awd92gsx

Typically, for an alternator to charge, it has to receive power. Check and see if you're getting power to the back of the alternator .

Ron, I've seriously thought about that...but...I already paid $320 for it...hmm...maybe I'll just 3M Tape it on... Just kidding.

Thanks!! I'm pleased with the way the car looks now. I wish I could get my spoiler back so that I could put it on to complete the kit, however, I can't complain with the way it looks without it. Once I get the interior done and get the engine dropped in and tuned halfway decent that's it. I'm done. No more. I've learned with my DSM's that messing with a car too much takes all of the fun out of it. Start the key up, drive, and have fun. That's the essense of owning a true sports car.

Hmm...tilting it... That sounds logical. If you tilt it, you are getting a higher velocity across more fin surface area... LOL, ok, so I won't get to analytical. You won't have a problem. That's a pretty big FMIC!!!

Damn. You guys got some smokin' deals! I paid $550 for my turbo engine, but...it's not exactly stock...still will need some work before it is ready to drop in.

That only works if you have a "Powered by Datsun" decal across the door and a Type R badge on the rear decklid...sorry...

Thanks Scotty, I have headlight covers, but the mounting system is missing a couple of pieces, which I think I can figure out other pieces to use. I was thinking of, since they're scratched and faded anyway, of just painting them black and seeing how it looks (for show only, of course). I'm definitely looking forward to getting the turbo engine installed and running!

Treecutter (Matt), In response to your questions... 1) The quality is somewhat high, however, the cutting of the edges of the rear cover is a little flaky on my particular skirt...they are fibreglass, not urethane. 2) They're easy to put on. You just take off your lower valance on the front (and, of course the front and rear bumpers and supports - the front bumper is easy to remove. You will probably cuss some on the rear. You MUST lower the fuel tank. You don't have to completely remove it, I'd recommend you running your car almost completely empty before attempting this unless you have a lift and a tranny jack) Once the bumpers and supports are off, you just drill a couple of holes in the front kit and use the factory bolts to put them in the same spot as the lower valance (you'll see what I mean when you get it, they also include directions). The rear is easier. Just use some sheet metal screws to attach it on the outer ends and some 3M tape to attach it in the middle (or whatever you prefer) You can get them from MSA. They're $189 each for the front and rear. IF your car is lowered as much as mine is, be prepared to learn all new routes. Routes that avoid such hazards as potholes, bumps, speedbumpers However, for the first time I pulled up to a stop light and got a thumbs up from a domestic owner today.

LOL, I knew there was something I kept meaning to do! Done.

Hey, what can I say? The best form of flattery is imitation, or something like that.

Scotty, I also got my bumpers on and the car is finally painted!! I have to go back and get the spoiler on Wed. and install it, though. I also received my turbo engine today!! woohoo!!

Nezzie, Try emailing ZFerrari from zcar.com or zdriver.com and seeing if maybe he can help you out some.

http://www.drivetrain.com/nissian4_5sprwd.html

For me, it's the sound of this Honda... http://www.gti-vr6.net/GTI_vs_Civic/ PS...if you've never seen this animation before...watch it...it's one of the funniest animations on the net...

What kind of condition is the paint on your car currently? If it's in decent condition, just wet sand it with 400grit. There's no real reason to remove the old paint if it's in good condition. Sand it, apply a sealer, prime it, and shoot it. If the paint is all chipped and cracking and nasty looking, it's best to take it down to the bare metal, however, that can be alot more work in the end...but, your paint looks good in the pics. Why are you repainting it? Color change?

I've always liked the look, size, layout, and price of the FMIC available from turbochargers.com, which is what I had on my DSM and I think I will run on my Z, too. It's a 24" Griffen for $520 with the end tanks and everything installed. I think it'll fit perfectly in the Z and the inlet and outlet should be just right, too. http://www.turbochargers.com/currentspecials/FMIC.htm I stopped by yesterday (Saturday) at noon to pick the car up. The car was red, but the body kit had not been installed or painted yet...maybe today, but I doubt it...

Well, the guy I bought it from claimed it ran a 13.5 I haven't ran it yet, so I don't know for sure, but I dunno... The timing belt isn't the main issue as long as it's maintained, the trannies are the real weak points, or at least until the center diff is upgraded, however, on the 90-91's the rear axles snap like twigs once the power is upped to any substantial level. The "best" DSM to get is an April of '92. You get the good engine and the good rear end.

I don't know of any place aftermarket that has them, so your best bet would probably be the dealer, however Top End Performance may be able to help you find an aftermarket rebuild kit if there is one available. They do alot of StarQuests (and Z's, too) so they may be able to answer some questions about the compatibility of the swap...

Is there an FAQ on this anywhere? The swap looks pretty straightforward, but I'm under the impression that there are something like 7 wires that need to be spliced into the ZXT harness, I don't have the electrical manuals for either the '83 or my '77, so I was wondering if somebody has it documented already online. ???

One thing that can cause that is a bad PCV system...too much blowby can blow oil past the seals in your turbo...

Well, selling my DSM was a tough decision. Basically, I'm a tech for Mitsubishi, so I don't really like to work on cars unless I absolutely have to. My DSM was cursed so I ended up having to fix something every couple of months. The Z is much simpler to work on and appears to be more reliable. I haven't done one yet, but the clutch looks "Fischer-Price" easy. I'd seen a couple of sweet Z's, so I started researching them. The more I learned about them, the more I liked them. I liked the wide variety of options that they had. Different trannies, different engines, different rear ends, whatever the mind can think of, somebody has done to a Z. I got a pretty good deal on my '77, considering the amount of money that was put into it. For $2500 I got a straight Z with a halfway decent interior that already had a complete coilover suspension, adjustable camber plates, billet fuel rail, O-ring injectors, an upgraded cam, cold air intake, and a 2.5" magnaflo exhaust...however, I know the Z has much more potential left in it, the only way for me to get that potential out of it, though, was to sell the DSM and put every dime of it into the Z. My goal is simple. I want an 11 second show car that will kick ass on the road course That's not too much to ask is it? Hehe... I just bought the MSA front and rear body kit and the F40 style spoiler (can't wait to see if I made the right choice with that one, but I think it'll look good) and the car should now be Porsche Red as we speak (I go to pick it up in 3 hours). I've also bought an engine for it. It's an L28ET with a ported and polished P90A head, Schneider racing cam, blueprinted and balanced bottom end, Garret T3/T4 turbo, and JE 9:1 pistons (.20over) that is scheduled to arrive here on Monday (was supposed to be Friday, but the shipping company didn't call me until after I had walked out of the house to make the appointment on Thursday, so when I called Friday morning it was too late to have it delivered that day). DSM's are respectable in their own right and I won't ever completely walk away from them, but, Z's are a timeless classic that pretty much demands respect from young and old alike. If it wasn't for Z's, DSM's probably wouldn't exist. The Z car opened up the gateway for other import manufacturers, or so is my opinion.

The 1990-1992 4G63T's that came out of Mitsubishi Eclipse, Eagle Talon's, and Plymouth Laser (collectively known as DSM's) came stock with 195hp. However, having over 500hp on the stock bottom end is not unheard of. The 1G (1990-1994) cylinder head is about pretty close to perfection from the factory. Again, plenty of 11 second 4G63's out there that have never had the cylinder head off. Quite a few that have never even had the valve cover off. They came stock with TD05H-14B turbos that could support roughly 300-310hp and 450cc injectors that would support about the same, maybe slightly higher if you pushed them (they almost always get replaced earlier, though, to prevent fuel cut). A myriad of parts are available for the 4G63T, pretty much anything you can think of. At the moment, the quickest 4G63T that I can think of is owned by Dave Buschur and ran an 8.03@172mph in the 1/4 mile. HKS is also running them in the Lemans series now and is supposedly offering a 500hp crate engine, probably at a extremely overexpensive price...The 4G63T has been used in the Lancer Evolution since day one. $100 is pretty good for that rear end. Is that the only one that they have for that price?

the one guy that I know that has done a 4G63 conversion to his StarQuest broke one of his axles, so I don't know if they are all that strong, or if he just had a fluke...

No, they're not R200 rear ends, but they are of a LSD variety, 3.54 ratio. The rear ends seem to be holding up well (although, some StarQuest guys are wanting to try and run a 300ZX rear end) with some running 11's, a couple running 10's, and 1 or two running 9's. The only real advantage I have been able to find is that the StarQuest rear end has LSD and you can still maintain your current gear ratio...unless you have a 3.90 I'm still doing a little research on that...we don't get too many StarQuests in at the dealership anymore, so it's hard to do alot of comparing. While I'm on the subject, I've been considering doing more research on dropping in a 2.4L version of the 2.0L 4G63. I've figured out how to run a Galant 2.4L block (86.5mm x 100mm bore/stroke) with a 2.0L DOHC 16V head. If you couple this to a Starion tranny (or use a Toyota tranny with one of the available bell housings designed for use with the 4G63) then you end up with an engine that produces as much torque as our 2.8L's (or pretty close to it) over the entire RPM range, but has the rev and head flowing capabilities to produce high amounts of hp with minimal mods. I'm still debating, though...

If you ever have any DSM questions, feel free to ask. I've been modding DSM's since around '95 and have been a tech for Mitsubishi for about 3 years now...