rsicard

Richard: Need your Email address for PanPal. Thannks. Rolland Sicard Tucson, Arizona.

The Autometer Tach is somewhat on the expensive side. If the 327 was installed with the JTR engine mount kit, then the hood latch mount needs to be replaced such that the HEI distributor can be installed by pulling the hood latch and mount, installing the HEI and putting back the mount and hood latch. Check with Speedhut on their Tachs as they are 1" smaller in diameter. Then the factory tach can be removed with the dash in place, remove the guts of the factory tach saving the metal backshell. The gut the metal backshell and have a circular adapter ring made to fit the Speedhut tach and inside the metal backshell. Tack weld this adapter ring into the metal backshell at an appropriate depth and feed the wires through the back of the backshell and hook up same. The Speedhut tach illumintes through the dial as this is not always the case with the Autometer Gauges. Just hook up the backlight to +12v all the time the key is in the run position. New VWs have max bright on gauges all the time day or night and it provides VERY GOOD VISIBILITY.

Richard, if you still have some I would like to purchase same. Do you accept a payment via PayPal? Please advise. Thanks. Rolland Sicard Tucson, Arizona.

The most cost effective solution is to purchase the Stainless Steel KMJ Block Hugger Headers and wrap them with a good heat wrap. This is a VERY EFFECTIVE method of reducing under-hood heat. I have purchase the KMJ Block Hugger Headers and they fit just fine as they have clearance between the steering shaft and the headers. I plan on using plenty of exhaust wrap not only on the headers but also further back to reduce heat migration into the transmission and differential as they will be generating their own heat. If necessary may circulate T56 trans fluid through the cooler built into the radiator.

Go to Ebay. Look for Stainless Steel SBC Block Hugger Headers form KMJ. Order same, install and heat wrap. Done.

The REALLY good factory small block are VERY RARE! The good ones have been sonic tested for cylinder wall thickness. The better choice is the Summit Racing block or Dart SHP blocks. When assembling with selected parts for the bottom end the level of quality will be KNOWN not in question. Per the linked article the AFR cylinder heads are ahead of their competitors for Gen I and II SBCs.

There is one big drawback to the Audi V6 engine with Drive By Wire. That is the electronics for the drive-train. If the owner of the Datsun into which the Audi V6 is installed has considerable experience in electronics, embedded computer systems and Controller Area Networks (CAN) and he is a wiring guru then the swap is doable. Otherwise not. Using modern (exotic?) engines, be they made on shore or off shore, the persons swapping them need to be very knowledgeable in three different fields which is extremely rare.

Electronic Flasher should be easy to find. Instead of 2 connecting lugs the electronic flashers have 3 lugs. Careful when replacing to get the proper connections. The third lug needs to be grounded. If there is a second flasher for emergency mode, two electronic flashers need to be purchased.

Zack_280: It is obvious that detonation is the cause of the pitting wherein some of the material has melted away. It was not said what type ECU was reflashed. Need to determine what the compression ratio is of the present setup. More importantly the MSII ECU needs to have adjustable timing map and VE map that are somewhat easy to change. What will be the method by which the MSII attains crankshaft timing? What is the present setup of the EFI and Spark timing by the reflashed ECU? Ignition timing on a boosted engine is VERY important over the whole RPM and dynamic load range. As the engine is lugged down with dynamic load the spark timing needs to be automatically adjusted appropriately otherwise detonation is CERTAIN. The crank timing method needs to very accurate and the ECU needs to be reprogrammed based on appropriate feedback data. Also photograph the tops of the pistons for reference purposes. One sure fire method to arrest damage to the head and pistons is to have them coated with ceramic coating. I have done this in my shop and the results are very good. I presently am outfitting a Small Block Chev V8 to a 240Z with Electromotive TEC3 Ignition and EFI and it is VERY precise ignition and fuel injection system. The preliminary stages of EFI setup are already done. Have experience in previous EFI modifications.

Really appreciate your comments as they are valuable. What modifications were made to the RT mount in order to accommodate the GM poly trans mount? Don't understand the portion of the comment about using the stock rubber mount or is that the outer mounts for the front(s) of the suspension "A" arm(s)?

Trying to make 400-450 FWHP on 20K is going to be a real challenge assuming the body is in very good condition.

Nigel: That is a very good tip to notch the GM mount to fit the rounded nose of the diff. The RT bracket as fabricated from the drawing needs to have the horizontal cross brace of the bracket on the forward side in other words just reverse the mounting as that shown on the drawing. Otherwise it just gets in the way of things. I have the Energy Suspension GM urethane mount and will grind/notch for the round nose of the diff. If lucky may fit as I have a R200 Long nose diff in a 1971 Datsun 240Z with the original forward "A" Arm mount/pivot from the original R180 diff mount.

The small things are exactly that. The engine is the heart of the matter providing propulsion along with the transmission and rear end. A more powerful engine says that you need better supporting machinery to augment a more powerful power-plant. The 383 SBC is about the most cost effective (best ROI) approach to more power in a compact package. The refinements to it just make it more efficient. 1.3 HP/Cu In is good for a normally aspirated engine. And a better HP/Cu In figure can be obtained.

John: Emotions, not rational/logical decisions, are going to be involved in discussions. Cost, parts availability, population and least complexity should be the objective for selecting a reliable and powerful engine.

Understand. With the Camaro factor brackets I recommended before on Ebay the conventional SBC water pump can be eliminated by running a shorter serpentine belt which runs the AC and alternator off the crank pulley.

What is your objection to cause shredding of this thread? People expressing themselves shows their level of knowledge and experience. So long as their is no nastiness. Please reply John.

The Generation 1 SBC can be as effective as the LT1 and parts and options are more plentiful. Summit Racing has 350 blocks already prepared for 383 stroker components. The cost effective approach is to go directly with the Summit block, Scat cast 3.75 stroke crankshaft, scat I beam rods and SRP Pro Pistons. This is an easy assembly of parts. Add an oil pump and pan and the bottom end is done. Add a good camshaft, pete jackson timing gear drive and timing cover. Then go with self oiling solid roller lifters (.300 taller), Comp Cams heavy wall push rods, 1.6 ratio rocker arms and AFR cylinder heads. The latter will be the most expensive but well worth the price. Then you will know EXACTLY what you have in the engine.

And it all fits under the hood of the 240Z. Proven twice so far. Questions?

Go to Ebay item number 320692423832

Think about Fuel Injection. Purchase a 4 barrel manifold and put a 4 barrel throttle body on it for fuel injection. Have the manifold machined for fuel injector bungs and tig them in place. I have experience with several fuel injection systems and the most flexible is the Electromotive system. Carbs have rich and lean spots up and down the RPM and load curves. Fuel injection can tune out all the irregularities and is very consistent.

American V8s provide a LOT of power and performance for the money. Don't be one sided. Overhead cam engines have more parts to fail than American Pushrod V8s and have to be pushed to high RPMs and boosted to make good power. Proper transmission and rear end gearing integrated with the engine power band is important.

The alternator will need a heavy gauge wire from it to a fuse block and then to the positive battery lead. Alternator will also require a lighter gauge wire for excitation from fuse block in run position of ignition key. The battery positive will need another heavy gauge wire to the starter. The starter will need a light gauge wire to the ignition switch hot in start position of key. Ignition coil will need a hot wire from key in start and run positions. Low side of ignition coil going to points or solid state distributor switch can have tach attached to it. Oil pressure sender and engine temperature sender will both need light gauge wires going to them. Radiator Fan will need heavy gauge wire going to it from heavy current relay tied back to heavy fuse tied back to battery positive. AC compressor if used will need clutch control wiring. Headlight wiring needs to have heavy current relays put in series with positive or ground side of circuits to eliminate Datsun design fault. Same with running lights and turn signals or switch them to replacement LED bulbs. Electronic Speedometer if used will need two light gauge wire from Trans to Speedometer. Some existing wiring can be used and some new wiring may have to be added. Make a list and check it many times until it becomes VERY clear in your mind. Any more questions?

LT1240Z I have installed a Small Block Chevrolet Generation 1 into a 240Z. Went on Ebay and purchased accessory brackets from a Camaro that mount GM AC compressor, Alternator, Power Steering Pump and Smog pump if needed. Can be used less the PS pump and Smog pump with shorter serpentine belt. These brackets should fit up to the LT1. Any questions?

The technoversion has ADDITIONAL clearance for the fuel and brake lines. Fabbed the Ron Tyler mount per the original drawing and tryed to put it into my Datsun 240Z. The strap holes are closer together on the 240Z. Made two additional holes and installed. There was not clearance for the GM mount on the top of the retrofitted R200 differential. Made a steel snubber block with rubber cushion on top to collide with Ron Tyler mount. As typical there are no dimensions on the technoversion to know that it is taller than the Ron Tyler designed mount to accommodate the GM mount. Need to contact Technoversion to find out if their mount is taller than the Ron Tyler one.

When it comes to the power and torque of a V8 engine, the 280Z stub axles have an inherent design weak spot. Best to go with the MM beefy stub axles.