2eighTZ4me

I've searched quite a bit and can't find what I'm looking for. Perhaps my search terms are not the right ones..... Car is a 78 280. Anyways, converting over to carbs from EFI and will be using the stock EFI fuel pump. I have a good bypass style regulator and everything. I will be removing the entire EFI harness, ECU etc. This means I need a way to bypass the fuel pump switch on the AFM. It was mentioned that this could be done with a relay and a couple jumpers on the fuel pump relay. I just can't seem to find what all needs to be done to get over this hurdle. Anyone do this, and/or have pics (part #'s etc.) / tips that they could share? I know it has to do with pin 36 and 39 on the fuel pump relay, but what do I do to/with them?

I have no idea. They all basically serve the same purpose - direct boost through the carbs. I've not done any studies or come across any empirical evidence one way or another that would lend credence to one being better than the other. Supposedly though, the SK unit was created based on CarTech's design.

I happen to have an SK plenum like the one pictured above with the BOV if you're interested......

I am in the process of swapping my 78 over to carbs. I am pulling the fuel system out of my race car to accomplish this. Aeromotive requires a -8AN send and return line for the regulator to work properly. I'm assuming I'm going to have to poke holes in the stock tank to fit -AN fittings for the fuel lines. I want to keep the stock tank. Fuel cell is too much of a PITA. I don't know if the send and return lines from the stock tank are larger than -8 AN, so I'm assuming I am going to have to rig something up in the stock tank to accept AN fittings. Anyone ever done this? Got any pics?

Thanks for all the replies guys. I bought a 36" braided setup off EBay for $22, has the line, and the adapter with a 4AN fitting that has the restrictor in it, as well as a 1/8" NPT quad junction, I should be able to pull right off the oil pressure sending unit hole and hook up the sending unit to the junction. Problem solved! Thanks again.

Well - I DO want to run a braided line, but need someplace to tap off of. Thought this would be the solution, but perhaps not. I went on EBay and they had a kit with the braided line and sandwich plate, but the sandwich plate didn't fit the Nissan oil filter threads. He didn't have one that did either. Any suggestions? Was thinking about tapping off a line going to a remote oil filter, but was told I need a restrictor so as not to flood the turbo with oil. Corn-fused at this point...

Heck - I don't know what they're actually going for on the open market. $15 and I pay shipping? You can lambaste me for lowballing, but I've never bought one before, nor have I seen them selling as a "hot commodity". Let me know what you think.

Looking for the sandwich adapter that screws on to the oil filter nipple that has the output for the oil feed line going to the turbo.

How long did it take you to get everything hooked up and running? Threadjacking my own post here - but WTH... Looks like you still have a fairly stock setup - stock injectors, stock manifold etc?

Yeah, as you can tell I'm getting all the pieces parts together for the MS install. Trying to get the mechanical stuff out of the way first, so it will be more "bolt up" friendly when the time comes to take down the daily driver for the conversion. The MS looks rather intimidating - I chickened out and bought a pre-built unit. In theory, it looks fairly simple to hook up, but in looking at the wiring diagram with all the relays and sensors, it may be more difficult than I expect. I'll keep researching and reading though. This site is great!

Yes - I'm (going to be) using the Lonewolf intake, which has no accommodations for a cable. I have the 240SX TB. I also have a 60mm Weber TB for the L series. I guess I'm resolved (now that I take a closer look at it) to use a cable setup, as there's no mounts for the belcrank shaft on the LW intake. I can fab up an aluminum tab that bolts to the top inside bolt of the TB to hold the cable. I see you mounted your TB upside down. According to the article in Gray's Garage, the Top Cooled TB like I have should have the linkage on the inside of the plenum, and the TPS on the outside. I have the same Spectre cable that you got from AutoZone as well. My TB also has a second mount on the shaft for the cruise control cable. Thinking I will just remove that altogether. I guess whether right side up, or upside down, the TB is letting in air, and the TPS is still sensing where the throttle is, so it really shouldn't make a hill of beans' worth of difference. Thanks for the pics - that gets me started!

I pulled the TPS off my 240SX TB - the half moon bar that drives the TPS appears no different from the one on a regular L series TB. I already have a larger TB with a TPS on the L series now. I'm sure there's a reason why I can't just take the TPS off the 240SX TB (which has the 3 wire pigtail needed to interface with MS) and put it on my existing 60mm TB??

Love to see the pics. My dilemma is that I have a Lonewolf intake that has no provisions for mounting a cable, so I'm going to have to fab something up that bolts to one of the TB bolts at the manifold. Would love to see how yours is rigged up. Was looking at the TB last night and thinking how I could utilize a cable pull setup, so this is right on target!

Hot dang! That's it!! Thank you SO much!

They all come like that now. These parts have been sitting on warehouse shelves for eons now. Rust is almost invariably there. I've ordered many sets from Nissan in the past and they're almost always rusty. I just hit them with a wire wheel on my bench grinder and they cleaned up quite nicely. Oiled them down, installed them and have been doing fine for quite some time on several motors.

Dadgumit - I'm just going to go ahead and take the beating up front. I've been searching for over an hour for an article I ran across that explained in detail - with pictures - how to modify the 240SX throttle body to be compatible with the S30 linkage. I recall you had to take the springs off, trim the shaft, and rethread the shaft or something like that. Anyone recall what I'm talking about? I'll still keep looking....

Thanks Jason - I did find the gasket/flange/bolts on EBay, however, the place for the external wastegate pipe is blocked off. I'm guessing I either have to open that up myself manually, or there is another kit that is setup for an external wastegate. I searched through a couple pages and didn't find one that allows for that ext. wastegate pipe. In looking at the EBay turbos, I'm pretty sure I got hosed on this deal. Got the setup for $300 - WITH a bit of shaft play. I'm guessing "I" got the shaft....

I got it from someone on this forum. It doesn't look like terribly great quality, but should work for all intents and purposes. Sorry about the shots, did the best my cheapo camera would allow. In the picture below, I'm guessing I need a gasket to go between the turbo and the downpipe? Where in the heck can I source one of these? Here's the rest of the pieces / parts that came with the turbo setup. I have a pretty decent intellect, but can't figure out what to do with the blow off valve. Is that ding in the U shaped pipe going to be an issue? Forgive me, I'm new to all of this turbo stuff, and really hope I didn't buy a POS. So - any help would be greatly appreciated. I'm guessing a few things will need to be reworked - the shaft as a little play - not a heck of a lot, but "some", so I'm hoping I can at least use it for the time being until I can upgrade. Thanks all!

Maybe I just got lucky. I bought a set of Mikuni 44's (carbs only) and put them on a Canon intake. No prior knowledge of them, other than they cam off a road race car (2.8L) I have a 3.1 stroker and a fairly radical Racer Brown cam. I still have the customary lean spot coming from off-idle, but from about 2.5 grand on up, I'm at 12.8 all the way up to 7K. No bumps or lean spots throughout the rpm range - flat line all the way up to redline. The car is extremely street friendly as well. I "could" drive it every day - but maybe I'm a little more forgiving in what I can put up with as opposed to others.

Daniel - please let us know what you find. Maybe it's the picture, but that wipe pattern looks pretty good to me. Cripes - maybe I'VE got bent valves! You must have had the cam gear bolt back waaaay out for the gear to come off the dowel on the cam to spin and crunch a valve. I would think that the tension from the chain, and the rigid nature of the chain would have kept things lined up enough to keep the cam gear from popping off the cam dowel. You got lucky that it didn't drop the tensioner!

MegaSquirt on the way when I get my turbo motor built - slowly adapting the "performance" parts onto the car little by little to make the swapover a little less painful.

Finally got off my arse this past weekend and got the thing in and working. It's not too terribly ugly either. Temps are dead center now. Used a ZX lower radiator hose, and went to AutoBone and searched through their hoses until I found an "S" shaped section on a longer hose that would work and hacked off just what I needed. I just removed the base of the AFM completely and let the hoses hold it in place. All is good!!! I figured I'd post a few pics in case someone else runs into this issue.

Good choice Pete - that's what I went with, although my choice was dictated by having front and rear flares that are staggered, and the fit is perfect. Post some pics when you get them on. Are these going on a non-flared car?

My sentiments exactly. So, you're saying that there's no need for the zinc when running synthetic oil? However, you "would" recommend it for dino oil? I've got an old old old Racer Brown cam in the motor that I really don't want to tear up.

Also - I've been using Valvoline VR-1 20w50 and a can of ZDDP each oil change. You guys seem to lean towards the synthetic. Would Mobil 1 be the oil of choice? I'm assuming I'd still need to add the can of ZDDP with the synthetic as well? (Now roping this all back in to the original post) Will I see cooler oil temps with the synthetic?