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Hey guys for some reason when i do a search for "tow hook" or "tow point" i get zero results. Anyway ive been reading that the factory "tow points" are actually hold down points for transport. So, im a little reluctant to use this as a tow point. Im affraid that if i dont get a straight pull, that i might bend the chassis. What are some thoughts on this? What is everyone using and how is it working? I mainly want to use it to winch up into the trailer if needed and incase i get squirly at the track and need to be pulled out.

Yeah, im no expert but ideally doesn't the entire underside of the car need to be flat for the diffuser to work? Thats what i read anyway.

Hey guys I was wondering if anyone has done a front engine with a rear mount transaxle? Like some porches. I know it is full fab work, but i was just curious. I probably wouldn't even attempt anything like this. I know space in the rear is a premium, so it might not be fesable. Thoughts?

I tried to search but didn't see what I was looking for. I have a 260z with a Cobra Monaco Pro seat mounted I have a harness bar, so I am not concerned with the shoulder belts. It seems that the stock mounting locations for the OE belts are too far rearward, resulting in too much angle. Couldn't find anyone that had problems with lap belts, just shoulder belts. So, is there a real simple answer that I'm not seeing? If I have to make new mounting points I will, but wanted to see where everyone else is mounting them. Thanks

Ok so im putting in a 2jzgte into my 260. I bought some oem aftermarket motor mounts and the steering shaft touches it. Emailed mr. Coffey and he said get the oem from Toyota. My question have any of you used the TRD motor mounts will they have clearance issues?

Oh snap! Never really crossed my mind and never thought about it that way. Thanks

Im worried that there will not be proper coolant circulation if I do that. This is what I read on some Supra forums regaurding bypassing the heater core. Have you seen any negatives?

Hello, so i've been working on this car for a long time, 260z with a 2jzgte. Right now I have a coolant hose coming straight out of the top rear of the head and a coolant line running from the water pump around the back of the motor. These I think normally go to the heater core which i decided not to use. So, the idea was just to loop these 2 lines together. Well I went single turbo instead of staying with stock twins. The down pipe that would leave from the turbo would run into this coolant bypass line. Just curious how others delt with this issue? Any advise would be great.

Okay this has been driving me crazy for a while. I bought all the parts from MM to do the Q45 swap into my 260z, billet flanges, and chromoly shafts. Anyway, I have been having second thoughts about using a VLSD rather than a true LSD. I have been looking and searching about using a 350z diff instead or using an LSD for a 350z in the Q45 case. Can't really find much info. 1st question is, and I know the answer is probably no, can any of the Quaife LSDs for the 350z fit in the Q45 housing? 2nd how different are the 350z diffs than the Q45 diff? From the random searches I think the 350z a bit wider, anyone know how much? Has anyone done this type of upgrade/ swap? Thanks

Cool. I should ask you how much you want for it, because your selling. Obviously i dont want to spend too much, but shoot me a number and maybe we can come to an agreement.

Well what kind of condition is it in? Rusty, dented, or leaks? Any pictures?

I'm looking for a gas tank for my early 74 260z. Doesn't have to be from a 74 Z, as long as it bolts up. I live is southern California.

Hey guys, been searching but havent really found what I am lookin for. Im doing a standard surge tank for my 74 260z. Im using the stock electric fuel pump to supply the surge tank. Is it okay to have the fuel pickup point lower than the pump itself? I know the stock setup was setup this way. the pump sucked up fuel from a tube close to the top of the tank. I just dont feel too safe if I have to mount it level with the pickup from my stock tank (welded on sump), seems too low. Im afraid of hitting or damaging the pump while driving. Thanks, Justin

So I don't need to worry about contact? Thanks

I have the 240sx rear disc brake upgrade from MM. I made sure the calipers are on the correct side, with bleeders facing up. I switched the parking brake arms around, but it still seems that the parking brake arms are going to contact the body if I hit a bump. I actually cut off the stock brake line mounting points to get more room. Am I doing something wrong? I looked at the install pics many times, but nobody mentions this problem. Here are some pics. Its hard to tell in the pictures but there is only about 1-1.5" till there is contact.

Yes

Thank you very much.

Okay so I have chosen to ditch the stock proportioning valve and go with a standard adjustable Wilwood unit. Should this be okay or do I need to keep the stock PV? I asked this a few months ago, but didn't get answers. From searches, most people just leave the stock PV out. Thanks

Well I used threaded nut inserts, so I can just undo those if I ever need to pull the cross member out. I went to cross member instead of the fire wall, because when I mounted the 2jzgte I was very close to the fire wall. Just didn't want to worry about contact.

I am starting to plumb the brake lines. This is my first time, virgin, at running and flaring brake lines. Before I go any further, does what I have so far look acceptable?

The RCAs come with a bunch of washers, but found out from Gabe that the washers go on the inside none on the outside. Once I did that all the space was taken up. But it doesn't mean you have to use the same amount of washers on each side. Every car is a little different with minor tweaks here and there. So, the idea is to get the control arm to move its full range of motion without binding. Well, I'm guessing that is the idea.

I have a 12 ton hydraulic/ pneumatic press (cheap kind from harbor freight tools), hopefully you will not need to drill out any of the pins like I did. I actually took the pin that I could not get out to John C to have a look at it. He eventually got it out, but not without a fight. I worked on it for months, I was so frustrated with it I would do other things with the car just because I didn't know how to remove it.

Thanks for the advise. I'll do my best to set it up so it doesn't bind.

This was my next question. What is the best way to make sure it is perpendicular?