mobythevan

Boy its always gets more complicated when you think of all the planned stages for the conversion. And to think I bought my 240z 2 years ago to do the V8 swap and now here I set with a second 240z that I did a turbo swap into in the mean time. Well anyway, you can put the R200 and CV jointed halfshafts in there and use your existing 240z driveshaft with no mods to it. And the caveat... As long as you watch which pinion flange is on the R200 you buy. Worse case you would end up swapping pinion flanges to use the 240 driveshaft. An R200 from a 280z will go right in. An R200 from a zx turbo car has a different flange bolt pattern. And if your lucky and find the R200 LSD from 87-89 300zx turbo it of course has a different flange all together. But the pinion flanges can be intechanged between any of those. Hope that helps and doesn't confuse you too much.

The driveline guy said the part number is: 1203-26S He said it is sold by the company Powertrain in CA. He wasn't sure who the manufacturer may be, and only knew of that source for the part. If anyone from CA is familiar with that company maybe they can shed some more light on where exactly they are located. I didn't press him for phone numbers of the company or anything, but I could if we can't turn up the rest of the info.

I didn't grind the tranny, I notched the mount itself to clear that webbing. I was too scared to hack the tranny. I couldn't remember reading about you guys doing that, I must have missed those posts. Thanks for the pics

I did the same thing as Jersey. My car is 73 just like his and I used the crossmember from the 83 turbo car. Cut the ears off the side of the insulator and welded new steel on. Then drilled holes 3/4inch towards the rear of the car. Works great, but it does interfer with the transmission case on the T-5. Because the mount then slides forward on the tranny 3/4 inch it hits the webbing on the tranny case. I had to cut a hunk out of the insulator metal so it would slide forward enough. I was just curious Jersey, if you cut the mount the same way or if you actually clearanced the tranny webbing to accomplish the same thing. I didn't want to mess with the tranny, just the insulator mount. Anyway it works great, I'm just waiting for a new rear seal for the T-5.

So the nissan T-5 page that talks about the swap into early z cars specifically says that you cannot modify a 240/260 driveshaft to work with the T-5. Uh, wrong. The slip yoke that the driveline shop ordered for me fits the nissan T-5 and fits the original 73 240 driveshaft u-joints. I did go ahead and have the driveshaft shortened 1/2 inch. But it looks like it might have fit just by putting the new yoke on the 240 driveshaft. Just looked a little too close to me, only leaving about 1/4 inch if not shortened. My shortened driveshaft now leaves closer to 1 inch slack. Anyway, I can get the part number of the yoke they used if anyone down the road decides to use the early driveshaft with replacable u-joints. My R200 was not from a turbo car so the early driveshaft flange fits my R200 pinion flange. So I guess I would be in trouble down the road if I tried to use an R200 from a turbo car since they have a different flange. I could always swap the pinion flange I have now, so no problem.

Oh boy, this little stuff just wears me down. I got the 5spd put in, but I only had the plate that goes between the block and bellhousing from the 4spd. After everything was in then I though about checking the gussets again. No hole in that metal plate for the gusset bolts, wish I would have checked that when it was easy to drill. Oh well, looks like no gussets for me until I upgrade to the 240mm clutch this winter.

In the several times I have driven my turbo car I haven't noticed anything at 4500rpm. It hits boost near 3K and pulls all the way to 6k before I shift. I had my share of other problems that caused it to hit a wall at boost(faulty fuel pressure ragulator), I also had coroded tps connector that caused other things. But now it seems to run good all the way through, I'm curious to see if you continue to have the "rich" issue at 4500 as you keep fixing things. Tim brings up a good point as I am not running a BOV yet.

Sounds good, I'll see where I end up going, but I may go to Pueblo Motorsports Park first. Its a little closer for me.

heh heh....... I haven't practiced my launches yet because I still had the 4spd and R180. But it looks like this weekend the BW T-5 and R200 will be in, so I'll have to work on that a bit before I head down to the track, since I have the luxury of backroads...

In my haste to put up the info I forgot to add that this was for the nissan borg waner T-5. The new yoke cost me $58.

Added This is for the nissan BW T-5 for turbo L28 conversion Pretty basic stuff, but I figure it never hurts to get it into the archive. I finally got my slip yoke ordered in and the driveline guy said this was the first one of this type he has seen in 20 years, I know that only means he doesn't know much, but I bet other people will run into shops like this so... 26 spline 1.115" spline diameter I believe is what he said(I measured 1.08") 1.375" seal diameter (for sure) The 1.375" seal diameter is what was causing problems, he had plenty of yokes with 1.5" seal diameter. Once he measured that then he was able to get the right yoke ordered in.

I hear that all the time, that is exactly what you do when you add a turbo to any engine. You are adding more torque in the mid rpm range. As has been said many times you have to look at both hp and torque curves to understand an engine.

I think I figured out the issue. I was looking for bolt holes all the way thru, not threaded holes.

I didn't realize that there was a special variation of this engine, looks interesting, assuming anybody could find one. 24 valve, DOHC, hemi heads... http://www.angelfire.com/ca2/34Performance/dohc.html

Seems like they started making the 3.4l in 91. The 60 degree block is suppose to give more room in the engine compartment for twin turbos. But is the engine itself very good for handling boost? Are the stock internals strong, is the stock head suited for boost? Just digging around.

Yeah, they have two bolts into the block and then one into the bellhousing. They didn't seem to line up with any holes on the BW 5spd I have.?????

Just an observation I thought I would throw up here in case someone is curious about this. During my turbo swap I had noticed that there are two gussets to help support the transmission bellhousing that attach to the bottom of the L6 block. Before I actually got to installing I asked if anyone was retaining these gussets. Then when I actually installed the engine it became apparent that there are no provisions on manual trannies to bolt to these gussets. I checked 4spd and BW 5spd. My turbo engine came from an automatic car so I can only assume at this point the gussets only worked with the auto tranny. This makes sense to me because auto trannies are typically heavier. So speak up if anyone atually used them on a manual tranny.

http://www.hampleman.com/turboz.htm

See post above, you don't have to tap anything you can by an adapter fitting to get you to something like AN. A store that builds hydraulic hoses can then build lines for you at a reasonable price. I had a bypass line built with 250psi hose that was high temperature stuff. I'll have new hoses built when i install my oil cooler.

I am not running an oil cooler yet on my 83 engine. I went to Parker Fittings and got adapters to screw into the oil filter housing to convert to a standard flange fitting so it would be easy to hook up any kind of oil cooler in the future. The thread size into the oil cooler where the original cooler lines connect is 18mm. I just got 18mm to flared standard fitting adapter. That way I got rid of the banjo fittings and all of the original junk. To hard to find replacement parts or fitting that work with that stuff.

Ok, a couple things. If the car really is running super rich it could be that start wire to the ECU. I even screwed that one up, had it hooked to 12v all the time and then it runs really rich. This signal should only be hooked to 12v during cranking, it puts a lot more fuel for starting the engine. Since you didn't do the install this may be interesting to figure out. But if you are pretty certain it is running rich, this would be a good one to check into. My car would hardly idle with this hooked up and would really only run if I stayed in the throttle to compensate for the rich condition. Next, on the AFM, mine is the same way. What I have done is removed the boot from the AFM to turbo and all associated vacuum lines and I am replacing that with my own 3 inch piping and relocating the AFM to mount just below the throttle body. I use a 3" to 2.5" reducer to couple back into the inlet of the turbo. Then also run 3" pipe from the AFM out through the radiator support to air filter. My tach on 73 240z worked ok with 83 engine, just connected the tach to the coil signal. It took me a couple months to get my car running right after the swap, but I started with a junk yard engine that was in who nows what kind of condition. At least you know your engine was running good before the swap, so you'll get there. Just keep after it.

I will use the cast stock downpipe flange like Jersey did. The only other flange will be where the new downpipe an 3 inch exhaust connect together. I would rather put a flange there so it will be easier in the future to remove the exhaust to upgrade things. If not I will just weld it all together, it just makes it harder to remove the entire pipe when the downpipe section is also welded on, since I don't have a car lift and only jack stands, my room to work under the car is severely limited.

Yeah, I ran mine that way, but only for test drives. Maybe I put 120 miles on it in the country that way. One drive alone that I took was 60 miles. Several other test drives were only a couple miles each. The exhasut smell was bad when I would be coasting along. That is the main reason for me to get the exhaust finished, I am tired of breathing the fumes. That bushing is probably a little charred now, but I planned to replace all of the bushings after everything else is finalized. That price of $150 is just for all of the pieces, flanges, pipe, muffler, o2 bung, etc. I will weld it all up myself with my MIG.

I should mention again that I live out in BFE. I only have about 6 neighbors within 5 miles. I never drove mine to town that way, just passing along the info Just another redneck moment in the life of my 240z

I've been running my 240z turbo for the last three months with nothing but the stock downpipe. My wife says its not that loud. She says that she thinks many cars with glasspacks are louder, just her opinion. It is definitely not loud when you are off the turbo and just cruising. When you hit the turbo, now that is a different story, but still I say it not bad. But remember I ran my 350 sbc with just open shorties to go to the muffler shop, now that is LOUD BTW, I have all of my exhasut and dowpipe parts in hand, but waiting to install my T-5 before building the exhaust. $150 for all parts to make the 2.5inch mandrel downpipe and 3 inch mandrel exhaust.