mobythevan

Only takes one MS ECU to do fuel and spark. Sleeper and others know the Z31, so you'll have to get with them. It probably takes more time up front to get the MS installed, but you have more control with it when it is in. Sometimes having more knobs to turn only leads to confusion.

Don't people with sumps on the bottom of the tank feed from the bottom and return to the bottom all the time? Just asking another variation of Bastaad's questions, does it matter if the return line is in the top, bottom or middle of the tank?

Tried the gasket remover, its awesome Spray on, wait ten minutes, gasket turns to goo and is easily removed without scratching the surfaces. Only thing I guess is to make sure all plastic parts are removed, probably turns them to goo also. Thanks Tim

yes, I swapped into a 240z. My engine was a junkyard and didn't have anything else with it. Otherwise I would have used the stock resistor pack. It only cost me $5 to build my own pack.

I used 6ohm 25watt resistors, because that was what I had available and was close enough from the calculations. Sounds like you should be running shortly.

http://members.clnk.com/bowers/F350Run.wmv

your thinking correctly, the injectors are powered all the time from the power block(4 pin 12v terminal) and the FETs do the grounding to fire the injectors. I placed my resistors in the line between the power and the injector. They give you two terminal connections for each injector power to supply more current. One way you can do it is to run both inj1 wires connected to three resistors, remember these just supply 12v to the injectors and doubling up the wire allows more current flow. Then each resistor wires to each injector after that. Let me know if this makes sense to you. inj1(12v)------|-----|-----| inj1(12v)------|-----|-----| .....................|......|......| ....................R1....R2....R3 .....................|......|......| .....................|......|......| ..................inj1...inj2...inj3 Same setup from inj2(12v) to R4,R5,R6 and inj4,inj5,inj6 then the injector lines return to the other terminal connections (FETs) sorry for the crappy text schematic, but the program throws out the spaces so I had to add . to keep alignment.

http://www.carcraft.com/techarticles/116_0403_mega/ I have read this one, I think it is a good article for anyone to read that is looking at MegaSquirt. I'll add this link to the install guide. You guys can check it out and see what you think. Just keep in mind that they installed on a chevy engine which required them to put together the entire EFI system, so their cost was higher than installing on a 280zx turbo engine that is already EFI. Always good to read other peoples opinions before you jump in.

I don't have a pic of my resistors, but I put three on top of the plate and three on the bottom, staggered so they don't take up much room.

oops, I never noticed gasket remover at the parts store before(never even thought to look for it). I'll give that a shot.

Everytime I rebuild a holley carb the gaskets are stuck on really bad. Is there an easier way to get them off. The job is too delicate to just scrape them. I tried putting some penetrating oil on the gasket material to soften it up, but it is like someone super glued these things on. Maybe some other product would work.

I built my own resistor pack(6 big resistors mounted on aluminum) and I placed it in line with the injectors. It is mounted on the fender. I also have the GM module on the fender near the stock coil.

MS unit uses the O2 sensor to correct fuel (run in closed loop mode) during cruising.

You and me both, I got one for 48 in a 35 this morning. Next month my last ticket would have been at three years so my insurance would have gone down. Life has a funny sense of humor. Oh well, someone has to support the donut fund, unlike the infinitely lucky Sleeperz who showed up at court and the cop was a no show. If we could all be so lucky

The webbing on the tranny case hits the isolator mount so i grooved out the isolator to clear, but some people just grind off the tranny case where it hits.

Just wanted to get this into the archives in case someone ever uses this transmission. I bought the A833 4spd manual transmission for my V8 z car because it is light and seems to handle a lot of torque (how much????). It is actually a new process mopar transmission that was used in mopar muscle cars from the 60's up and was used behind big block mopar engines. In the late 70's the gears were changed to give an overdrive gear and the case was made out of aluminum. The tranny is the mopar version of the muncie. The transmission was used in chevy trucks in the early 80's. It was almost exclusively used in the GMC and Chevy diesel trucks with 6.2l engine. It was used in some gas chevy trucks though. The gear ratios are 3.09 1.67 1.1 .73 The tranny weighs around 80lbs It uses a large truck aluminum bellhousing which allows the use of a 12 inch clutch. The bellhousing is unique, the bearing retainer hole is larger than a typical GM bellhousing and the tranny 4 bolt pattern is different. A 6.2l diesel flywheel will not work on gas chevy engine, so you may have to dig up a flywheel. When the OD gear was added, they swapped 3rd and 4th gear so the shift lever was mounted upside down on the tranny. Now 3rd gear is located in place of fourth and the OD gear is located in place of 3rd if that makes since. Have to watch how the linkage is assembled. The good stuff, the tranny has all of the same mounting dimensions as a TH350 tranny. Same overall length, same output shaft, same rear mount and mount location, same speedometer hookup. If you have a TH350 in your car you can bolt this into place and use a hydraulic TO bearing and your done. I compared it side by side to a TH350 and confirmed this. Stick Only in CA sells rebuild kits and other parts for the tranny. If you want a manual tranny that is light, tuff, and not exspensive, but has wide gearing and is somewhat hard to come by this is it. But who knows, someone may stumble onto one of these at the junkyard so here is the info that I know. Have Fun.

Sounds like it is going good Tony, I am curious to see what you think when everything is working.

In my case it is always opportunity. I was looking for a crew cab dually truck and the first one I came across was the F350 crew cab dually 1 ton with blown up engine that had been sitting since 96. So I got it cheap and it is in excellent shape, no rust whatsoever. With me it is always about saving money, so I already have the chevy engine and tranny. Makes for a very cheap and functional truck, who cares what engine is under the hood if it gets the job done. I have nothing against ford engines, I just don't have one sitting in front of me. Same story with my turbo 240z. I happened onto the car very cheap and the turbo engine very cheap otherwise I wouldn't have went that direction. Interesting how things happen.

heh heh, that is exaclty what I am working on right now. I am putting the old chevy engine in an F350. It is born out of necessity and lack of funds(and I'm sure ford guys would say lack of brains).

You use a pullup resistor to get your line(or pin,connection) to some voltage (5,12, etc). Suppose you want a pin to have 5volts. If you just add a wire to 5 volts there is nothing to limit the current and if the pin is say an input to a transistor that is switched to ground then you have a short to ground from 5 volts and you burn stuff up. So instead you add a resistor to the 5 volts and the resistor will limit the current according to ohms law. Current is voltage divided by resistance. If you put a 1k ohm resistor to 5 volts then if the pin is switch to ground by internal electronics it can only draw 5 milliamps max(the resistor current limits the path). A pulldown is similar except that you want a pin/wire connected to ground and you want the path to be current limited. To size the pullup or pulldown correctly you should know what the circuit is that you are adding the resistor to. But as a general rule you can use a 1k resistor for 5volts and a 2k resistor for 12volts. That limits the current to a few milliamps which is conservative. Sometimes the circuit may require more current to operate properly. I hope this doesn't confuse you too much, I take electronics for granted so I make a lot of assumptions when trying to explain things. Ask more questions and sooner or later I will explain it right.

My engine at one point was in your same configuration, TB vacuum hole plugged, no canister, EGR plugged, AAC connected, etc and mine started and idled fine, so I would agree, check out your air regulator.

That one cracked me up

I bet he already filed one thing into his brain, don't ride in another car with a driver you know nothing about(except that he is a car salesman ). I don't remember ever taking a test drive where I didn't drive the car all the way out and back.

Excalibur, but I'm not one of those renaissance festival weenies.

I just made my own out of 3/8 mild steel and a lot of time at the drill press and using a metal file.