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notheredave

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Everything posted by notheredave

  1. notheredave
    OOOPS I didn't flip the part in the middle were the mount bolts to. Well I will have to cut up another trans crossmember and do it again. I'll post pictures later.
  2. notheredave
    I have a solution for the Z32 front calipers (with no machine or guess work on your end)...Do you want 4 or 5 lug? Do you want the strut tube to be sectioned? What size rims do you have? and I also have a 350z setup also!!!
  3. notheredave
    Here are some pictures of the Trans mount (will work for T5, T45 and TR4650) I cut the flat sections, the center bridge and the water/oil adapter. I had the trans mount welded today...I also had the 3" flat iron cut for the motor mounts, trans mount bolt bracket pieces cut and I will be welding tomorrow. See pictures. PS the trans mount is upside down compared to the Ford Mustang setup. It'll support dual exhaust!
  4. notheredave
    Yes I do...I got a big laugh for "entirely too much time on your hands" I just sold my Corolla GTS and now I have more money for the Z. Yes it's an addiction.
  5. notheredave
    I have decided to go with a VLSD and CV's...Which when I donate and get a PayPal account I will be putting these together. They are long nose R200 with Q45 joint on the inside and a Q45 or 300z z31 turbo joint on the outside and I make the shortened shafts. Please tell me what you think? I also included some cheezy orange and yellow photoshop pictures.
  6. notheredave
    What are you going to do for a parking with the Z32 rear brakes? I was going to do this a couple of years ago but I changed my mind for a REALLY over sized rears...See pictures but easy install. I also have a solution for the Z32 front brakes (what are Z guys willing to pay for a complete setup?). I also sectioned the struts with 1 1/2" lowering springs, 1" extra travel and 1" more lowering...so the total lowering is 2 1/2" and an extra inch of travel (if you don't do it this way you'll be on the strut stops). The rears are 1" with hugh pads...I am doing a DOHC Ford Modular V8 and can't wait to try them.
  7. notheredave
    Well it looks like I found an easier solution to the leaky fabricated shifter extention box...HURST 05-06-07 MUSTANG GT W TREMEC TKO SHIFTER 3915074 US $258.88 It says TKO but I am not sure that it won't fit the regular tremec T45, T5 or tr3650
  8. notheredave
    PS I also added another picture that is his final setup.
  9. notheredave
    These (2) pictures are not mine...And I didn't even notice the shifter adater! I know that many Z swaps could use one. So here's the address (thread) http://forums.tccoa.com/showthread.php?t=119856. I have a DOHC 4.6L (the one in the picture is a SOHC) with the same tranny and the shifter was off on mine by ~3" (had to notch the opening) I also added another picture that is his final setup
  10. notheredave
    I think I have resolved the clutch problem (tremec tr3650's are cable driven). I did some research and spoke with Wilwood about using a pull type slave (part# 260-1333), a clutch master (part# 260-6764), and a brake master (part# 260-8556-P) for my Z32 front calipers and hugh 1" Vented rears with big pads. See attachments (including rear brakes).
  11. notheredave
    Hi yellowoctupus I am interested in how you setup the t45 and why use a Chrysler brake master cylinder for the clutch...Also what did you used on the transmission for the slave? I am using a tremec 3650 which should be similar. Thanks in advance
  12. notheredave
    I was trying to position everything but it was'nt happening and I saw your solution... Thanks for the awesome info.
  13. notheredave
    I think I have an solution to the steering and it's really cheap...you get an extra steering rod and a heim joint (~$8 to $12 on the internet or Ebay) Here is the thread where I found the solution: http://forums.hybridz.org/index.php/topic/90729-just-picked-up-my-first-v8-240z/ and here are a couple of pictures (attached)
  14. notheredave
    Thanks for the information I just spent the day with adjusting the motor for the steering rod (which I will be adding another joint) and the mounts...I had some angle iron that has one side wider than the other and when the (2) wide sides are butted up then appear to fit the Z's frame rails perfectly...All I need now is some flat iron...Also had to cut the water/oil adapter on the water side and remove some and reposition the water neck to clear the block and header. I'm taking a brake for an hour and then I will be working on the transmount. I think I will be doing the single exhaust after all. Or maybe I'll change my mind again and again and again!!! LOL
  15. notheredave
    Sounds great...I am on the fence about the exhaust and the tank setup...Do you have a 75 - 76 gas tank? Also I will have to wait till payday to do more...I am tacking up the motor mounts, transmount mounts, radiator brackets, and water neck/oil line adater parts (my way) and then taking them to a professional welder to be done right.
  16. notheredave
    Bump Ferrari's, Subaru's and others use a flat plan crank and most other used a cross plane design. The flat plain Subaru 4 is like the sound of (2) two cylinders or the Ferrari v12 is like (2) 6 cylinders running together. The davantages is less rotating mas, more power and it sounds awesome. Bellow is a like: http://www.projectm71.com/Cross_FlatPlane.htm http://www.autozine.org/technical_school/engine/smooth4.htm
  17. notheredave
    I planned on putting it in the back...Somewhere I am going to use a fuel cell or a 280zx tank or a rx7 tank so that I can cut out the spare and do a dual exhaust. I was hoping to put a battery between the tank and the y in the ehaust...see picture. see at link below: http://www.lainefamily.com/240Z_V8_Conversion-files/240Z_Conversion_Exhaust_System.htm I also have a billet gas filler pipe flange I had on my 240z turbo with the same setup...you have to weld up the door and cut a circle for the flange and the gas filler bolts to the back...Similar in looks to a aviation filler.
  18. notheredave
    Kar Kraft upper intake and the stock Navagator bottom intake... I also have the dual 4 barrel version. Kar Kraft I believe is out of business now. The pictures are what inspired a friend to build a 56 Ford F100 with a 5.4L twin turbo...WELL he bought my motor and was in the process of doing the build when he pushed the panic button and wanted his money back...Some friend!!! But now I decieded to do more work than he wanted like balancing, some blueprinting, etc. I should have it back by the 4th. Here is some eye candy.
  19. notheredave
    I mocked up a 5.4L with a Kar Kraft upper manifold. And for fun I did some photo shop and some Mercedes Benz rims.
  20. notheredave
    I checked it out today and yellowoctupus you are right the air cleaner does open up to the back part of the wheelwell / fender...So my plan now I will rivet a piece of sheet metal between the fender and the wheelwell...and it's not in the area of the wheel/tire. I will post pictues soon.
  21. notheredave
    I haven't cut the circle out yet BUT the idea is the cold air vent for the car runs right through there but might partially cut into the wheelwell BUT that's not a problem...I will weld a piece to make the differance. I have also put (3) more pieces to the puzzle: 1. a 4" (diameter) X 4" (long) X 1/8th" (wall thickness) piece of aluminum pipe 2. a 4" (diameter) silicon coupler pipe hose 3. half (rubber part) of a intake to throttle body intake pipe...from a 1993–1997 Lincoln Mark VIII (see picture with red square) I also picked up some angle iron and the motor mount recievers and bolts from a 1997 and up Ford Expedition.
  22. notheredave
    Here is my solution for a cold air intake, air cleaner and one picture of the steering rod solution...I rotated the engine which gave me more engine to hood and more clearance for the steering rod.
  23. notheredave
    Yes it will work and they are expensive. If you run "C" heads there are more options, but the price is much more and for a small benefit...because the "B" heads flow better But the mid HP is better on the "C"'s.
  24. notheredave
    I tried to install a 1998 Lincoln continental manifold for a easier intake setup but it sits too far back (which would force my engine from 4" on) So the best setup I guess is the 1998 LSC Lincoln Mark VIII. I will be looking into modifying the battery location for the air intake.
  25. notheredave
    I had read your thread and had planned on reprogramming (deletes). Thanks
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