Phantom

Cody, 1) I got a new expansion valve from Motorsport Auto about 3 years ago. YOu'll have to call them to see if they have any in stock. 2) Try the following link: www.autocool-refrigerants.com ES-12A works in R12 systems and, when I last checked, was cheaper than even R134. I'm running an R12 "equivalent" (Freeze 12) in my car and it's working fine. Bill

Dale, Are you going to have AC or forego it? I notice that your accessories layout allows for an AC compressor high on the drivers side. You've baically got the same configuration I have on mine. So far it's working well for me.

I hear you. When the car was apart for the new interior and sound system I replaced the door, quarter panel window, and hatch seals. Also filled the rear fenders and quarter panels with foam, dynamatted and felted the whole thing. It makes it a bit cozy around the pedals for my size 12's but the car is significantly quieter and the effectiveness of the AC is noticably improved. Now I need to get it back on the scales and see what my front/rear weights are now that it's basically done.

I'm impressed! That was quite a saga - and it ended successfully! Congrats!

This past weekend was good for the 280Z28. I finally got the exhaust leak corrected and the car is back to sounding very sweet. It makes me want to drive with the windows down just to listen to it. On the opposite side - I got some new quarter window seals - the ones that install on the leading edge of the windows between them and the doors and got them in and the drivers door striker adjusted. Wind noise is almost non existent now and car is very quiet inside - for an S30 wtih a V8 anyway. Also got the sound system tuned up again and I'm really enjoying it along with an AC system that is so far holding its own in the Texas heat. My sons got me a Hurst shift kit for the T56 for Fathers Day / Birthday - tore the car apart to install and then figured out they'd ordered the one for the 93-97 T56 rather than the newer one that fits the LS1. Talk about a pair of frustrated young men.

Do you have a factory service manual? You can get one on CD from Courtesy Nissan in Irving, Texas. Unfortunaetly there are several different problems that could give you the symptoms your're experiencing and the FSM would really help you there. I haven't had the L28 in my car for long enough now that I've forgotten most of the little things in that area. If you're fuel pressure is staying up then it comes down to electrical or air. Pull the plugs and look at them and see if they are sooty or wet from fuel.

Actually stopped atnd talked with the owner for a few minutes last night. The car started life as an '87 Acura Integra 4-door. It now is a two door. It still has the stock drivetrain which explains why the tires set so far in. The Integra obviously wasn't as wide as a C5.

I know how you feel. I finally got the last leak out of my dual set-up last Friday and, even though I'm running a magnaflow, it sure does sound sweet. I went the route of sweeping the passenger side pipe over to the drivers side and coming out thorugh a single muffler and kept the stock fuel tank. Congrats on getting it done. It really looks nice.

What you saw is normal. It takes the regulator a small amount of time to respond to the throttle movement.

You'll get some opinions on fuel pressure but the gage I installed on mine generally indicated around 35 psi at the inlet to the injection rail. This really does sound like a fuel restriction problem to me. You could have crap in your tank that is partially plugging the exit strainer. I'd get a 5-gallon pail and run the system long enough for a good delivery test. If it drops off after a while you've got debris in your tank.

Probably for hot rdders or older F-bodies

Battle Pope - I saw it again last night. You're right - it has a C5 butt grafted on - and to think it lives just a mile from me. There goes the neighborhood! Then again - the place it's parked at makes a salvage yard look tidy so at least it's consistent. Where are the zoning law nazi's when you need them?

All Z Car Specialist, 5101 Mosson Road, Fort Worth. TX (817) 483-0383. I've known Jerry, the owner, for over 15 years.

The litany of items that can cause the steering wheel to shake is semingly endless. Ball joints, tie rod ends, TC bushings, bent wheel, aftermarket wheels that are lug centric rather than hub centric like the stock wheel and weren't torqued down with the car in the air, loose rack & pinion, alignment, and tire balance are just a start.

BrandonsZ - that car doesn't even come close to being as ugly as what I saw Tuesday night.

Do you look good in stripes? Unless you do I wouldn't recommend any of those approaches. There are several threads on this forum on how to get your car through CARB. Do some searches and read up onit.

Pint = 16oz Quart = 32oz Gallon = 128 oz Therefore 1 gallon equals 4 quarts equals 8 pints.

Depends on the specific coilover set you get. 9.5 mm sounds reasonable but you need to confirm with the specific ones you're planning to use.

Oops. You should have a mating connector to the one on the ECU somewhere nearby. If not and the wires have been pulled out then you're definitely in trouble.

Patience young grasshopper. In time Darwin will cure.

Without a doubt I saw the ugliest car I have ever seen yesterday. I drove past it on the way to the gym. It was some kind of a full custom body kit, Ferrari side panels, etc. with a triple - yes I said TRIPLE - wing on the rear. Wheels and tires were inset about 8" from the edge of the body and it ws all primered. I couldn't tell what model car it was on. I'll take my camera with me tonight in case it is still there.

Sure - no problem - but even I wouldn't believe me!

Good piece of information to know. I should be good for another 6 years then at the rate I'm putting miles on the car.

Write/call here and get a factory service manual for your year 280Z - or you can contact Courtesy Nissan in Dallas, TX and they can probably sell you one on CD. Either way you'll have the wiring diagrams you need. Nissan Service Publications* (440) 572-7280 20770 Westwood Dr.* ******* ******* ******* Cleveland, Ohio* 44136 Attn: Photo copy ****** ******* *******

A properly set-up centrifugal should come on down around 2200 rpm, not 4500. Somethings not right with his installation. Go to the ATI Procharger website and look at some of the torque/HP curves they have for various engines and they all indicate lots of extra umph at lower rpm's.