jt1

Congratulations, Mike, I hope it works out well for you. Go ahead and put the Z in jail, you know you really don't want to sell them. John

John, do you think all 280 stubs are the same? I have *heard* that the 77-78 stubs are more desirable than the 75-76 ones, but have no tech on that. Any truth to it or just BS? Thanks, John

Jeromio, you might try a pm or email to Mark. I *think* he had his LT1 done in Charlotte for a good bit less than that, but I don't recall the details. John

I must have been on a major caffeine rush when I typed that last post. What I meant to say was that if you seal the air dam to the radiator support, then the radiator to the radiator support, and all the holes in the radiator support, I don't think you'll need any additional ducting in front of the radiator. Tim's looks better than mine, my car is rapidly degenerating into a track whore. I'll get some pics up today. Doug, if you like open track events, you ought to come dowm to CMP sometime. Nice track and well run events. John

Dan, thanks for relaying the info. John

Doug, I recently replaced my stock valence and chin spoiler with a MSA airdam. I was pretty surprised at my next track day to see temps much higher than normal. I used some 032 aluminum to fill in the hole between the airdam and the radiator support, then used aluminum duct tape to seal all the gaps, and all the holes in the radiator support. I then used some foam and more alum duct tape to seal the radiator to the radiator support. I didn't do anything between the rad sup and the hood, there's a big gap there, but time didn't allow it. WOW! Would you believe a 40 deg reduction in temp at the end of a run? I was hitting 240 before and it barely went to 200 with all the holes sealed. I was plesantly surprised. I can post some pics tomorrow if you'd like. John

Dan, if you can check those out and give some details I'd appreciate it, I'm contemplating a head swap and sweating the headers. Thanks, John

Sweet looking motor, a very nice job. How does the hood clear the tab on the LH strut tower brace? It looks like it would have to hit, or is it the camera angle? John

I'm all for keeping the L6/RB/alternate forums. There are a lot of good members here who choose not to V8, or are modding their L6 before going to a V8. I think they add a lot to the site, and would hate to see them leave. Forum consolidation? Maybe, but I don't see huge benefits there. Another car board I really like, moparts.org, has only two sections, Tech and general discussion. It works well, but you skim thru a lot of posts you may not have any interest in. cc.com style moderation? While I really enjoy cc, it is not for everyone and a long way from what hybridZ has historically been. ANY slight sign of ignorance there results in being thrown to the piranhas, and they are well fed. I fully support firing both barrels at people who don't search, use poor grammar & spelling, and don't keep their posts concise and to the point. Long winded circular diatribes are a sore point with me, as some of you may have noticed yesterday. I think stepping up the level of moderation here would improve the site, but not to the cc level. This is a great site. Let's keep improving it. John

Terry: Member BobH. used to have one of those Torsen diffs for a R200. Apparently they are a pretty rare bird, with something like 50 being produced! I know he was trying to find out some more info on it, but don't know what he was able to come up with. You might contact him and see what he learned. John

You will burn a piston. But it probably won't matter, because a valve will have already gone thru the top of the piston due to insufficent P/V clearance, from altering the cam timing. You will coast slowly to the side of the road, in a place with no internet access.

I've got a Quaife in my R200, and the end caps in it are reversed from stock. No idea why? John

Turn it hard enough to stretch the rod 0.015" to 0.025".

I wholeheartedly agree with both of the above posts. This is a serious tech oriented board, and it should stay that way. We don't want it to degenerate into some BS bLiNg crap. The mods have a tough job and they do it well. Common courtesy stuff like doing a search before posting, posting in the correct forum, and making posts clear and concise should be observed by all members. If not, the mods should broadside them. I also think self policing by members, within reason, is good for the general health of the herd. If sTuNnahZ want to post ignorant crap about their mAd sKiLz, let them do it somewhere else. John

Thanks Ryan. The Hookers won't fit a set of 292 angle plug heads I've got, but work fine on my current Trick Flows. The plugs on the Trick flows are only angled about half as much as the 292's. I wonder if the Sandersons fit the angle plug heads? John

Just wondered about spark plug clearance and exhaust port matching up. Thanks, John

It couldn't have gone backwards unless it came loose from the timing gear- So assuming it went forwards, it couldn't have gone far, maybe 1/8", before the timing chain hit the timing cover. It probably didn't go anywhere. Inspect the timing chain and timing cover closely, and add a cam button spacer to the center of the timing gear. It bears lightly against the timing cover to stop the cam from moving. Some people weld a reinforcing washer to the timing cover. John

Well said, Joe. John

Try and find a shop that does race car fabrication. A lot of the mainstream repair shops are going to shy away from that job. John

Where the heck is Ellenboro? John

Cool deal, jeromio, glad you got it on the road and had a good trip. Now you got to bring it down to CMP for a track day. John

Studs must vary too. On my current setup, 79 ZX MC with 74 booster, the studs protude about 3/8" thru the nuts. Oh well.... John

Dan, I don't know. There are at least 5 different boosters that I am aware of, and probably some more. I have wondered why a simple spacer between the MC and the aluminum piece on the front of the booster wouldn't help with the pushrod problem. Like you said, adjusting the pushrod is almost impossible. John

Sounds like a killer setup. Be sure to show us some pics when you get it fabbed up. John

Adam, I think you'll be fine with the ZX master, but it really depends on the piston sizes in the calipers. I'm using the 79ZX master with wilwood superlites, 4 x 1.75 pistons, on the front, and wilwood dynalites, 2 x 1.75, on the rear. It works great. I think you'll definetely want a adjustable prop. valve, before I put mine in I had way too much rear brake. John