rsicard

Vette Powered: That is a very big condenser for the air conditioning. It appears the temp sender is on the LH side of the engine screwed into the cylinder head. This is where the cooler water is coming up from the block into the cylinder head. Therefore this water has yet to pass through the cylinder head and get heated MORE. Just curious if you tried a somewhat fine spray of garden hose water into the front of the radiator when hot to see if it cooled down and what the results are.

Grumpy: What is a HSR? Which manifold are you using that is modified? I am building a 383 SBC stroker that may have an Edelbrock Pro Flow XT manifold and injectors but have a MAF, Drive By Wire throttle body, TAC module and 0411 PCM modified with Roadrunner EFI system. I have finally decided on solid roller lifters, associated camshaft and shaft rocker arms to make certain that there is ALWAYS good and reliable valve lift. The bottom end is all forged components so a shot of NITROUS should not be much of a problem. Want to start out with a carb and carb manifold. Trying to replicate a 500 HP and 500 Ft/Lb SBC listed on AFR's web site.

Vette Powered: There was a reason for recommending Stewart Components water pump. These are HIGH FLOW water pumps. I had a 1987 Chev Suburban with a 454 engine that always ran hot in the summer. Then I discovered Stewart Components. Purchased one of their water pumps for the 454, installed it and then the higher temp operation was cured. It always ran at the thermostat rated temperature. As for relocating the temp sensor, the HOTEST place is right near the base of the thermostat. Cool water flows from the pump to the block up through the block to and through the cylinder heads to the intake manifold and thermostat the hottest place for water in the engine.

Satan: Thanks for sharing the info with me. Did Mark Williams check the MM stub axle for hardness? If so then I need to go to Mark Williams and have them make similar stub axles and mating flanges with 4140 Cr-Mo. If I send them one of the stub axles can they make more similar? Please advise. Thanks.

Grump: How many and what kind of carbs do you have on the 383 or is it fuel injected? Please advise. Thanks.

Vette Powered: Without taking the suggestions about checking flow and putting a GOOD water pump (http://www.stewartcomponents.com) for good flow and relocating the TEMP SENSOR and using BRAAP suggestions, you are not focusing in on the solution.

Vette Powered: Try the suggestions by BRAAP. The first thing to do is to relocate the temperature sender as suggested THEN proceed with the tests suggested by BRAAP.

280zforme2: Suggest engine books by David Vizard. With these you cannot go wrong.

Vette Powered: The temperature sender should be in the intake manifold next to the thermostat housing. Having it down low in the block is giving false readings lower than where it should be. Is it an electrical (Wire) or mechanical sensor with a semi rigid metal tube running to the gauge? If it is the electrical sender, replace same and mount it in the intake manifold.

jbc3: What are the specs on the camshaft and what is the displacement of the LT1? Sounds very good. Good job on the conversion. Please advise. Thanks.

forchunet: I would like to canvas folks on Hybrid Z forum to know what the demand might be for really good and understandable wiring diagrams with a good parts list. I am studying Microsoft Visio where I am planning to make the diagrams. Would it be better to also make modular inter-mating harnesses for sale? Would like to get yours, and others reading this, opinion on same. Thanks.

Cold Fusion: The most difficult portion of the wiring will be to figure out the turn signal stalk and RH stalk switches. Once these are deciphered and put into understandable form on paper the rest is straight forward.

Satan: Now there is a sturdy Stub Axle. Yet I had the same strength Stub Axle which works with the 300ZXT R200 CLSD which should withstand 700+ Ft/Lb torque. It was supplied by Modern Motorsports.

Vette Powered: Do as suggested and remove the thermostat and run it that way to determine if it runs much cooler. Also when the thermostat is removed, look at the coolant flow at the radiator cap opening to see if there is GOOD flow. Many GM waterpumps are inadequate. Purchase a EMP Stewart water pump as these are always VERY GOOD at flowing coolant. Other than that there may be a restriction somewhere in the cooling system.

Tony: Your point is well taken. After reading the entire thread there seems to be a reluctance to recognize the benefits of cooling the cylinder head directly with cooler fluid.

It is truly FLABERGASTING that members of this forum are just now discovering reverse flow COOLING. This concept is at least 15 years old. The L24, L26 and L28 engines all appear to have cooling system design defects. It is truly amazing to see that now it is beginning to be recognized and something done about it. As John C has pointed out these is something that is considered LIQUID HORSEPOWER. This should be used as a last resort and the design defects should first be overcome.

Nazgule6: You are to be commended for not painting the engine compartment BLACK! I hate a dark engine compartment as it hides oil leaks. Bright engine compartments look VERY GOOD. To add some contrast it would have been nice to paint the engine block with a contrasting color.

M4xwell: I did the same thing but did not order enough to do the whole dash. So I got mixed results. The incandescent lamps are brighter but more prone to failure. Ordered the Festoon for the map and overhead light and they work great. Additionally added encased white lights to the door open lighting circuit to shine on the floor and they work great. Am going to add more of same under the arm rest so that as the door is opened there will be light on the ground at the door opening. I want to brighten things up when opening a door or hatch so that things can be seen.

rustrocket: Was the engine rebuilt or was the oil pan and pickup disturbed? There is a possibility that the pickup tube inside the pan is not seating properly to the block with an "O" ring.

Configuration 3 looks OK.

I like to media blast the cover and paint it a LIGHT color, Gray or Silver so that any leaks show up fast.

The large washer that goes on first should fit the threaded portion and not go beyond same. If you are talking about the outter flange of the large washer it should go toward the rubber cushion. The smaller washer goes under the retaining nut.

Doc Hawk: The LSx T56 has a longer input shaft and possibly a different bell housing than the LT-1 T56.

Lgoodson: Thanks for the response. Not certain just what kind of signal the 280Z tach is looking for. Just know that my 240Z tach has a small loop on the back which I am guessing is a current loop sense of pulses drawn by the distributor. For the tach to sense the pulses the two tach leads need to be in SERIES with either side of the coil wire.

There is a Ford Taurus 2 speed electrical fan that can be used. The one I have has the shroud molded in as part of the fan assembly. Seems to draw a LOT of air at the fan high speed.