Modern Motorsports Ltd

OK, something odd is going on...I"ve received 2 notices that both lonehrider and davyz have replied to this but it's not showing up on my screen/closed and reentered hybridz.....any ideers? if I reenter I assume my setup isn't using the cached page? doesn't happen with others...I assume these two replies are here.....sorry for the NC but felt it was relevant ------------------ Of all the things I've lost, I miss my mind the most.

congrats! sometimes what seems simplest is the most frustrating and time consuming!

what book did you read? Puhn's? he goes through rotor sizing in quite a simple/quick manner to check out what mass of rotor you feel is needed I don't have my calc's handy as a mech/engg student was using them for a project but I may have them back by next week so I can't recall what I assumed for centre of gravity but offhand depending on your motor height etc I'd guess it's a little lower than midheight of your engine/trans centre of mass given wheel/brakes/suspension/frame etc is all lower than this point and little weight above....make an assumption/walk thru calc's...change assumption and see how sensitive your results are to it to determine how accurate you should be with that number.... equal sized rotors for initial starting point is not warranted IMHO, braking bias on any of our rides would be to the front no matter how stiff our setup is so no point running that mass out back....you tune your bias with a prop valve and pad choices/not rotor choice, looking at OE systems on hipo cars gives a v. good starting point for decent balance IMO, handy since they're typically 3100-3500 lbs and slower than us that when we equate our faster cars to their systems they're pretty close to right on the money/C5 setups and others etc...lot of engineering into those/see how your numbers come out...... PS I decide on rotor width/diam depending on whats easily available for me to purchase in a pinch if I need a spare assuming the offerings meet my quality and minimum size requirements/bolt pattern/cost and ballpark offset.... ------------------ Of all the things I've lost, I miss my mind the most.

Now I'm looking to use the true GM engine mounts as Ron Tyler was certain that they were far 'smoother' than aftermarket rubbers as his ride was smoother than other hybridz and this was one difference they narrowed it down to. I'm also aware of the other 'safety' aftermarket mounts with locking internal plates to prevent mount shearing/failure. My current pass. mount is badly cracked/nearing failure so I'm concerned about using a 'non-safety' mount. Any experiences on the list with ordinary (ie. sealed power etc/that's what I used/have now) chevy mounts in their hybrids? Anyone else crack theirs? Mine's not the strongest running build by far so experience of others would go a long ways in making my decision on which new mounts to go with. Smoothness is a priority. ------------------ Of all the things I've lost, I miss my mind the most.

Thanks Pete. That ditto's what Drax said in prior discussion. I just wanted to make sure I wasn't ignoring anything as that appears to be the easiest route. Drax/Rich had also mentioned welding the tab/you mech's think alike having consensus from 3 hybrid eng's give's that the go ahead (obviously other ideers/opinions still welcome/it'll be a week or so till I get to this at the earliest) I'll start a new thread on actual motor mount choice. ------------------ Of all the things I've lost, I miss my mind the most. [This message has been edited by Ross C (edited April 18, 2001).]

Howdy all, I'm going to be doing some mods on my beast shortly. One of which involved lowering my engine 3/4-1" in my engine bay by a change to my motor mount/spacer setup. I attached a pic that I hope is discernible. Current setup has a chevy motor mount bolted right to my xmember, the mount then has bolts that pass right thru ~3" of spacer (1" alum. plates) to thread into the engine block. It's a very simple straight thru/perfect alignment that works v. well. Their is a 'tab' on the top of the motor mount that 'hugs' the top of the 'horn' of my crossmember very well to resist excess motion and restrain the engine laterally (rubber in middle of engine motor mount) or that's how I see it anyhow. I see two options for lowering it as mentioned: -slot current motor mounting hole in xmember downward the 0.82" for the single large bolt that threads into the motor mount and I'd have to grind off the 'tab' at the top of the motor mount so it could 'slide' down the 'horn' 0.8" the centreline will shift. -create an offset spacer mount with inset bolts going from spacer to engine and a 2nd set of bolt threads for the motor mount (as this common pattern would now be offset by 0.8") and then bolt the motor mount in the 'current' as is position and use the offset built into the 'new' spacer setup to accomodate the drop in engine -3rd would be mock it all up and just weld a spacer setup etc but welding isn't a skill of mine or particularly how I'd like this done either... pros/cons and any other ideers? thanks! back to my studying PS I didn't know the graphic would show up this large, might be simplest to print if you have a small screen as I do. I'm uncertain how important that top 'tab' on the motor mount hugging my xmember horn is as it doesn't really restrain the motor IMO from going anywhere it shouldn't. ------------------ Of all the things I've lost, I miss my mind the most.

Fraga, you'll find members don't stay in one 'forum' on this site and many check the days 'frequent' topics so no matter where your topic is it's usually seen eventually. Multiple postings of identical q's will just duplicate others work in having already replied. If anything replying to your own thread after a few days of no replies MAY initiate more responses Your prior thread is here: http://24.4.88.29/ubb/Forum12/HTML/000206.html

quote: Originally posted by BLKMGK: Just a side note - I'm chasing a driver's side alternator bracket from a 'Vette that's SUPPOSED to work with a short water pump. It's $15 (!!) from GM I'm told and made of aluminum. .. Jim, I got that one on my bench. Ran it for a year or two upside down as I like my alt. low. Well right side up but put alt. underneath instead of above, I needed a 3/16's or so spacer under it to fit my pulley's/swp setup. that's an 82 'vette alt. bracket AIR, 80/81 were iron or pre 80's were iron/don't recall, anyhow yeah it's a nice piece/make sure it's not cracked or weld it up if it is. Mine's still taped on my bench with bolts/spacer but I wouldn't sell if for $15 as it cost me a chunk more than that. I'm still a huge fan of this transdapt mount that has my alt beside my balancer/have to wait till schools done to start getting pics rolling of that/brakes/wheels/etc etc... ------------------ Of all the things I've lost, I miss my mind the most.

quote: Originally posted by DavyZ: Man, that is cool. I can even understand it too! Thanks for posting that information!!! David Thanks I know we all have different talents and I'm no electrical guru but I'd give radshack a couple bucks and heat up the soldering iron and justify buying a solder 'remover' (if neeeded) to save the dough for additional MSD pills. Nothing that can't be custom built or ordered but if my scrooge self can build it in reasonable time/effort I will. I've always harped without deals/coupons I'd just have/be doing that much less so long live deals;^) Ross (coupon) Corrigan ;^) ------------------ Of all the things I've lost, I miss my mind the most.

quote: Originally posted by zfan: I put a 750 inplace of my old carter 625 when I changed to a rpm airgap manifold, it used to have a performer manifold on it. The problem is it will not get out of its own way so to speak. . ZFAN, we need more info and you need to do some more investigating. I'll address some of your q's and others points. -idle circuit is fully independent, if you can stumple your idle by turning each idle screw in separately they are responsive and you do not have an 'numb' idle condition/set idle appropriately and it will not affect any other circuit at all -what is your vaccuum reading and cam being used? -you won't activate your vaccuum secondaries sitting still.....needs airflow and vaccuum change that you wont' get blipping your throttle sitting still -you can hear vaccuum secondaries when they open as well....did you notice this with your 625? do you hear it now? -have you checked for vaccuum leaks? -get a tuning kit for that carb, you can't discern these types of problems without making alterations -if your on the throttle is 'sluggish' is your timing set perfectly? you mentioned a crane vac. cannister, they give some 20+ degrees unaltered and can really nix things...(36 total timing/14 initial is fine starting point) -using edelbrock's great tuning chart and approach time your 2500-5500 WOT in 2nd for ie., then richen your WOT circuit (needle change)and retry, if worse or no better step back leaner than original and progress from their -the springs only control your transition to WOT and back to cruise, not your true WOT so don't alter them unless it's only a transition your chasing -the performer carb series is one of the easiest if not THE easiest to tune IMO (not saying they're the fastest/best in the world) and their guide is great/one can go a ways beyond their guide in needle/jet combos as well -many step from a 650 (1406) to a 750 and can't get it quite as sharp so step back to their 650 setup, work fine on anything including high 400hp stroker's on the strip to street's, the 650 is not a limitation to anything but a v. wild motor -their are some duds, my first had a numb idle screw, but that's a rather simple/easy defect IMO, my plugs have been consistent and its very easy for me to swap to my sniffer test state of tune as well -I've chased WOT transition stumbles and found they were mostly timing related (14 at least initial), a little acc. pump related, and mildly those stepup springs you mentioned....the stepup springs can radically affect mpg so do alter them on an 'as needed' basis -I agree fully that a lot of aftermarket parts $ is wasted, I bought the crane adj. vac. kit and it was nothing but trouble...JB weld and a $5 spring kit were a lot more effective for me -I ran my V8 on an illtuned Qjet for 4 years and wish I'd boughten my 1406 initially.....free carb feeding my $$$$ efforts! something wrong their! -no reason the RPM air gap isn't a fine manifold/RPM is proven/works great and Vic. Jr. works great so marrying the designs as they did cannot be a bad thing IMO, IMO more V8Z's should step straight to a Victor Jr, I finally did last spring and will never go back ------------------ Of all the things I've lost, I miss my mind the most. [This message has been edited by Ross C (edited April 17, 2001).]

not sure if I posted this before and I know a few are running the MSD units, here's a rather simple way to tailor your own 'pills', feel free to thank the web auther for the info as he's a great guy http://www.mindspring.com/~gordon.warren/pill.html

I'll guess it's arctic silver (porsche) which I'm kinda partial too I know mine takes on different hues depending on daylight/brightness etc. Your's looks like it might be a bit darker though (polar silver?) but could just be pics....or any of 30 other silver variations?

Just FWIW, I've always loved my 280ZX blower/heater core (as stock system). In Edmonton it's first few years I had heat v. fast (quicker than any of our other vehicles) and defrosting was never a problem. This was in -30 C winter cold spells (-22F). I know some 240Z V8's a few years back blew their heater cores and narrowed it down to excess coolant pressure as a result of their V8 setups. Hadn't recalled that for a while. I'd planned to put a restrictor on my system but yet to do so. I'd hate to replace a heater core. The s10 manual by JTR details a PN or one could just make their own restriction in the block at heater hose outlet or in a hose junction. ------------------ Of all the things I've lost, I miss my mind the most.

Burp, you caught me mid beer/er/whiskey up here;^) JTR applies for most EXCEPT you have 3" less from xmember to firewall in a ZX compared to a Z and a ZX is rearsteer (rack behind xmemb) and Z's are frontsteer. So this prevents or makes it quite difficult to drop your engine level and pan fully down and behind your xmemb/steering rack/setup. Your motor mounts can be spaced same as JTR EXCEPT you don't need the offset plates/your mounts will line up dead even with your xmember and you'll be as rearward as you can be comfortably. Perhaps 1/2-3/4" could be gained if you altered your hood latch/I carved mine a bit to clear one plug wire on HEI and my car's weight is 50/50 so balance is fine (that 50/50 includes mid mount batt/alum. rad/heads/intake/water pump etc). So hood clearance is a tighter issue/I've yet to install xmember/frame spacers but will be doing so fairly shortly along with some other mods to my susp. ------------------ Of all the things I've lost, I miss my mind the most.

The ZX MC's bleed fine as installed IME, done a couple now. If 2+2's or ZX auto's have a larger booster as Scottie says that would be a neat gem of info..an actual upgrade to my rig from a ZX for a ZX Rich, I could use your dud MC/booster that didn't fit ------------------ Of all the things I've lost, I miss my mind the most.

quote: Originally posted by Jeff 280ZXT: now when you change engines in a car you need to pass the emissions test for the car that the engine "was" in so my car needs to run as clean as a 84 vette with FI Whoah! Let's not toss dough chasing a problem that might not exist. You have to pass sniffer/tailpipe tests/not inspection tests right? (ie. you don't need all '84's equipment visually??). If just tailpipe you don't have to 'run as clean as an 84'. You just have to run clean enough to pass '84 standards. Huge difference. My '80 ZX passes '80 standards with NO smog equipment at all. Have a good tuneup done on it with reference to tailpipe readings etc (ie. might not make it run good/but produce it's 'best' tailpipe emissions) and see how it compares to the spec's you have to meet. Even with my newer built setup I was able to detune it to pass emissions (passed by a LOT) and next day retune back to it's stomping levels. Manifolds/headers etc won't alter your emissions much. Many confuse an improved build with airbox/headers etc as a larger polluter, often not the case as increased power can yield increased efficiency given same cam etc. If it's a mild to medium 350hp or less build as long as your cam isn't a real narrow/odd lobe separation you should be able to meet the specs with carb tuning alone. Your $300 waver fee would easily cover a 1406 edelbrock carb and tuning kit which allow all ciruits independent and easy adjustment quickly and easily if your carb poses some problems. Qjets aren't as fast or easy to know what steps to take and I have no experience with Holleys. Find out what you have to meet and local GOOD shops will know if that's an attainable level as well as some on this list. I have no cats/cannistor/EGR etc etc and I come in lower than our '86 standards my wifes' 86 camaro has to meet when I'm tuned for the test. more q's feel free ------------------ Of all the things I've lost, I miss my mind the most.

Welcome Jim, the GM 4.3 can be v. nice stock with good power and great efficiency. You have to decide what you want for power/perfomance. Have you driven other rides that were great to you or more what you'd like? You mention intake/carb for power, the GM EFI can be great stuff as can any efi but GM might tolerate a fair change and still run fine.

If you have critical accessories lower than your xmember or v. close to it (ie. pan/headers/Ypipe) you may consider adding some wedge shaped steel additions to the bottom of your xmember to act like skidplates so that if you ever do find something too high at speed it serves to help 'skip' you over it without sacrificing your pan/motor/exhaust and at lower speeds/crawl it may just tell you to back up and find another route (ie. a bad entrance ramp/speed bump). Local guy has this to protect some custom headers he built on his V8z. He used HSS rectangular tubing and cut a wedge (ie. upside down shark fin) with flat part on xmember and two resulting fins per wedge (one per header/pipe) protruding down. ------------------ Of all the things I've lost, I miss my mind the most.

Well what you propose should work as that's typical 4th gen (ala t56) exhaust routing, sqeezing a decent pipe under your pan and proximity their along with any potential required O2 sensors/wiring could be a consideration. I'd like to have my new exhaust done in a manner that I could go to a T56 without much trouble (friend with a sweet turbo'd 4th gen is going to yank his t56 w/ Mcleod and Ripper sometime here ). ------------------ Of all the things I've lost, I miss my mind the most.

quote: Originally posted by caddyZ: Hey guys, I need someones help right quick! I have an R-200 what ratio did they come in? I sending off my computer on my LT-1 and they need to know. Please send me the ratios Please take 10 minutes and turn your wheel etc to know for sure rather than rely it was never changed. posted at www.zhome.com somewhere under tech articles....basically fix one rear wheel and turn the other 10 times and count driveshaft rotations, double driveshaft rotations and then divide by 10, ie. you count 17-3/4 rotations of your driveshaft to 10 wheel rotations, then double the 17-3/4 to 35-1/2 and divide by 10, 3.5 so 3.54. Guaranteed and fullproof. PS is your PCM being fully reprogrammed? friends just go to one guys shop and he does those tunes routinely in the car for gears/limiters and even edits. ------------------ Of all the things I've lost, I miss my mind the most.

what do you want for power/manners? stock cam with 1.6rr's/swapped head gasket/headers etc pumps up nicely all on its own. Next step is a 211/219 LPE cam which is v. well liked on the LT1 or a ZZ4 cam (mix your rockers/1.6 intake/1.52 or so exhaust as LT1 heads are good/ZZ4 ones were/are poor on exhaust hence wider cam split). This has a slight idle lope and great power up to ~425 flywheel, then the HOT CAM is the next/big step IMO (without going huge). It has a definite attitude and I don't recall it's power figures. look at camaroz28.com or other boards full of Lt1's......my dad just got his stock Lt1 running in his 240z and is having trouble putting traction down past 1/3 throttle in lower gears at present (won't slap his new tires on till he's played a bit more ) lots of specs on various roller combos (like your Lt1) at sallee chevrolet's site as well (quick search will find it) ahh, here's some specs rwhp from a dyno day in WA a few friends attended last fall, may be of help/ Ellis either had his 211/219 LPE in or something a hair bigger (not a HOT cam) ________________________ Kurtis Tamez ('97 Z28 automatic (bad/clogged cat)) - 249hp & 272 lb.ft. N/A, 350hp & 424 lb.ft. w/ NOS Joe Waldron ('94 Z28 M6)- Joe's biggest mod I believe is the LT4 Hotcam kit w/ Ed Write Program, 328hp & 327 lb.ft ME ('94 Z28 M6) - All I have is intake/exhaust mods mainly, 281hp 320 lb.ft, I still had the stock y-pipe on w/ hollow cat. conv., now have a Borla y-pipe so maybe that'll change a little Shaun Hoke ('95 Firehawk M6) - Shaun's hp run is stock w/ Hypertech & hollow cat. conv., 287hp & 318 lb.ft. Steve Sampson ('94 Z28 1LE M6) - Steve has mild porting w/ 1.6 roller rockers, springs, uh, I think that's about it for HP mods, Steve? 305hp & 330 lb.ft. And finally ~Ellis~, hmmmm, well you'll just have to ask him what he's got goin' on. I believe it's a cam-job w/ 1.52 RR's(?) and the computer program changes frequently, so you'll have to ask him about that. All I can say is his BEST HP run was at 316, and the best TORQUE run was at 338. ------------------ Of all the things I've lost, I miss my mind the most. [This message has been edited by Ross C (edited April 11, 2001).]

quote: Originally posted by Kevin Shasteen: I definately plan on going crazy w/insulation if/when I actually get to convert to a V8...realy do get tired of the "Hotfoot" syndrome during the summers. Kevin, (Yea,Still an Inliner) I used Proform heat pads first on my firewall and front half of car including tunnel and then their sound stuff on top. Heat stuff was great, if I'd known it was so good I'd of used 2 layers......my trans tunnel used to cook and ebrake handle would be damn hot/no more. Kevin, does your coolant temp change with the higher rpm's/summer heat? You only mentioned ambient? You may benefit from a rad upgrade or oil cooler to keep temps nominal. My l6 wouldn't get hot no matter what (milder temps up here) but my V8 will increase in temp at sustained high rpms roadracing, nothing dangerous but my L6 would NEVER climb from my Tstat. FWIW, recalling my L6 I wouldn't cruise highway at less than 3000rpm minimal/it was just so happy at that clip/beautifully balanced motor that's for sure.

Maybe I should clarify a bit, reason I'm adding ~1" xmember/frame spacers on my ZX- V8 setup is I have a rear steer rack and other ZX issues that limit my hood clearance for a big air filter etc.....I'll be adding strut spacers and camber/caster plates etc along with my ~1" xmember spacers and new altered engine mounts/in the end all geometry should be improved. As alsil said it's not just a matter of adding the xmember spacers. ------------------ Of all the things I've lost, I miss my mind the most.

Hmm, I had something similar, can't recall if I still had some clicking or not...the tiny module that surrounds my ignition key was worn and wiggling it would get it to start or shorting the exposed starter terminals. I've since collected some of those small 'D' size battery models. My experience was on my ZX, another time was on motor fireup after an engine swap and the engine grounding strap wasn't on yet..... ------------------ Of all the things I've lost, I miss my mind the most.

I've never (knock on wood) seen a use for red yet. Perhaps it should be used on TC/flywheel bolts etc but I haven't, I always use the blue(242). Except on small fasteners too small to 'neatly' used blue or ones subject to 'slow assembly' where I'll use the red(after assembly-292?) for 'after assembly'. I'm quite fond of it for small fasteners (internal shifter small fasteners etc). (I assume by red you mean the machine/dissassembly only high torque stuff). If I was very concerned about a fastener I'd be safety wiring it like racing bikes every day.