rsicard

The wiring diagrams are for different years of the Datsun. Need the year Datsun, VIN number and date of manufacture to determine the appropriate wiring diagram. Then you need to identify the wire colors used from the original Datsun wiring and where you connected them and for what purpose. In other words, you need someone with a VERY GOOD electronics/electrical and automotive background to advise you on the wiring and modifications to same. I have 40+ years experience in Aviation Electrical/Electronics and I still have difficulties with Datsun Wiring Diagrams. And I have a 1971 Datsun 240Z which will get a High Power modified V8 and all the weaknesses WILL be taken OUT of the Datsun Wiring after much research.

Oops, that should read 100,000+ miles. The only advantage the LSx has on the Gen I and II blocks is that FACTORY aluminum blocks are available in the used aftermarket. The cylinder head, camshaft and induction system are the REAL keys to making HP and TQ.

The information is QUITE CORRECT. With a little research the proper components for a LT-1 can be found. Just to prove so, look at the Dyno runs on AFR cylinder heads sight. They learned from the latest Chevrolet Corvette cylinder heads tricks which DO NOT have cathedral intake ports. They have gone back to rectangular port heads and specific CNC machining to enhance swirl of the intake mixture. With the proper build bottom, top end and without a Turbo Charger 500+ HP and 500+ TQ is easily attainable. As said before, the MSD billet Opti Spark distributor takes care of the distributor problems on the LT-1. I know from personal experience, I had an LT-1 and it is still running fine with 100,00+ miles on it and still runs like NEW. I am building one of these 500+ HP/TQ GEN 1 SBCs right now and it EXCEEDS the specs of the Dyno'd ones on AFR Internet Site! Have learned a lot over the years of rebuilding engines! Ford is STILL trying to build engines that match GM (Push Rod) engines for HP TQ etc. They just have a LOT MORE parts in their engines which can fail. Much has been learned about swirl, tumble and quench in wedge type cylinder heads. I use all the latest affordable racing tricks available in building Small Block Chev (SBC) engines. Best horsepower and torque for the smallest package!

Boat: Keep the Mustang and find an early 240Z that is as rust free as possible. Then if you want a performer of a Z modify it by putting in a V8 and beef up the diff, half shafts, stub axles, suspension and sub frame. Am in the process of doing same for use at road race, drag strip and street. Takes some doing but the process of buildup can be fun.

No port work needed with competition AFR heads. Go to their site and look at the Dyno runs to get an idea of parts combinations to achieve 500+ HP on 383 cu in. Use light weight JE SRP professional pistons, SCAT crank and I beam rods. Ceramic coat piston crowns, Zero deck the block and use thin head gaskets for best quench. Go to Solid Roller Lifters, aggressive camshaft lift/duration and 1.6 ratio rockers. Intake Manifold ports to match heads. Easy to achieve 500+ HP and TQ.

Long240project: Thanks a BUNCH for this info.

Long240project: Who makes or where is that turn signal stalk available. Please advise. Thanks.

Over the RPM range of the engine, the Carb will have rich and lean curves. The screwdriver can only set the IDLE fuel mixture. Granted EFI is more expensive than a Carb. But EFI is tunable, both Fuel and Ignition, THOUGHOUT the RPM range. With Carbs the main jets need to be changed with changes in Barometric Pressure and Humidity to achieve optimum mixture burn. EFI continually uses feedback from the exhaust to adjust fuel mixture for optimum quality throughout the RPM range.

With a good ECU, wiring harness, Optispark, fuel pump, fuel pressure regulator and plug wires everything should be a GO. MSD makes a VERY GOOD replacement for the Opti-Spark much better than the originals. 1994, 1995 were OBDI wheras 1996 was OBDII and much more complicated.

The Carb is the DEVIL. They take a LOT more maintenance than a good Fuel Injection System to keep them in good condition. Typical TBI injected 350 engines from the junk yard have MUCH less wear than the carb'd 350 engines with the same mileage. The carbs tend to wash down the cylinders with raw fuel especially on start-up. Typically if the choke system works properly on the carb, then one pump on the gas pedal usually sets the choke to the proper position when COLD. This shot of RAW fuel will tend to wash down cylinder walls on at least one cylinder. Multiple pumps on the gas pedal just make the situation WORSE. It is surprising the comments to the former post on this subject and the number of negative responses to same.

The block is a Pre 1987 two piece rear main seal block. The only thing of value MIGHT be LOW MILEAGE Pistons, Rods and Crankshaft. If the mileage is UNKNOWN, then look for another one. Ditch the aluminum rockers as aluminum has a tendency to crack whereas steel will NOT.

Logan1: Yes it is doable IF a Fuel Injected 350 engine with a good bottom end, compression and oil pressure can be found. Without this it WILL NOT BE DOABLE for $1000.. Further, with a Carb for induction, the short block will go down hill at an accelerated rate. If fuel injection is used and proper oil changes, then the short block will last LONGER.

Logan1: The first engine sounds like the most promising. Find out how many miles are on it. Suspect the piston and rods were CHEAP. Find out if it was bored and how much and if the pistons are non-forged. (cheap). Find out if it has the original crank and if the mains or rod journals were turned down. Find out what cylinder heads. If not performance heads get the price reduced. Heads, cam, intake and Carb determine the performance of the engine. The most sure way to go is with a rebuilt short block and performance cylinder heads unless a MILD engine is what will be settled for.

Dunlop: Likely you are very correct. I also have a T56 that came from a 93-97 camaro/firebird and it has an electronic pulse output for the speedometer. It is only recently that new T56 are manufactured with either electronic or mechanical speedo cable output. The latter requires proper speedo gears to match up with the mechanical speedo in the vehicle. The modern electronic speedos are much easier to interface to modern custom speedos.

LeroyLucky: The workmanship on that exhaust system is FIRST CLASS! It doesn't get any better than that. Two bullets resonator/muffler prior to the final muffler. Are all three the same part number? Are they truly resonators or mufflers? Who is the manufacturer of all three? Is that 2.5" exhaust tubing? Please advise. Thanks.

Lane: I have Electromotive (sequential port) fuel injection. Have studied all the fuel injection options and this one appears to be as good as the best from FAST. I will try to reverse engineer the stock 240Z turn signal and headlight/wiper stalks so that I can understand how to rewire them along with an standard and more expanded fuse panel. Will add heavy relays to the headlights and cooling fan etc. Likely convert over to LED easy replacements for the bulbs in taillights, marker lights, turn signal and brake lights. Front brakes will get upgraded. Convert to power steering and hydroboost for the brakes. Have brackets for power steering pump and Air Conditioning compressor, Alternator and water pump. Found the JTR radiator sent to me is TOO TALL. Going to a Griffin Racing radiator for the all out 383 stroker SBC. Want to race the car (road race) and drive also on the street and maybe the drag strip. In the process of wiring the Fuel Injection and Engine Bay.

What is the issue with the Speedo?

Long240project: What is being done with the wiring? Did you find a fuse block and wiring kit that will go into the 240Z? What will be done with the turn signal and headlight switch stalks? I have to go through this process myself with a SBC and T56 trans in a 240Z. Hoping you will share some of your thoughts on this process.

Gentlemen: Have been running the JTR radiator with a SBC engine on a test stand. With a Tarus two speed fan on high speed during cool weather in Arizona appears to be just adequate. This does not account for an Air Conditioning Condenser in front of the JTR radiator. Removed the JTR radiator from the run-in stand and tried for fit in the 1971 240Z. With the JTR lower radiator mount in place and trying the radiator for fit, found that the HOOD WILL NOT SHUT. First the radiator cap hit the hood (Too Tall). Secondarily the top of the JTR radiator will interfere with the hood also (Too Tall!). Carefully measured and went shopping on Summit Racing for a higher capacity and dimensionally compatible radiator and found ONE model of Griffin Radiator that fits and has dual row 1 inch tube which should have much more cooling capacity than the JTR radiator.

JonRHD: Go to Ebay and under wiring diagrams for datsuns there is color 11x17" wiring diagrams. These are VERY good and for a '73 it should be a Series 2 240Z. Already have one of these for my '71 240Z Series 1 and it is a very GOOD wiring diagram. Regards, Rolland Sicard Tucson, Arizona

RebekahsZ Connect the two removed Tach sense wires together and the car should start. The Tach is in a series ignition circuit sensing coil current to extract pulses to register RPM. Regards, Rolland Sicard

Mace: Glad that you could share! Going to a big block eh? Remember, cylinder heads, camshaft and fuel air source configurations make all the DIFFERENCE in performance. I have built and all out Small Block Chev 383 stroker, AFR heads, compcams camshaft, all forged bottom end, shaft rockers, solid roller lifters and Electromotive EFI (best I have found) for my 1971 240Z. Regards, Rolland Sicard Tucson, Arizona

I think the MSA position is the Scarab position. Have not yet installed the SBC V8 but have the JTR kit and mounts. The V8 is on the engine run-in stand with a modified Q-jet carb and it runs very well. Put a LOT of money into this engine for 500+ HP and Torque! This is why I want 1 3/4" primary and 3" collector headers. Probably just getting the run-around from Sanderson. Their 1 7/8" block huggers, per their website, are 4" from flange to outer portion of primaries. Just wondering if I can use the 1 7/8" headers with 3" collectors. If one of you fellows with the SBC V8 and JTR kit mounts could measure from cylinder head exhaust port to STOCK steering shaft dimension, then it would be known how much space is available for block hugger headers. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks again.