Modern Motorsports Ltd

Yeah, should have a prototype pair shortly. Design is very close to final if not complete at present. Just need to chat with Mike before having a pair made. Have to decide if the prototype is made 'normal' or CNC as one-off CNC's are pricey.....but perhaps worthwhile in this scenario before the run is done. Racnoth, here's the running thread on our CNC rear brake bracket forthcoming: http://www.hybridz.org/cgi-bin/ultimatebb.cgi?ubb=get_topic&f=6&t=000596 it retains ebrake and uses 240sx calipers and you can stay 4 lug or go 5 lug with it. Calipers are quite preferred over the early ZX units for aesthetics and IMO for function (as I've seen both and not a fan of the early ones I'm running on my own 280zx). You'll find glancing back on the forum 'topics' can often yield several to get your ideas going and the search function is great as well. Points to Davyz, your spelling is spot on PS any followup on our CNC idea please keep to that thread/URL above. I don't want to try and keep track of several on this one topic thanks [ June 17, 2001: Message edited by: Ross C ] [ June 17, 2001: Message edited by: Ross C ]

Just by and enjoy some kvr pads (street) which will be an improvement and still yields fine rotor wear/fadefree performance and they're cheaper than stock for the types I"ve bought so far. www.kvrperformance.com

Jim, looked at your 'round two' pics/great shots FWIW, I have less than 1/8" clearance up front b/t that collar and my treads with little room to move further out. I've had zero rub since my 5lug/13" rotor install. I was leary at first but figured their should be minimal to no tire flex up top and that appears true in my case. It's 'fun' to freak people (my dad included) out showing them and acting suprised "hey/that doesn't look good..." They think I did the mods yesterday and haven't driven it yet....if it clears enough it doesn't matter how much........but if you have room to go out I'd simply move out for a wider stance and the improved trackwidth. Fine looking wheels...you need bigger rotors to fill that airspace I see their;^) BTW, did you post your wheelspecs somewhere? Perhaps I missed them? [ June 13, 2001: Message edited by: Ross C ]

I hope that $200US includes core fees (which you should be able to get back) or I'll start selling rebuilt calipers. Keep in mind you're adding some serious unsprung weight with this mod. [ June 13, 2001: Message edited by: Ross C ]

Just get your reliable local parts contact to bring 'em up to the counter and measure them or buy and give to your builder and return after/easily done with a good parts contact.

quote: Originally posted by DavyZ: Whoa! 1/2" plate? Is that how thick they are??? Yeah/stock is eXtremely stout IMO. 13.5mm thick on the hub end and 15.2mm thick on the caliper end. Not sure what Dan means by 'huge' loads, compared to what? I haven't got my steel design books back from a 'borrower' so can't do a check on it. But I am debating having a P.Engg structural go thru it to see if in fact it could be substantially thinner (not sure this cost is justified/longterm likely but shorterm unlikely). I have a hard time not believing 1/4" plate is adequate. The material thickness doesn't affect cost as the overall piece thickness is a function of the actual offset so only area for mods is the actual thickness of each end 'flange'. For an update...I have a version of it drawn up and am presently getting design feedback on it before having the first prototype made. I agree on the aluminum aspect. These are not very heavy pieces where substantial gains are to be had. If I was to go aluminum it'd most likely be aircraft grade (ie. $$) and at the least it would be engineered for my piece of mind. Wheel spacers etc where they're all in compression are simple/brackets like this with torque/torsion and potential pullout are quite different in complexity if one wants to make a 'minimal' weight/material bracket. As for looks steel can be machined for as fine a finish and then cad plated or painted or ceramic coated etc....not as easy to polish as aluminum but the material savings are justified IMO.

Shoot! I recently chucked (I'll check/quite sure I did) my 'old' V8zx auto shifter (converted OEM) as noone wanted it. The linkage bar I used with the 700R4 is still hanging on the wall. Are any of you skilled at porting heads etc? That and intake mods will make you a lot more than the smallish OE numbers those had. Especially given you'll have custom exhaust...keep your eyes out for a large K&N cone filter to put up front for cold air or a turbo 280zx airbox....or mod the hood...if you find any of the stock truck mounts you only need 'shims' for spacers/no setback like JTR so that's v. cheap. The Z28 driveshaft AIR is same OD as ZX so just marry the two together (I know I picked a donor camaro/older shaft to mate with mine years ago..hopefully yours is same) good luck and keep the q's coming

** Here, I dug up the PN for the one I've described. Transdapt 42720, cost me $37US. Chromed steel** Mine uses the same two bolt holes with the lower hole on the mount slotted. Also doesn't have any of that extra front arm, just a 'rear' arm that's more subtle wrapping around the alt and still grabbing the same two alt. bosses but from the backside (ie. 1-2" from front face), not the front which allows it to be a LOT smaller/tighter than that one you show. One single C with one end straightened a bit, barely larger overall than the alt. case itself. [ June 09, 2001: Message edited by: Ross C ]

If you can physically place your alt. directly beside your balancer at same horizontal level with ~3/4-1" air gap b/t the two then it should work fine. Sounds like you have oil filters on your inner fenders right their so you have to go high or low I suppose. Transdapt piece is so strong and simple if it does fit. As well having the balancer right their makes tension/belt swaps very easy and it's still triangulated plenty enough to prevent easy belt tossing like some quit vertical systems can allow. If I had a $300 bracket system I might want it all up high as well, I prefer it all down low with inner fenders as clear as possible as my ZX was so busy with crap in OE form it's quite obvious once it's been 'cleaned up' and you can see straight across the front of the motor with sizable gap to radiator and heads/valve covers/water pump (all Al) easily visible and accessible to clean or keep an eye on

That proform unit is a small case, same one I run. Transdapt makes a $25 chromed steel bracket to put it beside your balancer on the drivers side, it bolts on the two bosses on your engine block and works SLICK IMO. Dead low/protected on my setup by my splashpan. BTW, my '100A' unit tested out at in the 70-80A range somewhere Or my vette one puts it b/t head and fender or above valve cover, I took the lower 'reverse' route prior to my transdapt...and before that had a header/vette bolt on ala 60's style, still have that bracket tooo.

BLKMGK, I don't understand what your wrestling with. You bought a large case alt or small case? Only two sizes AFAIK. All those mounts you showed except the pass. side one were VERY high, is that what you want? The transdapt one I've written on many times now is low as is the vette one which I even have available. Standard small case alt's typically fit most fine. You're looking at a $300 pulley setup and concerned on new alt and pump? You can't exchange your alt by chance? I'm a receipt hog as I never know if I'll end up using the item or not. If you must join the lwp ranks you can get extensions/blocks for cheap as Lone mentioned. Either way theirs cheap and pricey brackets to do all that you want. Even having them fabricated is v. viable. My alt. is on drivers side right beside my balancer Do you have anything sitting their?? I have ~1" b/t balancer and alt.

No lineup, just $300 bones required. Friend has asked me to sell a new R200 3.36 R&P in the Nissan box for him. a 10mm set. Very few '79 2+2's had them if any, when I was looking I could never confirm that's where my own used 3.36 setup I'm keeping came from.

Just beware that knock sensor is best left where it is and it's effectiveness diminishes elsewhere. A few looking into moving it previously 3 or so years ago...decided to tap it deeper into the block or shorten a fitting, don't recall exactly..

I just redrilled my stub, then reclamped that piece in it's original location, marked out the metal that needed removal with a felt marker and gave it a quick nip with the die grinder...it's a basic shield for rear seals I assume like the front backing plate and inner lip that's often discarded on our cars and others after mods

What's the concern with all aluminum? The OE style aluminum cores/plastic tanks ARE a replacement item as the epoxied plastic/aluminum joints eventually fail. Doesn't happen fast but it does come up. Rad shops see this routinely and I've seen it on our '86 camaro. All aluminum has fine welds all around, just mount it decent and it's no different. Just improved cooling and lightweight. A fine rad shouldn't exceed $200US IMO unless you buck up for larger tubes (1.25 or 1.5") for some Xtreme application. Griffin is priced this way and Howed as well I believe. Top mounts can be one simple angle or U bracket just a few inches wide to stop if from lifting off if your nitro hiccups is all. Gravity takes care of the rest. OEM typically has 2 or 3 TINY rubber snubs under that LARGE top plate which makes it deceptive AIR. I didnt' want to hide my kewl rad

I agree it's a small mass and less centripetal as it's near the rotation point but was curiuos I've had some vibrations in my car for a bit but have't had time to go thru and chase them all out...I suspect a rotor a redrilled kinda poorly might have some runout but that was a late night job that's had me rolling and having fun for well over a year now I had my first enjoyable use of a transfer punch today and look fwd to using it again on other projects (used it in mounting my new ECU).

Well Dizzy is all finished. My almost new dizzy gave up it's capacitor/module and other doohickey so is up for grabs. Spent countless hours extending some parts of the wiring harness so it would work...argg...time well spent though as my ECU is now bolted into my old factory location very nicely and pops thru the old OEM wiring harness firewall hole (which was beautifully same ID as edelbrock spec'd that was sweet). Now to finish wrapping up harness (just finished final test fit and it works!). I'd of thought being aftermarket they'd give you more extra length on it. Other hotrod install I know of lengthened his whole harness , the portions I did were enough to keep me occupied. My handheld 'programmer' leads are now long enough as well to actually reach the front of my dash. Main harness exits firewall and hangs a tight right immediately behind my booster and up across just above my brake lines with only two main branches (part of my alterations), one heads off straight across drivers valve cover line of sight from the firewall and 2nd across other valve cover (reaching injectors 2 and 4 was the main reason for lengthening). Got good use out of my solder station I hadn't used in a while and put a good dent in my soldering supplies. I'd never installed self tapping screws before and sure enjoyed it today for the first time. For the ECU I was able to use one stock bolthole and for the other I used my recently acquired transfer punch to nail the centrepoint (damn those are slick!) and drill the hole. Took less than a minute or two all told once my fingers learned how to twist 720 degrees to hold everything . Fuel pump fittings arrived and I decided how to mount it...it'll bolt right to my OEM plate (wirebrushed and painted the brackets and car underside area).

Not being nitpicky Terry but just don't fully understand.....how can you not have a balance issue if you have a non-symmetrical hole pattern/removal of metal? It had 5x4.5 and now has 4x4.5 so now has 8 holes which are not overall symmetrical. Or is this so slight it's negligible? Thanks

enhancing a non turbo L6 moderately without blowing the bank? easier to leave the engine and do other mods, gears/exhaust/air filter_housing.....swap to the steepest gears you can find/afford with a new rear xhaust pipe from your OE manifold's downturn to horizontal run 2.25 or 2.5" to any turbo muffler at the back.....and put a turbo airbox and larger filter or a K&N intake box up front as well as richen your AFM 1-3 notches to help match your increased airflow, depending on your results (note this does not bump WOT mixture) I went to 3.9 gears from OE 3.36's and custom rear exhaust for <$250US and the car was TOTALLY different powerwise. Became QUICK from FUN before IMO. AFM mod was free and a turbo airbox cost me $30 or so. Best mod money I ever spent.....it only got costlier after that

Yeah, beware I got a 1/2 price set from Tirerack once of known fine treads but they were greasy as could be....DOT label showed 2.5-3yrs old? (don't recall exactly) so I/we could only pinpoint age as their fault....thankfully Yokohama honoured a return with full 'normal' credit towards any other tread of theirs....swapped to AVS Sports which I'm happy with streetwise.

Thanks for the info Terry. Is their ever a balance issue present when redrilling rotors? I know the drilling is near the centre but still curious as rotors are all balanced typically, especially the larger diameter rotors. Do have a machine shop redrill or do you do it with a template and a drill press? Is that rotor a tight fit to your studs and are you running stock diameter studs? Thanks

No kidding! wicked for a complete fine running setup!

I love my Advans for track and street BUT they are VERY darty on uneven pavement. They showed little to no wear (honestly!) on the 2500mile or so roundtrip to california last summer. Heated up nice on track without excessive effort and stayed friendly IMO. As long as you have smooth pavement or not a lot of poor pavement they're fine. A few local guys chuckle about an inadvertent lane change they make enroute to Bremerton across some v. poor pavement. They also have a fair howl from tire noise that I only noticed on the street really but thankfully it didn't get louder at higher speeds. at 50mph or so you may think a small float plane is buzzing around somewhere. I drove them dry in California and even in PISSING rain at SIR they responded very well...I didn't have near the balls to find their wet limit. A LOT of tread on those with their design which is getting quite old but seems well received still. Hope that helps. I don't recall now why I picked the A032R's over Proxes (those were my two choices....). Being able to drive to CA or WA on not haul tires (which don't fit in my car anyhow) was a huge plus for my race treads.

Well intake got installed day before yesterday....used the loctite gasket spray on both sides of gasket and on head surface....didn't want to spray on/into intake. And silicone on water ports and end seals. Throttle cable and 700R4 TV cable linkage is a PITA, edelbrock's rec'd bracket 8036 is not functional as is to run both (it would do one or the other.....) so custom is once again required . air cleaner and valve cover interfere with ideal linkage setup..lokar has a setup they wanted to sell me...futher q's revealed it's a 1" TB spacer to raise it up so linkage can clear easier! no room with my hood....Haven't decided yet if wiring harness will go thru firewall via OEM AC opening (was nice to see that/huge opening/grommet still their) or the old ECU harness opening....pass or drivers side. Oh yeah.....took way tooo long to chase down a way to go from M12x1.5 tube fitting (straight thread/seals on a washer) to a 3/8's hose flair. OEM for this fuel pump was a banjo style bolt etc with small opening....and HEI dizzy has taken a lot of hours as I was sent his old one with stuff installed as a small cap dizzy....so he modified it all to fit his smallcap and I had to remove (his dizzy was corroed to hell) it all/unmodify and some fasteners were absent so time ticked away again..setting up Hall sensor was easy but timely as reassembly and check tolerances..dissasemble/alter/reassemble...overall having fun but timeline is tightening up.....decided to leave fuel line replacement till later or it would sacrifice my timeline (start new job on monday) BUT the powdercoat it showed up with turns out to match my paint wickedly

DanK's talking S&S still, 1.5" cast primary manifolds, sweet looking units the rodders enjoy coating all sorts of colours. http://www.centuryperformance.com/detail.asp?Product_ID=SDH-QP1000 Full S&S listings here http://www.centuryperformance.com/sanderson/apps.htm