Modern Motorsports Ltd

On my 'to do' list is produce the 10mm->12mm bushings so the 10mm ring gear sets can be used easily with the 12mm units. The ring gear bolts do not seem to be a limiting factor (right Scottie , I know you're was welded and assume the bolts weren't welded as well ). If you're interested drop me a line, interest will bump it up my priority list. End result, you should be able to buy a new clutch setup for ~$500US and couple it with a used 10mm R200 and replace the bearings etc at your discretion/budget allowance.

The rear brake bracket bolts on all 70-78 rear hubs as they're identical for the purposes of this rear brake kit. Timeframe estimates are on that web above as well,(they're only estimates until enough $ is in as that depends on the customers, then it's up to me...till then spread the word to get the required committments sooner). CV's detailed on the website as well.

A lot of written info on this board split into a few threads now is summarized at http://www.modern-motorsports.com/ not trying to redirect from this board, just trying to reduce my typing of late in short the bracket Mike and I are making allows the use of 11-3/8's rotors(vs. 10" in other setups). the larger diameter rotor allows 'free' braking effort increase by the ~15% greater radius from centre to point of brake pad friction application...as well larger rotor makes CV flange clearance greater and ebrake cable geometry is improved with the 240sx caliper [ August 02, 2001: Message edited by: Ross C ]

NOt sure if this is continued from another similar thread a couple weeks back or not...anyhow, I posted their and it still stands here: did you try turning your dizzy at all while someone is cranking your motor over? slowly turn dizzy a bit clockwise and if it doesn't fire then turn it back ccw, if you set it at 0 degrees it won't like that too much/especialy if you happened to get it after top dead centre. Just leave your dizzy holddown bolt less than very tight and rotate it 1/2" radial either way from current setting slowly while cranking. And have your timing gun ready to set it just right once it fires. PS I assume you have an aircleaner on but wondering how you see the flames??? Aircleaners are good/flames bad!

Generally at Boeing surplus yards titanium is same price as aluminum, their is a Z running around with titanium strut bars, not mine though. EVERY time I've gone by the yard in WA it's been a Sunday or US holiday Monday etc You find any stock and I'll check on the machining

Good plans Jamie. Zinc's are a routine replacement item on saltwater commercial fishing boats. Twice a year typically with one time being right before salmon fishing as they're VERY sensitive to the electron fields generated when the zincs are old or non-existent and will not reward you with a good catch. See what the marine shop says and place it somewhere easy to replace if possible. I know they're far from completely gone when they're typically replaced on marine boats.

Great to 'see' you Pete I think it was last fall you phoned me up and I was up to my eyeballs in schoolwork?? Anyhow, look fwd to hearing updates from you

Actually I've been toying with a 'solution' to those wanting stock height with the stiffer/lower aftermarket springs. A simple plate that would stack on top of your OEM perch and bolt to the existing strut studs and have it's own studs protruding on which you could add slip on spacers if desired. The 'base' plate would be like a bolt on wheel adaptor but cheaper and very easy to have made. If you're interested drop me a line as it won't take many wanting this to make it happen. As well many companies make custom coil springs, anything progressive will suit your needs best. Not bone jarring but can still take a hefty load when needed. I loved my TRW springs out back on my 280zx, they tolerated a LOT of weight and treated me quite well at all speeds including road racing/lapping days. None offered for Z's though from TRW that I know of.

Sorry guys, I just got in and only have a minute....been a busy but fun night.....test fitting wheels on the 13" brembo setup for a 240Z Then I had to demo my own and he's still wearing that grin anyhow.....follow the payment/production info at this NEW thread started by Scottie please http://www.hybridz.org/cgi-bin/ultimatebb.cgi?ubb=get_topic&f=7&t=000422 please email me with parts/needs you want in addition to the actual adaptor pair so I can plan ahead. thanks

I just figured depending on pickup location the angle you might hit loading it up on your trailer might have uncovered it if you weren't topped up with oil.

Could you have uncovered the pickup in loading it on your trailer? Any sharp impact/bump that might have started your pickup falling off...was the pickup welded...connections on your oil psi shutoff switch fine and the rest of those wires good? Hopefully and quite likely just something simple...good luck.

Looks great Mike! It's always so sweet to wash the car after a long project like that You waiting on an airfilter to drive it?? or... Ross C www.modern-motorsports.com [ July 30, 2001: Message edited by: Ross C ]

first off, it was great talking with Scottie. It's always a pleasure talking hybridz with someone else...someday we'll have to talk more about our cars than some little metal adaptor I'll add to this later but for now: -drawings/plans of the adaptor are not available to us so this is task No.1 -a fellow measurement inclined friend is measuring up his set of Scotties unused adaptors/sketching and then sending it all to me (including adaptors) to redraw and verify. -once verified they'll go to the machine shop where they'll ensure the drawings are a fit to the actual flanges (for those unaware, this adaptor has a machined pocket to fit the rectangular flange of the comp. flange) -these welds are NOT an extremely precision requirement but the pieces do have to be properly located during welding -their is no binding issues with this adaptor, AFAIK and in discussion with Scottie only known binding problems were with others using 280ZXT comp. flanges which are ~2" longer than 280Z flanges......so our adaptor fits 70-78 flanges and is ~1.25" thick so the 3/4" difference places the CV shaft in it's 'happy' zone -I would expect them to be completed in ~3weeks but a 'rush' at the CNC shop could delay that, hopefully this doesn't happen (their workload is cyclic) -you can buy them as adaptors only and have them welded yourself, or as already welded to 280z flanges with collars/hub flanges for a strength upgrade for a 280z, or already welded to a 280z flange (and you send me your old flanges after install) -pricing on the welded options has not been worked out and will be subject to flange costs (sources/cost inputs welcome) -you can send via paypal for which their's a $5 cost for $150 (covers their fee) or $145 via a mailed US cheque....shipping will be $10US to the westcoast and $15US to central/east coast for the adaptors only. I've yet to price shipping the other 'options' but felt it better to get this info up rather than none at all. payments accepted thru sales@modern-motorsports.com or via mail thru the contact info at www.modern-motorsports.com Do let me know privately if you think you'll want them welded and/or with a full 280z axle set so I can plan accordingly. PSS future runs/parts will not have extra charges for paypal fees but at present budgets are tightlined for max. value as the first CNC runs always cost the most. Ross Corrigan www.modern-motorsports.com [ July 30, 2001: Message edited by: Ross C ]

Unless you have a very strong preference for one over another I strongly suggest you drive at least one of each in somewhat similar vehicles if possible. Many have never driven a 'built' automatic/nothing sluggish when it's done right. T56's are a ball of fun as well. I've experienced both in various cars/OEM and race. For my daily driving 365d/year with lots of city driving including lots of wet weather I prefer my 700R4. ~1800stall if that and 1st can shred my 245's right thru from a 750rpm idle no problem. I use a B&M shifter for 'single' shift confidence at my road racing lapping event/days. If I had a LOT less pokey city driving I'd opt for a t56....if I come across a deal on one it might likely come home My hammer shifter was a surprise Xmas present from Ann so losing that won't be easy... PS never choose your components simply because one might install easier than another if they may be different in fuction. Their usually is NO easy install and although many options/choices require a lot more time and/or $ up front I've found once it's done you've got that aspect forever. Items I did 'quickly' years ago I never got to redoing till my recent EFI at which point I really tried to do all aspects very well for a long/proper and aesthetically pleasing fuction. I've redone many things over the years and seen others choose options they didn't want simply due to ease of install......the time to do what you want the first time is well worth it...we'll hear that from Pete someday soon here right Pete? [ July 27, 2001: Message edited by: Ross C ]

What's the dimensions on this Sebring muffler? Jim, I like my 3" turned down tip, they all have 3" inlets that I've seen. Decent chromed piece IMO that's stood up alright. I'll be doing new exhaust with the new headers at some point/hopefully by fall. anyone ever ceramic coat a muffler? might be cheaper for me than the polished version...(Mike, I assume $100US was unpolished?)

sounds like a pair of cores to me/or a return...unless someone here has a decent boot source and it's easy to replace them and all else is OK. They should slide easily in and out and that ripped boot is very likely part of the reason that one does not. Good boots and joints are my two checking points on those.

["Am I correct in assuming that the shafts do not need to be shortened? I also have converted ZX disc brakes. Will these pose a clearance problem?" CV shafts are left untouched in their entirety as an OEM unit. For clearance it may be tight if it does clear. For a fairly good check you could measure up a CV flange and compare it to your UJ shaft flange/clearance and get a good idea of how close it might be. Our 'new' rear disk brake brackets will clear CV's. You could be quite certain you could get fair dollar selling your current 10" rear brakes when the time comes if you want to swap to our 11-3/8's setup. The extra 11/16's radial distance adds up to a LOT of extra clearance. ebrake geometry is better longterm as well. I plan to measure up some various flanges and 'protrusions/lips' this wknd. [ July 27, 2001: Message edited by: Ross C ]

"with dual reservoirs the days of a failing both ports in a master is basically non existant.." This could be very comforting to me assuming all true..I'd always thought if one failed the other would very soon follow without the resistance in the MC normally their with two good reservoirs, not true? I'd have to look at the actual construction/internals I suppose. I figured only one blown line or reservoir allows your pedal to go to the floor without any braking effect left as it's an open 'outlet' for the fluid/air/pedal pressure...? But if you're right Mike, then I'd feel a LOT better about tossing ebrake IF I lived on the flats. If only one reservoir goes you have either fronts or rears left...and ebrake would only gain you rears so no further ahead...I figure for two lines to get ripped out (ie. both reservoirs)would be more incident than ebrake can help me in??

good to hear Randy, the monoball sperical bearing in my upper plates is very tight/pressed in and for backup/retained from underneath so should always be in compression. I'd have to have a lot of unloading to have my springs rattling I would think but we'll see. The set I have is for 280zx only and would be reasonable to duplicate (made by a local machinist). It has built in additional caster in the setup so only camber is adjustable by the plates. Ballpark pricing was $200US when I looked at it last. 5-10 buyers would be needed but I'm skeptical theirs enough 280zx hipo owners to make it fly. FWIW, another benefit is it allows one to use longer coilover springs...my setup has 7" springs at present to clear my 245's, once I install the plates I should be able to go to 8's and gain some travel...(I do bottom out up front rarely on a v. harsh city bump).

Scottie and Pete, thanks for answering some lingering unanswered q's from up above to clear this fog I have Sounds like Scottie has it solved in general but if it's possible to make his piece thinner at all (I'd guess it is) that'd be very welcome by all for better piece of mind if their rear is twisted up a bit or slighty different in another way. If the adaptor became thin enough such that the shoulder of the OEM CV stub bolts protruded an extra washer or two (or custom washer if needed/cheap to make) to stack under the bolt head or nut and lockwasher would solve that and allow a hair more CV shaft travel. If nothing else restricts it from being made thinner a stronger steel could be used to ensure adequate strength. As for pleasing the bolt on desires: I think Mike's suggestion of doing a 'run' of X amount of stub flanges all welded by one shop would solve that as best it can be done reasonably. Customer receives two custom flange setups he can 'bolt on' after removing his stock ones. If he returns the stock ones to whomever he can receive a nominal credit/refund depending on what cores would cost. Mike and I talked tonight and between us we could come up with at least 10 sets if it was agreed that this solution was in everyone's best interest, just an offer. Him and I are going to be coordinating a fair bit with the machine shop anyhow for the rear brackets about to turn out a prototype...so handling $/machining/packaging/shipping won't be a hassle as we've both been doing it for a while. [ July 26, 2001: Message edited by: Ross C ]

What's actually making the noise? Which surfaces impacting...or....I'd hope to install my fronts shortly.

That PN and size sound right. I got 2 rows of 1.25" tubes but it was probably overkill. I'd had troubles with an OE camaro rad so asked for a guarantee from Griffin it wouldnt' overheat. They'd only firmly guarantee the 1.25 would do the job. Auxiliary: search the forum, lots of aluminum feedback...mines' been daily driver since I had it as OEM, it was down for ~2 mos. during the swap but has seen some 40,000miles since then on very rough roads daily and lots of track fun.

What's the thickness on Scottie's piece? Perhaps it could be made thinner somewhat within reason to gain some travel? Although it sounds like this might not gain enough to suit most setups. If not, it's not beyond feasibility to gather up a dozen pairs of stub axles and have them parted or milled down an adequate portion if all else allows.......I could see a 'donut' shaped adaptor being quite thin with the weld being done on the inside of the donut and the 6 CV OEM holes drilled in the outer part of the donut so it actually slips over that stub flange....but then the CV endcap/snout might need clearancing on the stub flanges... If anyones going to do it we may as well solve as many issues as is feasible... Now if Scotties already accomodates most susp. travel in the average setup I'm just making this complicated and I apologize. [ July 25, 2001: Message edited by: Ross C ]

Aluminum OEM rads will start to separate at the plastic tanks after a few years (the epoxy starts to bulge out). Griffin's are all aluminum and very sturdy IMO. I've had a front end incident etc..it was mildly bent/bent it back straight..over 4-5 yrs use and mine's HARD mounted with rubber bushings (common rad type mounting bolts) and no trouble whatsoever. Just my .02c. water pumps: howard stewarts stuff is very good and appropriately priced, both Griffin and Stewart are nascar items and seem to work v. good for me, I run 87 octane in my 9.4:1 350 and have had no signs of knock or other related issues [ July 25, 2001: Message edited by: Ross C ]

----------------------------------- what about a "exchange " axle flange, have a adapter made thats the pattern only for the 6 bolts and have it tigged on ...... this will bolt on to the car still - leave far more room for re/re the shaft and the cost will likely not be that bad.. all you need it 10 pairs of axle flange as cores to start...... -------------------- above is same as scotties right? If it's only straightfwd welding req'd then the only extra work is removing that inner flange nut right? I'm not overly concerned about bolts coming loose, I'm not near Jim's 550hp loads he put thru them and have not had troubles with any drivetrain bolts I used loctite blue on. Scotty, does your's use any axle flanges's? Too bad those nuts can be so tough to remove at parts yards or the cores would be easy enough to get. Mike, but are cores needed? or simply to be able to send a finished product/have them all welded by one source etc to make it 'bolt-on' for most? [ July 28, 2001: Message edited by: Ross C ]