Daeron

I highly doubt it. Have you looked through the EFI Bible yet? http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=135748&highlight=efi+bible+step

+1. Unless you want to do some work on the crankshaft to extend the stroke just a little bit more than the diesel already is, I would be happy with 3.1 liters rather reach for an overbore to get the extra seventy CCs. Thread title sure caught my eye; hope this build gets finished one of these days, can't wait to see it come together! Good luck and welcome to hybridZ

I apologize, I could have offered a link to the Nissan 4 cyl subforum.. but the lines are fairly clear. Whatever happens it certainly does not belong in the 1970-1978MY S30 Z subforum. And, to be brutally honest, anyone who presumes identity between a 240SX and a 240Z has always struck a nerve with me. The point of my long list of words there was not to browbeat but to make abundantly clear that this wasn't the place he was looking for.

its the misspelling... Just picture the name badge on a Caravan Sport. I don't think it is a mis spelling at all. I think that the second D in Dodge, and the letters in CARAVAN were probably broken off to a point where it looks like GRIVN Something like C R / V N

Forewarned is forearmed: do NOT attempt to drink ANYTHING whie opening this craigslist ad, least of all hot coffee. http://miami.craigslist.org/brw/cto/1191313599.html

OP: I wasn't trying to criticize by any means, just point out the important thing from 1fastz's post: wall thickness. I cannot seem to dig them up right now but we had a thread that had the runner diameter and average outer diameter of many of the different manifold castings, and 39.1mm OD sounds larger than the data that have been accumulated thus far (Someone PLEASE correct me if I am wrong! I couldn't find the right thread!) Not trying to call BS either; if you measure an average OD of 39mm thats freakin great, but I am trying to explain where 1fastz was coming from. 35, 36, 37mm is what I seem to recall the maximum OD of the manifold runners being according to the info posted in that thread. Obviously it was by no means complete or independently verified.. but you see what I am getting at? It seems your manifold is larger than most.

Holy cow, I just went digging for this thread on a search for another thread, and suddenly realized that you had updated it this morning and I could have found it simply by going to my subscriptions list..... D'oh!!

"Easy outs" and other various screw and bolt extractors are FAR FAR more likely to work and NOT snap off into the broken bolt (thusly creating a panic and a much larger pain in your tail) WHEN USED ON A BOLT THAT WAS BROKEN WHILE TIGHTENING IT. Sorry to yell, but I wanted to put emphasis on that; Bolts which have totally frozen threads because of rust/overtorque/whatever it was but it is sitting there mocking you welded together are NOT good candidates for easy outs because they are VERY likely to simply break the easy out. I am just really starting to pick this up from a couple of trusted sources and really nodding my head at it, because I have AVOIDED breaking easy outs in nasty stuck bolts before. Not sure if I have ever actually done it or not, but I know I;ve seen it happen and developed a paranoia long ago. So, as a rule of thumb, if you are using a screw extractor on a rusted/seized bolt or stud that you are trying to DIS assemble, you should basically walk into the affair ANTICIPATING upon breaking it, because it is VERY easy to do so. History is replete with us jerks who will tell you all about the godawful time we had when it happened to us

It sounds to me like the overall point 1fastz was trying to make is a warning: if you do indeed have a 35mm diameter ball bearing that hass full clearance to run through those runners, Beware!! Our best data indicates that you may have hogged your runners out to 1mm or less in wall thickness! And then there was a wee bit of tonyd's acerbic commentary on both sides after that. But the point should not be missed; it is one of the first things I thought upon reading this thread through the first time myself. If you ask me, a 35mm intake runner on an L28ET is a nice "Anti-reversionary step"

Somehow I find that simply hysterical.... "Oh, hey, look!!! A New valve cover gasket!! Hell Yah!!" Is that even after changing the injector wiring?

absolutely, categorically, wholly and completely wrong place for you, bud... about the only 240SX information you will find here is either A: People swapping a KA24 into their 240Z or B: People swapping an L28(ET), VG30E(T), VG30DE(TT) or VQ engine into their 240SX. this is HybridZ, not HybridNissan or anything else; not trying to be rude but silvia chassis are not part of our deal here. This thread will probably be chucked into the toolshed as soon as a moderator sees it.

Squeaky Wheel often gets greased... posting up in your fairly popular build thread that homeboy "screwed you out of $1500" often gets results Good luck wit yer parts!!!

Please edit that, pressing the "Enter" key about twenty times to put spaces between your thoughts. That is a tough read. Beyond that, I would recommend you find the FSM for your charging and tach problems, and go here http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=135748&highlight=efi+bible+step to learn how the EFI works so you can fix the rich issue.

bah, specific numbers change hourly. I wouldn't consider a gap of 6-7 psi to be that significant; roughly 3% isn't that big a deal.

click the link I posted to before; it contains all the information needed to fully understand the EFI system on the L28E.

That, and I STILL had to trash my front cowl piece to get my hood open. Good luck, and let us know how you manage to solve this.

"regular compression check" == Hot engine, pull all six spark plugs, put the tester in one cylinder at a time. FULL THROTTLE PEDAL, Fully charged battery, hit the starter until the cylinder dead-heads; repeat measurement three times per cylinder (or more if you get wildly erroneous results.) Take average values of each cylinder (discarding any wildly inappropriate numbers.) You are certainly running pig-rich, so your mixtures can be dialed back a hair, but listen to jmortensen on the nozzles.

^-- What he said. Also, http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=135748&highlight=efi+bible+step

I wasn't going to argue these points for you, but since you brought up the "heatsink over heat soak" point I will add this.. The heat soak issue typically is not a problem with the car running; its that 5-10 mi nute run into the store that brings the problem out. In THAT situation, I would see the shroud as more of a heat sink than a heat soak. To cause a problem, you would need a heat trap or heat soak that was specifically designed to grab the heat and pump it into the fuel lines.. something like fins on each injector holder reaching down towards the source of heat, directly connected to fuel plumbing. What I am saying is, yes, while the engine is running that shroud is likely to absorb a great deal of heat from the engine and exhaust, but none of it is really going down (a negligible bit conducted through the metal posts anyhow) and then once the engine is shut off, it gathers no more heat than the fuel rail would naturally given its position. I am thinking the shroud is probably a workable feature; and as was said before, if it needs it, direct cooling air right through that mimized airspace and you are definitely set to go! Time will tell, I guess.

A shroud like that, combined with the 280ZX style injector fan would make TONS O sense. The shroud/shield would serve as a duct to direct airflow exactly where it was needed and nowhere else.

before you go throwing money at parts, do some electrical testing. http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=135748&highlight=efi+bible+step There are three temperature-related sensors on the car. The thermotime sensor is one; the CTS is another, and there is a sending unit for the gauge. The CTS is the two wire sensor, and it is used for the ECU to change the mixture. The one wire sensor is the gauge sender unit. The reason I suggest doing testing before buying parts is, the system is verrrry simple. It can either run right, run rich, or run lean. Sounds to me like you are running rich. CTS and thermotime sensor are good starting points, but TPS adjustment is a freebie and the AFM setting needs to be right. Both of these are higher-priority inputs than the coolant temp, so with bad TPS setting and a good CTS, you would run crappier than you would with proper TPS setting and a horrible CTS.

Okay gang, so my brother, our Dad and I got a chance to meet Derek and see his car earlier this evening. First off, his car is a beautiful red 73 240 that he has owned since 1980 and he has made it into his ideal Grand Touring car; Not a racecar but a comfy street machine, and its just gorgeous. It isn't mint or anything like that, but the right details are clean and crisp and its just an ideal Z. Fullblown racecars, turbo swaps are great, but we really don't see enough S30 Zcars that are just cars down here, unless they're junkers. (Like MY car was, when it was still registered!) Second off, regarding the Manifold... Music. Symphony in the key of Z. Valvetrain harmony combined with intake charge melody, with the injectors on the skins keepin' time. The Allodyne finish (or however it is spelled) REALLY looks just like it does in the photos. In the end its not that far from a cast magnesium look on the valve cover and the manifold. The butterfly linkages are the neatest part.. the six air horns are all on different angles from the block, in all three planes, so each connection from one butterfly to the next is just a little bit different. As a result, when they all move back and forth, instead of forming parts of two parallel lines, each individual piece of hex rod moves in it's own little pathway that is INCREDIBLY hard to describe. The effect is very subtle.. VERY subtle but it looks almost... organic. and that about says it all!!

gimme a manifold casting that you are using, I will see what ive got. I may have a complete manifold I could ship you for a reasonable price, I am in the process of stripping down and scrapping a bunch of EGR intakes from L28Es. Some pics would be nice too. You know, whatever, if you need bits and pieces, some video of one of these guys, I'm dismantling a pile of scrap. Were I in your shoes, a nice, complete (even if it IS junkyard quality) "example piece" to go by would be a boon; we would have to see what shipping would cost, but all I would get out of the manifold is six questionable injectors, MAYBE some other ancillaries (got ALOT of manifolds, heh.. lots of that stuff getting pitched out of hand) and then the cost of aluminum scrap, so i think 30 bucks plus actual shipping might be doable for a complete mani, If we have it.

Could be a dropped valve, pull the valve cover and check things out. honestly, it could be VERY poorly asjuted valves. Get a big screwdriver, stick the handle against your ear, and put the tip against various parts of the motor, at each cylinder at various heights, head, block, etc, and try to localize the noise. That will help you rule things out. It COULD be: crankshaft bearing (main or rod); rod problem; piston problem; valve/valvetrain problem; other (sorry, I am no Encyclopedia Brown, i just have some ideas to help you) Try to rule out certain regions by localizing the sound. Try disabling each cylinder one at a time while it is running. If you pull plugwire on say, cyl 3 and the knock goes away, chances are its a rod bearing on that cylinder. If you hear loud noise at that point also, then bingo. More data is required to help diagnose. Check the Similar Threads feature at the bottom of the page, and then do the same on any you click to, and read what other people have had happen and what theyve been told to do. The more you can tell us the better.

Its all about area under the torque curve... once the car gets above about 3,000 RPM, the torque starts coming on and its almost like barking second in an aggressive lightweight 240 with triples. Then by about 3500-4K its just instant ON from there on out, and it doesn't peter off at the top end. Have you ever driven a stock 280ZX turbo? The power it puts onto the road generates about 2,000 lb-ft of fun, however much the horsepower actually comes out to. BTW, if you look at the torque curve from about 3.5K on, it ALMOST resembles a profile lines of a s30/s130 Z car!!