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Nion: Those are very unique and attractive wheels on your Datsun. Who is the manufacturer and where can they be obtained? Please advise. Thanks.

What is the technical advantage of double overhead cam engines? The newest corvette engine gets very good power with a Gen IV pushrod engine.

I just called Sanderson and talked with Jeremy. He recommended the CC5 headers. Just need to state 1 5/8" primaries and 3" collector size for angle plug heads and they will come up with same that fit the SBC and 240Z.

dr_hunt: I read the link to your post regarding Sanderson Headers. Apparently those that used them mod'd their steering shaft due to custom fabbed engine mounts. Have a JTR mounts for my 240Z and would like NOT to have to mod the steering shaft. Would really like 1 3/4" primary tube headers as the opening area is slightly greater than the ports on my AFR 195 heads with angle plugs. Do you know which Sanderson Headers will fit without 240Z steering shaft mod, JTR engine mounts and AFR 195 angle port heads? The AFR 195 heads have square exhaust ports measuring 1.4 x 1.5". It is not clear from the posting what the appropriate conclusion should be. Please advise. Thanks.

Grumpyvette: Just about finished building a SBC 383 stroker. Read one of your posts with pictures of distributors with O'rings on the bottom two lands. Primed the short block to make certain there would be adequate oil pressure. Noticed that oil was bypassing the priming tool and coming up into the valley. Remembered your post and now I will machine a groove, or two, into those lower lands and put O'rings in the grooves to keep the oil going down the oil galley. Trying to think through a method of drilling a small hole inboard of the O'ring on the bottom land or just not machine the bottom land and hope the distributor and cam gear get oil by the leakage between the distributor and block. Need your thoughts and suggestions on how to accomplish pressure oiling of the cam/distributor gears.

Ron: I use the same process in that Jack Stands and string is positioned parallel with the rocker panels of my 240Z. Then set the steering wheel straight and set the front toe with a tape, measuring from the front of the tire to the rear of the tire to the string on both sides. Also set camber and caster with a Longacre tool. The car handles and tracks very well.

bschiltz: Better take your new heads to a machine shop and have them tear down and check valve clearances! This may save you a lot of headaches.

K & N probably has technically the finest Oil Filter produced for mass use. Royal Purple just came out with their performance Oil Filter. Also Amsoil has good oil filters.

Drax 240Z: The Lincoln PT 185 has been replaced by the 225. I have looked at the Miller Diversion 165 and it is very EASY to set for the material. It also has a current setting knob on the torch which I really like. They can be had for around 1200.00 on Ebay. I have been a Lincoln fan but the Diversion 165 is hard to pass up.

SCLOBERNOCKER47: What he was trying to say is that the cast iron heads flowed air better than the aluminum ones. I have a 1994 Buick Roadmaster with a LT-1 and it has been VERY GOOD. If you chose the LT-1, first purchase the Power Train Control Module (PCM) software for it from Jet Performance. Once you got that you can tickle the programming of the PCM. Next replace the opti-spark distributor on front with a MSD unit. From then, the LT-1 can be stroked and bored to a 383 cu in, purchase AFR-195 aluminum heads, better camshaft and a better intake manifold etc. The LT-1 is EVERY bit as good as a LS-1 series.

tomcraft: First get a 1-piece pan gasket NOT made of cork. Use an engine RTV and glue the one-piece gasket to the pan with the RTV and let it cure. Then fill in the four corners of the front and back of the engine pan rail, front cover, and rear cap, with radiused fillets (points of probable leak) of RTV and let in cure. Suspect that there needs to be NO RTV on the top side of the pan gasket as it mates with clean machined surfaces. If the block pan rails, front cover and rear main cap are not clean, do clean them till clean. Hope the rear seal was not the point of the leak! If so this needs to be replace before closing up the engine and pan. With the pan rails clean, front cover groove and rear main cap clean, put the pan back up and tighten the pan bolts. Before putting the pan back on, clean the pan bolt holes and pan bolts very clean with brake cleaning spray fluid. Install the pan and bolt and tighten. Then, with some miles on it after replacing the pan gasket, go back and remove pan bolts one at a time and put on BLUE thread lock and tighten ONE AT A TIME. This will keep it tight and sealed.

Rat Fink: Best to keep the stock hood and fit the carb and it manifold underneath as a matter of keeping drag to a minimum. Use 3" hose from the front core support to the carb for high velocity air intake. Spectre make parts to do just that. Carb hat, inline filter and scoop in front of the core support. This is the approach that I am going to use. Additionally, I am going to cover up a good portion of the grille and put an air dam also for aero purposes and down force.

Rat Fink: Just went the the (big) SEMA show in Las Vegas. All the goodies are there. Went and looked at Air Flow Research AFR-195 COMPETION heads and they appear to be better than RHS 200 aluminum heads. As far as the ebay 427 it would be beneficial to have SRP Professional Pistons (have LSx style late design metric piston rings) and they are LIGHTER. Scat Crank and Rods are VERY good, AFR-195 COMPETITION heads, pete jackson quiet cam gear drive, ARP Main Studs, Head Studs, Pushrods should be at least 0.080 wall or thicker, 4340 Scat I rods beams are LIGHTER than H beam, coat piston crowns, skirts, rod, mains bearings, camshaft, cylinder head combustion chamber, valves, intake and exhaust ports. This should yield a very healthy engine.

What make it difficult to install a new wiring harness is the switches on the Steering Wheel Stalk. The 280Z and 260Z wiring diagrams are horrendous! These should be completely redrawn into something a LOT MORE USABLE. The 240Z wiring diagram is a lot more readable but lacks the disconnect sockets and plugs. Also consider using American Autowire.

Rat Fink: AFR Aluminum heads CANNOT be beat. I am building a 383 stroker Gen 1 with solid roller cam shaft and lifters and will get very positive valve lift numbers. Coated the pistons, heads, main and rod bearings. Went with steel shaft mounted rockers and will go with .095 wall 5/16ths pushrods. Went with AFR-195 heads. Look at the AFR web site and Dyno sheets. My combination cam and heads should yield 500+ torque and horsepower normally aspirated. Fully forged rotating assembly. 10.0 static compression ratio with coated pistons and not worried about detonation or having to use expensive fuel. Ready for nitrous shot anytime.

jmead: Can you disclose the supplier and makeup of the Li batteries? Please advise. Thanks.

That is a P-51 mustang with a Rolls Royce Griffon Engine and counter rotating props versus the Rolls Royce Merlin engine and standard prop.

HZ Ryder: The Gen II blocks are either LT-1 or LT-4 generation. The LT-1 and LT-4 have different block and head water passages. Their should be some good engine machine shops in the New York state area. Going to a Gen III may likely cost more than staying with Gen 1 assemblies. I went with Gen 1, 383 stroker crank, 6" rods and lightweight forged pistons. Went with Solid Roller Camshaft and am going with Solid Roller Lifters.

Sean: Congrats on it coming together. Looking forward to further reports on the progress. Where can the NGK spark plug wire be purchased in Tucson? Please advise. Thanks.

Doc: Which Sanderson part number headers are you going to use on your Zcar with angle plug heads? I will be ordering some also as I have AFR 195 angle plug heads. Also, can you recommend an oil pan that I can use for Road Racing and my SBC is a late model factory roller tappet block? Corvette Pan? Please advise. Thanks.

Doc: The light weight Scat I beam rods are good for 600hp. The newer cars are going to the metric ring package. The oil ring is not the lower tension ring. Really curious about your no-name aluminum cylinder heads. Have you used them yet? If so what are the results? Very curious how those turn out. They may be good candidates for CNC porting to the latest hi performance configuration much like the AFR heads.

bschiltz: Don't know whether you are on a limited budget or not. I have chosen to go with longer connecting rods and lighter piston with reduced compression height. As for cylinder heads the smaller the chamber the better. Suggest going with what Doc has for aluminum cylinder heads at 64cc per chamber. Went with SRP Professional pistons (4032 forged alloy) which are expensive but very good and THE LIGHTEST. Went with LIGHTER Scat I beam connecting rods. This should allow the engine to spin up faster. Coated the piston crowns and cylinder heads with Ceramic Coating and Moly coating on the skirts. The SRP professional pistons also have thinner metric rings which have less friction in the cylinder bore. Less friction = more horsepower. Coated pistons and cylinder heads = detonation resistant combustion for using less ignition timing lead and using lower octane gasoline for the same amount of power.

77turboz: The gas pedal assy is available on Ebay as item number 150376042767. The TAC module part number 12578953 is available from GMpartsdirect.com for $206.37 and from Pace Performance for $283.91. These items along with the corvette electronic throttle body will work together with the 0411 PCM. Now the question remains, is your harness correct. If need be I can send wiring data on this hookup if you need. If not go back to SSP wiring and have them make it correct.

77turboz: I purchased a Truck PCM, Truck Pedal, Truck TAC module and the original harness for same and can tell you that the 0411 PCM DOES need a TAC module and Pedal Assy for the 2003 corvette. The pedal assy is likely available on Ebay and the TAC module (differs from the truck module) is available at Pace Performance and GMpartsdirect.com. Go to Pace Performance and get the part number of the module and compare prices with GMpartsdirect.com. The corvette pedal harness connects to the corvette TAC module. I had a harness built specifically for this installation and have already gone through some of the head aches.

77turboz: Which part number PCM are you using. From the sounds of it you are using a drive by wire throttle body from a truck? I am using a 0411 PCM as in a 2003 corvette with corvette pedal assy and drive by wire corvette throttle body. Purchased a complete truck harness and (3) truck DBW throttle bodies only to find out that I could not use them with a 0411 PCM. This PCM can be modified to incorporate Roadrunner which allows tuning on the fly with EFI Live hardware/software.