2eighTZ4me

Cool. Just shoot me your PayPal address - or let me know how you wish to be paid and I'll take care of it. Thx! Tim

What's shipping to 30044? Where are you located? That thing should fold/wad up in a very small USPS box.

What do you want for it - shipped to 30044. Thx!

Looking for the external boot (with the bellows) for a ZX. Don't need the tunnel boot, just the exterior rubber one. Color not important, but would prefer black. PM me.

Is your expansion valve good as well? Budget.....hehe - we're Z car guys - we're cheap to begin with! I've got everything else. Just need the evaporator core, the passenger side hard line, and possibly expansion valve. Shipped to 30044.

Looking for a good evaporator core (under the dash in the center) and the passenger side hard copper line that comes off the core. and goes over to the drier. This is for a 78.

grretc - will do - it may be a few days - but I'll get some pics. Things are a bit hectic right now. Roger - YOU Da MAN!

I got a rather rare Momo steering wheel and adapter, and it's been beaten down by the sun. It needs to be recovered. Does anyone know if there is someone who provides this service?

That wipe pattern looks fine. You're more concerned about the cam to rocker contact than you are rocker to lash pad. There's a lot more friction going on b/t the cam and rocker than the latter. The "cheating" referred to in the RB article is getting your wipe pattern a little closer to the adjuster side of the rocker (away from the lash pad) - causing just a wee bit more lift. This is usually a .010" increment up in lash pads. So, if you had to err, err on the side of the adjuster instead of closer to the lash pad.

Need the hard lines that go in the engine bay from the firewall to the condenser and then from the receiver drier back to the firewall. I have a good compressor and condenser already. PM me what you have.

I have a set of .040" oversized flattops and a really nice MSA jet coated header with collector pipe and O2 bung. Round port. PM me if interested.

Nope - not yet. Can't replicate on the street. Will be at the Mitty this weekend and in the studio Sunday, so won't have time. Have another PDX event on 5/22 that I intend to find a way to secure my laptop and pull data logs. Always somethin' eh?

TEC3 DFU coil packs - I'd have to check to see what the dwell is set at. I just got a new laptop and it doesn't have a serial interface, so I need to run by MicroCenter and pick up a USB to serial adapter. That's on tap for the weekend...

Alternator is good. It's a GM conversion - I think the 90A model. Battery is a less than a year old DuraLast that tests out fine. Also have a voltmeter in the car that's showing +/- 14.5 volts at just over 1000rpm. Plenty of juice. There's also more grounds on the car than I can even count. At least 6 to the chassis and cage at different points, as well as a big junction at the front AC compressor mount bolt. I do see your point though, although I'm inclined to believe the spark is getting blown out. Only happens at a certain MAP point (which varies according to # of laps run). I have a test I'm going to try out. Since I can't get it to fail on the street, I'm going to gap the plugs at .040" and see if I can replicate it on the street. Barring results there, I'm going BACK to the track on May 22nd and hiding my laptop under the seat!!

I just got a hit on one about 60 miles away in a junkyard that "supposedly" came out of a 95 model. They said they'd crack the case so I can measure the gears, so I'll know for sure what I'm getting. $275 is probably a bit much, but it's the only one I can find. Thanks for all your help!

Nigel - I read your article twice. I clearly see the differences and advantages of the later box. I am not settling for the earlier box. I want reliability under power. I'm having a rather difficult time finding one, but I have feelers out to some of my friends who are junkyard rats, as well as a few JDM importers. Something will turn up eventually. Excellent writeup by the way!

Opinions / empirical evidence encouraged to determine the better of the two heads for a particular application. 3.1L stroker with dished pistons from a KA24. Given an identical cam and valvetrain setup, which would yield more power "out of the box" (meaning no port work) Secondly, referring to the scenario above, but with a (for argument's sake) BRAAP port job on both heads, which would yield more power? There are several thoughts plowing through my head from what I know and all the research I've done in the past. * Fact - both the P90 and MN47 have 42mm intake valves and 35mm exhaust valves. * MN47 has linered exhaust ports, while P90 has big open square(ish) ports. * MN47 has a 39.5 cc chamber, P90 has a 53.6 cc chamber ** With using dished pistons... - would the smaller combustion chamber on the 47 outweigh the advantages larger exhaust ports on the 90? ** Would cylinder quench (power) diminished on the P90 be able to be regained by being able to advance ignition timing over the MN47? I realize I'm green when it comes to these differences, but I am smart enough to know advantages and disadvantages of timing, flow and quench. Want to hear what the experts have to say about this. I know the exhaust liners are not "supposed" to rob flow, so does it really come down to port shaping and CC size between these two heads? (given all else is held constant) This should be an informative discussion and am interested to hear what the experts have to say.

Nigel - that is AWESOME!! Yes - I am trying to source a S14 box locally right now. Coming up empty, but I'm probably not looking in the right places. I think I'll have to try a Japan engine importer and see what they have.

I know Reeeky - transmission man gots some 'splainin to doooo!

Pop out - yes - but it's just been rebuilt. Brand new synchros and bearings across the board. It's never been run since the rebuild. That's why it's puzzling. Pulling the box soon and sending it back to the rebuilder for a "freebie".

After 4 laps at Road Atl, the car started missing. Water temp never went above 185, oil temp never exceeded 210. At lap 4, the car would start to miss under accel at about 7psi. Next lap, about 5psi, and for the rest of the session, it would miss at 3psi (and above) and would not accel any faster until I let off the throttle (at which time, all cylinders would fire properly). Car has just been professionally tuned by DIY AutoTune, and it runs flawlessly on the street. It wasn't until I got it on the track where I was hammering it constantly that the problem showed itself. Thinking the spark was getting blown out, I dropped plug gap from .030" down to .025". It ran great for the first 4 laps again in my second session, and started the missing thing all over again. I'm running NGK BPR7ES plugs. I can not for the life of me get it to reproduce on the street (without spending a potential night in the pokey), and I've beat the hell out of it on the street to no avail. DIY wants me to pull logs when it does it, but I can't get it to reproduce anywhere (it seems) but on the track. SCCA tends to frown upon laptop passengers on the track. I'm in a bit of a pickle here.... Looking for any possible things to try or look at to mitigate this for the next track day. Suggestions???

Tranny held fine, although I've got bigger fish to fry. After 3 laps, the motor started missing on several cylinders at 7psi of boost, and a lap later, 5psi, and then a lap later - 3psi. Can't figure out what's going on. On the street the car is great. The tranny has held 13psi with no problems whatsoever. Damn thing won't stay in 1st gear though....

Leave it to me to have the most screwed up setup......

Damn Ricky - that's a stout car at 330 in NA trim......what the heck is in that thing? Back to topic - I got the stock 5 speed in and everything seems to feel OK. Went through the gears up on jackstands - Works fine there. Haven't test driven yet - that's tomorrow. Going to put +/-350rwhp and 380 rw torque to it on Sunday at the SCCA PDX event at Road Atlanta - IF everything checks out on the street drive. Driving the car to the event, but my buddy's bringing the trailer .... just in case.....we'll see if she can withstand 2 - 20 minute sessions of somewhat sustainable abuse..... will report in Monday. Anyone want to take any wagers?

Looking for some cheapo used L28 std. bore NA pistons. They don't have to look great - they just have to be intact. Really don't want to spend over $50 for a set of 6. I do not need the rods - I have more of those than I can shake a stick at.