Modern Motorsports Ltd

Thanks Erik and guys, I just talked to the car's owner Kelly and he's sorted on his order placed yesterday aft and some other needs! Many thanks for the offer Pat. Looking fwd to updates on this car:icon31:

Andy F, you're not related to Andy S by chance are you? We're just consolidating AS's order with a UK vendor order and it's very similar to your request billet front/rear etc. Yes, the zero flange is same location as stated. You have to make sure you have a matching brake solution in hand to go with the bolt pattern change when going 5lug. We've got a couple packages for this and can go custom if a different hub from the zero offset/ Cobra or Z31 5lug is desired. Do drop us a direct email please as then all info/correspondence is tied for optimizing our service to you. Pete, thanks for the update. We got your order last week and sent you an email invoice/cost with shipping confirmation by email last week but hadn't heard back from you to date. I've added your info to your webshop order comment field and we'll look out for some more flanges from JJ:) Busy/active club you've got in your area, they're quite lucky to have both of you so involved! Please send any future updates via direct email please. No post whoring here from us of late as we're busy addressing orders directly via our site functions etc. Cheers,

Joseph, got your order Thursday and separate payment thanks. It's processed and all shipped or shipping today, you'd have liked that update I'm sure:) Our apologies we didn't update you but it's all cranked through, you might even see one of your packages by end of this week:cheers:

Never been likened to Iraq and don't see any relation their Les. We've got your emails which started Thurs. evening and it's Monday night now including a weekend. Fortunately it's filling other requests and getting orders out to others including some vendors on this board that keep us busy:) (including some brakes that went to the old guy )We'd love to reply same day but sometimes it takes a few days to get too all emails depending on work queue, and your chaser email's fine. ALL our brake setups utilize factory ebrake/hand brake easily FWIW. Thanks for the support guys and you've got mail Les.

Whew, that's one slammed Z Tom! Your struts must be sectioned notably more than the usual to retain proper piston travel for appropriate bump and compression. (I'd verify that - it's critical!) Did you verify their is no compression available at static rest, or very little? (as engineers we get picky on not assuming) Your info supports that but we don't want to assume. Jeromio - Tom's ~ 15 degree up angle plus any squat due to load which increases this angle further puts his CV's in similar position to full droop compression (similar angle/just upwards instead of hanging down) you experienced with your home brew setup prior to your change to our flanges. So makes sense. It's just not typical for a Z to be this low, quite a camber curve. Tom's got high spring rates and Koni race inserts from ourselves to help control squat/wheel travel for his hardcore track use/desires he indicated, but this doesn't eliminate it's presence and effect on the suspension travel. Angled down and outward as John C's guided us is a preferred camber curve and it puts the CV's into a longer position at squat which is favourable. Tom's is different from this. Your axle will be in fine shape. Just make sure you can achieve a desired camber setting appropriate for your build/tire types at that new wheel location and it's not excessive. Typically lowering increases your camber and your specific very low setup is reason our adjusters on our control arms (shipping info finalized on those/emailed as you requested) have capacity to shorten inwards as some would want to bring lower portion of wheel inward. (particularly autox with small OD wheel/tire combo's lowered notably). In addition, make sure your new proposed wheel/tire location (ie. perhaps 3/8" outward move) does not interfere with inner fenders etc.

What's the available travel on the axles Tom? This was in my prior response your 1st time around but I didn't hear back any followup after 2nd install? Your suspension moves up/down and CV's have to have some travel, was this checked at all? I recall your car was race prepped for track etc and lowered, depending on control arm/suspension mod's the axle may be compressed but from your rocker heights I recall this should be alright. These are on many other track and street prepped Z's without issue so something's unique in your build vs. the others. Specific Z31 setup was actually pioneered by road racers in Ontario on track specific Z's without issue in the shortened position long before we made it available. Alternatively depending on how far your car is lowered perhaps it's putting the CV's into unusual angularity. Typically optimal angularity is not an issue but your setup's created something unique. What's your control arm angles at static rest, pointing down and out about 10-15 degrees for good suspension geometry? Or pointing horizontal or upward? If horizontal or even out and upward then shafts might be being compressed to limits in an angular position. Typical rear geometry on a Z sees rear suspension with control arms angled out and downward and CV's similarly. Then in compression the control arms come near horizontal/similar to CV's and this puts them near their longest position with maximum travel. Lastly, the quaife comment here is excellent and a likely possibility if it's been fully unloaded and lifting your inside tire at high torque. Was a long time ago (ie. 90's) when I'd read of an axle snapped due to rear being unloaded/lifted with a quaife. Not a common discussion point as the racers pull all stops to keep all 4 glued down as best they can I suppose.

David, your late note of the 25th's been answered. We could certainly tool up some more adjustable 280ZX TC rods. Just respond to our email if of interest:wink:

Ryan, dime q's answered;-)

We've only had a few questions on this over the years. Obviously more out their that had similar questions, great to get this covered off:burnout:. It's easier to see proper geometry if our ebrake adaptor (full package) is purchased, then the end is fixed to caliper actuator. Your clip should be oriented as Hanson notes, same as they were factory on rear brake and front/rear brake line to frame unions etc. The 'tang' of the U clip should bend/fold away from the caliper e-arm bracket and be oriented across the opening of the bracket it's being fixed to. (the U of the U clip should be oriented 180 degrees to the e-arm, ie. install it straight on, don't twist it 90 degrees after install as shown in your last pic). Your U clip should fit your cable sheathing properly, if not that's a separate issue. (ie. don't need to wrap your sheathing at all as long as it's fitting the U clip). U clip fits groove as per usual. "bind the U clip to the ebrake rear fixed bracket opening." Then bind U clip to the ebrake arm end it's sitting against. No pinching of the opening necessary, as long as you bind the clip to the caliper arm then it won't go anywhere. Pinching the opening may prevent your sheathing groove from sitting snug against the caliper ebrake arm. In summary you require the U clip in the sheathe (same as OEM ) and fixed against outer face of caliper e-brake arm so it can't pull the cable sheathing towards your differential (similar to OEM, some may require a few wire wraps). Tonight I can put together a pic of a U clip wired to the caliper arm if that would help.

Just got a customer email referring us here for someone requiring aid. Aaron, please do drop us a direct note with any other questions on our packages we've set you up with CV adaptors looking fine. We're always keen to support our own products, customers. I believe your photo indicates you've got the location of your clip reversed, just move it to the other side of the fixed ebrake arm on the caliper. When the ebrake is used the U clip has to hold the cable sheathing fixed to that arm so only the inner ebrake cable itself moves. (as long as the clip is fixed in the sheathing OEM slot, and fixed to the caliper ebrake fixed arm) Some cable sheathings can be a bit smaller and the easy fix is to use a small piece of decent wire to bind the U clip to the ebrake rear fixed bracket opening. A simple few snug wraps secured and it'll never move. It goes into compression when ebrake is activated so the wire just needs to hold it/not take any force. Our webshop/installation info has some good photos etc. I'll paste in the one of the full ebrake hookup (no wire necessary in Pete's install). http://www.modern-motorsports.com/catalog/product_info.php?products_id=2 within webshop package is link to 'another customer install' http://zhome.com/ZCMnL/tech/Calipers/zbrakeupgrade.htm Any other questions please let us know by direct email. Cheers and good luck with the rest of your install.

I'd count up the replies over last month if I had time:D. David, we'd sent you a note, a while back, not sure what happened with it but just resent. Please drop me a note as soon as you get our resent email so I know for sure you got it. We've been very actively emailing and shipping right through the summer etc. Still lots of builders targetting track weekends and shows still ongoing right into Sept. for rush last moment orders. Our own BC Nissan show this coming weekend on Sunday we'll have full product display as usual at in Vancouver as well as an enjoyable day at the autocross on Saturday. Cheers and hope you all enjoyed your Labour Day weekend!

Tom, great to hear you got the car together now! I'm assuming this is same package we sent out Mar/05 and then discussed some install details with your install shop in Aug. same year? Are you certain yourself or the shop completed the typical Z31CV axle shortening procedure on your axles? If not they could easily see compression travel limit and a failure could then occur. Send me your current email and I can resend the PDF we sent you in Dec/04 if you need the quick DIY bench shortening info. Those same type axles have tolerated 9.3 second 1/4 mile passes (3.3 0-60 ft) on one of our Australian customer's Nissan's. Typical conditions should not cause any issue with the Z31 CV's, they've been very well proven as an excellent Z car solution. Feel free to drop us a direct email to discuss this further if you like. We can help source a used replacement or build a new center custom billet bar etc. Not too far from you, Roger at www.zbarn.com may have some available, he's an excellent reputable and very fair source for used Z parts we often refer customers to for cores etc. PS, as I recall, factory clutch type LSD's had a typical preload of ~35-40 ft-lbs. (with car in the air, and one wheel locked, only takes 35 ft-lbs force to break free your other wheel from the LSD clutch action). Autox's (I know Ron did this at least once right Ron?) may wish to have this tightened up to a higher limit approaching 90 or 100 but with that comes quicker clutch wear as well and the LSD clutches are a pricey replacement item. Hopefully your LSD is fine. We did just have one 3.7 R200 clutch type LSD come available by a customer upgrading his rear to billet components and a quaife setup if indeed you do require a clutch type LSD. Either way please do let us know what you discover and if we can help, cheers.

Vinh, found your note! That's a very old non domain email address of ours/please reply to one we sent from or go through our site email:) Didn't even know we were still receiving on that old account! You've got mail:)

Cruez, sent your reply on the 12th. Jeromio: thanks for your impulse, hope it occurs again Webshop transferred domains earlier this week and had a couple items still pointing to old server for about a day's time. Orders have been streaming in fine since evening of 13th with some shipping out yesterday the 14th. Please drop us a direct email with any questions or site hiccups you may encounter.

GeeZ, sorry your note/s haven't been fully addressed. We try to address all in a timely manner but with summer rush of Z owners racing/cruising/showing etc full on we've certainly been busy and can't always catch all new emails in a timely manner. Your inquiries certainly important to us. Orders have been very actively heading out of here to keep Z builders enjoying their package updates during the summer fun season. Responses to your rear disk inquiry sent out tonight John. Cheers, Ross

Jerry/John - we've had your cores 2 weeks tomorrow, (not a month) and will be shipping shortly. We received your email on the 13th/replied same day with delivery timeframe info (7-10 business days typically to process, today's 10th bus. day since we received) requesting a confirmation reply. No reply received/ we resent on 16th and have had no response indicating our emails get through Jerry's system. Nothing awry on our end as cores continue through their process as planned. Our shipdate is ontrack with original estimation. I'll email you at your email John , hopefully it gets through fine as Jerry's seems to be filtering our emails out. You'll be enjoying the CV Adaptor package shortly:grin: Our billet setups are for those wanting their bulletproof strength and function with on the shelf shipping. For our core based packages we have to allow the timeframe for core processing. Drax/Richard, you got same day or next day email responses May 29 thru June 1st when your order was confirmed and shipped (prior to payment). Just got your exchange set we received cleaned up. And I've got nothing since that date from you except an info only dyno/tuning email? I searched our system that even keeps all filtered junk for 30 days and nothing from you hiding anywhere. Please send your inquiry through, naturally we want to see it:)

David, sounds like you're closer to getting back to your excellent function you had prior for the last few years before these recent control system changes. For info of others, none of our brake setups are touchy, proper results is quite the opposite experience! The rear is 11-3/8's and well matched with the front, this is long proven with many successfully enjoying this exact brake combo with 7/8's and 15/16's MC's. Others may not be aware, but you've run the combo for ~ 3 yrs now with excellent results - outbraking factory Cobra kit cars as I recall from one of your feedbacks! Your original setup you customized with dual MC's. What I understand you've changed this spring is : went back to the factory '73 brake booster 'upgraded' to the 15/16 master (only an upgrade if you truly prefer that pedal feel, an optional change from the 7/8's factory piece) removed the factory safety valve and prop valve installed new custom front lines to move them away from the headers installed a wilwood prop valve inline for the rears I would look at the integrity of all your changes you noted in above points. Your front and rear brake packages are complete themselves and work excellent as a system with a factory MC as you've changed to. Proven on your car and others in recent years, whether with 7/8's (yes, 7/8's), 15/16's or dual MC's. You've eliminated at least one item with your reaction disk apparently. Are you certain that booster is perfect in all other functions? Any chance any junk got into your brake lines/prop valve during all your line/MC changes? My inclination is you're not getting proper rear pressure so front's are doing excess reaction work and they're getting excess pressure. Could be caused by disfunctioning booster/MC and/or junk in your brake lines/distribution block perhaps including your prop valve? But hard to know for sure. It would surprise me as I know how detailed you are with changes but perhaps some grit got in somewhere or the booster/MC combo itself isn't behaving 100%? Please drop us a direct email to let us know how you make out and we'll see you through to your return performance. Your last email inquiry via our site had an email reply address of , please let us know current email and we'll update our records. Are you going to Texas for the Convention? Lots actively completing their installs right now in preparation for the convention! We've got some products available their from our suspension and billet drivetrain lineup included in their event auction for charity, a few excited about the opportunity! Cheers David and we look forward to hearing back from you,

Joey, I see Steve answered your question. We can certainly still set you up with the appropriate KVR pads for your caliper. Any questions drop us a note directly. Cheers,

Cyrus, I believe you're asking if the CV bolts are same as the rotor to hub bolts? The rotor to hub bolts we supply are the same as the OEM nissan ones you had with prior factory setup. These are not same as the R230 CV bolts. Our CV hardware is packaged separately from rotor hardware etc and typically labelled as such. Looking forward to a direct email from you.

Cyrus, those would be your R230 bolts pictured, should've been 24 w/ matching lock washers etc of those in the one set. Your front rotor hat bolt set is 10 Nissan rotor bolts with washers included, they're an off gray Nissan finish. Drop us a direct email, I want to hear your photo set update

Cremmenga, are you familiar with our product line? We've got complete drivetrain/brake and suspension solutions. You'll definitely need a very stout driveline and responsive brake/suspension system for your build! Last Saturday we had a customer running 9.38 @ 149 in the 1/4 with a 1.337 60' , all possible only with our billet stub axles and companion flanges! He kicked all skyline and supra butt at his meet in Australia and he's in line for the national title now! Our suspension and brakes are well proven also, John Coffey's just installing the works on an autox build for a customer. Drop us a direct email and we can certanily get you setup.

You're welcome. We prove out our packages before production, only additional benefits typically arise with time. "low production casting variation" this was a Datsun OEM rear strut that was odd, not related to our own product which has been very consistent just to clarify for those that haven't done same research you have. I'm not sure if you're pleased or shocked at the $70+core, that's a fine price for a rebuilt rear caliper. They're often not picky about cores received. This is your brakes, and a bit of dough is well invested here:) Like the old saying, a $50 helmet for a $50 head

???No truth! We've had this package out for a number of years now' date=' I'd be surprised if it's not on a Z with coilovers in every state by now. This setups on many track cars, even one locally that's slammed so excessively it's on the bump stops but no brake concerns. A large part of my early bracket design effort was to greatly improve ebrake geometry over the old 280ZX transplants and this was achieved by the non-symmetrical bracket pairing. Noone else has this, let alone the use of the 11-3/8's rotors which alone yield 14% additional leverage/plus swept area for improve thermal stability etc/clearance for CV axles etc. Many other pros/cons our 240SX setup vs. 280ZX setups discussed on this old writeup I've had, http://www.modern-motorsports.com/xtrainfo/reardisk.htm I don't understand the ebay sellers 'savings' reference. In fact his brackets are more $ than ours. Looks like he's made a nice part if one has to use 10" rotors to clear 14" wheels. Even so ours have been tweaked by customers to run under 14's and some have done so without mod's. I would not use 25+yr old parts yard calipers without a full rebuild including ebrake, big reason we went with the 240SX calipers of which our customers have still been very consistently finding in the parts yards in fine shape.

The diff mounts will be forthcoming by early in the new year. These are combined with our focus on front control arms to complete our rear LCA setup. (bit off topic, but I'm pretty pumped as one of our customers just ran a few 9's this past weekend in Australia on our custom stub axles!! He's running an 80's Gazelle (our 200SX), 2 litres, 600hp and 1.4 60's!! These stub axles (not 280Z units) also fit R31's and Z31's. Previously his OE stubs were always breaking repeatedly in the 1.5 60's. ) Cheers,

They won't bolt in and if they did it would not be an upgrade. We've done billet 280Z stub axles as customers have snapped them and we know they're notably stronger than 240Z stub axles.....and 280ZX stub axles have same spline count and diameter as 240Z's, and given that's related to their typical breaking point they remain in the 'non-upgrade' bin. We are doing some billet 280ZXT stub axle and companion flanges as superior OEM replacement pieces for a few committed 280ZX customers seeking a direct bolt in OEM upgrade. For a stub axle upgrade for yourself you'd want to find a set of good shape 280Z used stub axles or step to our own billet replacement 280Z stub axles. Cheers,