Daeron

heh, I was actually being sarcastic, I thought the "elite JDM turbo drift0rrrrr" might make it clearer...

THAT would make the difference!!! Thank you for clearing that up, I was scratching my head over how this could ever work... it seemed like the OP was completely misunderstanding what he was saying, but I never caught the fact of the extension bar being between ratchet head and socket!

Aww, crap, one of them long deliveries all the way to the north end.. them folks never know how to tip, the jerks

Got my bumper bar and miscellaneous bolts in today. I went by a hardware store trying to get some stainless fasteners.. I need two 12mmx1.25 thread locknuts, four lockwashers that same diameter, and four washers that same diameter. I would prefer to get stainless for anyhting possible, because these bits are all going onto the front subframe crossmember, and the four bolts are in GREAT shape but they had no lockwashers and their washers are rusted nasty; the Nylock nuts from the radius rods aren't so bad, but they are nylocks, so they need to be replaced and stainless would be nice. I got stymied at the store I went to; no locknuts in the right thread, no stainless nuts, I am not loc-titing a non stainless nut onto an already rusty radius rod end. I will figure that out tomorrow. My big issue at this juncture is minor front clip damage from the unknown accident. Basically the sheetmetal that holds the hood latch and driver headlight/corner light all into place needs to be tweaked ever so slightly. There is a super talented body/frame guy who rents space in the same shop complex as us; he has given me some pointers and is letting me use his pogo stick (super-cool tool for levering bent metal back into place) but I must confess, the sheer spacial perception needed for this kind of work is beyond me I think. When I look at the slightly bent metal, I can only analyze a single line at a time; not only can I not see in THREE dimensions, I can't visualize a "departure from nominal" analysis in TWO dimensions at once, so it just isn't my forte. Dennis (the body guy next door) has told me that all I need to do is basically define a set of points, and measure from point to point on both my car (the minor wreck) and my brothers car and get the distances to match... but that seems like a daunting task!! I don't know, tomorrow the procrastination must end, and the sheetmetal must bend, come hell or high water!!! I painted and installed the trim strip that goes along the top of the hatch today; the one I have is in super-crappy condition, but at least now its a smooth, satin black and doesn't draw TOO much attention to itself. Also will have some updated pics tomorrow.. ALOT of subtle cleanup in the engine bay (painted crossmember, replaced rusted battery tray and treated rust/painted engine bay in that area, algae/scum removal in areas I hadn't gotten yet, some rubber and plastic dressing) and the front bumper coming in and getting mounted significantly alter the appearance of the car, even though I have the radiator and the driver headlight out. So tomorrow I need to try and find my hardware, but I will just install using the crappy stuff I have for now and replace that later if needs be. Bullet list O' stuff to install in motion towards final assembly: *frame X-member *battery with re-conned hold-down *radiator/fan assy *driver headlight At this point, I need to get my bending taken care of (actually the radiator will likely wait until after the bending) because the following need to be lined up properly at this point in assembly: front of fender, hood, hood latch support, bumper cover, corner marker and headlight. Once that front Eyesocket is bent into place, I get to find a way to re-use my damaged bumper cover. I got to looking at it in detail today for the first time with a good bumper on the car in front of me, so I can see how it all goes together. I can re use my bumper cover.... but I think that in the fairly near future I am going to be buying a new/junkyard/online bumper cover for the car. There are many little mounting tabs with holes in them on the plastic bumper cover. The holes are for screws to pass through and thence into thread onto the bar. Most of them are either ripped, or severely distorted... too many to ever make this bumper sit straight and hold tight again. Maybe a Pro could make it look B to B+, but I wonder if I'll get up to C territory with it; we shall see. My brother prefers the newer style front cover anyhow; maybe he would re-use mine on his car, who knows. Will update my project thread with lots of pretty pics, and this thread with a brief rundown of the day, tomorrow night.

dude just last week someone siphoned all the royal purple out of my elite JDM turbo drift0rrrrrrrr... Grand Larceny of Petroleum Product FTL!

I've browsed the site before (many many times, zhome is one of the oldest dat-spots on the 'net) but I went ahead and hunted down the data you were referring to, just because I wasn't 100% clear on it myself. from http://www2.zhome.com:81/History/1970or1971.html FWIW. No data here to contradict that quoted statement!

My brother's CRX has been switched over to one wiper, and it sits p at rest like the Japanese S30 in the above video. The functionality is poor; First off, you are looking through the corner of the "pie slice" (which isn't so bad, the vision isn't as tucked into a corner as it might sound.) The really bad part is, all of your straight ahead window of view is contained within maybe 1/4 of the motion of the wiper. So, say on low speed it takes a full second to go from full down through the cycle to full down. You get .375 seconds of mud in your face, .25 seconds of clarity, then .75 mud, .25 clear. with dual wipers, the driver's window is wiped for an instant in the middle of each cycle, so its more like, .25 clear, .25 mud, .25 clear, .25 mud. That might not SOUND so bad, but when you are driving in pouring rain, cursing any windshield wiper that isn't powered by a five horse briggs and stratton (our S30s don't always have the strongest wiper motors, or even the strongest wiring and electrical system to support fancy nice upgrades.) Trust me when I say that the timing issue can be alot more frustrating than it seems at first.

(I have lots of ideas, and I learned a long time ago that a million bad ideas that get shot down are ten times better than one good idea that gets shut up) Idea: grind the entire section deep just a *tiny* bit (what one might call a c^&t hair) too deep with a verrrrrry gradual slope...

Hope this doesn't offend, but all this needs is something covering that big JDM on the intercooler:) It is just *perfect* for a 280ZXT, with the round metal P/S fluid reservoir and all.. a 280ZX turbo *should* in my mind, have a somewhat cluttered engine bay.. at least until it has left stock fuel management far behind. I say "somewhat cluttered" relative to some of the ultra-clean tuck jobs pictured in this thread; you have gotten rid of just enough.

*eRP!* Yesh, its *eRP!* willL!! EDIT: For the thinker out there, what REALLY makes this funny isn't the simple drunken humour, its the fact that the joke sets one to giggling......... giggle, laugh, small shot.. nitrous.. ah-HAH, now you see... THAT is comedy.

half a dozen different heads in the US market alone for the L6 motor, ONE iteration of one of those heads uses hydraulic lifters. I do not know if any other motor happened to use the same HLAs as the P90A did, but common knowledge is they are NLA. By that I mean only that I have heard NLA and nothing else; if you find "new" ones they are new old stock. +1 The "conversion" is super simple, and H-Z member bigphil did a great youtube video with his kids on how to convert from hydro to solid. IMHO half of the sound of the L6 is the solid valvetrain noise

awesome write up, good pictures for comparison, I hope that anybody whose pictures you used anonymously doesn't mind. Really, having read these things many many times, I have to say plain and simple: the pictures tell the story. At least to those of us who are coming from Amateurville.

by not fully disengaging the clutch disc and never actually allowing the clutch to let go when you try to shift.

Yah, keep it up!! I have a pile of EFI manifolds laying around, Would the piece you need work if pulled from a stock EFI TB? All of these TBs are non turbo (I am fairly certain, anyhow) so that is fairly important. If a turbo TB is needed dig up the casting numbers of which intakes were on the turbo cars for me and I will check.

ANY DOUBT on the soft rubber lines, just replace them.

Is that motor pictured immediately above mounted in the standard spot, or is it set back some??

My dad had a '70 that was 10,xxx, I wanna say 10,3 or 10,6 but thats little more than a guess.

No, not the SUPER cheap blue can ColorPlace stuff; that I wouldn't trust for anything but temporary marking. That paint is made for surveyors and construction workers etc (and graffiti artists) not for metal protection. I am talking about ColorPlace Metal Enamel, it comes in a white can and says "warranteed to stop rust for two years" and it costs $3 a can.

Nice!! Any pictures or concept sketches of this manifold design? I like the idea, sounds almost like taking a four barrel manifold and melting it to rotate the carb flange and make it point towards the fenderwell...

Refresh me on the "coolant issue;" I got to a point where I was regularly recommending to people that they run a good potent block flush, and then after draining it pull each heater core hose and blast a garden hose through the heater core both ways. Remember, this is AFTER it gets flushed with chemicals, but before you refill with water and run, so it helps get alot of schmutz out of the heater core; mine was anemic before I did that (not frequently used in SoFla) and worked great afterwards. what, pray tell, does "ostrage" mean?

Some advice.. I've been working on a 91 CRX and I have lots of metal pieces that need to be cleaned up and made black again. I was in Wal-Mart and got a can of ColorPlace Satin Black rustoleum knockoff paint. It worked GREAT, covered well, sprayed evenly and cleanly, and lasted a surprising long time. (I tend to think a can of spray paint that lasts a while means that a high percentage of the paint goes on surface rather than overspray) I was painting the front frame crossmember yesterday and ran out; went by WalMart today to get another can, and they didn;t have it in Satin!! I got Rustoleum brand paint and it SUCKS. WalMart Cheap Brand FTMFW!!! Of course, for something like an exterior panel rustoleum/rattlecan is a temporary solution; I was using it for frame members, battery hold downs, tow hooks, bolt heads, etc. Engine bay hardware.

If you are going to modify the car and have turbocharging in mind, a custom front clip will allow you to build with lots of big air pipes in mind. The stock front wall is not incredibly easy to negotiate. If you have a good reason to rip it out and build fresh, then you can set up mounting points for say, a radiator from a Fox body (read: super common cheap performance radiator) and make it easier to duct in all airflow entering the front mouth opening of the car to the radiator so none leaks past (this is a common cause of over-temp situations in S30 Zs; the big grille lets in so much air that the rad can't let it flow through very easily, and the air finds other pathways so the air pressure BEHIND the radiator is not that much lower than the air pressure in front; therefore, very little flow through the radiator) This car is your car; fix it however you want. If you have the tools, supplies, and ingenuity to rip it out and do it better, then do so.

Nice, keep us posted! Have you decided what kind of charger and manifold you want to run with it yet?

The longblock is a JDM "D15B" with no fourth digit, which I have gathered indicates basically a d15b2, but its an HF with stock intake, fuel rail and computer. The end result is yes, a torquey beast. I went into it at length in the long winded project thread, but its got a motor trying to breathe through a relatively restrictive intake, so the velocity achieved is impressive. The tradeoff is, no room for high RPM airflow, but the HF EFI system cuts the fuel at 5500 RPM anyhow, so its no loss. With a 2.9x:1 final diff and two overdrive gears, the original engine was built to be all in at two grand. My brother has a "mini-me" swapped '88 HF that I have been delivering in for the last three months. Its great; 35 mpg, 1830 pounds as is with no driver (gutted interior, recaro seat and roll bar) and in the end I could almost say it hangs with 350Zs and C4 corvettes off the line... It certainly makes them take me seriously (the guy in the 'vette was PISSED; mullet-man, heh) Looking at my options... we just *happen* to have an intercooler of modest dimension with 2 or 2 1/4 inch pipes... and apparently the stock HF exhaust manifold is stupid easy to bolt a T25 flange turbo onto... and this ECU can be chipped and tuned from what I understand??? so while I COULD simply upgrade to an SI intake and ECU..... I think if I do ANYTHING it would be a chip, a flange adapter and turbo, piping and maybe if needed, injectors. Stick with the stock tiny inlet manifold and maybe hog it out a tad along the last 25-40mm of the track.... I don't know. I have had the car for two months now and things are finally falling close enough together for me to be getting psyched and start having ideas about the future. the price of a snail, flange, tubing, and a chip is a very very very cheap turbo upgrade, and if I can pull 100-125 (+?) combined hp/tq that easily... its a no brainer. *whistles*and*makes*BOV*sounds* Lookit me I'm a FANBOY!!!! If I were to go crazy with a swap, it would be fivespeed legacy EJ22, turbo to come. Top mount the intercooler, top mount the RADIATOR if needs be (angle it so that the top tank is above the back cylinder and the lower tank is against the firewall, same with IC) and go AWD. Even NA the EJ22 was about 140 horse and 130 torque. Braap: I would be willing to go EA82 with it and turbo one of them just for ease, but we both know that little antique is best left as is. How is yours, BTW? The hood I bought was already missing the front H logo. The only two IDs on it are the H in the hatch glass (can't get rid of that one, maybe a sticker over it?) and HONDA on the rear driver side back trim glass. That will go as soon as I take my time with some gentle solvent and a razor. Query: Valve cover is all funk nastified. Obviously it needs an intense trip to the Spa. (I am good at cleaning and reconning aluminum and metal parts like this; I like it) I am pretty sure I want to keep it black and sand off the letters to make it look essentially like stock in the end, but I am NOT set on going black. Any ideas are welcome, but red is out of the question. The other question is one of texture. I really don't think I wanna go gloss or satin finish (satin has been my preferred black finish thus far in the restore) but I don't really like the Krylon krinkle stuff that comes out looking like an old school kickball.. I was thinking maybe something like a trunk lining type flecking texture to just give it an even "stucco" type finish of a super fine grain, a bit more like stock than the krylon stuff... To be honest, I have seen three or four Z valve covers done with the Krylon stuff and it seems like it always gets one real flaw or two in every coat. A simple flecking wouldn't be so bad, and I can do a light base coat a filler base coat, both in a lighter color, and then after that cures for a day or two I can paint it with my preferred black and clear finish.... What to do?? Opinions, thoughts, and ideas please, thank you.

So, since I finally started a project thread (and couldn't bear to do it on a Honda forum) I need to start a thread here for feedback and discussion At the beginning of November, the automatic transmission on my beloved old Subaru GL-10 threw out second gear. "We LIKE lugging through first only to lug through third!" the pistons said. Their connecting rods readily agreed, and so since it was obvious that my boxer had finally gone senile... I took the old girl out behind the shed and fed her a lunch of lead. My brother graciously offered to let me drive HIS 88 CRX for work purposes until I got my own ride; Times are Tough for an undereducated, over-knowledged Pizza guy. So fast forward to the week before Christmas, and my dad wakes me up after about four hours sleep, at ten AM on a Saturday morning. (I close Friday nights; I am at WORK until 2 AM so no guff for being up till 6.) Blah blah, CRX, stick shift, $500, posted twenty minutes ago. I call the guy, find out it needs a windshield and a hatch and a radiator... I am thinking "feh. Coffeeeeee..." An hour later my brother woke up and came over; his reaction was "Lets go look at the car NOW. Do you have money? bring it with you." So we went. The rest of the tale can be found here, but the short version is as follows: I put a new radiator in it, bought a pair of headlight assemblies from some guy online, got a hood and a hatch from the junkyard and painted the inner panels with pep-boys rattlecan. I am working on straightening out the front clip damage (NOTHING significant, just a bunch of mounting points for radiator etc.) and painting the battery tray area. An online Honda parts store is supposed to be shipping me a bumper bar and a few miscellaneous items, and after that I meet with a friend with HVLP and a spray booth, get the paint matched, and shoot the exterior of the hood, hatch, and fender. So, let me know what you think! This is a DD/Pizzamobile; my brothers CRX is quick and fun, this car is torquey and will be a blast but isn't going to surprise any 350Zs or C4 corvettes. (My brothers' DOES. 1.5 liter, NA) I may go for a bit more pep later on (the intake and computer in the car are incredibly restrictive, but they impart high velocity to the intake charge and thats where alot of torque comes from) but for now I am just doing a stock restoration.