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280z"Vador"

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Everything posted by 280z"Vador"

  1. 16x9 in front with the same size of tires (225\50) My first setup was some sportmax 16x8 +0 with 225/50 tires and you just have to roll the inner lip of the stock fender to get rid of the rubbing and you are ready to go
  2. I have 16x10 wheels at rear wrapped with 225/50zr16 if it can help you : It gives a bubble rounded style more than a straight stretched effect in my opinion. I'm not into the stretched look either and I'm happy with the result. Ticker sidewalls of zr tires helps I think
  3. Vador 280z = Z hall of fame.

  4. Thanks for the info.

  5. 3pcs Simmons Racing wheels 16x9 -6mm (front), 16x10 -6mm (rear) with 25mm spacers on all 4 corners. Tires are 225/50/16 on all four corners Thanks for the good words!
  6. Problem Fixed It was an error in my tune causing the AFR map to battle with the VE map even if the open/closed loop was set. The car is now reving perfectly! I'm sooo happy
  7. 11.5 at woot (10psi). My fuel pressure is pumped a bit so I can provide more fuel but I know that 14psi is the top max with like 60psi in the rail. I'm actually not running at 14psi, I'm 10psi for now and I don't want to run 14psi all the time anyway, 10 is enough for having fun 14psi is nice but you know, it's just for some pull. If I'm going to the track, I will run 10psi for sure. GT35 gonna wait until the end of my university When I'll have the time, I'm gonna put my 440cc for sure... I don't like running the injectors on the edge :S
  8. To DL the MSQ: http://www.2shared.com/file/ES05NLDz/15-08-2012.html
  9. Just curious and trying to learn something new. I see some things in your setup that don't seem to fit the average MS II setup and have a few questons. What Nissan mechanical book are you using and what is the number for the maximum that it says you can shave? DATSUN original FSM, Block + head maximum is 0,0079 Is it the stock P90 or P90A head? P90 with a N42 block Have you calculated the compression ratio? No because i'm supposed to be in the "ok" nissan zone but probably the compression is a bit more than stock since the head is shaved but I don't think it can change that much. For the 2-1.5 degree per PSI, I don't think I can use numbers from others anyway, I'm tuning until there is no ping, so if I have a bit more compression, I understand that my timing setup gonna be lower Why are you using a 280Z distributor? Is it locked? Do you still have a CAS somewhere? Locked, I'm using a 280z distributor because my original setup was from a N42/N42 with all the stuff from a L28et. I'm now using a P90 head with my old N42 block. I'm planning to put a 280ZX distributor but I need a turbo shaft (I have the distributor) What, exactly, are the timing numbers - initial, advance curves, etc.? If you're using MS II for timing, timing "by the book" doesn't really mean much, unless you're just talking about the static timing. I was talking about the valve timing, so slot 2 on the cam gear. All my timing is rebuilt (new chain, tensionner, etc) and correctly done. My ignition timing (mechanical) is set to 0 so I can use the megasquirt properly. Plus the basic stuff like type of gas being used and if this is for the track or for street. 91 octan without ethanol. This is my summer car but I'm planning to take it on the track few times Also, seems like if you could supply AFR and timing curves, they would help out to use for feedback. Yes sure, I'm going to post that later I can put my MS file if you want to look at everything too! Like I said, my engine is runing really fine when's cold of when I'm runing. When I stop, it takes few minutes of runing before it is runing fine again. When conditions are perfect, the car is runing pretty well! Like I said, I don't think the valve timing is the problem but I was curious of the symptoms. It's really not that bad, I can pull hard and have fun with my car, and with my actual settings, it doesn't ping, I think it's more of a megasquirt overall setting problem. For the rest, maybe that's just the shitty turbo cam that makes this floating feeling at high RPM[/u][/b] As I said, just trying to learn something myself. You might be focusing on the wrong thing. And I appreciate your help!
  10. Wow thanks a lot! This is exactly what I wanted to ear. I did a dyno run a year ago, my tuning wasn't top notch but I made 230rwhp and 290lbs of torq at 10-11psi. I'm planning putting a A cam this winter anyway. Yea my head is not shaved by a lot, it wasn't for a compression bump but just to put it straight. Thanks for the answer! I will look foward for a leak somewhere. I'm really near to get what I want anyway , just wanted to be sure to put effort on the right things to make it ready for the track Always hard to tell and compare the feeling of an other L28et here in Quebec
  11. Well, the problem (if there's any) is not necessary from there but I just want to clear this point and make sure it is something else. I'm just pretty sure that an L28et can run better... If shims are needed, I will put somes and that's why I want to know the symptoms of a car that barely need shims
  12. I've got my l28et rebuilt 2 years ago and since then, trying to make the engine run like a charm. I've done pretty good improvements with my megasquirt setup since then, and few things on the engine but I'm not feeling that the engine is still ok :S What I know for sure is that the engine ping easily and when I think the ping is gone, I'm just feeling that my timing is too retarded (no top end but good feeling of torq in low rev and full boost, 10psi, near 2800rpm) I need to take off 2 degrees per PSI in my megasquirt if I want to run it "ok". So my question is: My head is shaved to the maximum of what the Datsun mechanical book says. I'm runing no shim on my cam tower. If my valve timing was off just a bit, what would be the symptoms? Since my timing is done by the book, can I try an other slot if I'm slightly off just to see if any improvement? Don't missread, my engine is running fine since those 2 years but I can't get my engine runing fine for a track session for exemple OR just not being affraid to push it at 5500rpm when I want. And I just want to know the symptoms of a cam gear slightly off. My setup: L28et MSII Stock t3 3in downpipe 280z distr. FMIC trying to make it run great a 10psi and 14psi stock 270cc injectors (440cc soon) adjustable FPR Thanks!
  13. Ahah what a small world Yes I did send an e-mail to J-F today and I'm waiting for an answer.
  14. I need a rear transverse bar in good shape for a 280z (r200). Can't afford to buy the masterpiece from AZC to remplace mine Thanks!
  15. Thanks a lot! Thanks Christine for the good words about my car
  16. Hi Pallnet, I did send an e-mail few weeks ago and didn't have answers since then. I'm interested in a 11mm fuel rail but I wanted to know if you are still offering to put a pressure guage on the rail (like few years ago)? If not it's not that bad, I'm still interested hehe! Thanks
  17. Voltron, where did you buy your ZG flares? They look really nice (don't know why but they look rounder than mines) I bought my fender flares from MSA just curious if it's just the photo angle that make them look like that! BTW, your car look really really nice
  18. Hi Tony, thanks for the detailled answer! Well the first tranny that I broke was due to the gears at the front of the tranny, the 2 last was because of the fifth gear... "I don't know what happened with your fifth gear, but the round nut backs off on those allowing failure." Well in one of them, this is actually what was the problem! When I did open the tranny, I saw that the nut was completly lose and unscrewed. On the other one, I just don't know what happened but bearings was in good shape. When I broke a tranny, be sure that I look inside to see what is the problem (It's how we learn anyway) I should be ok with the KA tranny, I don't plan making more than 280whp
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