awd92gsx

Miata guys do it, too... It shouldn't be a problem, but I would run a little higher compression and a little smaller turbo...

It's actually not the amount of boost that is a problem with the 4G64 crank. It's the RPM limit. But...I wouldn't get too caught up in that... There have been a few guys running a 4G63 (2.0L)stroked with a 4G64 crank (2.4), which brings them to just about 2.3L. I took it a little further and came up with how to run the 2.0L cylinder head on the 2.4L bottom end (the only real differences between the two bottom ends are the stroke, bore, and the deck height, which I've overcome with using the right parts from the right years of different models). Crower makes a forged stroker crank for the 4G63, but the kit runs close to $7k if I remember right, and, it hasn't shown itself to be any stronger than a 4G64 crank. I really couldn't suggest stroking the 4G64 any more than it already is, as the rod angles are pretty high as they are, but still within safe limits. One thing about the 4G64 block, it does NOT have oil squirters, which, to me is a good thing. The oil squirters in later 4G63 (7 bolt) blocks is believed to be one of the culprits to excessive amounts of crankwalk. The 4G64 DOHC was made in the 1994 Galant GS. The cylinder head is actually the same exact cylinder head used on the 2G turbos (same part number and everything). If you can find this engine complete, you have everything you need. All you have to do is drop in the custom pistons (the stock pistons are 10:1 comp., the customs are 9:1 - more turbo friendly), use the 2G turbo oil pan, and turbo related components (turbo, exh. manifold, etc...) You could then run either the stock DSM ECU or run a standalone. I've had to reinstall everything on my computer, but, I built up two identical engines on Desktop Dyno 2K. Then, I did nothing other than change the bore and stroke to 4G64 specs. The hp and torque curves widened considerably and actually shifted about 1,000 RPM down, but did not lose any top end. The hybrid engine produced over 50 more ft lbs. of torque!! Once I get my CD back from a friend of mine, I'll reinstall it, build the engines again, and work with it some more...however, there is at least one engine in SC that is VERY close to completion (Epik Motorsports if anybody lives near Myrtle Beach)

I'm gathering the parts now...but... Unless you're going with a standalone, you're going to need the ECU, harness, AFM. If you're dropping it into a 260Z, I believe you'll also need a fuel pump and possibly even fuel tank, but I've heard differing opinions on this... I can't believe this popular of a swap hasn't warranted a VFAQ. So, as soon as I get it done, I'm going to do one up.

Great!!! Lemme know when you get all settled in.

http://www.geocities.com/piercedjd/4G63Conquest.html This is a friend of mine's Conquest. This site may be of some help...

Interestingly, while looking around, I found this website... http://intermega.globo.com/allmitsubishi/4g63t.htm It mentions using the Supra 5 spd (which if I remember right is what a friend of mine with a 4G63 powered StarQuest has) or even using a 6 speed from a Supra.

Hmm...strange... try going through my site ( http://www.dsetuning.com ) and clicking on the 4G64 Swap on the right side of the page. There is a company in Fl I think that builds a bell housing to adapt the old Celica trannies (they've used these trannies in many different models throughout the Toyota line) to the 4G63 bellhousing mounting pattern. I can get you more info on that if you want. Also, there are quite a number of StarQuests using a 4G63 now, so I think there must be an adapter to use it on their trannies, too.

Yeah, feel free to come by anytime. Hopefully by that time I will have the interior redone (I'm trying to locate a black interior - if you know anybody who has a black interior from a 77 that they're willing to sell lemme know!!) and have the engine installed, tuned, and running. I'm always up for meeting other Z owners!! There's not too many around my neighborhood if you know what I mean! Fortunately, except for the time I'm at work, the car is garaged, and sometimes my wife drops me off at work so it stays in the garage then, too...

David, funny...I just responded to your post on Zdriver... Hmm...I've heard of alot of TPS issues with our Z's...I wonder if...follow me here...you are loading up on fuel while keeping your foot in a certain position... Just for giggles, try swapping on another TPS if you have one laying around...

A couple of new pics that I just went and took... Spoiler is painted, but not on...I gotta get the install kit back from the body shop...

Azel, The 4G64/4G64 hybrid is a very new swap that I've come up with for 2G DSM owners. There are a few being built up around the country as we speak, including one I'm helping with here locally. The 4G64 and the 4G63 block are esentially the same block, they've just added a few extra oil drain holes for the head (although, there was a DOHC 4G64 for one year and one model of Galant that doesn't have those holes) and increased the bore from 85mm to 86.5mm (4G63 crank has a stroke of 88mm vs. the 100mm 4G64 crank) The only custom units that have to be used are the pistons, which will run you right at $500 for the pistons, pins, rings, and locks. The 4G64 shares the same rods as the 4G63, however, they are the 7 bolt variety rods, so they should be replaced if anything over 400hp is to be achieved reliably (1G rods can be machined to fit the 4G64 crank and these rods can be found very cheaply - however, a set of Eagle rods [Hbeam type - 750+hp] can be picked up for about $350 or so) You can use the 4G64 DOHC cylinder head gasket. I've outlined the parts needed on my site http://www.dsetuning.com or...here's a shortcut... http://www.geocities.com/awd92gsx/dse4g64.html I, unfortunately, am not working on one for my Z at the moment as I picked up a nicely built 83 ZXT engine for my car. I think in the future, though, I will definitely build one. One of the biggest problems with the engine, though, for DSM's is that it almost has TOO MUCH torque. The driveline MUST be upgraded on a DSM to use this engine. The long stroke coupled with the fantastic head flow of the 4G63 head means you will have an engine that outrev most 4's, and, if tuned right, kick the snot out of most 8's Rev limit should be kept below 9k rpm for reliability reasons, though.

Don't get so caught up in making sure you have "the right setup." It's your car. If you are having fun, roll with it. I have coilovers on my car, but I have no idea of their spring rates. I love the way it handles and I love the way it looks. Does it ride rough? Hell yeah. And I love it.

Hell yeah, I'm a ricer. With my own taste. Of course, not everybody will agree. Some people will look at my car and say, "Ricer" But, I will be the first to admit, "He who have Kung-Fu bodykit must have Kung-Fu engine." I used to think Playstations and TV's in a car was totally gay. Until one day I was sitting in a customers car and out popped an LCD screen with Gran Turismo playing on it...Now I'm thinking..."hey...I want one!"

I've seen plenty of 4G63 swaps done into Starions and Conquests...so I don't think swapping one into a Z would be anymore difficult. An early 4G63 bottom end will support over 500hp. There are many 11 second DSM's that have never pulled a valve cover off.

How do they look and function? I like that setup...

Lone, Hey...am I reading you right? You're in AZ now?

The 280ZXT engine is a great swap indeed...however, in a road racing application, it could be *iffy* on whether or not it'd be any better than just building up the N/T motor. Even though I'm about to swap a high powered ZXT engine into my car, I also realize that with the addition of the turbo components, I am adding slightly more weight to the front of the car. I haven't weighed my engine, but, I'm sure with everything attached, it comes close to about 500 or so lbs (I just had an '83 ZXT engine shipped to me at 720lbs, but it had a few extras in it [including the crate]) Now, compared to a rearward sitting hipo 4 cylinder that weighs *maybe* 300lbs that can produce 6 cylinder torque while keeping 4 cylinder revability, the heavyweight I6 may not be the *best* roadracer out there, but certainly gets the job done!! So, I'm kinda split on this one. On one hand you have less weight and better weight distribution at a higher cost and much higher install effort, and on the other hand you have an awesome and reliable powerplant that you can basically drop right in for a fairly cheap cost, but at the cost of weight distrubution and actually adding weight to the car (not alot, but to some people every single pound makes a difference). This is probably a neverending debate that people will continue until all of our Z's have been converted to electric and we have to lug around 500lbs of batteries (or a small thermonuclear device).

Have owned and drag raced AWD vehicles, I have to chime in... There is nothing like a good launch of an AWD high powered car. With full interiored street tired DSM's pulling 60 foots of 1.5, it's hard to argue the advantages of AWD. The only AWD issues are breakage of driveline parts. ..now...with that being said... It's true that top fuelers, prostockers and the likes will never run AWD or 4WD systems, but, have you seen the size of the tires on those badboys =o) Seriously, though, with as much torque as they have, having an AWD system becomes disadvantageous because the front wheels aren't on the ground anyway and the extra drivetrain would mean extra weight. Now, I'm not arguing the laws of physics, but, one cannot deny the fact that there are a multitude of WWD (Wrong Wheel Drive) 8 and 9 second cars out there. It's hard enough to make any 4 cyl. run an 8, so they must be doing something right.

Don't feel too bad, I have the same gap on my MSA rear skirt. Front air dam fits "Ok," but not *perfect* Looks fine, though, unless I told you about them you'd probably never even notice it.

Personally, I'd consider this... If you take a 1995-1998 2.4L Galant (or a 1995-1999 Eclipse Spyder N/T) block, fit in custom pistons (which are in the process of being built) you can bolt on the 1990-1999 Eclipse Turbo (GST-GSX) cylinder head (1990-1994 is 1G, considered better head - same for turbo and non turbo, 1995-1999 turbo cylinderhead). The result is a torquey long stroke (100mm x 86.5mm [stroke * bore]) high revving (up to about 8500-9000 rpm) engine that spools most decent sized turbos very quickly. I've seen a 2.3L (2.4L crank in a 2.0L block) spool a 20G at a little over 2000rpm (full boost). You would have an effective powerband from about 2300rpm to a little over 7k rpm. You can then couple this to either a Starion or a Toyota RWD tranny (using a custom bellhousing that is already manufacturered). This engine will produce torque across the entire rpm range and will produce over 500hp easily. Any turbos/camshafts/parts developed for a DSM will bolt right onto it.

Well, I got my hands on an '83 Nissan ECCS manual...hopefully this and your page will help. Thanks!

you sure the flywheel had the ringgear still on it? Don't think you are stupid or anything, but I have seen that before...

Damn...I guess that means I gotta get those JE's coming! Maybe if I hurry I can get this engine in and running 11's within the month!

Without a doubt, one of the sickest street Z's on the planet.