utvolman99

Would this be acceptable for an oil system? I am worred about running dry at high RPMs. -Stock size five qt oil pan -dual remote oil filters -remote oil cooler I figure that this should make for at least a 7qt system. I currently have a 7qt oil pan that I dont think I will be able to use. I bought it from Ebay and it doesnt line up with the rear main seal very well.

I am pretty sure that the 240 260 and 280 all have the same trans tunnel. As a matter of fact I think they are completely the same dimensionally.

I dont think you want a Northstar. My father ownes a shop. About two months ago we had one come in needing a rebuild. You wouldnt even begin to believe how much the parts cost for that little jewel. As far as we could find there was no aftermarket availible we had to go to the dealer for everything. If I remember right a set of rings ran us close to $500!! I am pretty sure the gasket set was even more!

Okay, its at home in Knoxville(4 hours away) right now. I will be going home this weekend and will get some pics.

Hey guys, I just got my car back with a nice new 8 pt roll cage installed. I am wanting to keep the car as functional as possible and will probably add AC. I was very afraid that I wouldnt be able to use my stock side air vents but I was able to keep them with a simple mod. If this is a problem others are worried about let me know and I will post pictures.

Hey you dont need any special tools. You just use a regular socket. Your standard socket set should come in 6 and 12 point. The ARP nuts are made for the 12 pt, they just look funny. I went through the same thing. If you have a tool set you already have the socket.

Dont forget to only wear your underwear when driving. A light weight key chain wouldnt hurt either!

it helps to have a 400 gallon gas tank like the ZX. If I remember right its over 20 or something. I sold my ZX after high school.

The stealth intake is a good intake. I had it on a 351W in a mustang. With that said it is still a dual plane intake. Dual plane intakes are more for lower RPM torque and single plane intakes are more for higher RPM. A lot of people on this board recomend either the Victor Jr. (Single plane) or the Performer RPM (Dual plane). IMO with such a light car the Vic Jr is a good choice.

I must say that this is truely a GREAT idea!! I know it wouldnt work and I also know its really stupid but you just have to admire someone who figures out how to take money from stupid ricers like that! Im pretty sure that that is a squirl cage fan I see peaking out from that "super charger"!!

I am wanting to use Miata seats in my 73. I have an 8 pt roll cage welded in and can no longer use my three point seat belts in the standard location. Are there 4 pt seat belts that will work on a high back seat with no through holes? Also, is there an easy way to go back with a three point? I really want to be able to use the Miata seats for clearance and $ reasons. Please help me out here. I know this is not the right forum for this but I couldnt really find one that it fit in.

Its a mount for a chevy 350 trans.

Its a mount for a chevy 350 trans.

Well, I am finally putting my engine back together. It has been almost a year and a move across the State but I am back at it. Here is the problem, I am missing the thrust plate that holds the camshaft in. I guess I misplaced it. I cant seem to find one anywhere! If anybody has one I would love them forever!

Two tone Brown and close to the ground?

Or this Another

I would go with something like this... Lil' Sleeper

It may not be an option for a Z car but I would love to flip one of those babies over and plant it under a 914!

Okay Sentra, there seems to be some confusion here. Just to clear things up Here is a list of GM style automatic transmissions. Power Glide (Older 2 speed, still the choice of many drag racers) TH-350 (3 speed, CHEAP and strong will hold up to what you want if built) TH-400 (3 speed, Heavy duty version of the TH-350. More weight and power loss but much stronger) 200R4 (4 speed overdrive, kind of like a TH-350 with overdrive. They are getting hard to find) 700R4 (4 speed overdrive, Kind of like the TH-400 with overdrive. Probably most popular for swap) If you are wanting to bracket race with your car I would suggest an automatic. It is very hard (if not impossible) to be competitive in a manual. The swap also seems a little more simple with an automatic as well. I am going with an auto myself but that is just because I cant afford a T-56 six speed. Mine will be a street car.

Wow Pete, it looks so sweet! I do have one question, where did you find window molding without chrome? Ive been looking for that for a while now! Car looks great!

I think that sounds like a good deal but I would look into trading that transmission for one with an additional gear!

I know nothing about forced induction but just throwing some numbers together on Dyno2000 I think it would be relatively easy to get in your HP range.

I see your point. I was simply replying to his inference that it was somehow cheating to use a power adder (nitrous) one a sbc when he is using a power adder (turbo) on the L6. My school of thought is run what you brung! I dont care if its NOS, turbo or a blower. If your fast your fast. Didnt mean to step on you turbo guys toes.

Hmmm why dont we compare apples to apples. How about a turbo charged sbc? Or you could drop your turbo and go NA vs NA? Didnt think so!

Lone, thats a really good question. The factors that go into shift point have to do with both your torque curve and your transmission gearing. As I understand it is recommended to shift so that you will be at the peak of your torque curve in your next gear. With a 2.95 first gear and a 1.94 second gear (GM T-5) and 3700RPM Max torque. You would want to shift at 5626RPM. That would mean that you would be at 3700RPM and max torque after your shift. (Max torque)/(2nd gear) = (Shift Point)/(1st gear) Shift Point = (3700RPM/1.94)/2.95