Phantom

Well there are several car/engine options: 240Z28 240Z SS 240Z TA 240Z WS6 240Z C5 240Z06 240Z LS1 Somewhat subtle but still tells the story.

With your tires at a stock diameter and a 3.42 rear end and LS1 style T56 (.5:1 OD) will have you turning 1385 RPM in 6th at 60 mph. However, if you use the LT1 style T56 (.62:1 OD), you'll be turning 1,720 RPM in 6th. Both trannies have about a .75:1 5th gear so you could run it in 5th at 60 (2,075 rpm) and then shift to 6th when you're at higher speeds. Any tranny with a .75:1 OD 5th gear will allow you a top speed of 216 MPH at 7,500 rpm with your given differential and stock diameter tires. A world class T-5 should handle your torque & Hp and satisfy your cruise rpm requirements plus be less expensive than the T56.

Wow - just like the car - the commercial just keeps going and going.

Maybe someone else has already posted this but I was sitting in a sports bar in Henderson, NV Monday and looked up in time to see the end of a Valvoline commercial. It caught my attention because the oil was being poured into a familiar looking in-line 6. When the camera backed off the guy was standing in his driveway between a pair of 240Z's. One was red and I think the other was silver. Anyone know the curently most famous Z guy?

Once again - it all boils down to the intended use for the car. Mine is a daily driver and occaisional weekend racer with 311 rwhp and street tires. I could probably get away with an R180 and stock u-joints with a little care. For someone who is building a car planning on being a weekly weekend warrior at the dragstrip and approaching 400 rwhp running wrinkle walls then they should probably consider a solid rear axle like a Ford 9" or GM 12 bolt. It's all in how it's applied.

Get on the LS1 sites like wwwls1tech.com and look in their classifieds for cars. Also contact the local salvage yards.

David, I have an LS1 from a '98 F-body. The little research I've done indicates that it may not be compatible with the covers. If it were I'd jump all over the ones you have. Bill

David, Gorgeous engine bay. I've resisted getting the head covers but after seeing your I may have to succumb and get some. Really looks nice.

Dale - you're correct.

When my stock 1977 280Z fuel pump died I went to a salvage yard and pulled one. It was still running fine when I pulled the drivetrain two years later. Cost me $20.

Nissan dealerships have a machine that will turn the rotors on the car. I had run-out on my front disk conversion. I took it to my local Nissa dealership, they turned the rotors and now more problem.

You can refer to a Nissan Service manual, a Chiltons repair manual or even the car owners manual. They all list the stock wheel and tire sizes. I know the 280Z's, S30's made from 1975-1978 in the US, had 5.5" wide 14" diameter rims stock.

Try my series of 40+ posts under "LS1 / T56 Update #**". Searching in the Chevy forum using LS1 as your search criteria should turn up a wealth of information. Then you can braden into other forums for chassis, brakes, suspension, etc.

Totally understand! Like the new one much better. Now all we need are pictures with smoke coming off the tires!!

David - Change your signature. It's there now, not on its way! I can really identify with your feelings and they are absolutely great! I'm so glad you've got it on the road. Knowing the equipment you'll just be happier and happier with the LS1. Not too surprised about the T56. I had to have the synchros replaced in 5th & 6th on mine and I still notch a downshift into 5th occaisionally. I was thinking about the tach problem & gave myself a giggle with the thought of just letting the 6 cylinder tach take the V8 signal. Then you could have an 8,000 RPM redline!

Well - the dreaded OBD II engine warning light came on last night when I fired up to go home. Oil level and pressure is correct as well as coolant so I figure at this point it has something to do with the 02 sensor. The exhaust guy has been messing around the one on the passenger side so it's probably either damaged or has a bad connection. I'll get by Autozone and have them plug it in for the error code(s) in the next day or two. A friend was following me the other day and told me my tail lights were a bit strange - turn signals & brake lights were not consistant side-to-side as to location. Spent about 45 minutes last night with sweat running off me like a hose trouble shooting them. Turned out the three bulbs on the passenger side were all rotated one hole off. Evidently it happend a few months ago when the interior was done and I'm just now catching it. I wonder what else?

First of all - what color is the interior - or is the interior going to be? YOu want to coordinate the two. Secondly - Do you want to go with a solid color, two-tone, racing stripe(s), or some graphics? I agree about the metallic colors. Not only are they a bit more modern they have a much more expensive look. My first Z was painted Porsche Royal Guardsman Red - a 944 color with 3 coats of clearcoat. It was an in-your-face brilliant red and very pretty. The one I have now is a '97 Cadilac Eldorado Pearl Red. Not as in-your-face but much richer looking and has some nice transitions from full to partial to no sunlight. Obvioulsy I like red but There are beautiful shades of several other colors so it's really what you like.

Agree with Tony. That was the experience I had.

Did the jackstand behind the wheels do any damage when it came down?

Now that is a fine description of LS1 power with a T56 behind it. Welcome to the club! Ain't it great?!?

I've had no drivetrain problems, even with the 6 spd and the stump puller first gear, but that it primarily due to running street tires and only having 326 lb-ft of torque. I do have a good 3.70 LSD , a really stout driveshaft and the half-shafts have brute-force universals. I put them in after my first night at Ennis. Good thing too as the 150,000 mile original universals were showing some signs of "stress".

Why would a 350Z have a 'Y' pipe? I thought they have duals?

The big advantage that it has over the rotissiere is that you don't have to remove the bumpers to attach it. Mine are molded into the body fiberglass so this would work good for me if I needed to access the bottom of the car extensively. I agree about the suspension taking the load, though. Who wants to try it first and let us all know how it works?

I have dual 2 1/2" through an 'x' pipe that run to a single muffer (2 in - 1 out). Then again, I also have my car well insulated and that has significantly affected interior noise levels too.

Is the car going to be a daily driver or a show car? I don't see how they'd be much of a safety problem - unless you were in a really bad neighborhood and the door wouldn't open. Usually the concern is getting out of the car in case of an accident and they shouldn't affect that. If you're unconcious and they won't open the 'jaws of life' come to play.