notheredave

I played with the engine and transmission attached...I cut out the transmount in the tunnel, relocated the control box for the IRC's, cut of the stock Z motor mount perches. I have the oil pan and the bottom of the bellhousing is about the same height...which is lower than the crossmember (makes me nervous) I am also thinking of switching the 98' LSC Mark VIII intake for the 98' lincoln continental intake which is similar to the earlier Mark VIII with the throttle body in the rear (better to route the intake) or I will modify the battery area and the cabin pressure ducting with a kinda cold air intake??? fuel/ignition control will be an original ECM and harness but after I dial everything in...I will have it repogrammed (tuned).

the DOHC is a much better choice in my opinion. The mounts and bolt in mount recievers (Ford expedition), Intake manifolds ("B" heads...98 intake), exhaust mainifolds (most Mark VIII's have stainless steel exhaust manifolds (2) LEFT PASSENGER SIDE) and oil pans are important (ANY BUT MARK VIII). I am building a website for a friend (which will be drdohc.com) his email address is: "Marvin Reeder" <fullonfab@cox.net> and phone number is: 702-285-7177 (Marvin). He specializes in "B" motors and some "C" motors stuff...Mostly Carburetor, ignitions, and intake systems. real nice guy likes to talk.

I thought mine was a "c" head motor but it's a 98' Mark VIII LSX (or something like that) and super low miles looks new inside. I have a pair of "C" head motors that are apart and am balancing a 5.4 DOHC with twin turbos...Too many parts. I am looking into modifing the header on the drivers side and an extra knuckle in the steering.

I don't know how tall the supercharger is but I have at least 3" thill it hits the hood, I have 1 1/2 to 2" on the crossmember to oil pan and I have 1 1/2 to 2" on each side. I think it would be easier to turbocharge it. PS as soon as I get it running and on the road I will paint the car and dress up the motor.

After years of collecting motors and transmissions I have finally committed ~12 hours into putting a 4.6L Ford Modular Motor with a Tremec 3650 5 speed. I have figured out everything but the steering rod. I decided to cut out the spare and run dual exhaust with a fuel cell or a 280zx tank and the Ford FI pump. I am building a DOHC 5.4L twin turbo which is probably a bit too much and it would take up the 3" of clearance I now have from the top of the motor to the hood. So I am sending out my whole suspension out for powder coating. The motor sits from the strut towers to the fire wall and the engine is the all aluminum one that is 450 lbs. I can't wait to drive her. P.S. the other mods I am doing now or have done. I have: a R200 LSD sectioned struts 1" of added travel and 1" of lowering the perches Brakes on the front are Z32 full bushing kit a pair of Modern Motor 300zx turbo to 280z adapter a set of phantom gauges a pair of second generation MR2 seats 280zxt gas tank with the ford pump and I had a billet gas filler adapter that fits the gas pipe I used the 4.6L radiator and electric fan

I have the motor and someone is working on retrofitting the q45 electronics (so I can run a Jim Wolf Tech ECM) to it. And I have a late model Z31 TURBO tranny (same internals as the Z32's) But it has a regular shifter setup. YES YES & YES I am interested in the setup. Email me at: zpsychotech@gmail.com

PSS Here are some pictures of the Supra:

Hi I know this is an old tread and I have been working on my 4.2L (on the stand) with the help of: http://www.supramania.com/forums/showthread.php?100227-Limequat-s-4.2l-I6-Swap a guy that did the swap on a Supra. Lots of good information. PS I am Z crazy and I also have a L28T with a Jim Wolf setup and a Turbonetics turbo, a Titan 5.6L DOHC V-8 (23K miles),4.6 DOHC with GT42, 5.4L DOHC (TBA), 99 LS1, and a Mecedes Benz 3.6L Berabus stroker inline 6 (It also has clearance problems...Modified oil pan and ITB's (which I have already). Way too many but it gives me a lot of things to do. Here are some pictures of the 5.4L just sitting in the engine bay for a look at clearances (the way it sits now in the pictures I have 6-8" from the back or the engine to the firewall. And I did some photoshop on the hood and the scoop.

I read the whole post and didn't see these tools...Maybe I missed them. But here are the links: PS with the Auzdat you need to scroll down and select a base engine (motor) and then manipulate the figures with the drop down menus...It also alerts you whan the piston is above deck and if you don't match pistons with bores. http://www.ozdat.com/ozdatonline/enginedesign/ oooops I see it now on page one!!! http://www.zhome.com/ZCMnL/tech/128combo.html

I just found this engine in a F150 PU and am thinking of getting it...Also there is a lightning with a NA 351cu in.

Cool...I have had two built for me and used shortened shafts and z31 turbo cv joints on the outside and used the (I think stub axles) cv joints from the viscous diff. on the inside for my 240z turbo and now I found a 87 CLSD which I have literally been looking for...for ~20 years in the Junk Yards.

Did you do it yourself or did you have someone put it together for you? How did you determine what shims/spacers to use and was your Z31 diff a late model one with the bigger ring bolts? Are you using this diff in a 240-280z ? or a 300zx ? Thanks

I'll just add those to my cart and check out!!! Wow what have they been smoking...And who has that kind of money?

I remember reading in "how to build L series" you would have to buy a titanium valve train kit which at the time 80's was $1,200, balance, and blueprinting (which is interesting when Ed Hale Racing did this to my first L28et they were suprised that they didnt have to do much), a rod with link ends for the altenator, and my experience is you need to run an electric fan min. and most likely a electric water pump above 8k OR BAD TIMES. I guess you could knife edge the crank, put a girdle on the bottom end with a scraper and a dry sump system

Cool looking project I am looking to do ITD's on a L28T (have) or a 1uz and found this awsome 2.4L 20,000rpm :burnout:You tube: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AKyP19ky_W0&NR=1 Enjoy

Well they (the "91.5mm" pistons) came in and to my suprise they are 89mm...Soooooooooooooo Happy. The next problem is the rods that I will need are 136mm (pin height is 3mm too short to use the 133mm 240 rods) I thought that I could used SR20's but I think they are too thin on the big end. Any suggestions?

That's good to know...So I could run the 3.5L turbo'ed? It's sounding like I should run a q45 v-8 LOL

My mistake!!! Mazworx seems to be the only place that still sells them I just called them (1-407-281-1223) and the "KIT" sells for $670 shipped and comes with adapter, hardware, short shifter and shortened shifter bracket. PS It really sucks that we can on send PM's every 30 minutes...Bad times!!!

Mazworx seems to be the only place that still sells them I just called them (1-407-281-1223) and the "KIT" sells for $670 shipped and comes with adapter, hardware, short shifter and shortened shifter bracket. PS It really sucks that we can on send PM's every 30 minutes...Bad times!!!

I have read a couple of threads and am concerned about boring my block 90.3mm...with ,forged pistons, a diesel crank and 136mm rods (sr20det...I think?). I hope it holds the boost (gt35 and JWT setup)

Cool link...My pistons 90mm, Diesel crank, 240 rods = ~3.2L 9:1 cr

This company Mazworx is a lot cheaper...price not quality http://www.mazworx.com/index.php?l=product_list&c=106 high $400's including machine work on the bellhousing.

85mm? what is the stock bore? I just bought 90.3mm forged pistons.

There is a lot of information out there on mods...From the English Guys and others