mobythevan

I did that one in a 66 impala SS that I owned. Had an old quicksilver ratchet shifter without lockout, thought I was in 1st gear but was really in drive, 2 shifts later I went neutral then reverse. That wasn't bad enough it killed the car, I just pushed the pedal to the floor and started it up again to find I was in reverse still. That was a long time ago when I wasn't as smart. I also had the engine mount bust in that impala and just hitting the trottle slightly would cause the eninge to rock over an take the throttle linkage with it pulling the pedal to the floor and giving a scary ride while your trying to figure out if ghosts really exist and decided to take you for a ride. Funny stuff after the fact anyway.......

Kind of like running chrome moly rings versus iron rings, trade offs come with everything. So when it wears out, buy another clutch kit with disc and pp and go to the junkyard and get another $20 240mm pathfinder flywheel. Now if you spend big bucks on a lightened flywheel and it gets ate up, that could cause some distress. Let us know how your new clutch setup works out when you get back up and running.

My ACT 6 puck is unsprung, I wasn't aware that ACT even made a sprung 6 puck disc for this application, but maybe they do. Unsprung doesn't bother me I like the way it performs

My ugly z with no airdam. 280zx turbo hood vents.

To lighten things up and to show that if I can install MegaSquirt then anybody with a little car knowledge can also get it working. 1. Remember to unhook the battery when messing with the wiring. This would have been funny to see, I decided I was going to remount my megasquirt relay box and forgot to unhook the battery. One of the bolts I had holding it through the bottom of the case popped up and hit the 12volt supply ring, it didn't hit solid though, kind of on,off,on. Sparks flying all over, me in a panic trying to realize what the issue is and realizing I can't shut off power. Luckily I grabbed it before it hit solid and melted the supply wire. 2. Double check the schematics. I misread some of my relay hacking by not looking closely at the schematics and wired my electric fan relay wrong. The good things is that I tested the 12 volt supply by hand and when I touched the wire to the battery terminal I had 12volts grounded through a small 20awg wire to the car. It immediately turned into a fusible link and no other damage was done. oops, oh yeah it goes on that pin of the relay. 3. Remember to reconnect fuel lines. Pulled my fuel rail off to test a couple injectors and in the excitement forgot to reconnect it to the FPR. Hopped in and tried starting, hey, why is it only firing a couple times? What is that sound like gas running all over? Oh sh....... 4. The GM HEI module and the turbo coil can throw some spark, watch out. Yeah, thought I could pull plug wires with the engine running. Worked good until I realized the spark can jump like 4 inches now and shock the crap out of me. 5. Don't waste weeks of engine not starting right, just install the fast idle valve up front. For only taking about 10 minutes to install I just would not do this. Kept messing with a hard to start engine, uhhh. 6. Believe what they say about the ACT clutch, it engages fast. When my wife asked what the buring off in the garage was about I just said "ehh, just having some fun" With these kind of adventures it is a wonder anything works, but hey, the car is running better than it ever has. One major problem now is my 185 tires. Going to be hard to get some 1/4 mile times with narrow tires like this. On to the next thing.....

I just put in my ACT 6 puck clutch with T-5 and IMO it isn't as bad as people made out. Of course it is all opinion so you'll have to try it for yourself. I don't know how strong the regular tranny is so someone else can answer that. I didn't think the clutch is hard to push in and it only shutters a small amount taking off in 1st gear. Well worth the trade off for me not to have a slipping clutch.

Thanks, I'll check that out. Now that I am using the wideband to help with tuning the car is running really good. I got the accel enrichements re-set to work with the new injectors, they are much smaller now of course. Engine revs really nice. Next thing is to install my intercooler and go to 12psi boost. That is where I plan to stay for the summer and just have some fun with the car.

nobody to drive the car while I read all the sensor output and tune! The car is running really good now, got the DSM injectors working, got wideband installed. Got most of the VE map roughed in. Able to boost in first gear and scond gear to 10psi now. The map is off a little in those two gears. Going down to 11:1 AFR but things are going good now. Better rich under boost to start with. I need a driver so I can watch AFR, and tuning screen and get the map closer. I guess I'll have to learn how to use the datalogging functions I have, but that is no fun. MS log visual viewer will show wideband AFR, and all of the MS readings, rpm, MAP, IAT, etc. Maybe I can get my brother up here to help, then I could get this tuned good in a couple hours. Maybe even get some Gtech 0-60 times, I think I'm going to have major traction issues now that the ACT clutch is in. heh heh, its sounding pretty mean.

If you use a computer that calculates fuel from MAP reading then it doesn't matter, vent to atmosphere.

I just realized from reading in the MS group archives that increasing the number of squirts will decrease the amount of fuel delivered because of having to suffer the open/close time of the injector during each squirt. So it looks like I am just leaning out the idle mixture by upping the number of squirts and that is why it is idling better. Well, I will put the wideband on tonight and see what else I can learn.

That is what I thought, but wanted to make sure. Either scale the required fuel value or the table.

BTW, if everything was perfect then in theory wouldn't the VE table be the same no matter what injectors you swap in? Only the required fuel value would change. I just want to make sure I understand that part. I know that other things happen like the minimum pulse width of a big injector causes issues at idle on a small engine.

I was using 2 squirts alternating, but it seems much better at 3 squirts alternating. I'll check out your table. I think I am getting closer. Thanks

OK, I played with it some more tonight and this is what I found. If I up my number of injections per cycle it idles much smoother, but this is backwards to the manual. Because this is taking me farther away from ideal settings for idle pulse width and required fuel settings. Seems to run much smoother all the way around. From the manual's stanpoint I should be set at 1 injection per cycle, this gives me the best required fuel and best idle pulse width for the injector size. The engine runs the worst at that setting. Runs much better at 2 injections per cycle and even better at 3. So I'll stay at 3 until something else doesn't look right. I checked for air leaks and I don't have any. Let idle for 20minutes and checked plugs, they all look the same now, all way too rich, wet. Since they all look the same and the engine sounds good now I am going to start in with the wideband tuning and if I can't get the mixture leaned out at idle I'll go back to less injections per cycle. Atleast it is running smooth again like it did with the stock injectors, although I can't see how with the plugs being wet at idle? I never said I knew what I was doing, but I'm learning. The more injections per cycle the tougher it should be to get idle working with a big injector??

They are used injectors and they are low impedance. I think you are right, I need to send them in to be tested and cleaned. Take one more variable out of the equation. I tried the carb cleaner trick already but I'll try again because I had a couple other issues crop up, like fouled spark plugs.

I am only running the car in the garage right now so I am only seeing idle to 2500rpm under no load. I have been having problems with my DSM injector install. I think I may be getting an air leak between the injector and the intake manifold. A couple things that came up, how long do I need to run the engine at say 1800rpm no load before I can recheck my spark plugs? I am showing two cylinders running lean so I am trying various experiments to fix this. The second thing is that my volumetric efficiency numbers for this area in my table seem too low. It seems like in order to not run rich on the other four cylinders I need to be around 30% when I think it should be more like 45% or 50%. My engine has unknown miles on it so could that be part of it? I changed my required fuel values for the bigger injectors, but something else seems to be throwing me off. My vacuum is good, would the vacuum always look good if I had air leaks at the injector to intake manifold? I am in the midset that I can only have two possible problems, either bad/dirty injectors or the air leak at the injector.

Got the ACT clutch installed and it is working as advertised. I am holding off on the IC install until I do a little tuning and testing first. Wideband is all set up and the bung is in place, but I haven't used it yet because I am still having problems with my DSM injectors. I have 10 DSM injectors, so you would think I could make one set of six that work. This weekend I messed with it for two days, first realizing I had fouled a couple plugs. Then I get everything working better, runs decent. Check the plugs and 4 of them look the same, running too rich. The other two look lean, showing the white insulator. Tonight I will try changing those two and see if I can get all six plugs to look the same. I am not going further until they all look the same. I am almost to the point where I just send them in to RC engineering and get them tested and matched. The setup ran perfect with the stock injectors, so I know all of the problems are just with the DSM injectors. The good news is that this is the last step before te car is driving again.

That works if the stock dizzy is not being used. If the dizzy is used then you have more troubles trying to get back across, I can with electric fan and 2.25" piping, but not with stock fan and shroud.

Tony, since you mention the CHT readings are off and I know you have been using different megatune codes, did you keep track that the correct .inc files are in each version of megatune. You had to make new .inc files from easytherm to recalibrate for the stock CHT sensor and if these didn't get moved into all megatune folders by accident that would cause different readings. Only thing I could come up with.

telling him to fly was pretty funny.

I got my ACT 6 puck clutch in and had my truck 240mm flywheel resurfaced. Guess what, the truck flywheel works just fine with the 240mm clutch and pressure plate, it just does not use the extra three center bolts in the pressure plate and does not have the ring around the edge of the friction area. The junkyard was right when they said it was a service replacement. These flywheels come from trucks and pathfinders and are abundant around here, so anyone else that can't find a car 240mm flywheel may want to check into this route. I was 99.9% sure it would work since BayareaZT is using this, but you never know if someone has a different part. I haven't driven the car yet, but everything checks out manually so I have no worries. Clutch engages and disengages good.

If you put something like Megasuirt in for the EFI you would learn all about EFI and be able to keep the same ECU/wiring harness/sensors when you swap the turbo engine in. Plus be able to program the ECU for either setup and any upgrades. Just another option.

you would have to sell a box of kleenex with each book because at times it has been a sad story.

I didn't notice anything different moving the HEI module as far as noise goes. My CHT sensor reads more like 190 when warmed up. I think my thermostat is 195 so that seems reasonable.

At first I had it mounted to an aluminum heat sink which worked great. Then to clean things up I mounted it to metal and this does not sink enough heat, so I need to put it back. Nothing wrong with its operation, it just needs to be mounted to a heat sink to stay cool.