2eighTZ4me

OK - after all this back and forth, I have come to the conclusion that I will GIVE this block away to the first willing participant. Come 'n get it. I don't need another project......

81 had the crank angle sensor - the 82-83 had the trigger wheel inside the dizzy. I'd be willing to bet there's a way to do it though....

Yes - and welcome to the club......although, my TEC3 coil packs showed up last week. Need to find time to get them in and working with the MS.....

I just sent my Japan stick to Delta cams. Ken recommended a 270-2 grind. I think it was around 470 lift with 112 LSA. $72 to regrind. Nitriding is about $100-$120 a stick.

Sparks - it is for sale. Make me an offer and come down and get the stuff. I'm just a straight shot down I85. I'll let everything go except the crank. Oil pan has been sold, flywheel / clutch and alternator have been sold. The rest I have in boxes. I have way too many items on my honey-do list to start futzing with another project. Come 'n get 'er!

Nope - they're identical. I wouldn't worry about miles on a set of rods. There's no parts to wear on the rods themselves. Only the bearings take the wear. And, hopefully you'll be replacing those anyways.

I know the block is taller, and the rods are 140mm, not to mention there's like a 1.5cm distance b/t the top of the piston and the first ring land......anyone ever futz around with one of these? Is there any "workable" combination that could be used in a gas type situation? I've harvested the crank for a turbo stroker, but would this block be a candidate somehow for a turbo motor of some sort? The rods are major beefy, and it looks like the wrist pins are the same size. Just tossing ideas out there. Curious to hear what all could be done with it (if anything).

The closer to the source - the more accurate the reading is going to be. Right at the Y collector would be the best bet. According to my tuner at Balanced Performance, you will show a little leaner the farther away from the source you get. We had to put one in my tailpipe last session, as the one I had on the top of the turbo downpipe froze on to the pipe b/c I didn't use antiseize. The second one I have is about 6" down from the top one. That is where my O2 sensor goes in for the LC-1. Had to do that because the pigtail on the O2 sensor wasn't long enough to reach the top bung. Regardless, the readings were within 2/10 of a percentage point across the board. Mine was a little richer, the dyno's was just a hair leaner.

Great - this is something I get to look forward to......

Thought I'd share.... http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/articles-turbo-system-intercooler/307563-how-bead-your-own-intercooler-pipes.html

So did mine. I could tell compression was down on one cyl. - and it smoked through the breather vents like a BBQ smoker loaded with meat, but it ran, made boost, and got from point A to B. Gotta give these motors some credit - they take a lickin' and keep on tickin'.. For someone to put a rod through the side of the block - that takes real ingenuity, or major stupidity (no oil). On the crank removal, just get all the rod caps off and poke the pistons out through the top of the block. (head off of course). Pull the 5 of the 7 main caps that you can. Wiggle them back and forth and they'll eventually pull out. The middle and the rear main caps are the biggest beeatch. You gotta get an 8x1.25 bolt and thread it down into the threaded hole in the middle of the cap. Then you gotta get a slide hammer (thread the bolt through the slide hammer with a washer and into the main cap) and whack the hell out of them. The middle cap will come out fairly easily. The rear one will take some time and muscle. I highly suggest you set your motor to TDC and mark the timing chain and gears (if you intend to reuse them) it will make reassembly soooooo much easier. Pull your timing chain out, and the crank should just lift out. Probably want to pull the front cover too so you have access to everything easily. I'm about to be doing all of this on Saturday. If you need help - I can take pics and shoot them your way.

The same amount of pressure that did this..... (sorry for the crappy pic) - that's an intercooler hose - a crappy E-Bay rubber one at that. There is no doubt in my mind it was detonation. Ben and I seem to be exploring the limits of these motors "on a budget". Cost me less than $80 to rering and new rod bearings. Already had a set of dished pistons from a Z motor on the shelf. Ben wasn't so fortunate - and we pray to the Gods of Manifold Absolute Pressure that they spare us yet again, as we commit our daily sins......

Ahhh yes - yet another victim of the boost/detonation bug. Not sure if you saw my post of the broken skirt in my #3. I feel your pain bro. Turns out I had flattops in the stocker and not dished like the guy told me. Have dished in there now and have hit at least 20psi on a couple occasions. I say at least 20 - my boost controller is not working properly, but my gauge is, and it pegs the needle at 20 and holds it there. Still waiting on the tuner guy to get back in town so I can get it up on the dyno and have a pro dial in the boost. Sorry to hear about your mishap Ben - sh** happens - and a lot mor sh** happens the more boost you add. Quite addictive isn't it? You gave up smoking - you'll NEVER give up boost!!!

I'm running an Electromotive HPV-1 crank fire ignition. No dizzy to mess things up. It's about as solid and reliable ignition as you can get - aside from the fact that it's old and doesn't have much adjustability for backing the timing down under boost. Looking in to replacing eventually, but not in the cards just yet....

I just ordered 12 of those bad boys from a small engine parts dealer. Lawnmower plugs eh??? This oughta be interesting. Howler - I don't know if they've got a V in the ground electrode. Can you tell from this link? http://www.mfgsupply.com/m/c/BPR7ES-11-BOX.html?mv_pc=Froogle

510six - I believe you are 100% on the money with your analysis. My wastegate wasn't opening, as I had the boost targets set on the high side - next thing I know, the gauge is reading 20psi, and that was that. Live and learn I guess. The motor needed a once over anyways. Methanol is looking like the route I'll be going eventually. Either that, or go EDIS and let MS control the timing too.

I've gotten mixed timing numbers from many folks on this forum, so I don't know really who to believe. I'm pretty sure it was detonation that killed the piston. I have since dropped back on the timing to about 22 total at 5500rpm. I have also decreased my boost duty targets until I can get it back to the dyno for the final tune. Add insult to injury, the brand new Spec clutch that I bought is slipping under extreme boost. Gotta figure that one out before going back to the dyno. It's always somethin'......

Skirts broke (my guess) from either detonation or lean condition. The car has been tuned for lower boost (rather rich, I might add), but I found my boost leak and buttoned that up and was taking it for a jaunt. When the boost hit in 3rd gear at about 50mph, it broke the back tires loose and the motor just shot to redline. I didn't have a chance to look at my mixture - it all happened so fast. Taking it back to the tuner as soon as he's back in town to have it all straightened away with more boost. I can't help but think though....I'm not using MS for spark control - I have a (rather antiquated) Electromotive HPV-1 unit for spark. I would normally be detonating at anything over 34 degrees potentially, but I've got it set for 18 degrees initial, 30 degrees at 3K, and then it backs off 3.5 degrees from 3000-5500RPM. That puts me about 26.5 degrees at anything over 5500. Rev limiter is set to 6250. That's not really a heck of a lot of timing to cause detonation. My mix under 5psi boost gravitated toward the 11.8 - 12.3 area, and the several pulls I did at 10psi showed very similar mix readings. So - I honestly don't know what broke it. Things that make you go "hmmmmmmmm".......

Time for new rings AND a #3 piston..... although the rings looked fine. Went through the motor Wed. and replaced pistons with a set of dished pistons (these were flattops, and I was told they were dished) new rings, new rod bearings, ARP studs and the motor is back in the car awaiting the tranny. HowlerMonkey - you were spot ON!! I didn't hear any slap, but man was she smokin' something fierce. So there you have it - I broke it reeeeeeeal good.

Rock on man!! Best of luck with that broken bolt!

Can't get no better than the Right Stuff - that's the name I was trying to think of!! Great product.

Soooooo - how's the leaky leak?

I'd also chime in that Eastwood makes products that are actually a little better than POR15. You start with the Rust Converter, and then go back over with Rust Encapsulator - then after that, you could hit it with their Chassis Black with ceramic in it - and you're far better off than POR15. I hit some rust spots on my truck (which stays outside in the elements 24/7/365) with just the Encapsulator, and 5 years later, it still has yet to show any signs of coming back (rust that is). Everyone uses POR15 as the "industry standard" when it comes to rust protection, however, there are better products out there. Do a little research on POR vs. Eastwood stuff and I think you'll find the evidence to back up what I'm saying.

I have a set lying around - however, they're oversized valves. 44mm intake and 38mm exhaust. Not sure if you're wanting to go that route with machine work etc. - but I have a brand new set in the box - AND I'm just outside Atlanta. - Tim