awd92gsx

I wouldn't think it's your box if you're getting spark, but...all things are possible... My MSD didn't work when I bought the car (and still doesn't). It constantly grounds the coil. JT, do you have AIM or MSN messenger? I have some questions about your turbo swap if you have a few moments. Thanks!

Lone, When are you moving here to AZ? I also have a custom billet fuel rail setup for the O-ring style injectors.

Hey guys, I'm buying an L28ET, but I guess the distributor from the '83 L28ET is missing...Is there any reason I can't run the distributor from my '77 280Z in it? Is there any kind of modding that needs to be done to the dist. to get it to work with the 280ZXT ECU? Thanks in advance, and...I'm still learning about Z's...so I apologize if this appears to be a "newbie" question...

...but...by the same token, by testing at the spark plug end of the wire first, you are, in effect, testing both the primary and secondary sides of the ignition system since the secondary ignition system won't work if the primary side has failed...however, if you are having a crossfire situation in the cap then you can still have a good, or at least semi-good, spark...it's just at the wrong time But, if I remember right, you said you replaced the cap and rotor, so the chances of that happening on both the new cap and rotor are pretty slim... Have you hooked up a noid light to it yet?

You can stick it in a vice and slightly crush it for better holding strength...

Thanks!! The Starion tranny is right about 29.5", while the 280Z trans is right at 28" (27.95"). That's OK, because that allows me more room to play with to get everything lined up. From what I could tell, the Starion tranny should fit just fine. Thanks guys!

Can somebody tell me (roughly) the length of a 280Z tranny? And...does anybody know if anybody's ever put a Starion tranny in a 1G Z?

The #1 rule to finding problems? Check the easy stuff first. Your problem doesn't *sound* like a fuel supply problem. Fuel pumps tend to either work, or not work (most of the time, but not always). Fuel pressure regulators will cause excessive fuel consumption, but I've never seen one cause a no start condition. It also doesn't sound like a plug wire issue. Plug wires don't usually cause a no start condition (unless you have a coil wire that may be breaking down). It also doesn't sound like a mechanical issue. It'd have to be one helluva intake leak to cause a no start. Do Z's have a "limp in" mode? In other words, does the Z ECU have premapped tables in the event that a sensor fails (or is disconnected?)

Are you sure something didn't come apart in your distributor causing it to run extremely retarded (no pun intended) or something?

Alfred, I just noticed you're also in Phoenix. I may know somebody locally that can do it for you for alot less, but still do a good job.

245/45r16's in the back...225/45r16's in the front...on custom wheels/coilovers/and no modifications to the fenders...It doesn't look like it in the pic, but the tires are actually tucked underneath... 18's on a 280Z: http://www.eng.fsu.edu/~jthagard/otherzs/walker/heatedpassion.html

I would think it'd be pretty easy...not 100% about the harness, since, like you, I'm really an Eclipse guy (Mits. tech actually)...

When I stopped by yesterday and talked to them about it, this is what they told me Paint exterior, remove side mouldings and fill in screw holes, paint door jams, paint underneath hood (I doubt that means everything), paint rear hatch jams, and prep for $1020.

the absolute lowest price I'm finding is $1700, although...I have a DSM friend that took her 98 GS-T to MAACO and had them color change the entire car. They did her jams, underneath her hood, and in the hatch area and "supposedly" upgraded the paint (4 year guarantee against flaking, peeling, cracking, fading, etc...)for a total price of about $1100. I'm "considering" doing this myself...I figure as long as the car looks presentable, they don't spraypaint the inside of the car, and I detrim it before I go down, then I should be "OK" until I can get a better paint job in the future. I've only got about $1300, maybe $1400 to spend on paint after buying my turbo Z engine, interior parts (changing interior to black), and the MSA front and rear bumper covers, and spoiler...I'm still tossing the whole thing in the air, though...I still want enough leftover to get my wheels powdercoated.

*Note* This pic was borrowed and modified. I like the idea of the pillar being matched, too...I'm also thinking about color matching the door handle, too...

Thanks for that very helpful info. I'm assuming the mechanical speedo will connect to the factory cable somehow?

Hey guys, I'm going to be ordering the MSA front and rear bumper covers (to eliminate the garguntuane bumpers), along with the F40 style wing... I want to get the entire car painted red, have my side mouldings removed, install the bumper covers and wing and then have my wheel's centers powdercoated black...kinda like in this pic I just kinda threw together...ok, so I'm not an arteest, but you get the idea...so stop laughing =o)

Just make sure that the driveline angles don't dissapear altogether...which would be bad...very very bad...

Well...damn. Does Autometer make a mechanical speedo that works in the Z's? I've seen people with Autometer speedos...how do they get them to work? Sorry for the seemingly basic questions!!

Quick question...if I decided to go with an Autometer electric speedo...how do they connect to the tranny?

I don't know much about "Peak/Hold" or "Saturated" Injectors, but I can tell you about Low Impedance and High Impedance injectors. DSM's have low impedance injectors, but there is a resistor pack (it's on the firewall) inline to bump them up to high impedance. If you're looking for DSM injectors try going to http://www.mitsubishigraveyard.com and emailing Gary.

You might try checking on http://www.thepartstrader.com or on http://www.dsmtrader.com for used starion FMIC's

Len, Unfortunately, they're not much help. I've visited the site and they pretty much tell you if you can't find it, don't email them about it because they don't know. I'll get it figured out. I need to start with finding some 280Z EFI schematics and checking voltages and then cross referencing them with some other possible settings...

Oh, I definitely think it's a good FMIC. I have been running one on my highly modified DSM for quite some time now and plan on using it on my 280Z when I get my turbo engine and get it installed. It has a very low pressure drop compared to most FMIC's and still manages to maintain a 90-95% cooling efficiency.

Check out the FMIC from http://www.turbochargers.com (24" griffen top/bottom core). It runs about $500 and piping can be made for probably about $200 by a fabricator, leaving you short only about $700. (I had all of my piping fabbed by a friend for $100 for my DSM)