Modern Motorsports Ltd

1. Is there an alternate way to use the stock Datsun water temperatre gauge? I can't find a 16 x 1.5P tap for under $100.00! what's wrong with the JTR method? haven't altered mine in 5 yrs and 3 or more engine topend teardowns.... 3. Are there any other tailhousings I can use other than the Caprice model for my 700R4? I have heard some truck's have the trans mount in the same location. most any tailhousing AFAIK, I have a TH350 on mine....I can't see ANY reason why it has to be that one...could be ignorant on this but their's lots of freedom in locating trans mount 4. Recommendations for a good Holley manual? I'm a Nissan dealer tech schooled in fuel injection, I haven't played with many carbs? I've got a 650 vac. sec. that needs built. It will sit on an edelbrock performer between stock 75cc cast heads on a stock 350 4 bolt. I guess I would like suggestions for a good carb rebuild kit, as well. I'm sure HPbooks has one and their stuff has been OK for me in the past....but I'm SURE you can find the world of info on those online if you wish.....

quote: Originally posted by 66coupe: One more pump you can look at is the one for an 86-87 Ford E-250 van. Have you got specs on that one? Will it put out 250pph @50psi+? I found the bosch 1-800 techline very useful.

Conservatively it would support 450hp which is plenty for me. I used figures from the SDS website for fuel consumption ranges. I mounted it on the stock bracket with two large hose clamps and wrapped the pump in some VERY skookum 1/2" thick rubber (typically used for bridge bearings....soft enough for great damping but no wear....used same on base of radiator mounts) Now if I hadn't twisted my back in some unknown fashion this morning I'd be having that O2 bung installed..argggggggg maybe the drugs will make it all better shortly

You mean a 2bolt small block chevy? No different externally than a 4bolt for your purposes. Fine to 350-500hp before you 'want' a 4bolt depending on who you ask........

Thanks Guys, been waiting for this infexion for a while I hope to get that O2 installed shortly to help me avert doing 'dumb' tuning and going the wrong way at the wrong time FWIW, I was simply amazed at how many 'unique' solutions were required every step along the way when it came to the wiring harness/lenths/bracketry/fuel lines etc.... Richard, I used the Bosch pump (can't find that list of info/did I post it here?) that was $225 CD and OEM for a few vehicles. I have spec's kicking around but can't find right now.....I did right now find it's OE for '88-91 audi 80 quattro, '88-90 VW Fox (not rabbit), '85-91 Mercedes Benz 190E '85-91. (Rich, if you can find that spec email I sent you that'd be swell...just searched my mailboxes and can't find it so easily).

quote: Originally posted by pparaska: This is the way I see it, based on readign Puhn, Carroll Smith, etc. Please correct me if I don't understand this correctly: A larger diameter disc with the center of the caliper piston at a larger diameter will need less piston force and pressure to obtain the same friction at the rotor/pad interface for the same rotor/pad friction coefficient. What this gives you is easier brake modulation and most notably, more brake rotor mass to increase fade resistance. Yes, I experienced 1000x's greater modulation control along with greatly shortened stopping distances with my upgrade. The modulation was a very welcome and somewhat surprising gain to me. In otherwords...if before I found it hard to modulate my brake effort between 90 and 100% with 100% being lockup, now I find that region within my EASY control. Just like being a lot stronger.....you don't have to lift very heavy objects to benefit......you can control medium weighted objects far greater than someone at their physical limit already. FWIW, inspected my 13" brembo/pbr setup and it shows almost zero wear after some 25,000 km's including my track events. Pads and rotors still appear new with possibly 2-3 thou wear on rotors max as it's barely discernable if at all. Now if only tires would last like that Spacers and studs still look as per new.

search this forum/I posted some great info from DIYEFI list a while back....bet donor TB's/pumps etc........email me if you search and CAN't find it

Well finally got my proflo install fired up on Thursday night....been working on it evenings as I can for ~6wks and doing lots of other car mods at the same time including new rad mounts and ee fan mounts etc...... Fired up very quickly and I got the timing nailed at 10BTDC as per edelbrock spec. Shut it back off after less than a minute running to got get some real gas....had started it on fumes basically.....got back and filled it up and started playing At idle still sounding a bit rough I was reading 4.8" vaccuum on the handheld programmer (very similar to SDS if not a clone). Knocked back global fuel 2%, vaccuum jumps to 8.9%, hehehe, this is fun Knocked back idle fuel 2% and we're up to ~11.x%, another mod/save and it's up to 14.6" vaccuum which is about all I'd expect....by then I'd had it running a few minutes in the garage/on blocks at 10:45 at night in our townhouse building so figured that was enough It was BEAUTIFUL to smell exhaust and not FUEL in my garage I haven't read up in the manual on programming much but it seems VERY straightforward and easy to do as it's setup. One hiccup that delayed me a day in firing up was that my old aircleaner would NOT bolt on.....it overlapped my dizzy/plug wires by ~3/8"....so picked up an offset base one by Transdapt that fits PERFECT so that was sweet...rarely does my first attempt at solutions like that work out. Hopefully tomorrow I can get to an exhaust shop to get an O2 bung installed and start tuning more...going to be great to slap the tires back on and get back to driving it like it's meant to be done! PS the fuel pump is gorgeously quiet Will post pics of my mounts etc once film is developed. [ July 07, 2001: Message edited by: Ross C ]

Long one goes on your drivers side. FWIW, I'm not in favour of personal digs slid into non related threads.

Copper collector gaskets have served me VERY well.....aluminum just mushroomed on me into an egg shape which really surprised that Vendor

So why can't it be your dizzy? Mines done that.....had oil pooling on my Victor Jr dizzy seals can easily leak......happens on mine if I leave it 'loose' too long doing a dizzy timing adjustment and happened on my wifes V6 camaro when a mechanic never replaced that gasket after doing some service for her when she was on a roadtrip alone. Do the dizzy gasket first....it's easily done/cheap and a likely cause. Check that your intake bolts are all tight as well as your oil psi sender HTH

Sure, you can take your heater core out of that loop anytime on any motor. FWIW, a few years back some ZV8's were blowing some heater cores on the IZCC list whether they were new or old units.....I've heard of no troubles on ZX's to date. The fix is using a restrictor on the outlet at the water pump or block so the heater core never sees such high pressure. You could use a 'everflo' unit JTR recommends in their S10 manual or braze a washer/restrictor into a fitting etc....

quote: Originally posted by Montara22: Hey MikeS, I'm thinking about a ZZ4 for my '72.. how do you like it? How does it idle/run? I'm looking for a motor that has a little lope, but not extreme like a top fuel dragster... Thanks! Tim Tim, minimal lope if noticeable at all on a ZZ4. I run that cam on my 98 350 with all edelbrock topend/rpm heads etc. I've been VERY pleased with the mannerisms, I was able to put the idle to 625-650 which pleased me. Just wrapping up my EFI install and it should be even better after that. And considering I've got more lift off the cam with mixed rockers it's 'docile' as manners go. If you find a deal on a roller 350 I'd go that route and use the ZZ4 cam or similar rather than buck up for the crate motor/but not all have the time to do a setup piecemeal. Roller cams can be had for $100 in used/but fine shape all day long in a number of profiles. PS, engine doesn't look any different from other 350's, you can pick your own valve covers/timing cover etc etc. Same externally aesthetically. [ June 29, 2001: Message edited by: Ross C ]

Mega Shifter and Hammer are VERY similar. Unless your tunnel is VERY Tight to your trans I can't see installing it prior to tranny install. They're cable shifters and at least on a 700R4 the linkage is down on the bottom side of the trans for relatively easy access and the upper shifter part is all bolted on the car so no need IMO to install ahead. Do pick one that supports both which the above do. I recall measuring various 'hammer' models to see what was shortest (wife gave me the 'hammer' for Xmas 1.5 years ago and totally surprised me ) but can't recall the results/ I know I stayed with my universal model as same height as the console AIR. I haven't put my console back in since and it looks fine/black carpet/black shifter housing. Now one thing I would IDEALLY like is to have 'sunken' my shifter install so the main housing is lower in the car. The handle is at the right height for me v. close to the bottom edge of my wheel but I'd like that 'large' somewhat obtrusive IMO housing sunken down........didn't have time to make a shifter 'sump' to hang down in my tunnel at the time. It can come v. close to fitting stock console if sunken on a 280zx so might fit as is on a 240z/geometry depending. I chose the hammer/mega shifter as feedback said it would suit me best for my roadracing with very positive one gear only up AND down whereas not all are as easy to downshift. I've liked it to date but it is firmer effort than I expected. Use loctite on all those little fasteners and add lockwashers if any don't have them as mine all got loose both up top/and below at my linkage on the trans.... pro stick etc is likely more preferred for straight liners or wknd warriors? HTH

I fully agree with all Larry said Why give up cubes/free power....too much talk (no offense/was in other threads) IMO about 'revving' easy...driven 327's/350's and fun is fun and more power is still fun....I'd take it at lower rpm's rather than higher and never give up cubes unless their was a HUGE reason to do so. my .02c typed quick from the office nothing wrong with using those spacers either, I was all set to do a 406 or larger when my 350 roller fell on my lap and plans changed

won't a TH350 output bolt on? Pretty sure that's what I have.....their were a lot more speedo gear combo's (practically infinite) with my 'older' one so I chose it over (what I believe is a longer) 700R4 unit.....tranny shop should know that though?!?!?!

Several good friends have used Charlies stuff and been quite satisfied with it, including Charles Sterling up in Renton a few hours north of you. To strengthen any flat sheet metal piece just hammer it over a small solid bar/breaker bar to put the 'ridges' in it...stiffens parts incredibly WITHOUT adding mass. This was done on my new custom 280zx floors and I was quite impressed with the rigidity (same as corrugated cardboard principle/just not near as many ridges).

R200/R180/easy difference If you're Shaquille O'neal you can easily palm the back cover of an r200, if not you're working at it Rear plate on R200 is octagonal Rear plate/cover on R180 is rectangular R180 has pentagonal plates (say 5" diameter) bolted on the sides surrounding halfshaft inputs, R200 does not all of these features can be visibly seen on any Z that hasn't been severely dropped by a quick peak from under the rear bumper

quote: Originally posted by scca: stop using drilled rotors........... and are you changing pads at the track/or trailoring your car their? blues are track only unless you want excess rotor wear...if only used under HOT conditions they're quite reasonable on rotors but not if they're not getting to temp etc where they will CHEW on rotors. For street/track I swear by my KVR's. Look like new after 10,000 miles and a couple of events and LOTS of testing. I 'only' run their 'street' pad and have not faded them ever/even on the old OE ZX brakes prior to my current 13's/ and was doing the last brake marker at Thill and SIR last summer. NO other pad I"ve heard of is so friendly on rotors and lasts, just IME. The 'old' setup went to a 510 owner who was amazed at how smooth the rotors and pads were let alone tons of life left after my 'abuse'. Drilled are for lightening and show IMO. Not many winning racers on drilled steel rotors that I've seen. Outgassing doesn't seem to be as much an issue as the rotor vendors would like us to think? IF you like hawk/perhaps a step below blues would perform better for your uses? [ June 18, 2001: Message edited by: Ross C ]

-what heads and exhaust -what mannerisms do you want/car rocking OK, any lope OK..... -no power below 3grand or....... -broad flat curve 3-6500 or peaky.... -carb chosen yet?

quote: Originally posted by SpeedRacer: It might not be to big a problem because Summit or Jegs sells a breather rubber grommet with the baffles built in. There is a lot of oil flying around inside an SBC valve cover so I would use a baffle. All those rubber grommets IME and others are ineffective/junk. I'd tried 'em all and finally a drag racing crew chief set me straight and I tapped my old covers for a simple metal one....everything else was just a fine slit or something that still had a fairly straight shot thru it.

a low miles used LT1/T56 install would suit that perfectly and have change left possibly. V. strong long running roadracers amongst local soloI friends running 4th gen fbodies. 275hp stock and easily bumped out nicely without sacrificing manners/mpg etc and the EFI is practically a free bonus when looking at the value one gets. How else can you get a 300+hp setup (easy/cheap mods) COMPLETE with rock solid 6spd trans for $4k or less. My dad's was less and complete rolled/hit cars with perfect low miles powertrains have been seen/inspected bought at $3500 so one could almost profit (ignoring time in) on such a purchase. If I was starting from scratch or even close to it with minimal dough in my powertrain I'd do that leap in a flash. I gotta get the pics of my dad's 240zlt1t56 scanned in here....on my list somewhere

Larkja, if $4k is total budget and you race regularly stay with the L6. If budget might have room V8 is a LOT more attractive IMO. For $4k you can build a aluminum head/intake/water pump/headers small block that will have more power/torque than the rebello and do it easily all day long. But I doubt you'll get your tranny setup ideally for your roadracing within above budget hence my suggestions for below/above $4k. IMO folks think they'll be at high rpm's a lot when roadracing but once a V8 is in their it takes v. little time to accelerate so you're either accelerating fast thru gears or braking. Power band is nice'n'low so no excess rpm's needed which is what wears an 'ordinary' motor. NOT floating at higher rpm's as speed gradually rises at 100+mph. It happens NOW and it really is eyeopening. And that's my take with my lighter than OEM 280zx still with full interior etc that weighed in at 50.0/50.0 with rear spare and all tools yanked for an event. So actually a rear wheel weight bias. Battery is mounted mid car as well. Having said that, I daily drove and roadraced a 327 in my 280zx that I had minimal dough into, ~$1kUS and had no problems with it. AFter 4 yrs it was yanked and actually had less than 1.5 thou wear in some holes and never bored out The '98 350 bottom end in it now was ~$400US and is doing just fine. Top end was probable close to $1750 or so US on the 350 if you were to buy the parts new but I've benefitted from patient/shrewd shopping amongst drag racing 'take-offs' which are in as new condition usually. Many don't have the time or patience to do this which is why I suggest the <$4k/+$4k ideers up above. quote: Originally posted by larkja: He puts together a great 3.0L that puts out between 250 and 280hp with around the same amount of torque depending on cams and carburetion. The cost for the 3.0L will be around $4,000.

Just be sure to put good functional baffles on vc's you're drilling your own holes on.....I went thru this with M/T valve covers/nice thick al/quiet. Tried the moroso plastic baffles and others and none worked...finally drilled and tapped out the SMALL bosses they cast in for TINY bolts and made ~1.25" diameter metal 'plates' and bolted them on spaced out 1/8" or so and they DID work but a PITA to do. The GMPP cast/polished alum. valve covers come with v. good baffles and the 'drippers' I'm rather fond of as well as the nice rails that hug the valve cover gasket to help prevent leaks. Glad I got mine used cheaper, AIR they're ~$150US new but if I had that dough and needed vc's I get 'em again Wish I had some pics up to show.....

Are you asking for opinions? The cam is THE ATTITUDE of the engine so your expectations for power/idle/mannerisms/rpm range/ is it gonna be blown etc would be needed for guesstimates. That's good he asked.....if any builder doesn't ask and just says he can easily build it fine without that info (or any idea) just run.......it's part of the package.