24.

I have got to try my hand at building a twin turbo small block. I have been working on it for a while, mainly narrowing down what components to go with. This is staying as budget as you can for starters. I bought an 81 camaro a few months ago for $250 to put it in. I have a powerglide laying around already, so we will build that up and see what happens. This is all a learning experience and I don't claim to be a turbo guru, but my base theory is double everything I am doing to the L28et because the sbc 350 is double the displacement. I am using two 60mm ford mustang throttle bodies and building my own 90 degree adapter to the intake manifold(ends up being a 1050cfm throttle body). I already have the intake and the throttle bodies. The intake is a multi port injection unit for vortec heads. I am going with straight stock vortec heads. Will be running 22cc dish pistons and .015 head gasket and decking the block to a true .025 piston to deck clearance. Going with Corkey Bell on this one and keeping quench at .040(he says the right quench is sacred and is more important than lowering SCR, everyone has their opinion). This will give 8.5:1 SCR. Going with David Vizards guidelines on turbo camshafts, the crower turbomaster1 or turbomaster2 looks to be the best off the shelf cam for these heads. I want to make torque, I am not as interested in having a 6500rpm engine. (the powerglide is just a starting point because we have it) turbomaster1 278int,260exh 212int,200exh @.050 .432"int .401"exh turbomaster2 290int,272exh 226int,208exh @.050 .465"int .420"exh The exhaust headers are being built from weld els. The turbos will most likely be t3/t04e .57trim .60a/r compressor .63a/r turbine stage 3. Like many people are using on the L28et. Will be using MegaSuirtII for fuel and ignition control. I'll get some pics up in the next couple months. I already have the wideband so that will make tuning nice. I am really anxious to get this one together and for the first time ever I actually have a sizeable monthly allowance(from my wife) to spend. I am hoping to get it driveable for 5K and have it done by springtime next year. I am curious to see what the limits of stock components are as we start to crank up boost. The plan is to get the engine running and test some things out over the next year in the camaro and then pull the engine and stick it in something more derserving of a TT350, the 240z maybe???

I could not get a taurus fan to fit with the L series engine. Even trimming the shroud down it would not clear the water pump pulley. I think I have a 280 radiator in a 240 car so maybe it will work for you if the radiators are different.

That is pretty much what I saw. I pull air from behind the radiator and when the thermostat opens I get 135 degrees F with no intercooler and no boost, just hot air from engine compartment. The IC fixed that. It is a lot of fun to play with the datalogging and see what is happening with all the sensors. I want an electronic fuel presser sensor that logs to my MSnS or to the Tech edge unit.