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rsicard

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Everything posted by rsicard

  1. Don't rip out ANY WIRING unless you know for absolute certain that it will not be needed! The later Datsun/Nissan wiring diagrams are VERY CONFUSING. Go to Ebay and purchase color 11x17" wiring diagrams and then sort out for CERTAIN what is not needed!
  2. Alainburon: When finished the 240Z will have a greater horsepower to weight ratio than a new Corvette. I also want a 240Z that is unique. Using a Gen I and started at a baseline of 500+ Hp/Tq and exceeded the baseline in valve lift (honest .600+), duration, solid vs hydraulic roller and fuel injection with 1000+ cfm throttle body.
  3. Got to hand it to Zgeezer that he is correct. Never gave it a thought to use the lower JTR radiator bracket below the front frame rails. Temporarily clamped the bracket below the frame rails and but the JTR radiator in and just as Zgeezer has said it DOES FIT. Already have a Griffin Radiator being built with double row of 1.25" tubes in the core, whereas as the JTR radiator has only one row. The JTR radiator was used one the engine run-in stand as worked well at ambient temps of 75-85 degree F. It held 180 degrees as this is the thermostat that was installed. Yet with a AC condenser installed in front of it in the 240Z the JTR radiator may fall short of proper cooling, thus the order for a Griffin Radiator with double row 1.25" cooling tubes. That should cool adequately here in Arizona with the AC condenser in front of the radiator.
  4. Summit Racing has a 383 Small Block Chev for $651. If all the machining is done, this is a good deal. At most further machining for near zero deck and fit the pistons. Knowing Summit Racing the block is sound.
  5. Just have to ask, what method/process was used to do such a good job on the Dash. Have to do one of these myself. The paint job shown is very good.
  6. Just make sure that you start with a good foundation aka a good block. The good choices are a late manufactured single piece 350 block as it likely was CNC machined and is precise. The best choice is an aftermarket block and this costs $1500.00 and is the best foundation to start from. Scat cast 3.75 stroker crank is $200. Scat I beam rods are $300. SRP lightweight pistons with Metric rings are $600 and the best choice. As for cylinder heads the AFR heads cannot be beat but the price must be paid. Internally balance the rotating assembly and use neutral balance fluid damper and neutral balance flywheel.
  7. The friction and restriction of the fuel line between the rear mounted regulator and carb is NEVER ZERO. There is ALWAYS a drop in the feed line. Put the regulator and return near the tank and adjust the regulator for the proper pressure at the carb.
  8. Get newer design cylinder heads and performance camshaft. More horsepower equals more money!!! Face this reality.
  9. Propose to the owner about draining checking the oil and if no moisture is found then change the filter and fill with oil that you have purchased. If the owner hesitates consider it as a sign that something major may be wrong. The other option is to purchase the engine explaining to the owner the reusable parts are the block if it passes inspection, pressure, crack, sonic testing and the magni-fluxing crankshaft. The purchase is a gamble. What is put into the block for machining and components will far outweigh the cost of the bare block. You decide.
  10. Do what was done in the link that you posted. Drain the oil, check for any sign of coolant, change the filter and put in new oil if no coolant detected. Then run it till it gets up to temperature and then 15 minutes beyond getting up to temperature. Shut it down come back in an hour and check the dipstick for oil color.
  11. Don't understand the comment about sculpting clay. Is the color grey or brown/tan? Ask the owner of the suburban what caused the oil to appear the color it is. Ask if it has been rebuilt at some point and how many miles are on the engine and since rebuild if applicable. There must be a reason for the off color oil.
  12. If you were able to run the 400 SBC then the ignition MUST have been working. Gave this situation further thought and there is a cooling system sealant that is powdered lead that is supposed to bunch up at the leak and stop same. Suspect this sealant was used and there is or was a cooling system leak into the lubrication system. Highly suspect there is a head gasket leak or at worst a hole in one water jackets of the cylinders to the crankcase. The only items of ANY VALUE are the block and crankshaft. The remainder will need to be replaced at rebuild provided the block is OK. The low cost cylinder heads with best performance for the price will be the Vortec Cylinder heads. Be careful, get cylinder heads at a reasonable cost that have been reconditioned or new. Get the block sonic tested FIRST if torn down BEFORE proceeding ANY FURTHER. The cylinder heads, camshaft, intake manifold and fuel control will dictate the amount of power generated. The more spent on cylinder heads, camshaft and induction system the more power generated.
  13. It looks as though you have found the one very important clue in the silty grey oil. Should be blacker than grey. Suspect a water leak in the block. Drain the oil from the pan and leave the oil plug out. If the radiator is still there, fill the cooling system with water and obtain a pressure pump and adapters for radiator neck. Pressurize the system and look for water leaks especially from the oil pan. Small Block Chev's of that generation can suffer from core shift when the block was cast. The 400 small block may have weak spots in the cylinder bores. The only way to truly know is complete dis-assembly and sonic test each bore for wall thickness. Should be approx 0.200" minimum.
  14. codyethridge : Aside the issue of driving in Germany, finding a good 327 is getting difficult as they are much fewer in number than the 350. The same objectives can be achieved with the 350 and they are MUCH more plentiful and therefore CHEAPER and so are the parts for same. The reason for recommending the SRP professional pistons is their design, light weight and strength. With 6" rods the piston becomes lighter. Then the rotating assembly can be INTERNALLY balanced. Neutral balanced flywheel and front damper can be used. When it comes to dampers use the fluid dampers as they are the MOST effective. Yes this is the more expensive path, but the results can be BULLET proof and every bit as effective as Gen III and IV small blocks. The cylinder heads, camshaft and intake dictate efficiency of the engine. Admittedly when designed for most power at 5000+ RPM, efficiency will be less at lower RPMs. This can be fixed by a less aggressive camshaft. By putting a 2 piece timing cover on making it much easier to swap out camshafts. Best to use a camshaft gear drive as their will be MUCH more accurate cam and distributor timing (less spark scatter) over the life of the engine. The SMALL down side is extra noise from the gear drive. With lighter weight reciprocating bottom end the engine will wind up quicker. When doing a 350 doing it right the first time yields more than satisfactory results. Doing it a second time is much more expensive. You decide. These recommendations come from experience and extensive reading of David Vizard's books and Internet posts. Next to Smokey Yunick (Deceased), David Vizard is an expert on Engine Building. Look these two guys up and you will find a wealth of knowledge regarding engine builds.
  15. Cody: Retain the 400 block complete. The 327 will be costly to purchase. Buy a good 350 4 bolt main single piece rear seal block, bore it .030" put a SCAT 3.48" stroke forged crank. 6.125" SCAT forged I beam rods, SRP Professional pistons which are only 376 grams each (very light weight forged) for the bottom end. For the top end AFR-195 competition cylinder heads, an appropriate camshaft and good intake manifold and carb. The camshaft should be solid roller type, solid roller lifters and Comp Cams thick wall push-rods and 1.6 ratio rockers. The camshaft will be the most important as to where in the RPM range the peak horsepower and peak torque occur. With the camshaft solid rollers a more aggressive lift camshaft can be used and 7000 to 8000 RPM is doable. This camshaft can be such that the 350 will be somewhat mild below 5000 RPM and come on VERY strong above same, aka 327 like. Good around town and very good at the track. I am in Tucson also and have built a stroked 350 similar to that described above. Can recommend suppliers and local machine shops.
  16. RB26powered74zcar: Your recommendation for another source of Chrome Moly Stub Axles have the same failure mode as the 27 spline 280Z Stub Axles. I worked with MMS on their BEEFY stub axles and we overcame this failure mode.
  17. Ztogo: One important question. What was used for filler on the dash?
  18. Ztogo: Just noticed your writeup on the dash. Will use this extensively. THANKS!
  19. Ztogo: You have done fantastic work on the 240Z. Everything is immaculate. You mentioned using something on the dash. Can you describe the process and materials used to restore the dash PLEASE. Keep up the good work and ESPECIALLY the good photos. Keep them coming. I also have a 240Z and wish to restore the dash. Also putting in a SBC engine and manual trans.
  20. PhaTTy: The ONLY advantage a LSx has on the Gen I and II Small Block Chev is a factory stock lightweight aluminum block. The latest factory LSx cylinder heads have gone full circle back to rectangular intake ports (ala Gen I, II and BBC) from cathedral ports. With similar displacement the results are nearly the same between Gen I/II and III/IV. The LSx parts are more expensive than Gen I and II parts and the latter are more plentiful. Scrap that convertible notion and get an early 240Z that is in fairly good and compete condition and start from there. You won't regret it.
  21. PhaTTy: Thanks for being OPEN minded to changes from others. For this project the surface has been scratched. Keep posting progress and asking questions. I have a 1971 240Z which weighed in at 2460 lbs with the original 6 cylinder engine and trans all in running condition. Want to keep the weight down. Suspension at all 4 corners have adj coil overs with Koni adj racing shocks. R180 differential replaced by R200 Clutch Limited Slip Diff (CLSD), half shafts replaced with CV types and Modern Motorsports BEEFY stub axles installed all to withstand 500+ ft lbs of torque. SRP professional (light weight and STRONG) pistons used in 383 to achieve maximum squish and quench with .030" cometic head gasket. Forget Scat crank and Scat Forged I-beam rods used so the bottom end is all forged assembly all internally balanced. Neutral balance damper and flywheel used. T56 trans to go behind the 383. This 383 baselined after Dyno tested engines seen on AFR cyl head Web site. Exceeded all specs of the baseline configuration. T56 trans to get special treatment for weak spots. Working on EFI system at present time. With 500+ HP and TQ, the horsepower to weight ratio is better than a new Corvette and maybe a Viper.
  22. PhaTTy: There was a considerable thought and experience put into the previous response. Hypereutectic Pistons are BRITTLE and HEAVY. Spend the extra money for the SRP Professional for 6 inch rods and get FORGED (Strong) LIGHTWEIGHT pistons. The Scat 6 inch rods will come with the appropriate ARP bolts. The cast Scat crank is good for 5000 RPM. Above that go with the Scat forged 3.75 stroker crank. Comp Cams has .105 inch wall (Thick Wall) push rods i.e. much less FLEX for more precise valve action. Forget the Cloyes true roller chain, go to Pete Jackson GEAR drive, i.e. less spark scatter translated to distributor. Use Big Block Oil Pump (more pump teeth, less induced spark scatter), attendant pickup and oil pan. Much consideration put into these aspects. It is IMPOSSIBLE to regain the torsional stiffness and light weight of the original roof, A and C pillars. Get another good early 240Z!!! They come in at 2400 Lbs significantly lighter than others. Then properly cross-brace with roll-cage. Cannot emphasize this ENOUGH. Take it from one who is experienced in these matters. Take these responses SERIOUSLY and the end product will be much BETTER.
  23. PhaTTY: STOP!!! Slow down. I am going down this path and something can be learned by others experiences. You have only spent $500.00 which is a drop in the bucket compared with what you will spend on restoring/modifying a 240Z. Find a nearly rust free early 240Z that needs restoring and pay a fair (NOT EXCESSIVE) price for it. The purpose being that the roof and attendant structure provide a significant amount of STIFFNESS to the whole body. Then strip it and weld any questionable seams on the UniBody. Then reinforce the sub-frame with Bad Dog reinforcement sub-frame beef up kit. Then integrate a locally fabbed roll cage with adequate cross bracing to add further chassis stiffness. Obtain David Vizard's latest book and go with a 350 cu in Generation 1 or 2 Small Block Chevrolet. The Gen 1 is cheaper for performance parts. The Gen 1 350 block is cheap and can be made into a 383 fairly cheap. Suggest using Scat Stroke Cast Crank, Rods and SRP Professional Pistons. These pistons are LIGHTWEIGHT and get the assembly INTERNALLY balanced. First find a decent block and get it cleaned and magnafluxed before using same. Then get the block machined near Zero Deck or .005" in the hold and line honed. Order Scat Rods with ARP-2000 rod bolts and then no worries. DON'T cheap out on the cylinder heads. Go with AFR cylinder heads and if possible the competition model. They flow the best of all on the market. Forget Hydraulic Roller Lifters go to SOLID roller lifters and an aggressive Comp Cams solid roller camshaft. Hydraulic lifters give up lift for noise reduction. Use 1.6 or better ratio rocker arms. Try to get .600" or better HONEST lift at the valves to get it to BREATH properly. Any questions so far???
  24. Purchase David Vizard's latest book for ideas. It's too late now, yet when building the bottom end go to 383 cu in by spending another $200.00 for a cast stroker crank. Rods and (Professional SRP very lightweight) Pistons are nearly the same cost as already spent. Then invest in good cylinder heads AKA AFR 195 SBC heads. Spend the extra $500.00 and get the competition heads and you have the best bar none! Forget the Hyd cam and go to solid roller of about 240 - 250 duration at .050, 1.6 ratio rockers (honest good valve lift all the time) and a good intake and fuel system. Then 500+ streetable HP/TQ is well within reach.
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