2eighTZ4me

Can someone confirm or deny if the oil bypass valve on a turbo car is blocked off with a plug to prevent bypass? I could swear when I took an 83 turbo motor apart, the valve was there and not a plug, however, I've been told by a source that there is a plug there on the turbo motor and not the bypass ball. I think he's full of it - but then again - my memory ain't what it used to be.

I think what Gollum implied was that - at the higher HP levels per cyl. - the effects of detonation become far more catastrophic with an inferior head design (from the 70's).

"I am somewhat skilled with electronics and plan to use the L28 sensor and integrate knock detection on the MegaSquirt." I spoke with Jerry (owner) at DIY AutoTune and he stated flatly that B&G's existing knock sensing circuit is a piece of trash and doesn't detect very well (if any) at all. They (DIY) are working currently on improving this circuit/sensor setup, but it is still in a beta phase. Based on my discussions with him, I decided to not even bother hooking it up (even though they wired my MS for it) - as Jerry tuned the car personally, and assured me I wouldn't have issues with detonation. Wait about 6 months and then start looking back into that option. They may well have figured it all out by then and have a bona fide golden solution by that time.

OK - upon viewing the video, oil temp was at 220 at the beginning of the run, had 50psi at 5K rpms. As the laps progressed, temps dropped considerably, as did pressure. I have to believe that oil was being diverted back into the block directly and bypassing the temp and pressure gauges. What I need to find out is where the pressure sending unit comes into play, and if I was bypassing the filter, would the pressure at the gauge fitting on the side of the block show a decrease? Knowing that I had decent pressure early on, leads me to believe that I had good pressure throughout the run even if it was being diverted through the bypass valve and perhaps missing the pressure gauge. I'll dig out the ol' FSM here in a sec and see if I can figure this out. Anyone want to chime in though - I'm all ears.

Freshly built stroker turbo motor. I have a turbo oil pump and one of the Wolf Creek adjustable pressure springs. It's cranked nearly all the way in. I get ridiculous pressure when the car is cold. At 2500rpm - it'll spin the gauge to 100+ psi and peg it. Once the oil warms up, it drops to about 10psi per 1000rpm. I still believe in my gut this is a little low. Bearing clearances all checked out perfect. Running Mobil 1 10w30 synthetic. At the track today, after about 5 laps, it dropped to around 20-30psi at 5000rpm. Was able to run three laps on the next session once the car had cooled 40min, and then back to near nothing for pressure. 50 - 40 - 20psi per lap. I can't understand the massive fluctuations in pressure. My NA stroker makes about 40psi at 2000rpm. I have an Oberg oil filter. I cleaned it this evening and it was pretty plugged up on the small screen. Again - motor has maybe 200 miles on it. My "supposition" is that the filter clogged so hard that it hit the bypass valve and diverted the oil. I'm running my mechanical gauge in the stock sending unit position on the block. Not exactly sure where that comes in to the loop - so that's the ONLY thing I can think of - i.e. the oil that was bypassing the filter was also bypassing the gauge out of the block. I say this, as I also noticed my oil temp gauge was not reading squat, and it happens to be just downstream of the Oberg unit. Even with the filter clean, I still think my pressure is a bit low. Would a high volume pump (vs. high pressure) suit me better? But in the end - high volume does equate to higher pressure, so I'm not sure if any benefit would be derived from swapping. Can anyone confirm or deny my suppositions? I did beat up on a LOT of cars today. Video to come in the Car Talk section soon.....

I had thought about one of those one piece wraparound wheel covers - but the wheel would be really fat. Nothing really to lose but to try it though.

Oops - didn't catch that one. All fixed. I don't care about cheapest route - I just want reliable - and it may well be that the HEI IS a good choice. Just feeling out the responses from what everyone else is using. Thanks for the catch!

Since I won't be able to use my Electromotive crank fire ignition on my 78 due to the AC bracket, I'm on the hunt for a 'better' ignition setup/distributor. Currently have a stock dizzy with a MSD 6AL box. That thing is a piece of shizzle. It has died on me twice and I'm tired of sending it back in for a $70 repair every time it farts. I have NO idea why I have to screw with my timing when just running a coil without the MSD box. I have to advance the timing an insane amount just for the car to run. But that's a topic for another discussion. So - I'm looking for another ignition setup that is rock solid reliable, and powerful. What are you all using, and with/without success/issues.

KnightoftheRound - that is my steering wheel exactly. No need for me to post pics - that's the one. Although yours is in better shape than mine!

BINGO!! That's the one. And it is a ZX. Thanks for the memory refresh. I seem to have cached it to disk in my old age! The Primadonna's look a LOT better than that cheap ZX. So - do you know what they did under the hood to the Primadonnas? Curious to know if I could take him on the track!

The hood vents are what threw me off. They look ZX'ish. I didn't pay a lot of attention to the car (I was distracted by the blonde!) OK - so you fart in my general direction! Silly English Knnnnnnnnnigggit! I can't tell but very few things that look S30 on that car, as it's so heavily modified. I didn't know too much about them at first, but thanks to your wisdom, I did the research and now am informed. Did it really sell for the $99K they were asking for it? I DO recall seeing a car on EBay for 100K that looks exactly like this car last year though. I gotta put 2 and 2 together. Again - it's just SO far away from an S30 that I didn't know what to make of it. Very talented builder though - just not a fan of the style. Any idea what's under the hood? They say "IMSA prepared" - just what exactly does that mean? Cage? Coilovers? I want to say they kept the stock motor with "some" mods, but to my recollection, it was the bodywork that sold the car. Thanks Leon!

AAAAND there we go http://forums.subdriven.com/showthread.php?4888226-ebay-FOTD-%28-71-Datsun-Primadonna-240z%29 Minus the top rear wing and the front spoiler - it is THE exact same car. The others are yellow, red, and black. This is the only white one out of the bunch. Tampa Fla. AND an E-Bay link in the top of the post??? Dated May of last year....hmmmmm. You'd have a REALLY hard time convincing me it's not the same car. But go ahead - I'll delve in with an open mind. The evidence/research just isn't working in your favor.

It looks exactly the same - AND the car was selling from Florida. Who's to say that it couldn't have made its' way to Fla. after the build..... it's now in NYC ain't it? Dude said he bought it in Florida.... I'm just sayin'....I'm doing the math. I still don't like the look of it... too much "fluff".

Wasn't that the ZX that was for sale on E-Bay last year for some exorbitant amount of $$$? Or is there more than one? And if so, the question would be....why??? I just re-read the post - Florida car - yep that's gotta be the one that had the slutty looking blonde hanging all over the car in the pics on the E-Bay ad. So THAT's how he sold it.....

Team Dirty Sanchez Datsun will be representing Northeast Ga. in a 69 510 4 door with an L28 F54/P90 stuffed in it. Wondering if there are any folks from this forum that will be doing the race this weekend. Looking forward to meeting some folks, as I know there's a lot of Z owners in the NC area.

Oil pan would lead one to believe that a crank or rod bearing has gone bad. Normally, you wouldn't see that if you just took off the oil pan. You'd have to disassemble the whole bottom end to get a good look at the bearings. Other option - which happened in my SBC loaded 260 was an intermittent wrist pin knock. It would be fine when it's cold, but once it warmed up, it knocked like a Jehovah's Witness at your door on Saturday morning. Oil pan area though, would lead me to look at the most common items that go bad (especially from sitting for some 13 years) and that would be the bearings. Especially if it sat for all that time and wasn't properly prepared to start up again. i.e. priming the oil pump.

I have stumbled across a superb machinist just north of Hiawassee Ga. in North Carolina. Milton used to work for Roush racing and now does circle track motors for all the locals (and beyond). He's doing my Toyo 22R motor right now, and his prices are ridiculously cheap, while his work is outstanding. You don't do crap work when your work for Jack Roush. I was floored when I saw the prices that he did for a fellow Hybrid Z'er for his stroker L28. Top notch in every aspect. CHEAP port work too - I believe it was under $250 for an L6 head. I can get contact info if needed.

Holy cow Roger - I forgot I even had this post out here! Welcome to getting old. Your timing is darn near perfect though. I ripped out the mule motor Thurs. night, got all the parts swapped over to the forged motor on Friday night (with the help of Jose' Cuervo) and dropped it in on Sat. (with Jose Cuervo reminding me that I shouldn't have enlisted his help the night before!) My buddy Danny (OlderThanMe) helped me get all the pieces back together. Ran into an issue with my Spal fan though. Turns out the harmonic balancer was rubbing on the bottom side of the fan motor where the wires go in to the motor, and it had about sheared them in two. Was able to make a viable repair and that's where I stopped. I've got about an hours worth of work to get the bottom side buttoned up and then get it ready to start. Probably try to fire it up Tues. or Wed. night. Then it's break in time and then off to DIY AutoTune to have Jerry work his magic. FYI - I found my ignition issue and it is corrected. The last PDX event at Road Atlanta was perfect. The 240SX tranny swap along with a good solid ignition found me beating up on some serious competitors...even with the mule motor. I also found out why the car would only boost to 10psi as well. When taking the turbo/exh. manifold off for the motor swap, BOTH vacuum hoses (the banjo fittings themselves) were loose, so the boost controller wasn't doing squat. Spring only. I'm hoping to squeeze 425 at the wheels out of this setup.

Are you getting any blow by out of the valve cover? When I broke piston skirts and ringlands due to excess boost, it was smoking like a chimney out the top of the valve cover.

Yeah - no - no documentation. The bikes were bought off folks that "went all in" like we do with our beloved Z's - at a discount, yet still near market value at the time, PLUS extra $$$ for the "goodies" that were on the bikes. Matt - thank you for the input. I think I have comprehensive on the Harley, but just liability on the Yamaha. I'm going to call USAA tomorrow and get some more details. I just want to be armed with information and know what questions to ask when I DO call them.

My buddy's house burnt up Thurs. evening. My two bikes - an 04 Harley 883 Sportster and a 93 Yamaha FZR600, were both in the garage being stored over there. They're totaled. I had insurance on them. USAA is telling me I've got a $1000 deductible on the Harley and and a $500 deductible on the Yamaha. I'm sure they're going to be a total loss. I can't even find the front forks for the Harley, and the Yamaha is buried under the garage door that collapsed on top of it. I filed the claim Friday morning, but the fire dept. hasn't "released" the property until the investigation is complete. I don't plan on replacing the bikes, I just want a check and to move on. Can someone explain to me what's in store for me next? I've never had to file a claim before (and I'm 45) so I don't know what to expect. Pretty sure some of you out there have had to deal with things like this. So, does that mean I have to shell out $1500 in order to get payment, or do they take $1500 off the top of what they would give me for outright value? I'm pretty sure I'm going to take it up the wazoo from the insurance company anyways. The Harley was dead mint with only 5000 miles on it and over $2000 of additional chrome accessories, while the Yamaha was a one-of-a-kind showroom custom with all kinds of go-fast goodies and a custom hand paint job. I've researched book value, and I know to stand firm on what they're worth, but I'm a newbie to this and don't know how the process works. Any insight would be greatly appreciated.

I got the package - perfect. Thank you!

Sorry about that man! I forgot to click "send money" Got it this time. Sorry about the delay - it was not my intention. I just got the PayPal receipt, so I'm pretty sure it went this time. Thanks again!

You've got cash. Shipping is Tim McGovern 583 Learning Ct. Lawrenceville, Ga. 30044 Thx!