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Well, I just installed, updated, and ran Norton AntiVirus...no viruses found... If the virus was attached to an email, it would almost have to be a Hotmail issue. I don't use outlook express or any other PC based email software. With hotmail (a web based email server) you just type onto a site, just like this almost, and it goes directly from Hotmail's server to whatever email add'y you're sending from...with nothing actually being *sent* or uploaded from your computer... That's very strange...but, check out www.astalavista.com sometime. There are about 1000 articles on cracking into somebody's email acc't Lemme know if it happens again!!

Pete, That's very strange. I'll look into it, but...nobody else has mentioned it...so...I'm wondering if, like the above post, somebody somehow hacked into or used my email add'y... Thanks for bringing it up to my attention. Hotmail is usually pretty good about filtering viruses, but... Which virus is it? Did it say?

Try to at least get a gravity feed gun...might help you out some... And above all...don't stop the gun for even one second...run city baby, run city...

I personally like my Porsche Red... But, it's all a matter of preference...to me, black looks good, yellow looks good, and red looks good...

OK, there's two things that have to be done to get the 77 ECU to work with a turbo engine 1) The turbo distributor shaft is different than your non turbo distributor shaft. You'll have to swap that out. (No big deal, though, honestly) 2) SleeperZ is correct. The 77 ECU won't be able to control the turbo injectors, so, what you have to do is take the turbo AFM and install a few components from your non turbo's AFM. I have actually found one that already has had this modification done to it and it should be arriving either today or tomorrow. When you install the larger turbo AFM, you are basically recalibrating the system for use with turbo injectors. The only advantage the turbo ECU has over the non turbo is that the turbo ECU can control timing, the non turbo ECU won't. However, to me, it's not that big of a deal, since I'll eventually be running a MSD with a boost timing retard anyway...and I won't have to hassle with the harness and ECU... Now, I've got the harness and ECU sitting here, so if it doesn't work I'm not that concerned because I can always throw it in, but that would mean I have to go buy more books and spend more time working on a car...

Not 100% sure of the specs...but...here's what I know... 2.4L, 9:1 Ross's, GT35R turbo, 272/272 cams (I believe), ported/polished head, Crower rods, and your usual assortment of DSM go fast goodies...

I'm going to estimate a little less than 300 lbs.

Ok, I was just *told* about 200lbs...I'll keep asking around, though...could be right...the engine is pretty light...I don't have to many problems slinging them around...

One of the 4G64/4G63's just dynoed... 551hp 470tq running 24psi and no more than 7k rpm. There's a few more in the works...

Hey guys, check it out...a 4G64/4G63 hybrid just dynoed... 551hp 470tq @ 24psi.

Bologne will eat a perfect circle through the paint. Just some "food" for thought. so does Brake fluid...

This is my old DSM. Complete with $300 Earl Scheibs paint job. If I didn't do a color change on my Z I would have returned to them, but, the biggest difference between MAACO, Earl Scheib, and real body shops is in the prep work (and paint, but more on that later) Painting is about 90% prep, and 10% spray. Sanding down, welding in holes and filling gaps, smoothing surfaces...these things take alot of time. Cheap paint places do a poor job at best when it comes to masking the car. They've got about 20 other cars to get to so they're not going to take the time to pull your weatherstripping, properly bag your wheels, remove emblems, remove marker lights, etc...they're gonna just tape 'em off...in a hurry...which means they're probably going to leave gaps in the tape and masking paper...I can guarantee it. Now, if you're not too concerned with the little things like that, then it's OK. If you're sticking with the same color you'll probably never even notice a little overspray here or there (you'll probably have to scrape your mirrors, though). MAACO uses cheaper paints, so don't expect a full guarantee on them. Earl Scheib offered me a 6 year gurantee against flaking, peeling, fading, etc...still cheap paints, though. About the cheapest real paint you can get is OMNI. That's what my Z is painted with. If you're respraying the entire car, it works great, from what I'm told...it's just they don't have alot of color options to blend into other brands. Finally, MAACO doesn't like to use clear coat. Also, another thing, they don't color sand or polish the final coat. This leaves it a little more dull and unfinished than a real body shop. You can have it color sanded and polished afterwards IF you have an extra coat of clear applied. Problem is, do you really know what you're getting for that $150 extra clearcoat option? Do they really apply it in all cases...hmm..I dunno....if they don't and you colorsand the paint it could rub through, and MAACO won't take responsibility. For a temporary paint job, hell yeah, go for it. If your paint is smooth and they get dirt in the new paint, you'll have to take it back down to metal to get it repainted in the future. Whatever they leave in your current paint will show through your next paint job...just something else to keep in mind. Whatever you do, avoid spray cans at ALL costs. Unless you're painting your old patio furniture...or valve covers...or something like that.

Now, I could be wrong on this...but... Stock 90-92 DSM rods can handle over 500hp. Looking at the 83 ZXT rods, they actually look stronger than DSM big rods....couple that with the fact that there are two more rods handling the power...I don't personally see there being a need to upgrade the rods to hit 500hp... Am I wrong on this?

You're wrong about one thing...It COULD be the AFM...why? I'll tell you. Even though you can rev your engine up to 5K+ at an idle doesn't mean that your AFM flapper door is opening all the way. In order to get the door to open all the way the engine has to have a certain amount of load on it (much like the engine has to be loaded to spool the turbo - ever notice you can spool a big turbo quicker in 3rd gear than in 1st gear? That's why you check your boost in 3rd gear, and not in 1st gear...) I'd check that. Also, ohm check your TPS. It could be perfectly dry but still be bad. Let us know what you find with those two items, then we can go further into it.

http://www.turbomagazine.com/archives/features/0801_features02.shtml

Hey guys, I need some help. I'm having problems finding decently priced pistons to run in my 83 ZXT engine. It currently has JE 9:1's, but after talking with a JE distributor they supposedly have to custom make them, which means 4-6 weeks of waiting and anywhere from $100-150 each... Does anybody have any suggestions? I'd prefer to get at least a little better than stock...how are NISMO pistons and where's the best place to get them? But, if I have to run stock pistons, then that's what I have to do. Lower compression just means I get to turn the boost up more On that note, I see that Courtesy Nissan has flat top pistons for $57. What would the comp. ratio be with a P90A head and a 2mm HKS HG? Thanks for any help in advance,

Travis, I'll probably catch alot of flak for this, but, I've been talking to a Z owner that has done multiple 280ZXT swaps into 280Z's... He, and others, claim that you don't actually need to swap in the harness and ECU, but that you can run a modified turbo AFM and swap out the distributor shafts and you can use the 77 harness and ECU (that means no swapping). He runs 11.7's with the stock 77 ECU... I'm going to try it this way...

If you park far away, people will park next to you just to be diznicks. So...umm...has anybody else here thought about parking their car in a parking lot and sitting on top of the store with a sniper rifle?

Yep. You still have my paypal add'y right?

Perry, Do you think you could get a 95-99 Eclipse Karmen Vortex MAF to work?

RacerX, The ultimate suspension for me and my Z is already on there. I have Tokico struts, coilovers, adjustable camber plates, complete polyurethane bushing kit, and custom offset 16" wheels with 245/45r16 and 225/45r16 tires. It handles any kind of punishment I throw at it and keeps begging for more!! The car was setup for roadracing by it's previous owner and living in a city with nothing but straight roads really sucks. One of these days I'm going to take the car up in the canyons...or at least on a solo course...

...now that's the type of Info that HybridZ is known for...man I love this site!!

Well...the S2K isn't exactly the most torquey engine on the planet...but...if you want revs, then it certainly has them with a 9K rpm... I think If I was going to run a NA Honda engine, though, I'd run an LS/Vtec...or even better yet...a CRV/Vtec...H22A is nice...for a Honda engine...that's pretty much the engine of choice for most H guys.

btw...did you get my saxophone email? ps...got that article today...thanks!!! droool...

Ernie, I hope this helps... 1 kilowatts = 1.340483 horsepower, so 220KW would be 294.9hp For any conversion you can think of, check out... http://www.onlineconversion.com