utvolman99

Well from what I understand the T56 is rated much higher than the 700R4. The chevy T56 is identical to the T56 used in the Viper. I think the trans is rated to 450 lb/ft of torque. I have seen where companies offering remanufactured 700R4s say they good for around 350 lb/ft in stock form. Also, I have heard bad things about the world class T-5. I was going to go in that direction but changed my mind. I was told that I would be fine with WC but that it would go sooner or later if I was pushing anything over 350hp. Since I should be around 400, I am going with the 700R4.

First off, unless this is a track only care Im pretty sure everyone here is going to tell you to go overdrive. That pretty much narrows it down to 200R4 or 700R4 for the automatics. Both can be built to take what you deliver but the 700R4 is much stronger. You also have the T5, WCT5 and the T56 if you decide you want to shift. Of those the T56 is the best choice. The world class T5 is a good transmission if you have a very mild V8 or dont abuse it much. Over all I would guess that the strength of the transmissions in stock form are as follows. T56 700R4 200R4 WCT5 T5 Hope this helps

The 305 and the 350 look the same from the outside. you have to go by the casting # on the back of the block. Im sure grumpy or someone could supply you with a link.

One last thing, if you call Holleys tech line and give them your cars weight, engine size, trans and gearing they can give you a really good starting place for your jets and power valve. The ones that come from the factory would not be what you would need for such a lite car.

Well, to answer your question about the fuel it could hurt your heads. The older engines were designed to run on leaded fuels and had different valve seats. If you dont have hardened valve seats installed you could eat away your valve seats. Another alternative is to buy lead additive at your local autoparts store and add it to every tank. As far as the octane goes you are not going to hurt anything IMO. One thing to keep in mind is that if you dont have enough compression ratio to take advantage of the super high octane you are just waisting money!

I dont know about the right hand drive but if they are the Hedmans that have the 4 into 1 design I think they should work. I really like the way they are made. I have not seen them on a Z but they look like they stick to the block a little better than hookers and some of the others that work.

I had an almost identical problem with my donor car only mine had a 327. I am really glad I waited to find a 350. According to the all mighty computer program If you build a 350 to have around 350HP like you said and then built a 305 with all the same components you would loose about 20HP and 35lb/ft of torque. IMO 20Hp is much more expensive than the difference between the two engines in costs. I was able to pick up a really clean 350 for $100. I would hold out for the 350.

I was at my fathers shop in Knoxville last Saturday working on my Z. Some customers were there dropping off a car that needed a brake job. The guys son was following him in order to give him a ride home. His Honda Prelude made me laugh my ass off! It was a second generation bright yellow ricer with a HUGE rear wing. He had three 17" wheels and one stock. He said he had broken his other "rim" a few months back. Here is the best part. He had a bottle of NOS octane boost tie strapped to the upper part of his windshild post on the passenger side. It had a small plastic tube running from the top to behind the dash! When he lifted his hood (to add tow quarts of oil) he had another can of octane boost strapped to the battery with a tube running to an old brown worn out air filter. I couldnt help laughing out loud. By the way, the father is a good family friend so I kind of felt bad till he started making fun of it himself. He said that his big brother always gives him crap about it. By the way his big brother is Johnny Knoxville from Jack Ass.

I agree with grumpy but I also have to think that you may have something off with your setup. Running your #s on Dyno 2000 gives the following. 2000 341 lbs/ft 2500 359 3000 381 3500 408 4000 428 4500 439 5000 434 5500 416 6000 381 6500 339 7000 281 Also, from trying it on Dyno advancing your cam would not do a whole lot for you. Something you may not know is that xtreme energy cams have 4 degrees of advance in the grind already. You may want to spend some time making sure that your timing and carb are dialed in correctly. I had a 351W with a holley 750 with very poor low range. Turned out to be the power valve. The engine was not able to keep up with the fuel supply till around 3000RPM. If that were your problem you would notice that the care was running rich. You can see that on your plugs and smell it in your exhaust!

I wish I could but I shouldnt go pressing my luck! I only have so many chips to call in! He has already called me back asking me about a work job that I have already promised to someone else.

Well, I have decided to go with the over head differential mount like Pete did. Its taken from Ron Tyler's web page. I am making one little adjustment to the design that could potentially save people a little money. Instead of having all the parts welded together I am going to have the main part lazer cut and bent. The only weld will be the support bar. I am getting it done for $20 but Im a mechanical engineer who happens to send a lot of business to this machine shop. Here is a link to Ron Tyler's page. he is one of the best fabricators I've seen. He is also a really nice guy! Ron's page

Yes, yes, now I do see why spending an extra $200 up front would of been at least easier. As for using the longer valves on one side and the shorter on the other will I have to go with two different length pushrods? it would seem that the longer valve stems will change the geometry a bit?

Well the Iron Eagle struggles continue. I am all set to order new valve springs and now I notice that the valves are different lengths. I know this is a stupid question but should I buy new valves for the other side or should I just shim the long side? Like I said, I know not what I say. I am still trying to learn. Also, if you could help me with valve name brand identification. One head has manley valves and they are marked the other has valves marked with a 3B-17. The 3B is in an oval. If I have to buy new valves I would like for them to match.

Well, I just got off the phone with the seller and he is going to be nice enough to help me with the cost of new springs. Problem is now, it seems that the valves are to different brand names as well. One is a standard manley the other is some sort of necked down swirl valve. I dont suppose it would hurt to not change them all out? Will the problems never end!

Well, Im on the phone right now with compcams (if they will ever answer!) Im pretty sure that either set will work. I am just worried about not having a matched set!

It would seem that one set is comp cams 954 and one set is comp cams 987. Both double spring sets.

Well, as I sat removing the springs from my Dart I.E. heads I realized that the two heads have different springs!!! One has a MUCH stiffer spring than the other! I have contacted my Ebay friend who sold them to me and am trying to get identification. I do know that both sets are new and will handle the lift of my cam xs268s. They are both double springs and look to be quality. I really dont want to buy new springs. Should I... a. Leave them the way they are b. mix with stiff on exhaust c. mix with stiff on intake d. break down and buy new springs a, b, or c would be the best! This really really sucks!!!

check out this site. He moves the knock sensor to the set back plate for the motor mount. He is also using Hooker block huggers. This guy really knows what he is doing! LT1 Z

The injectors may not be your problem. Im not a FI guy but you may be starving your fuel system with that ZX fuel pump! If Im not mistaken the LT-1 takes a ton of fuel pressure to function properly.

You really need to just take the pistons to a machine shop. The will change your pistons for about $2 a pop! Well worth not messing anything up!

Sorry, this should of been under a thread below talking about opening a shop.

I have already been through this. Your intake is roughly the same height as the one I will be using (Victor Jr.). There were a couple of people who told me that they were running the RPM with about 1/2" clearance. The only catch is you have to run a drop base air cleaner. You know like the edelbrock ones you can buy at the local autoparts stores for $30. Try doing a search using my user # and victor jr. Hope this helps!

I am not really into the import tuning thing but boy there sure is a lot of money there. One thing about that market is that it is still getting started, plenty of tricks to learn for getting power out of those little engines. Im a mechanical engineer so I figure that cant hurt my credibility. Maybe the fact that my fiancé is Mexican will help me get a loan if we go in as partners? Good luck to all of you!

Well pete, I dont think Ill be doing a lot of SCCA racing. From what I understand my engine modifications would put me in a class that my suspension couldn’t back up! Lone, to answer your question as a mechanical engineer myself I would be willing to bet dollars to doughnuts that the SCCA just contracted an engineering firm to help the create the roll cage specs. One of my college professors designed roll cages on several occasions. In addition to teaching he specialized in automobile insurance cases. He would examine the structural integrity of the wrecked car and determine if everything held up the way it should of.

I would be very interested in the interior parts as well. Please let me know how your project is coming!