Modern Motorsports Ltd

Why recore at all Nigel? For ~$180US you can step to a far superior 2 row aluminum Griffin as many of us V8's and others are using. When my temp finally starts to climb I know it's time to check my rad fluid as it's literally half empty by then (I have a slow leak to attend to ) so I know the rad works OK Search the archives and you'll find lots of info.

"Polish smooth, but not shiney, a smooth wall with some texture to it will give better automization than one thats totally smooth and mirrored looking" This will be a dry manifold so atomization won't be a consideration unless I go to a wet nitrous setup later on Ideally mirror finish would be great from some mech/chem eng engine builder buds but not realistic Anyone know who offers the underside sheet metal 'shields' to keep the hot oil off the underside of the intake? I'd like to get one at my favourite auto shop and copy it as I have some Xtra scrap and return....

quote: Originally posted by ellobo97: Hey Ross. I have Headman Block Hugger Headers in my zx, and just had the collecter on the driver side, modified and relocated down around the steering shaft. Sure Sean, I'd love to see the pics. Once we see how things can be modified it helps envision our own plans Rewarder offered to make them for me and ship them uncoated to me, then I can alter however....add pipe and mandrel elbow on bottom etc and ship back for them to coat (they won't take the coating cost out of the header and let me get them coated locally). Undecided as of yet...if I see your pics and can give them more precise info it'll help. I dont' see how you saying moving your engine back 1.5" made the header alteration 'less' necessary? Moving my motor back places the header further back and also increases the distance from engine block to steering shaft, thus header has to be bent/wrapped further toward inner fender to come around the steering shaft and drop b/t shaft and inner fender. Is yours routed differently? Look fwd to pics

I wanted to see what's offered/labelled as such but will likely source the 'bits' I need locally. A great polisher (owns some gold medallion Z's) just rec'd http://store.yahoo.com/toolsplus/sai45007.html for the full job......looks pretty versatile, will check it out when time comes I'd post the pic here but I haven't reinstalled Netscape yet and IE is a PITA for the 'view image' etc.

Thanks for the info. Mine's a ZX. No desire for long tubes here. Don't recall all my reasoning on that but it involved a lot of discussion with long toothed friends/rodders and dyno'd combos pros/cons and decided their was little to no gains by long tubes for my setup (not to change this thread). Too bad rewarder wasn't more receptive when you phoned (as I'd like more direct feedback ). I got good airtime each phonecall. The offer to send them out and measure/mock up sure sounds good! and then they'd produce your 'custom' set and your extra cost is the shipping each way of the 1st set? He gave me measurements on the phone of header to block measurements in a few locations (wish I could find them now!) and I was going to measure mine the same giving him an 'envelope' of room to work within. I too was wanting the tubes angled back on drivers side (tight to starter on pass. side so only a minor angle their maybe as you state). Good point on reducing 3->2.5 as Y pipe progresses, hadnt' thought of that..more $ in system

Time permitting I'm planning to do some 'smoothing' ( I saw that as I doubt I'll get to full blown polishing) on my intake runners on my victor Jr. for my EFI (dry manifold) install. I want to enhance flow as well as reduce heat transfer from intake to the incoming air. I also plan to make/install a small sheet metal shield on the intake underside to stop hot oil from splashing on the underside of the intake and transmitting heat to the intake. I see the results as free hp/efficiency so if I can fit in these mods I'd like to. What's the best tools to smooth out the intake runners and 2nd part polish if in fact I get that far? I have a single speed (28k rpm) Dremela and an air die grinder. I know a true polish would have the greatest effect but the time req'd will not likely be spent to see my own reflection in mirror finish ports I'll have to check my Eastwood catalog later on but thought I'd get this thread started

quote: Originally posted by John Adkins: The stock Mopar small block mounts positions are in the same position that the JTR offset mount plates If I understand correctly (given two separate replies seem to say same thing) you'd then need 'reverse' offset plates to put the mopar in the ZX assuming you mount to the crossmember horns on the xmember. Or weld plates to your xmember (triangulate your own horn).

Retarding your timing makes for a cleaner burn/less power but cleaner burn as emissions sniffers want. I've always had to drop my sbc back to near zero or even less initial timing. I'd suspect your OE Z would pass at stock setting (8 or 10 initial??) but 4 or 6 couldn't hurt your test at all IMO.

Well having finished my degree now I got this one month off till I start my new job. Ann said she'd get me the headers I've been wanting for my upcoming Bday I was quite stoked Now I need to confirm with rewarder (havent' talked to them since last fall/summer) about ease of plug acess. As well I need to measure up my block/engine bay dimensions for a few custom bends especially on the drivers side/steering issue. Still somewhat undecided on whether the headers should be brought out and around the steering shaft OR if the steering shaft should be sectioned/U jointed/tied to fenderwell so the header can be brought down tight to block. I figure either mod is a one time thing and as I'll want my exhaust closer to my frame rail than oilpan anyhow to clear oil filter (and possible T56 slave later on) that I may as well have headers brought out and down by the rail.....comments/ideers? It's the welding required for the steering mod that has me leary as I can't do that myself and steering 'joint' kits are pricey AIR. Anyone know exactly what parts I'd need and approimate cost? one extra steering shaft with stock Ujoint from a parts car and a sperical tie rod with ID to match OD of rod with tie rod attached to inner fender?? .....thanks in advance for all thoughts and ideers.... PS in my current setup headers are bent outward about 2" to come outside and then drop down between steering shaft and inner fender. Anyone have experience with larger tube headers and plug access? Any key q's to ask rewarder or stipulate to be customized? Oh yeah.....I'm debating b/t 2.5 or 3" collectors 3" would just be #1 on the kewl factor I'd think but may prove troublesome to fit and compromise a properly sized Y pipe to mate with the rear single pipe. (dual 3" Y to single 3" is quite a reduction and not a lot of 3.5" pipe around or race mufflers for decent cost....)

quote: Originally posted by pparaska: Just wondering why people relocate the oil filter. I've always been curious too Pete. I assumed a few doing it were installing oil coolers as well. My filter has similar room as yours. Only a rather low install or running the KC4 oil cooler (sandwhich style/I ran it and hope to reinstall if I have the depth) would have me putting a relocation kit on. It can offer a drop in resistance as both filters are run in parallel but given hoses etc I can't see the overall pressure drop reduction being a net positive in comparison. As I understand it, on the racecars I typically see it on, it's mainly a matter of easy access and twice the filtering area being in parallel if something should happen proper filtering is more likely to be retained...thoughts/ideers...BTW, I really like that KC4 sandwhich style got one and a spare on the shelf. It dropped 20 degrees in the 4th gen camaro chassis and you just plumb two coolant lines to it (I'm not a fan of plumbing oil outside my motor). I think my web detailing that has long died so I should be doing some updating.......

My RED top is only 38 lbs. Besides it's small size/weight and huge CCA of 800 given size etc, a bonus huge plus for me was the side mounts on it. Allowed me to just take my cables very smoothly from it's side (shortened header bolts secure my huge lugs) to my frame rail and fwd to engine bay (went inside rocker to firewall/staying inside car) where it comes straight thru and ties nicely to my Ford HD solenoid. I was originally suprised to find them at a marine/auto supply place locally at reasonable prices. Here's a link for optima specs: http://www.dcbattery.com/optima2.html

Jake, the driveshaft flange adaptor is unique to that location. Not applicable to halfshaft transitions, are you thinking custom halfshafts with this Ujoint adaptor? Vette diff is wider AIR (I had an '82 measured it up/toyed with the thought) so some sort of 'new' halfshaft is needed and telescoping unless you redesign the rear suspension. Vettes use halfshafts as structural members whereas Z's do not. You running some big power? OE R200 and CV halfshafts seem v. stout in reasonable use. It sure would be nice to achieve a decent install method for an IRS with greater gear selection though. The vette unit I had was 2.79's and it's gear range was 2.59's->3.73's keeping the same carrier.....nice range for us

quote: Originally posted by v-8 Zfreak: the only thing different is that the firewall it three inches closer to the crossmember so you wont be able to set it as farback as a z. I'm going with a dodge 360 since their motor mounts are up front on the block instead of the back (ala chevy) so hopefully i should't need a offset plate setup on my mounts like the chevy guys do. plus I'm just a mopar fan and the steering rack/clearances are different as up to 3 or more different ZX steering setups so headers can be a PITA -chevy motors will have their motor mounts DEAD EVEN with the crossmember mount for a direct (ie. no offset) bolt up, if Mopar motor is further fwd you will need offset plates without hacking your firewall assuming a mopar motor is as long as a chevy -for kits their are some out their (John's/MSA) but none are reccomended and parts they do supply are easily made by yourself or any fabricator for cheap, had all mine made for a $20 bottle of hooch by a welder/fabricator, go thru the site links you can find links (where's our 'links' tab?) by going thru Pete's page listed on the hybridz homepage and direct ZX info including an old writeup of mine with that 3" etc info at http://24.179.154.47/jcaudle/V8index.html where there are writeups and pics of a few installs any q's after that feel free

quote: Originally posted by Owen: Well, if business is conducted with someone on the site, whether good or bad, others have a right to know. I just wanted to show what they looked like so others would know what I was discontent about. Owen Agreed/pics are worth a thousand words. I just figured this was settled publicly previously. I know I didn't doubt you before and the pics are very clear. FWIW, I did the wife's camaro's brakes the other day and even with only 2 yr old calipers it took good patience with my large fencing pliers to return the pistons to their home for accomodating new brake pads. I'ver never quite seen rust like that on a functioning piece though....with that oxidation you'd have to bet the rest had suffered as you described. [ May 07, 2001: Message edited by: Ross C ]

Quite an intriguing idea Owen. You planning numerous removal and installs My main concern would be having a flexible connection such as the stock setup. I had an offset front end collision with another vehicle last year and I was v. surprised at how well my ZX took the impact. A big factor in my being able to keep the car was the vast majority of damage took place fwd of my crossmember with that area twisting and getting 'kinked' sideways. It was then that I learned about various features in the inner fenders and other areas that absorb and crumple preventing significant load transmission further back in the chassis. Might not be a concern at all for others but I had a serious head on impact on pass. front and I'm not sure how it would've worked out if that area was significantly stiffened/more rigid. Would it transfer more force into the ****pit and cause twist back their.....I love your idea but that's just one concern I'd have/whether well founded or not

Hmm, your links weren't working for me Owen.

Ron, your higher CO could be strictly due to needing a new air filter (or not just leaving your old one out for the test )if your other readings were good. Depending on your costs to test/number of tests allowed I might not do too much effort in tuning/parts. (I enjoy repeat test to see influences etc ) We set mine up on a scope in January and really tweaked it down....then I put my air filter back on to drive to the test station and forgot to remove it prior to testing and that one CO at idle almost failed me as a result....I had 3.81 and my limit was 3.90 I directly recall the CO/idle and that it can be directly related to your air intake/filter. Here's my other passing readings just for others info: (Limit in brackets) Driving: HC ppm 4 (217) CO % 0.47 (1.52) NOx ppm 298 (2199) Idle: HC ppm 69 (342) CO % 3.81 (3.90) Anyone else needing to do emissions I kept all tuning/setup data (600 performer)for above 'pass' on my ZZ4 cammed 350 with no cats/evap cannister etc. Idle was 1050, no vac. advance, 6 deg. total timing at this rpm (yes/tune was only for passing this test, at 750 that would actually be negative timing....).

I've had my redtop for 3 yrs or so and killed it a few times with alternator troubles (too close to header/pulley too small...), I'd thought it was the batteries fault but since I permanently resolved other issues it's been a dream.....mine's mounted right inside my passenger 'toolwell' right behind my passenger seat. Use 0 or 00 (I used 000, overkill but I like it ) wire and it's VERY handy to install a kill switch right their as well. I've driven it down to 3V's when an alt died and I just had to carry on to a parts store a few miles away....can't kill it! I saw a racecar BADLY bent up and battery dented.....they figured it was dead but crossed posts for kicks and welded their leads to it;^) Their are some other brands these days as well, some might be shorter/smaller than the optima.

It's generally a lot cheaper to just get another diff as used may range from free to $150 for common ratios and more if ratios are rare. The only time you need to go into a diff for ratio changes is usually because you have a rare NISMO set of gears alone to be installed in which you need a donor diff and a qualified shop to setup the gears. When you have a NISMO set they're generally very rare so you want to be sure they're setup right. A bud has some 3.36 NISMO R200 R&P's he's asked me to sell and if/when I get to installing my 3.15's I won't be cutting any corners on a proper install. Ross (unfortunately I can't always be cheap) C

quote: Originally posted by Ross C: Hmm, your links weren't working for me Owen. OK, got them now and they are obviously as you described, is that what you're trying to show? (I know you were dissatisfied but isn't that a personal thing/not site business?) We've seen 4 pots before...

quote: Originally posted by Drax240z: I didn't open the lid on mine either, 2 holes punched in the top of the can. Its a little messy, but at least you know you'll be able to get at it again. OK, I'll bite.....how do you seal the holes effectively on the lid till your next use? Duct tape? Silicone..... Hammerite is a v. good metal paint that can be used on rusty surfaces as well. A skilled local welder uses only this product on all his items, he makes countless restaurant chairs/tables and all sorts of items that see variable weather and frequent use. I used it the first time with my air gun last year to paint my front suspension and it's stood up very well. It's only available at Colour Your World chain around here AFAIK, YMMV.

quote: Originally posted by pparaska: But also remember that the newer heads for the SBC flow so well on the exhaust side that single pattern cams begin to make sense again. OK, but it'd take some convincing for me to come full circle..these fully ported Lt1's (ie. fine flowing heads) have tried many cams and they're still on dual pattern typically, not a wide splay but dual nonetheless. Even if total lift is identical they've staggered duration, (and removing cats doesn't change these results much) , just GM's offerings below but one local guy has a box full of dyno slips on a highly mod'd NA LT1 and I only recall discussion of duals http://www.sallee-chevrolet.com/Cam_Specs/GMPP_Small_Block.html

quote: Originally posted by Kevin Shasteen: Ross, Is that ZZ4 in your Z? If so-what trans are you running & how well does your Z hook, what rear gears & tire sizes are you running? Kevin, (Yea,Still an Inliner) Kevin here's my setup: 1998 4 bolt 350 full roller shortblock edelbrock rpm heads/victor jr/performer carb -stewart water pump -ZZ4 cam, comp cam springs/pushrods/keepers etc -1.6 Gold race on intake/1.52 Chromolies on exhaust Trans is 700R4, diff 3.7LSD. Car hooks VERY well IMO, 1st is sorta useless with the engines flat powerband right off idle...WOT but driver control makes it sane A nice blast is scratching solidly 1st/2nd/3rd on shifts. Maybe I'll do some Gtech runs before this EFI install. Tires were SZ50's (still my favourite!) 225/50/16's for past few years with fine manners and last year has been 245/45/16's AVS sports for street and A032R Advans for track (and some street ). It would hook better with softer springs/shocks but then the high speed track stuff would suffer which I live for AIR, my rear springs are 350 ftlb and 5ways set at 2 for street (1 didnt' control rebound enough) and autox with 3 fine for roadracing. Up front I don't recall spring rates offhand but similar and shocks at 1 for street/2 autox/3 roadrace. Some experienced drivers/instructors (I'm quite green at this aspect) commented last summer the spring/shock combo is ideal and the car is very neutral in cornering. I know it 'rails' v. smoothly now in comparison to the pre coilover/tokico setup so I'm pleased.

Hey Rich, you back at Vict. yet?? You and Greg can come over together for my mod party You just lit a light in my head I can get the same Riken's (well as my dads anyhow) in 16x7 in +20mm offset!! His are all zero offset as us 280ZX's normally stick to and I'm thinking the +20 may locate him perfectly within his wheelwell almost....and if not a 1/8" spacer would do it and perhaps v. mild inner well massaging, these are the flush outer chromed face 5 star Riken's. How much room if any did Kurt have on the inside? Big problem with my dad's was it wasn't just rubbing....it was getting cut on a v. sharp inner edge so got parked quickly and we'd discovered we were missing 30% throttle as well so never did get a full WOT test as I couldn't convince him his new proxes tread was worth sacrificing, go figure

perfect timing... As soon as I'm rested up from this damn bug I'm going at my EFI install.... planned to drop my fuel tank and fully paint it up with POR15 or equivalent as well as under body/straps in same area....good idea or another product recomended? Anyone use Hammerite? I plan to wirebrush it all first (stiff brush in a drill/works good for stripping down loose stuff etc), degrease and paint.....