PMC raceengines

I remove them every time

Gordo at work in the 240z L28

Gordo has been running very strong , the chamber shot is his head after i worked it over , there is a few youtube vids off it racing aganst a gtr and other sports cars at PI , its a good L28 that one

stroker race port this port made 370hp engine

[ attachment=46362:15-05-111.JPG] N42 road race engine 2.8 made 320hp

AS for dim wits i know the LY is not just for looks ,,, you sir are a ass some times .. it looked like the copy from the pics and the head we have at work ,,, but i am wrong the plugs are on the wrong side to be a rb20e, im wrong i thought it was a the copy looks very close to this ,, and it does not go any where like the LY works engine ,,,

All bolted on a L bottom end n42 block and they dont make 300 na not even close ,,,, ITs all about the look boys the copy that is crap ,

LY twin turbo setup , im sorry i thought its was a coppy , there are many bad coppys now , people using rb20e heads to look the same ,

We make up a cam , we weld up rb26 cams and do a NA grind , we coppy a LZ nissan works grind 76 or if we want a real hi rpm skremer we do a 80 works grind ,,,, wade cams in melbourne does them for us .. i built them for my rb26 head on a L block motor , i went for the 76 ex cam and 78 inlet they will rpm to 10000rpm

Will be in the car after chrissy will be a cracker 3.4 12.3 comp all the good stuff

What you are missing is the head well not be parallel as soon as you try make it right it will twist as soon as its heated and stress releved you will need to have it planed again that why its step 1 it will move 10 to 15 th... So that why i said start over .

start over mate this head is no good now , you have to do it right from the start. 3 steps to make it right if you start at step 2 and 3 , step 1 can not work , with out step 1, step 2 and 3 are never right stress points in the head must be releved to remove the twist then it gets planed flat . not any other way can it work

if it was fixed right the first time it would have been a good head ,, crap work in the shop , its not the blokes prob your shop is crap

Its commen to fix heads that are twisted and bent , i find it hard to beleve that shops there are so in the dark , this is normal engine reco work , ,,, saying that if the skill level is so bad in your area just get a new head and start over by your self , a straght edge and some hand tools and your away just like all the engine men in your area by the sound of it

like i said not twisted .... no point just planing both sides it has to be fixted before you start removing ally 3 steps make it straght with heat or a press, i like the heat option then when its straght plane the head face then the cam side to make it spot on .. i have seen many heads that are not right , and any good shop can fix it , the cam towers should never need to be worked over , only when there damaged do they need work , this case its the head ... your shop has no idear what there doing

Yep lol its how i started on my path i read that book 50 times ... The truth is if the head is straight top and bottom and not twisted ... yes not twisted then the cam will turn 9/out of 10 times as it should, some times the cam towers need some love.

i do this every day lol we have a bar that runs thro the towers , most datsun race shops do , the cam spins with a flick off the fingers when done right ,,, but the head has to be dead flat before you start , this seems to be hard lol for some , all simple engine building work .

one i just built for a friend rb28 stroker 700hp engine 18psi

You could go 0.020 fatter on the shim and get closer the back side and get a bit more lift from it

Looking good mate , will work a treat

The exhaust port in both heads , are ok with mild mods and just blending , its the inlet that needs work , and the 44mm intake will make 300 hp with a stock valve , its only small gains with a bigger valve with a big bore with a small bore the 44 mm is spot on , working the seat and short turn and some blending is all you need in your setup ,

There a $1 part from nissan and i get then all the time from them

In our strokers i go throu 5 blocks to get 1 that will go to 89mm , its getting hard now to go to 89mm , iv only had about 3 f54s that have made it and it was only just , i have seen some 90mm N42 blocks

before giving advice make shore you have a idear about the subject ,,,, Some f54s are so thin in the bore you are lucky to get to 88mm ,1 in 3 do not have any wall in them and sonic fail , its the N42 that will take a big bore most pass the sonic test but most times i have to move the bore to get wall thicknes to get 89mm because there the block that is Siamesed you can do that .... f54 is a better block for cooling because water flows around the hole cylinder and this was a better thing in the turbo engine , but in big stroker engines with big bores the N42 is the block to have

5500 is a cnc port head with big valves bronse guids new seats new springs new light highside retaners new cam and full cnc chamber rework and all set up ready to bolt on and race , there a great thing because the port is the same on all and it saves my hands and arms lol , is it cheeper than a hand port no, but the time we put in to the head to make it right needs to be payed for and i like to be payed for my work