Daeron
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Posts posted by Daeron
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Whats so bad about the stock tail-lights? Ya, the skyline ones are cool, but they only look good on the skylines... If you stick them on your Z its gunna look fake. I mean.... It means its a wanna-be. If I were u guys, stick with the stocks and get that one guy to custom LED the whole thing, then it will look bad-ass. =)
I have to say I agree with SkyBlue here, I infinitely prefer the euro 240 tail lights to any others on the S30.. with euro 280 being a second. Stock is almost as good. However, I understand the desire for hybridization....
I think that there may be something of an "anti-Corvette" sub-type of Z owner (maybe something of an "Anti-Porsche" sub-type as well, but that is tangential to this topic) and that for those of us who see our Zs as better versions of those cars, the concept of the roundish tail lights is right out.. At the very least, there is a part of ME that is this "anti-vette" guy who thinks just that: the round tail lights look too much like a corvette and not enough like a Z.
Just trying to explain the anti-hybrid sentiment shown in this facet... OEM tail lights all the way.
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The only difference is that S130's after 81 had an O2 sensor.
Turbos had some more vacuum lines to operate some vaccum operated valves, but in Europe they had the same diagram as above! No O2 feedback, just plain programmed fueling.
People want to make it much harder than what it really is, and even to this day, when you distill it the componenets are still the same, even for standalones. if you understand the original Bosch System in the photo, you can understand them all, as the inputs don't change, only the way they process some of the signals (MAP versus AFM versus MAF for example. All do the same thing, just in a different way...)
That is the truest post i think I have ever read of TonyD's.. It is all only complex while you continue to look at it as one big "thing;" break it down into sub-systems and its all wonderfully simplified. That is why repair manuals are written the way they are; not many of them are trying to go to the effort of educating you, though, so the end effect is not that of teaching you how the car works, it is that of helping you get it running again.
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Turn signal lever won't stay engaged
There, now theres a link to that thread in the sticky.
Productive couple of photos, there! thanks!
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uhm... if the timing chain jumped a tooth, then changing the spark plug wires would NOT fix it... the timing chain controls valve timing, and I may be wrong but I thought that the distributor was driven directly off the crankshaft?
Something more is up in the air here. I don't REALLY know enough to tell you what, but I can tell that things aren't adding up right in this equation...
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Wow, my first sticky....thanks alot guys !
Hey Daeron, my signals were weak and intermittent also. After cleaning the hazard switch and the turn signal switch, my signals work great. I mentioned how I cleaned the hazard switch, but not the turn signal....and I'm pretty sure these are the only 2 moveable contacts in the system. If you look at the last picture in my original post you can see 2 phillips head screws (one above and one below the 3 wires). Remove those 2 screws and the brownish colored plate will come off. Inside there is a U-shaped contact that fits up inside the turn lever. Mine was so gunked-up that it didn't even fall out, but be looking for it. I pulled the U-shaped contact out and cleaned it, along with the contacts on the inside part of the brown plate. It's sort of hard to explain but makes perfect sense once you take the brown plate off. Basically one leg of the U-shaped contact sits between the green wire and the white/red wire, and the other leg sits between the green wire and white/black wire. When you move the turn lever up it connects the green wire and white/red wire (down connects the green wire and the white/black wire). It was not hard at all though.......the hardest part was the time it takes to get to the turn signal assembly, and get it removed.
I was never very enthusiastic about trying ti fix the turn signals.. most of my "trying" consisted of blindly spraying PB/WD-40/electrical cleaner into the mechanism of the switch, and rummaging around in my uncles parts looking at other turn signal switches and theorizing plugging them into my car to see if it would work.
BUT, I have examined enough switches, and enough mechanisms, that I really only even skimmed what you said. As soon as I went and looked at the part you mentioned in the photograph, I understood exactly what would be found under there and knew you were right on... Somehow looking at that bit before didnt quite click in my head.. I was stuck on the concept that maybe the large copper spring pieces that touch the base.. kind of making a C shape around the steering column.. I had thought that THOSE were the contact points for some reason (this was some time ago, when I was still occassionally looking at this problem.. I have learned a great deal and had alot more electrical experience since this time period
)Anyhow, thanks for the enlightenment!
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check the TPS contacts for water.. in fact, check over all the FI sensors and plugs, unplug them all, and blow the water that you didn't realize was in them out. chances are that alone will do your trick; I have been there and done that on my 75 many times. If that doesnt help, go to http://www.atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/EFI&fuel.htm that link and download the "EFI Bible" and read it, use it to walk yourself through a systematic test of the components.
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You didn't mention the fuel pump.. and your 240 tanks should be usable, IIRC people usually swap the supply and return lines or something?
And I would also imagine that you would want to lift the ignition system (coil/dizzy/etc) from the FI vehicle as well...
Go to carfiche.com or carfiche.org (i forget which) and look for a 280Z or 280ZX FSM to download, and read up on the FI and ignition chapters.. and go to blues tech tips page and download the "FI Bible" and read that, too. Read the bible first, it is easier to understand and will help you understand the more integrated picture that is in the FSM.
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I have been browsing and reading for some time now, and have yet to stumble across this information. I motion for sticky status, this was an excellent post. Many thanks; this has stumped both my father and I on two different vehicles. He got his figured out, (although I do not know if it is "right") but my signals have never REALLY worked.. (once in a GREAT while, dimly, and slowly..)
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how about running a dedicated lpg engine (13+ compression) and using a small fueltank with racegas. Then you would have the benifits of the cheap lpg, and you would still be able to use the racegas as a decent backup system.
Last month I am helped a friend of mine to convert his 280zx to megasquirt (it is up and running fine). After this summer he is going to convert it to lpg vapour injection. He has a 70 liter ringtank in the spare tire location. I am very interested to see how the car will run on megasquirt and lpg. I am thinking of converting my lpg converter system in my datsun c31 laurel to injection too. It's always nice if someone else pays your tuition fee.
.note: LPG stand for liquified petroleum gas. It is not straight propane. It is a mixture of propane and butane. The mixture is adjusted for winter/summer temperatures. (maybe this information is europe specific but I don't think so).
first paragraph, good idea for a gasoline "backup" but race fuel is roughly as difficult, or more difficult, to find than LPG, at least here.
Second paragraph, by vapour injection you mean, a multi point injection system very similar to the standard gasoline FI type, correct? If so, then that is exactly what I am wanting to do, great to hear I will not be totally blazing my own trail.
Third paragraph, I believe that the amount of butane mixed with the propane varies by locale; my understanding is that its relatively "dirty" so to speak in Australia, but living in south Florida (tropical weather year round) I am not too concerned about a "wintertime" mixture; I don't anticipate any road trips in this vehicle outside of tropical regions, so personally I am not concerned about that. However, it is an excellent point to consider when deciding just how high to take your compression ratio.
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78 280z Reporting for coolness, Sir!
Currently stock, in pretty good shape, with about 90k on the clock.
In process of replacing engine, will turbo when funds allow. (and when my other projects are done :] )
That is one of the most Stunning photos of a Z I have ever seen.
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75 280, unknown mileage.. speedo cable broken, odo reads 15K, I estimate I've put 60-85K on it myself with the broken cable.. mostly white, needs attention, too ashamed to go uncover it to take photos to post because I have owned her since july of 2000 and haven't been able to do SQUAT with her. DD for almost five years, now awaiting income stability and spa treatment.
meanwhile, I am in subaru Purgatory.. 87 GL-10, FWD, 1.8l, 91hp, 3 speed automatic:cry2:
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http://www.propanecarbs.com/impco/125carburetor.html
http://www.eere.energy.gov/afdc/progs/res_guide.cgi?LPGRG
http://www.lngplants.com/carbturbo.htm
And this one is interesting since it lists current Nissan Products for Conversion:
http://www.vags.net.au/LPG-product-range.htm
http://www.eere.energy.gov/afdc/pdfs/conversion.pdf
http://www.primaryinfo.com/cngkits.htm
http://www.impco.co.jp/index_e.htm
http://www.impco-beru.nl/pdf/Leaflet%20CNG-1.pdf
And if you look at #7 on this list, you will find the company where I formerly worked, actually I did work at #8 as well... They are now in Cerritos apparently.
http://www.google.com/Top/Science/Technology/Energy/Transportation/Natural_Gas_Vehicles/
"Google Is Your Friend"---you just need to know what to look for!!! LOL
I have tried every string I could think of, I was grasping at straws and you threw me a few. Thanks, man
I cant STOP thinking about a 10:1 turbo engine! I want to build my car a step at a time, and my first thoughts are, build engine, 88mm pistons, shaved p-90, flat tops, 10:1 compression.. megaquirt, and EFI.. and then, LPG turbo conversion. possibly TT, but THAT depends on what i do for an intake manifold... but thats all blah blah.
If only I had the money to DO and not just THINK..
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Maybe I am displaying my ignorance (I cannot recall exactly what the entire float assembly looks like) but couldnt you just bend an arm to get something of a calibration? You would just need to find a way to maybe extend the arm, and give it a slightly different angle..? I don't know, its a thought.
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Phiz!! Great to see you over here! Even though the R200 is a bit beefier than our soobs strictly NEED, it might still be attractive to the guys who want to run 'em in RWD only; and using the Z community to help get together a group buy to drive down prices might be worth it.
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I am sorry I am dozing about posting any links up here, I'm gonna have to go through and find what I have read again the hard way because I appear to have failed to bookmark any of it.
Most of what I have found has been merely information convincing me that it cannot be incredibly difficult to do; as I believe I said above, the LPG vehicle has been a dream of mine since I was 13 or 14.. so roughly half my life at this point. Honestly, I had never considered a PERFORMANCE engine running propane until very recently, when I learned the anti-detonation qualities of the stuff.. TeamNissan, please forward me anything your research turns up; I would LOVE to find a book somewhere, or ANYTHING that would help educate me furhter in this field. Unfortunately, most web links I was able to find were predominantly trying to sell me packages for specific vehicles, most of which weren't automobiles...
I am mind-bogglingly interested in the concept of a turbocharged LPG or CNG (LPG would be preferable to me, for fueling convenience purposes only) L-powered Z... it is going to be such a long time before i get to the engine on my car that I have ALL the time in the world to research the project, but all of my attempts to find more info thus far have hit dead ends.
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A fan like that will draw plenty of current.. but there ARE alternator upgrades available, if you are willing to do some minor custom re-wiring. Most of the stock wiring on these cars is so bad at this point, that alot of it should be reconstructed anyhow.
If your fan clutch spun freely when hot, then it is not engaging when hot and your fan isnt spinning. It sounds like you need a new clutch.
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We need to be more specific here and not just blanket statement that head bolts should be replaced every time as that is not the case here with the L-series.
Yes, we do.. this is what I have always been taught by my dad and uncle, and I am VERY GLAD to hear you say this Braap.
In the case of the Datsun/Nissan L-series, it is completely and totally acceptable to reuse the head bolts, main bolts, rod bolts etc.
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For the record, YES, you can reuse ALL the Datsun/Nissan L-series head bolts, rod bolts, and main bolts.
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If the engine is going to be spun at 7000+ RPMs often, then I would recommend the ARP rod bolts. If you are planning to run more than 12+ lbs of boost, then I’d also recommend ARP main studs.
Question: What would the potential consequences of re using these bolts on an engine of too much power? mains and rods could possible destroy a crankshaft, piston rods, block, ?pistons??? head bolts.. most likely a blown headgasket, right? possibly with accompanying overheating and warpage, yes, but mostly just a headgasket? Am I right, more or less right, off base? Just trying to glean a little more out of your wisdom hoard, thanks.
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the answer is true, if you try to spin the fan when cold, it should spin abot two times and stop. when warm it shoudl spin hard. also dont forget to change you hoses they could be collapsing, which causes restriction of the flow. as for you rsmog issues, If your running rich your air flow meter may be off a tooth or two, and there is a rubber plug on the left side of the afm that uses a screw to adjust the A/F ratio. you may have it running too rich there. running lean can cause overheating and you dont seem to have that problem. but i personally would put a new fanclutch on it my self
the only way for the AFM to be "off a tooth or two" is intentional fiddling by a PO; and the "A/F ratio adjustment" you mentioned is the idle air adjustment, which controls how much air bypasses the throttle plate to supply the engine at idle. If the AFM is mis-calibrated, then it may need to be tuned in.. but they usually dont "go off" from normal use. Aclibration directions should be available in Blue's techtips page, http://www.atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/EFI&fuel.htm
Sorry to correct you, I don't mean to sound like an ass.
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http://www.grapeaperacing.com/GrapeApeRacing/tech/dampers.pdf
its a link to a pdf file, so it will take adobe to read it.. clicking this one might be simpler, its the index of tech articles.
http://www.grapeaperacing.com/GrapeApeRacing/tech/index.cfm
The purpose of a harmonic balancer (properly termed a "torsional damper") is explained there wonderfully thoroughly, thanks to tonyd for pointing me towards the link.
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85-86 XT 4WD
86-87 GL 4WD
86-91 Loyale/GL 4WD
88-91 GL and XT-6 4WD
Look at all the above. Remember it was frequently and OPTION. The big silver "LSD" sticker on the rear cover is a quick way to tell. Of course do the rotation test to be sure.
The common 3:7 ratio is a fantastic ratio for street with a 5 speed.
exactly right, except....
It was ONLY an option. I repeat; the R-160 rear LSD was not installed in ALL of ANY Subaru model, it was only available as an option. However, it was a fairly widely selected option, and it was available on most, if not all models. In fact, the Soobie guys know that LSD can be fun, too, so its worth checking any older Subaru and seeing if the rear diff (if present) is the coveted limited slip... I am getting to a point where I check almost any RWD IRS japcar for an LSD, honestly
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Beautiful Z!! What kind of go-box has it got under the front cover?
Also, is that a BRAT I see in this photo??
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Another Subaru Guy here, and the LSD was ONLY offered as an OPTION on any car, EVER. It is not always on any vehicle, and they know that LSD is happy times, too.. so as was mentioned, ANY late 70's-1994 subaru may well have one on the back.. and even later ones as well. The quest for LSD in the junkyards leaves us sticking our heads under damn near everything with a pumpkin in the tail end, doesn't it?
the subaru LSDs will almost ALL be 3.7 ratio, and they should all have the green sticker mentioned above.
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larger pics please!! that is GORGEOUS! this IS an S30, right?
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FTW!!!
I LOVE that!
Theres a kid across the street with an 86 300ZX that has the hood, headlights, and front clip from an 87+ on it. The overall effect is fantastic, it is really the best of all worlds of Z31 if you ask me..
BTW, veritech.. I think that is the only time I have seen a skyline style tail light on a Z and not found it inappropriate.
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70's Skyline tailights
in Body Kits & Paint
Posted
orange turn signals, red tail light/brake light combo, white backups. same colors in the euro 280s... just in standard 280 config. A minor difference, but IMO a major one; it sets everything *just* right.