2eighTZ4me

Yes Daniel - that's the exact boost controller. I had my MS modified by Matt at DIY to handle boost control. Works great from what I can tell. I just didn't dial it back enough before the track day to get the wastegate to come on. Yeah - I saw the turbo - it needs a rebuild. I will not by any turbo that "needs a rebuild" Did that once (actually the guy said it had no shaft play and was great) opened it up and the compressor wheel had dug a groove in the compressor housing from too much "shaft play". There were several fins shaved down on the compressor wheel as well from the grinding. Never again... I need a cheap T04E turbo at this point - one that I can bolt on and run. Anybody have any EBay suggestions? I keep plugging in T04E turbo and EBay keeps shooting back T3/T04E turbos. I don't have that funky bolt pattern that the hybrids have - mine is a straight 3" dump with a V-band clamp. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.

Update - Turbo shaft is broken clean in two. Apparently, the compressor housing is gone too. A race got knocked about. The guy that examined the turbo ( a turbo "expert") said that a "turbulent air mass" caused enough pressure differential between the turbine and compressor sides that the force snapped the shaft in two. No bluing - no oil starvation. Seals still in great shape - however, now I have a worthless paper weight. I have to ask you turbo experts - what in the hell could cause enough pressure differential to break the shaft? Is this the compressor surge that folks are talking about? I read the sticky but still can't get my arms totally around the concept. I have a cheap BOV ( and a brand new Tial MVS wastegate with a .5 bar spring) and I suspect that it (BOV) may be releasing boost under accel. How else could my boost gauge be going from 15psi to 5psi and then immediately back to 15psi in the blink of an eye? Throttle input was constant. Wastegate was set to 18psi and did not even come into the picture at that point. It did the 15 > 5 > 15psi thing at least 10x on the way around the track. It's not a fuel issue. I can rule that out with empirical evidence from my wideband, and the fact that I just rectified the fuel issue prior to this track event and now have a cockpit gauge. Running MS I for fuel only and a MAPDaddy II MAP sensor. I figure either the BOV is releasing boost when it's not supposed to, or the boost controller (GM style - bought from DIY AutoTune about 2 months ago) is acting funky. Something is causing boost dropouts. So - now I'm shopping for a new T04E unit. Just f***** great.

OK - wait a second. I was under the impression that ALL stock lash pads are .180" - regardless of the motor they came from. I've pulled them from N42's, P90's, N47's MN47 - and they've all mic'd out at .180. Someone correct me if I'm wrong - but all the empirical evidence that I've come up with from experience show this to be true. Have you tried Nissan again lately? I just put in a call to my parts guy at a dealership and he's looking for the 210s and 220s.

If it's burning oil - pull your plugs and have a looksee. Are they black and caked with moisture? If so, then oil is getting in to the combustion chamber somehow, either via rings or valve stem seals. Valve stem seals are easier to do than rings and you don't have to pull the motor to do it. Just need a few special tools. When you said temperamental - I immediately assumed electronics (support systems as Challenger duly noted). The plugs (not spark plugs - the actual plug connectors) on these things like to corrode and connections tend to fail - which causes other things to fail. It would behoove you to go through every single connection in the car - clean the connections with an abrasive of some sort until you knock off any and all corrosion and see shiny metal on the connectors. Then use dielectric grease all over the connections when you go back together with them. I can't tell you how many cars have suffered at the hands of corroded connections. The dielectric grease will keep moisture out and prevent them from corroding again for a good long time.

Well - I have decided that since the book only mentions the hole above the oil filter, AND the other one does feed the tensioner - I'm only going to expand the one above the filter and leave the front one alone. I'm also not going to go out to the full 3.17mm as mentioned in the book, but rather just out to 3mm even - from 2mm. I will realize a good increase in oil volume, however, I won't be dropping pressure as much (probably negligible) as I would going out the full Monty. Trying to find the happy medium, and I think I'll be safe in doing this with a turbo oil pump supplying the juice. Will be quite some time until the motor actually gets in the car and running, so it may be a while before I report back on the results.

The wrist pin is mashed up inside the inner portion of the piston. It didn't break completely, so extrication thereof will require a scaled down version of the "jaws of life". I'll have to get more pics of that though - the ones I have are fuzzy and illegible.

Hell no. You did your due diligence and directed me to where I could find the information. I always know if you can't find the info - you can certainly lead the cow to the pasture wherein it lies. BIG thanks to you. I must admit I was a bit nervous about calling them and getting them to divulge potential "trade secrets" (although it WAS printed in the Honsowetz book) but they were a nice bunch of guys and very polite. Wish ALL businesses could be like that nowdays. Now....where does that second damn hole go to!!!!????

OK - spoke to Frank at Ed Pink. He stated that the orifice that supplies oil to the head is the one above the oil filter. He stated the second orifice feeds the timing chain tensioner. I'm not sure, as I'm at work, but I'm pretty confident that there is a hole in the head gasket and a hole in the head that allows oil up into the head from that passage as well. I thought the timing chain tensioner was fed by an internal oil galley inside the block. I could be wrong (probably am) but that just doesn't add up. I'm going to have to crack out the online FSM and see what the oil routing diagram is actually. Bottom line - he said that only the one hole by the oil filter needs to be opened up - but I still want to find out what that second orifice feeds.....

Jeff Hankin - former Sunbelt employee.......

Honsowetz says the original size is a 2mm (.0787") opening and that if you open it up to 3.17mm (.125") - that you get 2.5x more oil flow to the head. I just need to know if I need to open up JUST the one above the oil filter, or BOTH.

Best we can figure is that "something" happened in the top end (water passage broke) and caused hydrostatic lock in the #3 cyl. The wrist pin broke in TWO!!! and caused the rod to shift inside the bore at 65000rpm. The rod snapped at the thinnest point and blew to holy hell the rest of the motor. (Lobbest thou thy Holy Hand Grenade - for you Monty Python fans) Can't find any empirical evidence as to exactly what caused the failure though. It's merely speculation. It smashed through the water jackets in the block and even wrapped the metal mesh in the PCV area of the block around the rod. There were no fluids to speak of in the motor once we got it out and apart a week later. So yes - this is one of those "Unsolved Mysteries". The piston broke the skirts on both sides, apparently the rod snapped early on (assuming the wrist pin went first - thinking a Spiro lock came loose too) and did the rest of the damage while descending from 6500rpm to naught - in a rather noisy fashion.....

I will take back the cost statement - it completely WASTED his oil pan - looks like a circular saw went straight through it - straight out of a horror movie! There are very few of those pans around, and he'll be hard pressed to find one. He called Wolf Creek this morning - haven't heard back whether he was successful or not.

Stock block - but FAR from stock internals. All forged goodies from back in the day. KTM - that's what happened to my turbo earlier in the day. Nothing audible at all - the cabin just started filling up with smoke and when I looked in my rearview - it was a white cloud as far as the eye could see. But yes - my carnage was nothing compared to his - although the funny thing - he'll probably get out of it cheaper than I will. He has boxes of spare parts lying around that can be used. Stock L20B rods, a couple extra pistons etc. The crank and head are completely undamaged. He's already sourced a (free) block from a friend, so he's out a bit of machine work and a couple gaskets/seals. I am taking my turbo off tonight.....we'll see what "lies beneath"....

77 200SX former GT-3 winning car (1978 and 1980) - SCCA race at Road Atlanta a couple Sunday's ago. Coming out of turn 7 onto the back straight - 6500rpm in 3rd - about to shift to 4th. 180 degree water and oil temp, 70psi oil pressure - just scanned gauges. And all hell breaks loose...... OK - looks like a decent hole through the side of the block. It blew the starter (brand new gear reduction unit I might add) into about 20 or so pieces. We found what broke......... What we DIDN'T see was underneath the header and carbs...... Took a hunk out of the cylinder sleeve..... And the other side of the cylinder bore. That - my friends - is a BAD / Expensive day at the track. He did this about 2 hours after I lunched my turbo. Datsuns did not fare well at the SCCA........

The Honsowetz book mentions opening up the oil hole in the block to .125" for more oil volume to the head. It also only mentions ONE oil jet, and that is the one on the oil filter side in the middle of the block. I didn't see anywhere where it mentioned to open up the second jet at the front of the block. Is it "assumed" that you open up both holes to that size? Or just the one? Need to know ASAP - block at the machinist's now.

Mine is sitting on the bottom side in the rear of my Lonewolf intake. Directly above the turbo. I'm sure it's getting some ambient heat and skewing the numbers a little bit, but on a 95-100 degree day, I see maybe max of 130 - generally 110-115 though. 3" intercooler.

Arizona Z-Car pan Stock pump Oberg double sandwich external oil filter B&M 8x10 oil cooler -10AN lines plumbing the whole system, and also have the Mocal oil thermostat that you recommended. Oil temp never got above 220 - stayed pretty much constant at that temp once I got it up to temp. I watched the in-car video 3x last night and studied the gauges. The oil pressure was the only thing that concerned me. Running Rotella straight 30w oil. I'm ordering one of Walrich's external oil pressure adjusters today. There are no kinks in the lines anywhere. Everything routed cleanly. The only thing that has a slight kink is the return from the turbo to the pan.

Did a PDX event yesterday at Road Atlanta. 8 laps in, the cockpit just fills with smoke. I look in my rearview and see nothing but oil smoke. Limped it back to the paddock and I hear this rattling noise. Revved the motor slightly and shut it off, you could hear what sounds like a few BB's in the turbo as it's spooling down. GREAT!! At the time of its' demise, oil temp was at 220, coolant at 190, however I did notice after watching the video that my oil pressure was only around 20psi unless I spun it up to 4K RPM, and then it would spike to 40. When the turbo seals went, I lost pressure to the point where it was reading a goose egg on the gauge at idle. I have yet to pull the turbo and disassemble, so I don't know what I trashed - but something is definitely trashed. Pics will follow when I get it off and apart. OK - so, not to make the same mistake twice - I know others have used turbos on road race cars. I'm not so sure I have the right turbo or the proper setup, or whether the Big Guy upstairs just doesn't want me to run a turbo setup on the track. Turbo is a Garrett .60 trim ( I was told - bought it used). MS 1 running fuel only - AFR's were great all day - never got above 12:1 under boost. First - is it wise to use a turbo blanket for a high stress application? Is keeping all that heat in the turbo for extended periods of time a good thing? I have one currently. Second, I have a -10AN return line from the turbo to the pan. It was a tight fit, so the steel braid hosing has a slight kink in it, but not enough to collapse the hose and shut off flow. I have an EBay feeder line off a Y block with the proper restrictive orifice going to the turbo. It should have been getting oil - but not inundated with it.....it's only a -3AN feed line with a -10AN on the drain side. I can't imagine it would be an oil volume issue (but what do I know!) I was running about 18psi of boost, but I was babying the car and maybe hit a couple spikes of 18-20, but usually kept it half throttle and didn't go much past 10-15psi. I did notice on a couple laps that the car would lose power in the blink of an eye and then come back on. You could see the boost gauge go from 15 to 0-5 and then back to 15 almost instantaneously. Wondering if it's that cheap a$$ blow off valve I have? Sorry to ramble - basically looking for any hints from anyone that runs boost in a road race situation. Water cooled turbo? Less boost? Go back to N/A? Seems like every time I go to the track, I trash something, yet I double and triple check everything prior to going to the track (and everything runs/checks out fine on the street) but the past 3 times, I've come home on the trailer........ (And to add insult to injury, had one of the tires blowout on the trailer on the way home)

Your fuel system should not hold pressure overnight. Think about it - it's a return style system. What fuel doesn't get used gets shipped back to the tank. This is perfectly normal. Try your second test again (clamp the FPR return and also right before the filter) and let it sit til you drop pressure. THEN pull your plugs and spin it over and see if you have any fuel squirting out of the plug holes. That'll show you which - if any injectors are leaking. I'd lean toward your check valve as being the culprit, as they have been known to go bad. Other than that - you've got a problem elsewhere. I thought I had a vapor lock issue - turns out it was a clogged filter. With 36psi of fuel pressure, you should not ever vapor lock. That happens (mostly) on low pressure carb systems where the fuel goes through the system very slowly, under low pressure, and has time to percolate. Even if your check valve was bad, the stock pump builds enough pressure quick enough to fill that fuel system in a matter of a second or two. Don't believe me? Pull the fuel line off the fuel rail and start cranking the car. It'll shoot out of there like a fire hose. You have a problem elsewhere. What do your plugs look like? Pretty car BTW!

I was able to get the Aeromotive issue worked out. I re-plumbed from the cell to the pump with -10AN line, and also removed the 10micron filter pre-pump and replaced it with a 100 micron filter. Put the 10 micron filter post-pump and it does great now. I do like the sound of that Bosch pump though - might use it in another car.....thanks for all your replies!

I replaced all the plumbing from the pickup tube to the pump with -10an. I had blown out the 10 micron filter that was before the pump with the air compressor, and that still didn't seem to make any difference. I replaced the lines with -10AN lines and replaced the 10 micron filter with the recommended -10AN inline filter - 100 micron. Everything is great now, but don' t know if it was the clogged filter or whether it was the larger input lines that made the difference. Would be willing to bet it was a clogged filter. Thanks to all that responded!!!

I have the MSD pump sitting on a shelf in my garage. Based on calculations, it won't be able to keep up. The Walbro however, is looking like an alternative.....

I just got off the phone with Brett at Aeromotive. He seems fairly confident we can make this work. That other post mentioned the pump getting too hot. Not in my case. I can touch it easily and hold my hand on it after at least an hour or so of driving. It's barely warm. He did mention though that the pump moves about 3 gal./min. so if you chalk up 30+ hours of usage, that's thousands of gallons of gas going through the filter element. I am ordering new filter elements today, along with a pre-pump filter. He also recommended plumbing the cell for -10AN fittings, of which I am only running -8AN, and that, he stated, is also causing a restriction. I asked if I would be better off with the 11106 or the new Tsunami pump, and he stated I would probably run into the same problem. When I asked about the voltage regulator device - his response was that it was nothing more than a CYA, and generally not necessary. He seemed more concerned about possible cavitation being caused by the fuel not being able to be brought to the pump in a quick enough manner. Hence - go up to the -10 hose from the tank to the pump. That's going to be my cheapest route at this point. He went on to say that even if I did go with the Tsunami pump, or the 11106, that I would still want -10 lines from the tank to the pump. I'm also going to get another one of those 1" gauges (that I can tell you distrust) and plumb it inline between the pump and the filter so I can see differential pump pressures between what the pump head is putting out and what is actually making it past the filter up to the rail. I'm relieved to hear that I don't have to plunk down for a new pump and/or voltage regulator - but yet cautiously optimistic that this might solve the issue. I'll keep you all posted in the coming days/week or so.

No - it's an AutoMeter Phantom gauge 2 5/8", and it checks out in perfect step with the 1" gauge too. Power loss - definitely, but I have my timing a bit retarded, and never build enough boost to get into detonation before it goes bone lean and falls flat on its' face. I've pretty much determined it's the Aeromotive pump. I should have bought the other one (11106) and not this POS A1000 - which appears to be only for strip usage. It has a caveat that you need to buy a voltage regulator to the tune of $320 if you intend on running the car for more than 30min. at a shot. What a crock of shizzle.......dang dang dang and shame on me..... they advertise it as one thing on Summit's website, and then when you get down to the nitty-gritty of the install guide - you find out ALL the other crap you have to buy to make it work right. I'm pretty sure that's the issue. Can't confirm 100%, but I'm leaning that way.