Modern Motorsports Ltd

quote: Originally posted by BLKMGK: Start by soundproofing the rear!for cheaper sound proofing materials. Hrm, you running dual? The rear will be soundproofed, that's a given. I've been using Proform heat shield pads and sound pads/v. pleased with price and performance. Made a huge difference in heat and sound, can't roast burgers on my tranny tunnel any more but it was a worthwhile tradeoff Single exhaust as described up above. I do recall your sound proofing thread and sources/including an auction site that routinely had kits at good pricing AIR. ------------------ Of all the things I've lost, I miss my mind the most.

Putting the Lt1/T56 in and out of my dad's 240 during numerous dimensional checks was fairly easy with them bolted together. We used my tilter on the end of a hook. It can be tight on the hoist itself but you keep the crank on opposite end of hoist so the handle is exposed easily. Having it up a decent height in the air is handy (allows tailshaft room) and if you have the rear even higher than front can be even easier as your 'entry' angle is decreased. As well a mat or floorjack can hold that tailshaft and help you walk it back once it's 2/3's of the way in. Only thing we had to keep an eye on was the fuel lines at firewall that they never got crushed in any enginen rearward movements during install (they were moved up and sideways to be out of the way and rerouted). PS you have the headers installed? Can be done either way, I favour installing them ahead myself. Great to hear you're making steady progress Jim ! ------------------ Of all the things I've lost, I miss my mind the most.

Only two wires going to mine, tach and 12V Batt. Do use a larger Batt wire, I've seen a lot of variation but GM always had a large one with the plastic clip on the end. I haven't used that clip yet (as yard ones are brittle wire I find) but I should..only once has my 'crimp' clip slipped off and that killed it pretty quick Knowing how much wiring I"ve removed from my ZX their must still be a lot that can be removed on a Z I'd guess. My fenders are pretty clean now but I can still take out a lot under my dash (warning system) ------------------ Of all the things I've lost, I miss my mind the most.

quote: Originally posted by Racin_Jason: Ron and BLK~ BTW: I'm with Mike on this one...why not BOTH? The 383 kits are about the same price as rebuilding a 350 and a roller 383 is a beautiful thing! Jason Why not both as cost is about the same?? Cause cost can be v. different. Many (most on other lists I'm on) do not buy all new crank/rods/pistons) for a 450hp motor. Reliable shortblocks seem quite common IME and others. Mine was practically free as noted above and I just mic'd the '68 327 I ran for a few years for it's new owner and it was almost as new! Didn't need boring at all, just a hone/rering would've been fine. Same for quite a few others who've posted their patient/lucky finds here as well. If you've decided to spend all new for your design/build then their may be minimal cost difference but if used to barely used is an option it's different. Their are more and more newer style 350 blocks available used lately and given cams and lifters are a lot cheaper for them it just sways me that way. ------------------ Of all the things I've lost, I miss my mind the most.

FWIW, force required to remove those has varied from 300-700ft-lbs. Mine came easy with a '380' ftlb CH heavy duty gun. A friends 500ftlb gun couldn't touch his and only a 700ftlb one at work would remove his. One I did in a yard only took my 180lb frame on the end of 4ft of sleeved prybars, deflection of pry bar system was 5-6"+! Just FYI

quote: Originally posted by Racin_Jason: Well to address the original question, I would go with the 383 hands down. ...almost 40 cubes is going to do more for you in this case. The 383 will give quite a bit more torque..especially down low and thats where you really feel it. The 383 should realistically outpower the 350 throughout the band I was surprised this didn't come up earlier. NO REPLACEMENT FOR DISPLACEMENT (talking V8 builds), you get extra hp/tq across complete power band with milder manners for same power as lesser cubed motor. But I have to disagree on need/wanting/the extra torque down low where you 'feel' it as you say Jason. We need extra torque their (in 1st gear anyhow, and after that who's below 3k) like a hole in the head. It really becomes a driver skill issue with many builds here as well as others as excess power/torque is present. That's where a Victor Jr. can only be win/win IMO, more power mid to top and less torque but it's still enough to be in excess so no loss is experienced I'd chose cubes over roller anyday up front. Easier to convert to roller later than cubes Ross (yes, in the end we will have it all!) ------------------ Of all the things I've lost, I miss my mind the most.

You can't compare any OEM automatic setups to a built auto V8Z setup. OEM automatics are like OEM 70's smogged V8's. Doggone slow and only good at getting from A-B with no fun in between. A proper built auto will snap you in a flash and shift faster than you can even think of grabbing that $100 on the dash. I do prefer stick's but it's just so suitable for my app. The auto can 'unlock' instant and no brake hp copmared to that lockup you can get at rear wheels in a stick under poor/sudden traction loss if you lift. I drove my stick thru the Edmonton icey/snowy winters fine but know it would be totally different now with this setup. If you ever have a chance to drive a built auto do take it. The major difference IMO b/t stick/built auto is you can't match revs the same on downshifts. But I can grab a lower gear at will/in a flash on the roadcourse with my right toe if need be or feather it in on corner apex. I still feel sticks are best overall but many who've ridden with me have had their eyes opened at what an auto can be like Just wanted to keep the orange orange and the apple a real apple ------------------ Of all the things I've lost, I miss my mind the most.

quote: Originally posted by Dan Juday: Thanks Ross, it's Saturday and I'm going to stick my head in there and look around. But I need more than a boss. So, where on the back of the block is this boss suppose to be? I meant a threaded hole. Don't recall what was in mine originally, likely a hex pipe plug. It's on the rear upward facing lip of your block RIGHT behind your intake on a non TPI/TBI setup (not dead familiar with your layout back their). Just a few inches over from the distributor, it doesn't clear the intake seal by much and that area on my car collects dirt/dust so I could see it being masked/hard to find as my bay is all silver so on darker engine bays/overhead plenums etc it'd only be harder to find. ------------------ Of all the things I've lost, I miss my mind the most.

quote: Originally posted by Rick Johnson: Ross, I have a medium performance 383 wiith a 700R4. I have 1 3/4 inch tube long headers into 2 1/2 collectors into 2 1/2 mandrell bent pipes Great info Rick and others. My build is 'intended' to have same power as yours was putting out. I want mine literally quiet if possible at cruise and mild throttle (ie. cruising on the highway and you need mild throttle to pass occasionally or just maintain changing speed in traffic). What would you reccomend to knock the noise down one more notch from what you had? I want this car to finally be comfortable for my wife to go on long trips with me and the sound is one of a few remaining roadblocks. (car is soundproofed on front half/rear remains to be done, I want the exhaust quieter as well). At full throttle it can growl somewhat but 90% of the time being quiet is fine by me, a lot less police attention is attracted let alone I prefer the stealth factor for security as well. ------------------ Of all the things I've lost, I miss my mind the most.

quote: Originally posted by pauli: eh, in the rain, just start in second. hell, with a v8 and six gears, start in third if you've got a good clutch, a good shifter, good throttle response, and good sense, a manual should give you a good bit more control than an automatic. Have you got a T56? If I'm cruising under mild power at 1100 rpm I can 'flash' to serious power easily but if I only want mild/smooth power it's easy to modulate given the torque convertor. I guess I have little knowledge of what it's like to drive a V8Z with a stick at 1100rpm and know what throttle response is like. If I need a jab for a lane position it's easy or if I need to modulate v. carefully while hydroplaning at 75mph (3 major times on Wednesday in a major downpour, albeit road is signed at 50mph) I feel comfortable doing it. ------------------ Of all the things I've lost, I miss my mind the most.

Rick, as I've never had to do any bearing replacement I'd love to hear a lowdown on procedure you went thru to R&R your rod and main bearings? I wasn't aware you can do all that from underneath/motor still in/heads on etc. I've only popped off main caps to inspect bearings before. I assume you had to remove your crank and thus front cover as well? or can you lower crank slightly/angled to access all bearings and how does rod removal happen just for starters of what I'm wondering...bearings are only thing I've never done on an engine I guess let alone in the vehicle (that and freeze plugs). thanks for any info (I'd feel a lot better if I felt it was something doable myself.....I've ALWAYS panicked when I thought I might have a bearing problem) ------------------ Of all the things I've lost, I miss my mind the most.

quote: Originally posted by DavyZ: Great reading, Ross, but those of us on a tight budget are probably better off using a flat tappet cam, at least in the short run. Rollers become more cost effective in the long run since they are much less prone to wear. I went flat tappet due to extreme cost constraints, but would go roller in a heartbeat next time around if the money is there. David David, I agree with you completely and I was running flat tappet and would still be if my roller motor hadn't worked out so cheap. $450US for a full vortec shortblock (<12k miles/mint bores etc)with new OEM roller lifters and a new ZZ4 roller cam from THE engine man at the main GMPP dealer in BC. I either got the cam and lifters for free or the full shortblock and then some. I also have a little more 'insider' info on where Chuck's coming from and his prior plans and ongoing so painted my post appropriately If one can possibly build on a newer block as their platform then going roller is a LOT cheaper as lifters routinely come available as do the cams (and the OE style/LT1/ZZ4/etc cams are cheap used in as new shape), and you can bolt up a T56 a lot cheaper as well. Big potential for overall savings. Local guy I came across has two nice 'new-gen' blocks as he called (vortec blocks). Bolt all old stuff on (anyone know if lifter bore is same/ie. can you run flat tappet lifters/non roller and then swap later on these blocks?) and enjoy. And as Pete says and most anyone who seeks out this site is aware, all combos/cars/motors/cams etc only work as a matched package. Match your heads/cam/intake/exhaust etc etc or you're wasting dough. How fast do you want to spend? ------------------ Of all the things I've lost, I miss my mind the most.

quote: Originally posted by Fastzdriver: Thanks for the reply but i am a little curious as to if anyone here has used both and can really tell me some pros and cons of the 2. i know both are excellent transmissions but i am concerned as to which would be more worth my while concidering the amount of driving i do. Once again any info would be greatly appreciated. thanks [This message has been edited by Fastzdriver (edited March 16, 2001).] What kind of driving? If vast majority highway AND in good/dry weather I'd go T56. I run a 700R4 and contrary to what many say I row my own all the time. It's been built up and I run a Hammer shifter and you can't shift your stick as quick as this setup. It's not ideal for the road racing I've done and v. much enjoy but still a lot of fun. I drive a LOT in commuter type traffic previously for my work and recently for school and would go nuts with a T56 or any stick. Not just due to traffic, I can't picture (if anyone can prove this otherwise I'd love to know about it) driving my build safely in our v. rainy pacific nw weather 365/yr with a stick. Pulling away from lights/shifts etc during this weather seem like a tall order. Maybe I'm wrong but my auto seems to allow me great range in feathering my throttle coming in on launch/gear changes/cornering/engine braking can be practically eliminated reducing that 'safety' hindrance as well in minimal traction moments. I've raced quite a few in sticks with anything from crap tires to good rain tires and have always been able to put it down better on the street in questionable conditions. You can have a lot of fun with a 700R4 done right. You should get 20mpg on a well built non-wild motor and 700R4 and 3.7 gears. I get 20mpg highway with my setup in my heavier (3100 lbs loaded with me and 7/8's fuel) 280zx with a roller 350/ZZ4 cam (1.6 intake/1.52 exhaust) 64cc rpm heads/vic. Jr/performer 600cfm carb for an eg. I'm turning 3000rpm at 80mph from memory on 245/45/16s. With EFI and some exhaust/intake ipmrovements I'd expect mid 20's for mileage. It certainly won't cost you much to run the 700R4 interim if you are decided on the T56. My prior work paid v. well if I could keep going straight thru the day so eating/driving with my auto was ideal as I was fully billable the whole day When you feel like it you row your own, other times just stomp and hang on In town I'd venture you would definitely get better mpg with a 700R4. I cruise around at 30-40mph doing 1000-1200 rpm typically. I have no idea typical rpm's the T56 guys cruise around at (or even what gear for that matter) but I'd assume they're floating 1500rpm minimum....I've been wanting to ask what rpm's/gears they typically use etc as I would like a T56 but am v. concerned I might sacrifice what year round driveability I have with my 700R4 setup. ------------------ Of all the things I've lost, I miss my mind the most.

quote: Originally posted by chass23: 1. A Stroker 383 with 6" rods and JE pistons OR 2. A 350 with a roller Camshaft Forgive me if i have this wrong; but Roller Lifters/Cams don't really save that much power but rather enable a much more aggressive CAM profile-Correct? If that is the case then do these engines still suffer from big CAM syndrome (no vacuum, crappy idle etc etc) If anybody has a pointer to information on Roller Cams versus non Roller CAMs I would love to read up. Howdy Chuck an article I really enjoyed and can't even guess how many times I'd read it over the years http://www.idavette.net/hib/camcon.htm the perfect article, what the current non roller build is, dyno run, what's needed to go roller, install, dyno, gains etc Rollers do save power, it's a lot easier for a lifter to do it's job as a roller than as a hydraulic non roller lifter. It's job is so much easier it doesn't sweat cause it doesn't heat up from the extra work. This savings in work (it does less work/less heat created/less hp lost) does add up to a few ponies and efficiency. I literally gained 2mpg with just roller rockers which surprised me but was my only change at that time with my 327. HTH Once you understand the differing lobe profiles it's easier to understand mannerism differences. If you want 300rwhp you will need a lumpy idled cam in a non roller motor that will be making less vaccuum. You can run quite a smooth roller cam/motor and get 300rwhp quite easily and have plenty of vaccuum. Manners are much better for a roller motor vs. non roller motor IF both are built for same overall peak power and similar (as best can be done, non roller is less broad and more peaky) power bands. For the same duration....ahh, I'll post in this post written by a good friend who might be around but I'm not sure he wants his name tagged to it or not...Let's just say it's well written The cam is the "ATTITUDE" of the engine and is the most responsible for when, how, where, the power comes on and also exhaust emissions. Choosing a cam is quite involved if you try and pick a cam for your application you have lobe separation, advertised duration, duration at .050" in. lift, lift under the curve, CAM intensity, and several other factors to mull over. Here are a few things to help in choosing your cam. Lobe Separation is the distance between the peak lift of the Intake and Exhaust lobes. This is also referred to as Overlap. The more overlap, less lobe separation, the rougher the idle, more exhaust pollutants and to a point, more PEAK torque. The Chev small block responds best (Max Power) to a cam with a lobe separation of between 105-108 degrees, with out much regard as to duration, lift, intake and exhaust flow. There is a down side to this much overlap. The engine wont idle very well, lots of exhaust pollutants, even worse with more duration as there will be more overlap for a given lobe separation. Also tighter lobe separation tends to deliver PEAKIER powerbands. Spreading the lobe separation to around 110 degrees makes the engine a little more civilized. 110 degrees works well for a strong street Chev small block. The factory uses between 112-114 degrees separation to meet emissions and give good driveability and mileage. This also gives a flatter power band at the expense of peak torque though. That is why when you install an after market cam with a lobe separation of 110 degrees even though the duration is the same it really comes alive, mileage and emissions suffers though. Cam intensity is also another very important factor. With a more "INTENSE" cam, you can get the power of a bigger cam with the driveability and emissions/mileage of a milder cam at the expense of valvetrain wear and initial expense. Roller cams are VERY "intense" cams and are money well spent if you want every last bit of performance, though not necessary for building just a strong small block. The more intense a cam is the more lift you have under the curve. That is, when you graph out a cams profile you will note that a cam that gets the valves off the seat faster than a less "intense" cam it is said to be more "intense". This is a very good thing from a power standpoint. The down side is Valvetrain wear. The faster the cam opens the valve, the harder it is on the cam lobe itself and the springs as well. If you look at a Top Fuel cam profile you notice that the valve is literally shot off of the valve seat and slammed back down onto it. It runs in under 5 secs and has to replace the valve springs every pass as the springs are wore out. That is an extreme example but I think you get the point. Duration is a widely used term in bench racing. When evaluating cams based on duration, try and compare the advertised duration and the duration .050" in. on the same cam. For example, a Comp Cams cam for a small block Chev with a advertised duration of 270 degrees and a duration @ .050" in. is 220 degrees. There is 50 degrees difference between these two numbers on this particular cam. Use this as a "reference" for the cams intensity. I use the term "reference" loosely. Some cam manufactures state their advertised duration @ .004" in. and others will state advertised duration @ .006" in. This will change things abit, you can get an idea of by how much by studying a few graphed out cam profiles. The cam I just mentioned is fairly intense. On the OEM side of the spectrum the small block Chev with a cam with 240 degrees advertised duration and 160 degrees @ .050" in. This cam is less intense than the other, therefore easier on the valve train, 100,000 mile + engine, weak on performance. The more intense cam will need at least the springs, if not the cam and lifters replaced by approx. 60,000 miles depending on the owners driving habits. Lift is one of those things that you can't have enough of. The more the better, until Valvetrain reliability becomes compromised. Lets use the Chev small block as an example again. The 350 has a 4" in. bore with a 3.5" in stroke, (327 has 4" inch bore 3.25" stroke), Each 4" hole is trying to fill itself with 3.5" in deep column of air around a 1.94" in. valve head, approx. 1.75" seat diameter and that is not taking into account that the valve stem is also taking up room here as well. This is called the "open curtain area". As you can see the engine really has to work to fill each large cylinder through a small opening in a very short period of time. This is why multivalve engines make so much power per a given displacement, they have much more valve area than the traditional 2 valve per cylinder engines. ------------------ Of all the things I've lost, I miss my mind the most.

quote: Originally posted by Dan Juday: Your right Jeff. I have the Helm manual and it is pretty clear. But you guys are off topic! Ask your friends, can I put the dang sender there or not? Easy tex! You can put the sender anywhere under pressure that you want. You're not looking to log it like EFI outputs etc. Just yes I have enough pressure or no not enough, shut off the fuel pump. Are you sure you don't have that boss at the rear of the block? It's quite small and easy to miss. My '68 327 had it and so does my '98 350 so I'd be quite surprised if yours does not. BLKMGK, the oil pressure/JTR piece was to shutdown your fuel pump current supply if you loose oil pressure, you run a bypass wire to your starter solenoid (at least I did) to get the fuel pump running during cranking prior to oil pressure being built. IME it will typically fire right up on first touch of cranking with carb/float bowls unless it's sat 10+ days or I have a LOT of initial timing dialed in. In that event (that it's been sitting) I just cross my oil pressure/fuel pump wires and let the pump run 4-5 seconds until my underhood fuel PSI guage comes up and then slip the wires back on and fire it up. Very handy having that sensor for both safety and ease of starting after sitting for a while w/o cranking over much. ------------------ Of all the things I've lost, I miss my mind the most.

quote: Originally posted by Rick Johnson: I must add that if you want a truly quiet system you must use 2 mufflers in series. I built the new 3 1/2" system with only a Dynomax in the rear and it resonates loudly below 2000 RPM. My preference for an additional resonator is the Borla Multi core muffler. It's 4 1/4 x 7 7/8 case is small enough to fit under the driveshaft. It is very pricy but it is quiet while offering a straight thru design. Rick, I"ve experienced your resonance on two systems now. It was only absent on the one I had a resonator on and that was too restrictive (poorly bent/made system as well!). What setup/header sizes/motor/any dyno data did you run with the 3" setup with borla resonator you describe? My new system is going to be a single pipe still but dual mufflers/bottle of some sort/undecided as of yet. It HAS to be quiet at cruise and mild throttle especially up to 2500rpm. My setup after other mods sitting on my shelf will be 3-325rwhp (1-3/4" headers). Money is a concern but not a real limit after past two systems SUCKED for my purposes and I'm now mor knowledgeable on pros/cons. ------------------ Of all the things I've lost, I miss my mind the most.

quote: Originally posted by madmanadam: Was wondering what starter to use on a ZZ4 engine. Does anyone one have a part number or price. I just want to make sure I have the right set up. Thanks Soon go Zoom good to see you madmanadam! Funny, I got my flexplate donated from a friends ZZ4 in Everett It's the smaller of the two offerings, 153 tooth 12-3/4" AIR. Many vettes' and 305 camaro's had this starter. Just tell them you want a starter for a 153 tooth flywheel. Any true starter rebuilder should know in a flash which ones you can pick from. I'd setup a remote Ford Solenoid at the same time. What's the info on your buildup? New build or just a different V8 going in or..... Plan on any track fun? Events in WA have started up already. I enjoy lapping days at SIR etc.....be great to have another Z out and about to keep the new iron in line;^) ------------------ Of all the things I've lost, I miss my mind the most.

quote: Originally posted by Owen: I just called right now, 11:50 PST and there are still 4 left. Would it be best for me to grab one of these and do what Pete is doing, or just wait or get a used R200 non-LSD for around 50 bucks? What if I get a used one and then swap in LSD parts, is this possible. Really strapped on cash... Owen Owen, pass on it IMO. Only real value their is for someone with nothing that really wants a 3.54 open diff and doesn't want to mess with rebuilding in any manner. $300US is a big tag IMO for some new bearings/seals. Bearings and seals are way less and no biggie to replace and 3.54's are a dime a dozen for anyone with patience. If you're doing an LSD you need to go into it anyhow so just replace what' pertinent at that time. It's the LSD parts if you need them that really add up new, not bearings/seals. And R200 gears last VERY well IME. I've put 3 dozen plus R200's at least from under my noise out to Z fans (6+ on this board) running anywhere from OEM to 400+V8 setups, just check that all's tight and gear wear pattern is good to spare yourself from unneeded expenses later on. New LSD setups at a discount is exciting..new open leggers I don't see much if any advantage over a used unit. The used unit you KNOW the gears are wearing well by checking or they'd of never lived as well as they did/ie. proven. just my .02c and canadian at that....back to my studies ------------------ Of all the things I've lost, I miss my mind the most.

Just keep in mind the limited lift on the vortec's before getting into offset keepers etc. You won't fit a 425hp cam on the vortecs without a good effort/$. If you're already buying all new valvetrain then that's OK. A friend just sold a couple Vortec sets with the right keepers/intake for a nice deal..too bad. I wouldn't put much $ into those large chamber heads you have for your power intentions, just my .02c. Keep your eyes out for a good used aluminum set that'll suit your expectations. You'll gain in a few arenas that way. Free hp from the extra compression/same octane w/ alum. and weight/out of the box flow of many etc.

quote: Originally posted by David 280Z: well, i just finished the R200 swap into my 79 280ZX a few hours ago. the only snag i ran into is having to modify the rear mount. beyond that it was easy and straight forward. What did you modify on the rear mount? Did you reverse the mount that comes thru the body/chassis? Gas tank usually has to be dropped a ways to pull it out and reverse it as the R180 position is reverse of R200, as I recall (was a few years ago). ------------------ Of all the things I've lost, I miss my mind the most.

Sean, what did your plugs look like, what were compression readings, and I assume you drained your oil? (only heard about 'dipstick' readings) I've been v. busy so didn't catch this thread till today....PS have your heads tested to see if your valves are sealing 100%, $ well spent and cheap to have done. If you're not aware of the valvesprings condition you may want to check that out too since they're off and you seem to be spending some $ to do it right. ------------------ Of all the things I've lost, I miss my mind the most. [This message has been edited by Ross C (edited March 01, 2001).]

quote: Originally posted by 1z2c: I found some old turbine wheels(14,S)by 7 1/2 inches wide that came off a z. My question is what is the ideal tire size I need to run on these rims?I have a set of brand new tires that are 205/70/14.Is this a good size to run.My z has 350hp to 400hp. Any suggestions? depends on how tight you want it to handle twisties, I like a 225/50/16 on a 16x7" rim and a 245/45/16 on an 16x8" rim and that suits me fine for daily (bit rough) and road course/lapping days, not sure what choices you'll have in wider rubber for 14" rims, before you buck up you may want to check out selling those as someone will bid it up I'm sure and putting your sale $ towards some 16's (custom/centreline or otherwise) or a 5lug conversion/setup I can get 5lug Riken's in 16x7 brand new for ~$500US in +20mm offset but that does require 4 spacers of ~1/2-1" depending on where you want to place your wheels. Getting into 5lug is v. enjoyable with tons of wheels going around new and used etc.

quote: Originally posted by TonyM: Specs on the ZZ430 from the Sallee Chevrolet website: ZZ430 ENGINE SPECIFICATIONS Sweet stuff is using all that great R&D GM has done use any 350 shortblock, used roller is preferred for cost current vortec bottom end takes any 'normal' (ie. oldstyle heads) bolt on edelbrock rpm's (9.4:1 overall compression and alum. heads = 87 octane and your pick of roller cams.....an Lt1 v. cheap OE cam for up to 350ish hp, ZZ4 cam for 410-420hp (hope to dyno mine this summer to back up what impala Lt1's with ZZ4's have already proven), HOT cam or any other similar one for 420+hp, I'd take a ZZ4 having heard HOT cam's and knowing how much smoother my ZZ4 sounds for my daily beast This can be a cheap motor for what you get and you can swap heads/intakes with the common bolt patterns AND bolt up a T56 if you decide with a stock/cheap clutch I'd jump at any vortec shortblock (or longblock if price is right/flip those heads and you're off to the races

even if the compression is high and it has iron heads it could work out VERY good if you flip the heads and buy some appropriate aluminum ones IF you know you can get a decent street compression (I run 9.4:1 with aluminum heads on 87octane all year round . Likely some decent $ by flipping that pan as well I wouldn't be afraid of a used motor. See if you can run it or check the oil/drain plug if it wasn't just serviced to see if any metal wear at all etc. Just mic'd my 'old' 327 and a few bores had <.5 of a thou wear in them max was <1.5 in a few as well surprised me big time for such unknown history.......found out my metal on my drain plug was from a flat lobe on my cam that I never knew about till today when I went to sell it;^) Uh.....I was only looking at the new one I was installing, not the old one that came out.....so that's how I put a pushrod thru a rocker arm;^)