rsicard

jusjofok: There is a LOT of tune-ability for EFI systems. Just depends upon which EFI system is chosen. If not computer and engine literate, then stay with Carbs.

misturmoneybags: If the engine temps are running high in traffic during the summer, get a water pump from Stewart Components, a good aluminum radiator, a good flush of the system and a high capacity ducted electric fan behind the radiator.

jgkurz: The only thing that seems to have been passed over is the condenser. It is the item that exchanges heat into the air. It is VERY important that it work efficiently. Likely the one that you have is an OLD design. The newer designs are much more efficient. Try a new one from someone like Vintage Air.

RB26280z: Do a search on Subaru power steering racks as this subject has been discussed before.

Drewz75t: The L31 will need an externally balanced Flywheel. Fidanaza or someone else may have a flywheel to fit your application with the T5.

Luigi: I have looked at SEVERAL different headers and with my Angle Plug Cylinder Heads I am going with Sanderson CC134 for 1 3/4" headers as it looks like these headers stay away from the spark plugs.

Grumpyvette: Just went out to the SBC Block and measured several dimensions. This is a later model factory roller block. From the top of the lifter boss to the base circle of the cam (LT-4 Hot Cam) is 2.375. The base circle measures 1.187"/2 = .5935". 2.375" (top of lifter boss to base circle) + .5935 (Radius of base circle) = 2.9685". Top of lifter boss to top of Oil Galley = .906". Top of lifter boss to bottom of Oil Galley = 1.406". Oil Galley = 1.405 - .906 = .5". 2.9685 - .5935 (base circle Radius) = 2.375". 2.375 - 1.406 (Bottom of Oil Galley to Top of Lifter Boss) = .969" which is from base circle of cam to bottom of Oil Galley. Then .969" + .5 (for Galley Dia) = 1.469 base circle to top of Oil Galley. CompCams 818 solid roller lifter center of top oil hole to push rod is 1 15/32 which is 1.468. So when the 818 solid roller lifter is on the base circle. OIL will reach the oil hole in the lifter for the push rod. This Oil hole in the lifter is 3/32 in diameter. Now I am satisfied that Oil will get to the pushrods!

Kenji: Fuel Safe has fuel cells into which in-tank fuel pumps can be mounted as a kit. This is the SAFEST way to go.

hawaiifiveo: My wife has a 1994 FULL SIZE Buick Roadmaster with a LT-1 350 engine, 4L60E transmission and a Non-Posi rear end. There are VERY few cars that can match this Buick at the starting line including a 5.3 pickup. It accelerates like MAD. Just hard to imagine it being upgraded to a 383!!!

Hawiifiveo: I would seriously look at a LT-1 or LT-4 and get is for cheap money. Then find a T56 to join up with it. Rebuild the LT-1 or LT-4 to a stroker 383 cu in for about 6.3 Liters. Use SCAT crank, rods and SRP Pro Pistons. Then purchase AFR-195 heads for it and a good intake manifold, bigger fuel injectors, harness and computer. This should cost less than a good 6.0 liter LS engine and yield MORE HP and Torque.

Grumpyvette: I have purchase a set of 818-16 CompCams Solid Roller Lifters. There are two oil holes in the lifter. One is for the roller bearings on the roller shaft and the other is to route oil to the pushrod. Please look at CompCams page 242 at the Endurex lifters which part number 818-16 is, and note the upper oil hole is Perpendicular to the Oil Gallery and does not appear to have a path for oil to get to it and to the pushrods. Go to Isky Cams Web Site and look at the Red Zone solid roller lifters on the home page under featured products and note the same oil hole with a black spot between it and the lower oil bypass portion of the lifter. That looks to be a milled or ground out groove for oil to get to the upper lifter oil hole and then to the pushrod. Please study this carefully and see if you can come up with a logical path for the oil to get to the lifter upper oil hole. Called CompCams, asked the question and got A LOT OF SILENCE.

sq creations: 499 Gram pistons? Dam those things are heavy. Good to see the progress with the build.

Zzeal: Really appreciate your posting these photos. Really helps to visualize just what can be done to protect the driver. Thanks MUCH.

rustorbust: CAREFULL! The earlier non-roller manufactured blocks have a less tall lifter boss. From your photos it appears the roller lifters are sticking up more than on a 1-piece rear main seal factory roller type block. Consult with Grumpyvette before ordering a camshaft.

Tomcraft: Use the stock Z rear brakes. See John Coffey's recommendations on brakes. He says keep the stock rear brakes. It is the front brakes that matter the most.

Tomcraft: To get where you want to go maybe the easiest way to get there is with a Magnacharger supercharger. Best to start out with a LSx cast iron block and proceed from there.

Fellows: I REALLY like these photos. Let's hope there are more out there that can chime in with more photos. Speaking of that, how does one post these photos? I have tried but what I get is "What is the URL?". Don't understand this at all. Someone please advise. Thanks.

Pyro: Will putting in an "X" crossover in place of the "H" pipe accomplish the same thing as the "H" pipe? Please advise. Thanks.

dr_hunt: Yes, 230 or even 250 F doesn't kill the engine but it sure doesn't help it. Manufacturers chose the 195 thermostat for Emissions purposes. After my experience with high temp Chevy Big Block I only trust one manufacturer that is Stewart Components. Bought a new Edelbrock Aluminum water pump and it leaked out of the box. Not real good quality. NEVER a problem with Stewart Components who make the water pumps for NASCAR teams also. The temperature sender hole on the Small Block Chevy is located IN-BETWEEN the two intake valves in the head DIRECTLY above the coolant passage from the block. This should yield cooler numbers than at the thermostat. Per David Vizard's Max Performance Chevy Small Blocks on a Budget book "Having the oil at a high temperature and the water at a lower temperature is worth a measurable amount of horsepower. Just being able to elevate the oil temperature from 180 to 210 degrees F on a typical 300 horse small block Chevy is worth about five horsepower, and independently pulling the water temperature down to about 170 from around 200 degrees F is worth about six or seven horsepower."

Pyro: Thanks very much for sharing your experience on exhaust systems to reduce interior noise. I will use the same configuration. Just wondering, does the H pipe balance the exhaust pulses as far as you can tell from the sound of the tailpipe? Pictures of your exhaust system would be nice. Please advise. Thanks.

280z-racer: From Electromotive Web site looks like the same harness is used but pins 16 and 17 of the white connector are not used.

StrokinIT: You will get what you pay for. Strongly suggest buying a new 383 short block then adding good aluminum heads, performance camshaft and performance intake manifold. Then you would really have something and not go through the hassle of buying all the many individual new parts and make it relatively simple to assemble.

Dr Hunt: Don't get so upset. Just pointing out the facts. Disagree on location of the temp sensor. He is likely not running Circle Track nor NASCAR. In NASCAR the engines are likely rebuilt after ONE race. What is the justification for running 230 to 250 degrees? Oil is not the PRIMARY cooling medium. The condenser is not MODERN and looks to be oversized for the application. Understand efficient radiator, proper water flow and adequate water flow. Pointed out a DIRECT experience with undersized GM type water pumps. The suggested source for VERY GOOD water pumps was IGNORED. Need more?