Daeron

For the record, I used the term RTFM to invoke a little humor, and not to inject anger. I'm trying to help you, or I would save my effort in posting. Like I said, sorry to sound harsh but I was giving advice I deemed would likely help you. No need for you to apologize, I knew I was rubbing you a little rough. My point was one I have repeated a thousand times before: none of us here really have very much to add to the contents of the EFI bible; that book is the root of many individual knowledge bases here (mine included.) The only other helpful resource is experience, and time in understanding the principles taught by "the book." I tell people to read through the first section, then immediately read through it again, then read through each little test procedure for each component, and then re read the first section AGAIN, and then go back and look at their car. That is lesson one, and the rest of the class is simply reading the book repetitively, and tinkering with the car repeatedly. Going back and forth, until you know what to expect, is the best way to learn how to use it. Now, that was more or less my standard "This is how to use the EFI bible" schpiel.. What I am saying to you is, step back, slow down, and re evaluate your problem without assuming anything. Start at square one and begin again, and answers fall out of the sky. Sometimes it takes an arse-wipe, behaving like an arse-wipe, to kick you in the right direction. I AM trying to help you, not berate you to make myself look all big and smart. (Truth of the matter is, I am good at making mistakes. Because of that, I know how mistakes are made, and I am ALSO good at interrupting people who make my mistakes. And THAT is what these forums are all about, right????)

You haven't read through the EFI bibl,e or if you have, then you weren't paying attention to any of the diagnostic or rpeair procedures laid out. You are running absurdly rich, and have super low fuel pressure. You are not running very smoothly, and you HAD uneven compression, which has gone away. On top of all that, you are splattering black sooty fuel nastiness out your exhaust. You have one fuel injector clogged open, hence the low fuel PSI. your engine is getting too much air, and nowhere near enough fuel (except on the one or two cylinders with clogged injectors.) Pull your spark plugs and I bet they don't all look the same. Go RTFM and come back when you can demonstrate an understanding of the concepts involved. Sorry to be harsh about it, but read my sig; (wisdom etc) You keep telling us what the problem is and is not, but you don't what know the problem is or you wouldn't be asking us. If you want the help, it is time to learn how to accept it.

If you take a pair of 6x9s and set them up in boxes (or one box) and then lay them down at the extreme rear of the hatch so that they point along the roofline of the car, you can get a similar effect. I had some $300 Infiniti Kappa 3-ways rolling around in individual boxes for a long time, and when I put stuff underneath the boxes to raise and angle them right, the sound quality just shifted minutely in the car, and I could not tell where the speakers were at all. This was with no front speakers whatsoever, and no amplifier, just a pair of 6x9s in small unvented boxes.

what is this Chevy I6 out of? I am not very familiar with American I6 motors..... because it seems like American companies shy away from ever using them, and American car guys ignore the ones that have been used in the past. Other than the modern 5/6 cylinders used in the colorado pickups, the Jeep 4.0 motors, and the 300CI ford motor, I've hardly ever seen one.

Why not???? If he is into new-porsche-sticker territory, I imagine he is willing to pay handsome premiums for a stellar policy. Most insurance agents LOVE getting policies like this because it is a cash cow, in a car that will likely be treated as a member of the Royal Family (read: high premiums, low odds of having to pay out.. It would just be a mother#$%#$ if you ever had to..)

I know for certain we've got door panels that are "iffy" but the price would reflect that.. I'll look around and ask my uncle what we might have. Anything else needed?

'79 280ZX, blue/black interior, Iron Cross wheels.... I say blue/silver two tone as pictured above. That color scheme fits the model year (with the earlier B pillar design) and the wheels perfectly.. again IMHO.

...But, really, Frank... He is giving us the answer to the question originally posted... why the lack of love?? Widespread "Bliss."

(IMHO) With 280ZXs, the interior color comes into play very very very much. I happen to LOVE an S130 with red interior, red suede seats (82-83 style) and white exterior... but I really can't believe I am saying I like anything with a RED vinyl interior!! Wheels come into play as well. What sort of interior do you have, and what plans do you have with it?

I've been waiting for this for a loooong time...... (erp, that sounds stalker-ish...) The Axis is re-aligning! This is like putting a Subaru engine into an old Volkswagen

Wow.. fifteen, maybe even ten years ago, the consensus would have been to stick it out with the SUs. Alot of people would have opted to swap SUs and the standard hybrid electronic dizzy setup into a 280ZX to get rid of "all that EFI garbage" in your situation. One option that hasn't been mentioned: drop in the L28ET longblock, with the SUs on it, and bring your turbo hardware. Sell the L24 to whomever gets the extra three trannies. You could even do a head swap (bringing along the P90 in the back, of course) if you wanted to keep the cam/compression of the E88 for the purposes of cross country NA SU goodness. Then again. if you don't know your SUs and you DO know your EFI, it IS a different world than it once was... but it seems like asking for a boatload of risk. Go to wal mart or harbor ffreight or some other store and buy a 10-15 dollar 12V tire inflator pump, and a tire plug kit. Screw Fix A Flat (unless ALL ELSE FAILS, it isnt a horrible emergency supply, i just hate to actually use it) A couple of small LED or spotlights, possibly with magnetic bases.. the automotive aisle sort of junk at wal mart.. A light like that can be verrrry useful. You could also buy a booster pack with a light, inflator, etc all built in.

Nice Score!!! How much was it, if you don't mind me asking?? I also have lots of goodies; if you need something, I'm only 70 miles away so we can probably avoid shipping charges.

A: What year/model/transmission B: this should be posted in the appropriate model subforum, either S30 or S130, or possibly Drivetrain, not L6 Engine. Not trying to be a jerk, just pointing out the specific role of each subforum.

BUT!!!!! If it is legitimate, then we would all love to see the proof, and the car!

Still trying to wrap my head around this steering mod... Do you use longer tie rods with this subaru steering knuckle? I still don't understand how you are changing the steering action at all using the same rack, without making the steering effort higher for either: -each added degree total you can turn the wheel or; -each incremental increase in steering quickness you achieve. You need a different, preferably power steering rack, and it either needs to travel further and use stock steering knuckles on the hubs, or it needs to be oomphy enough to push shortened knuckles rather rapidly.

some 260 blocks I have seen seem to come with dished 83mm pistons, some with flat tops. Naturally, you would want the flat-tops rather than the dished.

Wow its kind of odd for Cylinder #1 to go out like that..... #4, #5, and #6 look about par for the course, but usually #1 is okay....

If I am not mistaken, the 280ZX was the car that led Paul to fall in love with the Z-cars in the first place. My uncle says EVERYTHING that you are trying to say about S130s..... but he says it about S30s. Outside of the 6 cylinder motor, and the slightly improved electronics system, my uncle GREATLY prefers the 2000 Roadsters to the Z-cars of ANY stripe. So where does this "anti-new-car" attitude get you in the end? As for an 1850 pound 260Z, show me the fiberglass and the carbon that let you get there......... .....or I will show you MY 1800 pound 240Z, which reached that point via extensive rusting, cutting, and stripping. (Read: its a rotten piece of scrap.) Support that claim or I second the motion of the ban-hammer...

1) Has a "closed mouth" appearance, which is different and has a subjective aesthetic value, but aeroduynamically, the 280ZX is hands-down better off. 2) Simply had more options available to either have/order, or strip off. Frank posted the data to prove it. 3) The first thing you do to ANY Z ca is work on the handling... Nissan ALWAYS gave us a car that had enough engine to start with, but needed some ride and brake tweeks to really make the engine look bad. 4) Completely depends on what you want. S30 fans are usually surprised the first time they see an S130 (or Z31) interior in bl;ack; it looks virtually normal. ..and then there is Rule Number Four:

Unsafe story... I have literally ridden on a boat gas tank in lieu of the passenger's seat (and the clogged/nasty fuel lines and tank) of at LEAST one 240Z. My dad's DD for a while was a 70 that he resurrected, and the first few weeks of him driving the car was using the custom fuel supply setup. I was 12 or 13 at the time... Fun times!!

the original point of the flaps on the bottomside, in front of the wheels, and the low pressure area created, is a great one. However, something makes me NOT want to duct hot engine bay air over my front brakes. Maybe I am nitpicking, but I would prefer to route the hot air back to the fender panels behind the wheel wells. there is plenty of air flowing underneath the car that did NOT pass through the radiator, that still needs to be properly evacuated, is there not? In other words, I am asking a question... isn't there more to worry about than just the hot radiator air? Or is the situation more like, I should just ignore the ~100 degrees of difference in the cooling charge for the 1900 degree brakes????

aw, hell, my high school shop teacher had one of those.....

if you ask me, the spirit of the car was lost on the interior. The short version of the answer is, the 1970-72 (ish) 240Z prized function over form and comfort in nearly every way. I know that is what appeals to me the strongest about the car (although I cannot speak for anyone else.) By the time 79 rolled around, we lazy greedy Americans wanted more cushy comfort from our cars, so you started seeing all sorts of automatic climate controls, and Talking Ladys, and rear wipers (with washer?!?!?) and other sorts of jazzy stuff that is likely to impress the girl from Ridgemont High who works in the diner next door to your Electronics Store (cue the Jackson Brown...) (Image courtesy of the Internet Movie Car Database) (wow that car is pretty) All kidding aside, it has been a good 15 years since I stopped saying (Thats not a Z, thats a ZX!!" with poison dripping from my voice. (It was the first ride in a turbo car that did it actually.. my dad's 83.) there IS no real "good" reason to be biased for one over the other. Like the rules here say, there is no "best."

Check into head bolts for a Subaru EA82 engine; its an 1800cc from the 1980's GL line and the Loyale of the early 90s.

I was trying to avoid sticking my foot in my mouth in case the impressions I had gotten were wrong. My point was that this is something above and beyond parallel twin turbos, or non-linear, "one little up to one big" twin turbos. Its a serial connection between the two.