2eighTZ4me

Was able to drill out the tank drain plug and tap it with a 3/8" NPT tap. Magnet on a stick works wonders for trapping metal shavings as you work. Drilled from the bottom, while my buddy fished for flakes with the magnet through the sending unit hole. He had an old style Aeroquip fitting that was a 90 degree with a -8AN on one side and a 3/8" NPT on the other - a swivel fitting to boot. Put some teflon sealant on and she's good to go.

The end cap that covers up the outer CV joint where it meets the companion flange........ I don't know how I lost it, or where it is, but I need one......dadgumit... 87 300 ZX turbo axle...pray that it's not mangled..... the cap that you poke off to get at the tripod and flip it over. Or can I run without one???......probably not would be my guess.

Resurrecting this thread - I have a 78 that is going to be close to 400HP. Regardless of whether the tank to pump line is large enough or not - I want to go larger. I was thinking about a fuel cell type bulkhead fitting in the tank with a fuel cell style pickup hose (I have this setup on my racecar), such that I just drill a hole in the tank with a Unibit, and then drop in the pickup hose and bulkhead - but then I got to thinking - how am I going to tighten the back side of the bulkhead fitting..... SO - I'm thinking about tapping the drain plug on the bottom of the tank and installing a NPT filtting and then go with Aeroquip fittings to a -8 AN line. I know that most of the trash in the tank would flow to (and through) this spot, but the tank has been cleaned and sealed and I'm running an Aeromotive canister filter between the tank and the pump. I know the stock pickup goes all the way across the tank and picks up on the drivers side, but would there be any issues using the drain plug on the passenger side? Looking for options/ideas here. The tank has not had gas in it since it's been sealed, so welding is not a problem either. I just want a -8 line coming from the tank to the pump. What's the best / easiest way to do this?

Had the tank vatted and sealed, she's ready to rock. Just hasn't had fuel yet, so better to do it now while the car is mostly apart than to have to mess with it later. It's in the car now, but can easily come out....

78 280 - stock everything. Going turbo and MS. Hope to make 350rwhp. What is the most you guys have gotten out of your stock pump, tank pickup, and hard lines? No mods - just the stock pieces. Wondering if I need to drop the tank and have the lines upsized BEFORE any fuel goes in it....

PM sent.

So - will I need 4 of the gland nuts from MSA or just 2?

Sweet - thanks guys. I'll get the 3012's on the way today. Guess I'll have a full set of Blue's for sale here with springs in the not so distant....

Have a Ground Control kit I bought off a forum member here. Going on a 78 280. Car will be mostly street, but some AutoX and an occasional track day (when the real racecar is down). Stupid me ordered a pair of BZ3099 Tockico's for the fronts after all that I had read up on the coilover conversion - and then it hit me.....I'm dealing with a 280 this time - NOT my 240. Knowing the strut tubes are larger on a 280, I think I may have screwed myself. I've got a buddy that can section/weld my 280 tubes for me, and I'd prefer to use the stock parts I already have, so I'm wondering what my options are here? The 3099 is not going to fit snug in a 280 tube. I don't plan on slamming the car to the ground - I just want some adjustability for corner balancing. I plan on running 16" wheels for street - and I have a set of 15x8's wrapped in Hoosiers for the track. So - either I take the hit on selling the 3099's, or make them work somehow. I see all the recommended strut cartridges in the 'sectioning sticky' for 240, but it doesn't mention anything about the 280. What cartridges would I be looking for in a Tokico that would work in the 280 tubes and satisfy my requirements? I see a number of you have gotten really creative with your 280's...... I'm going blue in the face from searching!

Wow - I paid less than that for my full setup of Rebello worked 44's with intake, rebuild kits AND filters. Thanks for the link - but I just need a single body that I'd 'like' to pay under $200 for.

Have all the guts - just need a 44 PHH carb body. The body itself split right where it meets the plenum and doesn't appear to be reparable.

All - my mistake. The shaft should measure +/- 28" from tip to tip of the whole shaft. Yokes included. The latter shaft will be around 29 3/4" from tip to tip. I need the shorter 28" one. My bad - and another thanks to Nigel's post on Motortopia about the 240SX swap.

I've not come up with anything yet. What do you want for yours? I made a mistake in the ad - the measurement should be +/- 28" from tip to tip. Yokes included.

Bump - somebody? Anybody? You'd think these things were made of unobtainium! Thanks all!

Thank you 280Z-75. I shot him an e-mail. If he won't ship - I still need one folks - NASA race on Mar. 9th and I need a backup - help a brotha out!

For a 240SX tranny swap. Driveshaft is 50mm shorter than the later 240 shaft. Measures 23 3/4" from the shoulder to shoulder of each U joint....not center to center of the Ujoint, but from the top of the holder ring. Can provide a drawing if unsure. Thanks!

Hopefully with the brackets. Don't need the rear. Front only.

Garrett - I spoke with him yesterday - he's not too keen on letting it out of his sight. I'll ask him about a deposit though and see if he's willing to part with it for a little while. How long do you anticipate having it? Tim

It came with pretty much just bearings and synchros. I only have a "C" box rebuild kit here - else I'd give you the bearing #'s - BUT the kit is the SAME for 70-89 (yes the 300 tranny is listed as the same as a 280 - parts wise) - and they have the # on the kit - so they will get you what you need. These guys are a bunch of "Southern afficionados" (rednecks) - but they get their stuff right every time. Not had a problem - at least I haven't heard any problems from the guy that builds my trannys......and we've been through about 4 now.....

Just give them a call and tell them what you're after. They hand assemble each of the kits from a parts list that they have. Remember - these are car/industrial truck guys - websites are probably NOT their forte'!!!

The two trannies I did (that just sounds wrong in and of itself!) turned out good. All things considered. The one "good" trans is in my 280 behind a stroker motor and doesn't miss a lick - no grinds at all - and the bearings are all Nachi bearings. The other one had a bent shifter fork and still grinds a little bit from 2nd to 3rd under heavily loaded shifting , but is a LOT quieter than it was and is serving its' time behind a 83 Maxima turbo in my buddy's girlfriends car. I can't complain.....nor does she.

The place is called Southern Gear - they are located in Smyrna, Ga. I "think" they'll ship. You may pay $10 or so more, as I was getting my kits at jobber cost at around $90 - but it shouldn't be much more than that. www.southerngear.com/

Nope - Sunbelt's is now in possession of my friend John Williams in Buford. I'll talk to him about seeing if he'll loan it out. Seeing him tomorrow for other business. You're in Canton - you could just drive over and pickup/dropoff. OR - Sunbelt's ex-motor builder (Jeff Hanken) is in his own shop right next door to John's shop (and Balanced Performance) that he could probably do it there at his shop. I bet John would be more likely to loan it out if it's just going to the shop next door.....FWIW....

NewZed - those prices you got are mighty high. I paid around $100 for a FULL rebuild kit - bearings, synchros and all for my last rebuild. And to the OP - 2JZ260 - look at where the shifter attaches to both tranny's on the tailshaft housing. There will be very distinct differences as to how tall the "ears" on the shifter brackets are. There's a tall one and a short one. It should be easy to tell if the two boxes are of the same type.

Perfect! Thanks HowlerMonkey!