Modern Motorsports Ltd

As requested by a few members & non-members, I checked out pricing to produce Jim Biondi's proven/bolt on CV adaptors and it's completely feasible at a reasonable price same design Pete has detailed on his web and here http://www.hybridz.org/cgi-bin/ultimatebb.cgi?ubb=get_topic&f=7&t=000136 (I'm not good at pasting pics with my ancient MS IE browser here at work) It's been a proven piece on Jim's car, taking 550hp to the pavement. He's given permission for it's reproduction exclusive of him (ie. he wants no liability associated with him). Being bolt on it can be easily installed and if your ride is down for a bit and you have another Z you can swap them over etc (I only keep spares for my own car so if I'm running CV's those are the spares I have...so nice to be able to only keep one type of spares). Complete price is $165US total, plus shipping. No welding needed at all. Just your bolts to bolt it up which you should have for your OEM flanges already and just be sure to get the OEM ones with your CV shafts when you buy them or buy new ones as per the PN"s on Pete's website. CNC shop based this pricing on 10 pairs. This includes using the 4150 Preheat treat Steel for the 'spool' that Jim specified and used after discussion with some experienced Ford SVT racing shops. This steel is a LOT stronger than mild steel and slower to machine but using this material allows the 'spool' to be built with the necessary reliefs for the OEM nuts/washers which enable it to be bolt on. Any q's feel free. Once 10 committments are made it'll go ahead. As stated in the other threads, this is NOT an effort to detract from Scottie's weld on adaptors. I've had a few ask me for a bolt on solution as they don't have access to what they feel are very reliable/or reasonable priced shops to do the precision welding required on his piece (and some simply wanted it to bolt-on). So given Jim's proven design it seemed natural to see if it could be produced cheap enough to benefit the rest of us.

could be a fair price if it's a very good job for specific expectations. For a stock block/cam etc one might question the money spent. What do you want to get from this modification? car's purpose/long term expectations......gears/air filter & exhaust are the initial cheapies to get a nice change next to an engine swap whether it's a turbo L28 or V8 etc.... My v8ZX resulted from a blown head gasket on the L6.....$5-600 to have it replaced.....may as well rebuild the head...may as well rebuild the bottom end...is this the motor/power I want in the end? nope/in went the V8 smiles and chuckles since I'm really looking fwd to riding(driving?) a couple custom turbo L6's underway locally here once they're up and running

You did your first 'fire up' without having a timing gun on it? FIRST thing I do...timing gun all setup/fire extinguishers handy and wife turns the key as I hold the timing gun. When it wouldn't fire once I just twisted dizzy a little either way and it fired/then checked timing and corrected and then locked it in. Always get that nailed early if you can. I'd yank that carpet and put a gun on it and see what you're at. What ignition is this that you're checking a tooth on it? sounds like you have a carb but trigger wheel ignition?? If carb only just put it to No. 1 as best as you can and follow above. PS, I assume your engine is grounded well and all other grounds are taken care of properly. (bin der dun dat ) good luck [ July 24, 2001: Message edited by: Ross C ]

For the alternator I have that one BIG white wire going to my alternator. Tach wire to the tach terminal and I don't recall from where my 'batt' positive wire comes from that goes to my 'batt' on my HEI. Just a + wire that's on with ignition turned to 'on' I"m sure. It was spliced into the oil psi switch JTR discusses and taken to a side/small post on my Ford solenoid as well so I get fuel while cranking before oil pressure is present. (ie. relay is on when either I"m cranking (from solenoid) or oil psi is up (running)). any more q's feel free at 280zx@home.com like Mike mentioned, sometimes I'm here a lot and other times it's a day or so till I have some time so might miss your q's.

Scottie, sorry if mis-stated a point. I've emailed you personally a few times just recently now as you know, so felt you had ample time to reply on both the preferred solution/welding etc. I couldn't find the pics (old links were dead) to see exactly how yours worked and only recalled several discussions of runout etc so assumed some precision was required. Offlist committments I have are from shadetree mechanics without welders or a desire to remove their flanges, so their preference still stands. Still outstanding is the issue of CV shaft length as installed. Sounds like yours is similar to Jim's? ie. close to 1.25" in thickness and it's all 'additive' lengths correct? ie. your 'adaptor' fits in between unlatered OEM stub and OEM CV shaft and you use one OEM pair (ie. one shorter/one longer)? Thanks. PS Should I take that as a thanks if I can relieve that RPITA for you?

quote: Originally posted by SleeperZ: Does this adapter, or the weld-on type require any CV shaft shortening? Is there an issue with either of these adapters binding up the CV shafts, which I hear are long compared to the stock shafts? I've emailed Pete just to verify that issue already (we've verified lots/but I hadn't asked that yet) as it if they were then squeezing a 1.25" sandwhich on either end won't help.. The CV shafts are longer UNCOMPRESSED than UJ shafts but do compress enough to fit Z's normally and properly. Actually Terry or Pete document somewhere that one should expect less wear from these CV shafts in a Z as the compression places the 'tulip' in a new position less prone to wear. Pete does a fine job of documenting these things. http://members.home.net/pparaska/280ZCVHalfshaftConversion.htm Perhaps Pete and Scottie, who are right up on lengths fitments with these CV's can answer this. I couldn't find a pic of Scotties setup to see if his was welded onto that stub flange of if that flange is parted and his adaptor welded to the splined shaft (ie. if his added length then it obviously works). One potential issue can be 'small' disk brakes. The CNC adaptor Mike Gibson and I are bringing about will clear CV's as it uses 11-3/8's rotors (whereas older ZX is ~10" rotors, which bring caliper/and ebrake very close to halfshafts). Any other potential 'clearance' issues? I recall a swaybar one or similar?? Better to have it all ironed out now rather than later....I have 4 committed including Mike. Feel free to post links to this on zcar.com and zdriver etc as this is the only forum I jump into when I get the odd minute etc. thanks

Kudo's to you Mike for your efforts to bring these new/unique items to market. I KNOW they don't happen overnight and that they take a lot of effort. Their seem to be enough building custom Z's to make it worthwhile if you don't need many numbers to make it a worthwhile item.

quote: Originally posted by Zeus80ZX: Hi guys... I've got a '80ZX(n/a, but not for long) I'm picking up my new turbo motor (or shell of a motor if you want to call it that) next week and sticking it in storage. Then I'm going straight for the brakes, suspension, and drivetrain. I've noticed quite a few of you that own earlier model Z's use the Energy Suspension kit. After looking through thier offerings, I can't find a ZX upgrade kit Can someone point me in the right place to start getting my ZX ready to handle my 300-325HP turbo motor? Thanks, Z How's 13" brakes up front sound Drop me aline for all above needs. I've got all the ES stuff on my car and it's workign fine.

As Terry says: the bolt pattern's are different (smaller than 4x4.5) and the mounting method quite different. Just sell them to someone with a Z in need and spread the good karma. New rotors aren't that pricey if you can't find suitable ones in a yard. Slip on rotors are easier to service (no need to expose bearings/wrench on the inner hat bolts etc) if ever need be and can't be beat for ease of install.

quote: Originally posted by jeromio: The part that would be the most useful would be a complete stub axle flange. One just like the ZXt flange, except with the 27 splines instead of 25. Agreed that would be useful, but very costly to do for our quantities. Jim's pieces, as described by Pete have been proven and documented. Hard to beat an item like that which is BOLT ON. I'm aware of a few looking for a bolt on solution they can buy (ie. they don't want to make it) so if their were ~10 or more I'm quite certain I could have it made for reasonable cost. The spool piece uses higher strength steel that's more costly but I still feel reasonable pricing should be achievable. Perhaps some members on other boards could ensure enough members. I'm NOT trying to distract from Scottie's piece. I know it doesn't fufill the needs of some wanting bolt on needs so figured I'd explore the cost of making Jim's design for minimum of 10 pairs. Hopefully I can put a firm $ number on that shortly.

quote: Originally posted by pparaska: Ross, there's interference (or very close to interference in the two patterns. This is why Scottie went to the welded setup. I'm sure it's 'close', I'll have to sketch it up when I have a chance if noone else has a sketch handy. Nothing wrong with Scotties setup at all. But I prefer to avoid welding efforts if possible and know of a few wanting a bolt on scenario. I'm getting used to 'close' interferences and enjoy toying with solutions.

Pete: I like what Jim did for ease of install for a shadetree mechanic. I could take a look at getting a quote from the CNC shop on the 2 pc setup if there's an interest. Even if they can't be done for ~150 OR less (but I think they can be just offhand) its worth something to myself and likely others to not have to buck up for the welding and/or remove their flanges. It is a busy drawing but doesn't look v. involved for CNC. PS rear disk bracket prototype should be done soon. Mike and I finalized some design details last weekend I should update that thread tonight if I get time...11-3/8's rotors

quote: Originally posted by Scottie-GNZ: It is just threaded and I use loctite. How thick is this adaptor? Could it not be tapped for halfshaft bolts and the opposing CV bolts? or not enough depth/thickness to accomodate all bolt patterns without interference? I'm not sure all 'new' buyers know these do require precision welding. Or perhaps a two piece bolt on adaptor? Seems it's popular enough to warrant a look-see at that possibility. Didn't mean to swap the threads but thought some might want to read the 'extra' info you posted above Scottie.

The alcohol does nothing to your seals/gaskets etc or run to hot? (I'm not familiar with burn characteristics of it). I've had good success with ~1 litre (1/4 gallon) of methyl hydrate per 1/2 tank of gas. I've heard it's not the best for the motor but so far both motors I tore down after using for a few years (annual inspection/sniffer) were still fully sealed and nothing abnormal at all. I only use a 1/2 tank so I can burn it off quickly......I WON"T be doing this with the EFI now installed.....hopefully I can just build a program to get me thru now. GLAD you got it thru Ron

Good luck with your health and the flares Matt. FWIW, I had MAJOR scar tissue from cancer that wrapped completely around my heart and elsewhere. Pau d'arco (taheebo) tea removed the vast MAJORITY of it and stumped the docs when they did follow up scans expecting to see the scarred regions and found v. little. It's a fine detoxifier and aid to the body without being drastic like so many others. Beware of potential itchiness from the MSM Kevin mentioned as it has organic sulfur which can lead to itching in some as it did for me....was kind of traumatic as itchiness is a symptom of the Hodgkin's disease I've had twice now....so I was VERY relieved a few scans later when it was attributed to MSM's organic sulfur. For nerve inflammations I've found parsley/sprouts etc to help quite a bit as well as cold/hot/cold physio type therapies....any q's etc feel free to drop me a line personally...bin der dun dat.

What's your electric fan (cfm)and how is it mounted? do you have an effective shroud for it? I had NO luck with the JTR camaro core (tried it for a few months)but have had ONLY success with my griffin.....I run zero shroud on my griffin so I can improve upon it but their's been no need to date to do so......(not tooo hot up here). Although the constant higher rpm's of roadracing it still tolerated very nicely including a trip in California.

quote: Originally posted by KraZ4spd: If 3.70 is the only gearing you can get in an LSD, why bother? I mean wouldn't a 3.54 r200 be just as good? Wouldn't the 3.70 cause a lot of tire spinning when your trying to get out of the hole? Or does the LSD really provide that much more? I'm ripping my hair out here!! Somebody please clarify this for me. Gears alone are not going to prevent tire spinning in 1st or 2nd. The reason a lot of us build our hp/weight ratios is to have 3rd gear feel like 1st etc. Driver control and skill HAS to come into play very shortly in this game. 3.7-3.54 is not so different but an open diff vs. an LSD diff in a cornering/corner exit scenario is vastly different (particularly in a hipo rwd setup IMO) in response. I found far greater control in my ZXV8 with the LSD as it wasn't as throttle sensitive in the corners where-as it was previously very twitchy. hard to explain from this rookie drivers viewpoint

quote: Originally posted by FAIRLADY 327: its from a tpi350. it would have everything, actually i wouldnt need half the stuff that it would come with. that tpis is way too dang expensive man...wow! im going to bump up the cam to rev to about 6500- those requirements are not for stock TPI AT ALL...price out what you'd need overall after reading some 3rd gen TPI sites where the runners/TB/base/injectors/programming etc etc...easier IMO to save that cash till a package more suited comes along......they can spend more than I did on my complete pro flo package for requirements like yours....in OE form/runners/base etc you'll see a loss in power assuming you've got 300+hp at present , just my .02c

If I was buying any EFI system I'd be polling the folks on the DIY EFI list http://www.diy-efi.org/ sales guys can talk and Holley recently bought the commander line, they didn't develop it at all so I've heard skepticisms on their support of it. Might be great but their's gotta be a reason it's way below the rest. Holley isn't typically 'cheap' on pricing. Their was a recent notice (2 months back) on a decent system with wideband O2 etc for very good pricing for anyone going that route. http://www.diy-efi.org/ and sign up on the list for any and all info...they are technical and informed so do your homework Zya their

Call Greyhound or UPS and find out what 12lbs (more like 10lbs I think but being conservative) costs to go from v5c 6c6 to your postal code.I'm guessing 20-30CD. email me offlist with any q's as I haven't been able to read this regularly at all lately

nothing much desirable about a 280zx rearend...240z is a superior backend for suspension design......although 240sx back end (4 link?) is VERY well engineered and been eyed up by a few....

THIS JUST ROCKS!! Found my idle setup problem in a stubborn dizzy as I was setting the base timing the other day. ITS ALL RUNNING VERY WELL sorry for shouting but I just couldn't believe it......all base program and just ripping on me.....feels weaker as their's NO surging at all but I'm up to speed SO fast...hard to say as I've been abstaining from speed for 6 wks or so but it's sure working well......if I wasn't short on <1/8 tank of gas and no wallet with me I don't think I'd of come home tonight NO bogging/NO burping and farting....NO fuel smell, NO dieseling....wait sounds like most any OEM car.....yup, but I built it and.... ahh, time for bed, just had to update.....PSS suspension didn't seem as stiff as usual.....thinking some extra torque might be their ...or my mind and heart were lightspeeds ahead on cloud nine so kewl to be "back in the saddle again!: nite

Well the way mine is mounted it would take some 45 minutes or more to undo enough connections to read a pump number..here's BOSCH TECH US/CANADA 1-800-521-5462. your local parts store can give you a bosch number for that one and the tech line will give you specs. I too came across several others that were cheaper but none that were a healthy 250pph. If their are cheaper Bosch ones it'd be great to know

quote: Originally posted by Drax240z: Well 'better' is a relative term. You'll be quieter with 2 pipes as opposed to 1 large one. As long as you plan on the slightly less flow you could run 2 pipes without a problem, just size accordingly. Also, it can be a heck of a lot easier to have good ground clearance when running 2 smaller diameter pipes as opposed to one large one. yeah, I'm still looking for HSS 2x4 in galvanized aluminum cheap it'll clear easy and provide enough area single 3" has 7.1" area dual 2.5" has 9.8" area and 2x4 has 8" area assuming those are actual dimensions which we know they'll vary

quote: Originally posted by firebern: Well I got a 78 280Z, so by looking at the web page its a 3.545:1, which is still a big difference from a 'Stang. I am looking for top end speed rather then acceleration, I think there's already plenty of it. It's too bad we can't find Datsun aftermarket parts as easily as American cars. Thanks dudes, Fire. If you want a 3.36 I've got a friends new in the box NISMO (or Nissan) 3.36 new ring and pinion R200 setup for $300US or $450CD.