Phantom

David, I posted a couple pictures in my album I took last night on the routing of my 2 1/2" exhaust. The one picture cuts off just as they go into the muffler in an over/under configuration.

Dale, With my short arms I need the shifter to locate about 3-4" back from that location. That is where my stock Hurst shift lever is located now. I'll either reinstall the modified lever I had on the stock GM shifter or 'tweak' the Hurst.

It really likes 8's. Over 800 HP, over 800 lb-ft of torque and over 8,000 rpm. I'm impressed.

Looking at your avatar it appears you have a 280Z. Trust me - wheel hop is a fact of life when you put the hammer down on these cars. I have to be very careful with mine when I get in a big hurry.

I'd stay away from it for a couple reasons: 1) Obviously you can't weld aluminum to steel so it would have to be mechanically fastened or some kind of high tech adhesive used to bond it to the steel structure which would probably not be as good as fully welded in steel part, and 2) Aluminum and steel are dissimilar metals so you'd set up a galvanic reaction and create a propensity to corrosion in the area. Z's have enough problem with rust without creating an area that encourages it. Of course - if you could do the entire shell in aluminum!?!

Just a note on the CableX speedo box - be certain all your connections are very clean and firmly soldered - not just twisted together and taped. The unit is subject to intermittent signal loss resulting in a speedo bouncing all over the place if everything isn't solid. I know. Great news on the beast coming to life - even if you did tease us about it. You probably had almost as much fun with that as starting the car! Congrats!!

I'm running stock ride height on European spec Nissan springs. I've got a good five inches from the pan to the ground - and then some. Not to be negative but the low spot for me is the exhaust. It hangs a good 3/4" lower than the pan and, not being near the wheels, has been dragged several times now. It's dual 2 1/2" and tucked up pretty good.

I figured you were planning some serious racing when I saw the adjustment plates at the top of the strut towers. I'm impressd with how clean it looks. Obvious pride in your craftsmanship. Taking time to do it right. Looks Great.

Totally agree. I'll probably shorten mine about 1 1/2-2" and put a tab on the front of it that moves it back about 1" and then tilts it back another 3". THe Hurst unit has a short enough throw that I can just about 'wrist it' through the gears.

Finally got the Hurst shifter installed on the T56 yesterday and now I'll have to tear it all apart one more time. The custom shift lever I was using on the stock shifter put the shift knob about 4-5" further back than the 'stock' position Hurst unit does. The shifter works significantly better than the stock but I feel like I'm reaching for the radiator cap when I'm gong for the odd numbered gears. I'm debating whether to modify the pretty Hurst shift lever or just throw the old lever back in. I've grown fond of the Hurst shift ball with the 6-spd pattern on it and the "HURST" on each side so I'll probably end up modifying the new one. I don't think the Hurst ball will fit the old lever as it has a custom thread too.

The thought you need to have is: "If I preload that area - what effect does it have on the surrounding areas and the way they are now loaded?" With a unibody structure everything is interrelated. Probably not disastrous but why not just weld up normally?

I'll bet if they carbon date it they'll find it's 2-3 million years old!

Christian Classic Cruisers host a show in NE Fort Worth on a monthly basis and they let everyone in - classics, sports cars, sport compact cars, etc. No problem. Maybe that's why they generally have 200 or more cars show up.

Candidate for a horror movie. Reminds me of a cat my mother-in-law had. It had an open wound where the nose was supposed to be with big gobs of snot running all the time. Sweet personality but definitely gross to look at.

FWIW - After I changed the expansion valve the sytem has worked flawlessly for me. Initially there were some very high pressures in the system. Evidently the valve was crudded up and restricting flow too much. Now that the car is well insulated it holds its own to about 100F.

Let's see - stroker motor plus lots of track time - that may end up being worth it - especially if you're planning on keeping the motor for a few more years. Then again - if you blew it you'd have the excuse for the V8!!

I ran the one from MSA on my L28 for about two years and then removed it when I did the V8 conversion. I saw no effect before and after as far as temperature of the coolant. It still went a bit hot when the weather got really hot and the AC was gasping. I'm sure it lowered oil temperature some but that wasn't an issue. Unless you are going to do some serious racubg I would consider one an unnecessary complication of your system and a waste of money - that you could use for a V8 conversion!!

David, I ran 2 1/2" to an 'X' pipe then continued with dual 2 1/2" to the rear. Used a "frame clearance pipe" to get under the suspension on the passenger side and then crossed both pipes over to the stock postion to run through a magnaflow muffler - dual 2 1/2" in and single out. It has a really good sound. At 2 1/2" they are still the lowest point under my car. Larger diameter pipes will be even lower. CAreful on ground clearance. It talked about it in more detail in one of my LS1/T56 update posts. Bill

Air regulator not functioning will really screw you up. It works in conjunction with the cold start valve in controlling your air-fuel ratio during start and then changes position for the "run" mode.

Yeah - but that lowering kit sure beats the price of the other kits I've seenout there. I'll bet you could even find it in your garage!