Modern Motorsports Ltd

quote: Originally posted by pparaska: Cool. As I've read before, and you've again reiterated it - the guys at Ground Control are on the ball... I'll reiterate their susp. experience. They don't have near the same experience with 280ZX's but nailed my setup down first try for my mixed roadracing/autox setup. I'm a rookie as roadrace drivers go but a few others v. experienced commented on how neutral/balanced the ride/setup was so I based my thoughts on that. on the 5 way Illumina's I found they need to be at least '3' for roadracing and 2 or 1 for autox to get my responsiveness at lower speed. Just my exp. and YMMV. Mike Kelly, do you know for sure with your planned wheels/tires you have room for a spring perch beside your tread b/t tread and strut? I didn't so had to go to 7" springs. Once I swap to my camber plates I'll be able to step back to an 8 or possible (doubt it) a 9" spring. Just curious....they sent me 8's and they interfered a LOT which ticked me off as I told them my EXACT setup which susp. wise was quite basic....I'd of likely stepped straight to camber plates initially to keep a longer (8" min.) spring. ------------------ Of all the things I've lost, I miss my mind the most.

kvrperformance, don't have a URL handy but I"ve run their carbon fibre street pad for 4yrs plus on 4 different calipers and all were v. good. May need just 'slight' heat in them, I haven't noticed it but a friend with a v. heavy domestic car mentioned that. They're VERY rotor friendly/fadefree (roadracing my car)/long lasting. I don't own shares/stocks or have any relation to them. BE SURE to follow their recc'd break in procedure and if they don't tell you ask (they often assume you know, their fault but doesn't help us out). PS I found them about same price as the crap nissan pads offered for me ride.

quote: Originally posted by John Adkins: Hey guys, <snip> When I tell people how I'm gathering parts to put a V8 in my 240Z they say I will make it front-heavy and destroy its weight distribution... But I don't think I could make the weight distribution on the Z as bad as an 64%/36% FWD car (except if used a big block mounted non-setback style). John, don't sweat it. You're at the right place here where hybridz owners tell you the facts and not guesses. Their's a good number of cars here with fine weight distributions. My daily driver '80 280ZX 350 sbc w/ 7/8's fuel and me in the seat is 50.0/50.0 in 'autox/roadrace' form (no spare tire or extra crap in the car). It costs a bit of money to really change it from my initial 52/48 or so to 50/50 but things you can do when you have the funds like an optima batt/alum. rad/alum heads etc......nothing you HAVE to do initially if funds aren't their. They won't even be near you so don't sweat it. I was at a roadracing event and a large honday contingent showed up from Vancouver. The 2 most highly modified cars with a lot of dough into their Honda's weren't even close, just annoying (they got blackflagged;^). Enjoy your plans and the car will put a grin on you:-) ------------------ Of all the things I've lost, I miss my mind the most.

Ron Tyler ran a custom aluminum one he had built at a place with a high speed balancer (not common at all I was told), his car I've been told be quite a few now was the smoothest V8z (Lt1/T56) they'd ever ridden/driven. My father now has his powertrain and will finish his swap this spring. I know the high speed balancing can't hurt but the lightweight alum. has to help a lot as well. He also swore by his pricier GM motor mounts that he felt were of a superiour rubber to the generic Sealed Power and others etc. Just passing that on..

quote: Originally posted by BLKMGK: Ya' know... with so many of us going to 3.7LSD and T56 trannies and then finding we don't get enough RPM at cruise perhaps this is something that should be looked at more? The 3.9 R200s are supposed to be somewhat common, what about deeper gears that that? Would the .2 difference over the 3.7 make a big difference? What would it take to get a decent cruise RPM? I'm not yet to the point of having to worry abotu this but am thinking ahead on it. Would a 4 series gear make first useless? BLKMGK: -1st is already useless even with a stock Lt1 in a 240Z, Ron Tyler only used 1st ONCE with his OE Lt1/T56 240Z, I'm quite certain 1st is quite useless for many of use here when we're not on drag radials or R compounds -what highway rpm's are you looking for? at 1000 rpm and higher mine makes enough torque to easily lope along with no luggin -yes, GM 6spds were designed for GM to meet EPA standards;a .5 6th gear is not all the heaven some think it is, Miata's do it in nice fashion in their newer ones with a 'closer ratio' 6spd and 3.6 diff's or so with a .8 6th overdrive (not my choice of gears, but work well with that car) -3.9 is only 5% over a 3.7 and <100rpm gain on an 1800rpm 6th gear cruise, I wouldn't put much effort into 3.9's vs. 3.7's, 4.11's would be v. worthwhile IMO and could make 3rd /4th etc a lot of fun on a mild-mid motor

yeah, a local guy runs the toyota trans behind his 400hp rover V8 (highly modified/all custom), he buys the trans like 6 packs at the pull it yards as they're so cheap....(he's strictly autox/hill climb)

Great to read your various posts here Terry:-) I also wanted to point out it seems that simply 'bumpy' is mentioned as a detrimental road surface for a live/solid axle. Most may associate this with backroads. I've yet to drive or see a roadcourse where I wouldn't be using those FIA curbs to maximize my times by turn radius etc or come across bumps on the actual roadcourse/even with new pavement. I just didn't want newbies to lapping days/motorsports etc thinking they wouldn't encounter bumps/curbs that they'd be driving thru. I run with a few 4th gen camaro's and even the one that spent a lot of $$$$$ can't take a curb/bumpy twist like I can, he's always kicked out at that piont and has to work that into his approacch line/corner exit. I can't quantify the overall time difference it would be as it may be rather minimal but I know my preference for my non-monster drag use is IRS. I think Pauli summed it up with a lot less babble than I

Glad you got that sorted Dave. FWIW, if you can use a 'standard' HEI dizzy then your intake dizzy boss is at same height as all others...(the dizzy shafts never changed in length etc) so therefore dizzy is in same locale as all others. Some numbers I should hang onto and add to as I have other intakes/carbs so builders can learn the possible combos.... UPS showed up today:-) Unwrapped the proflo, some quick measurements: 7-5/8" from v. bottom/base of Vic. Jr to top of TB flange on pro flo setup -on my vic. Jr. to top of my 1406 edelbrock carb air cleaner flange is also 7-5/8's but my setup includes 1/4" of spacer/insulater gaskets So where is the thinner TB or pro flo clearance lost? in vic. jr. 'spacer' mostly... -in comparing intakes my 'short' 2975 Vic. jr. has a 5/8" vertical lip to base of carb (reason I wanted to fit a spacer in their for min. 1" from prior dyno data etc), whereas the proflo vic. jr. is based on their unit with a taller base which has a 1-1/2" vertical lip at base of carb so this encouraged me that I won't need as much spacer as I'd wanted so the 1-3/16's xmember/hood clearance gained will all go to more air cleaner room which I"ll need as I don't think drop down will clear this TB near as smooth as the 1406 so will likely need a bit of a 'lift' -measured up my spacers and they're currently 1-3/16's for Xmember/frame and 15/16's of an inch for strut spacers.....xmember as I had stock over 1" but much thicker seemed excessive so used the 1-3/16's stock....15/16's as my control arms aren't yet horizonatal (still slope down from centre/outward) so will see how it all settles out....hope to get another 1"+ hood clearance from oilpan mod/mount alterations PS not excited about cutting a huge hole in my firewall to fit that 'large' proflo wiring end plug/harness thru....trying to see past that..(and not wanting to do a full resplice)

quote: Originally posted by kc6wfs: Hi Ross, I have the spacers and was going to wait till I saw if I needed then. Dave Booth is your latch modified as per JTR and still interfering? If so how far fwd does your engine/HEI have to go to clear? If not why not (it's a one time mod that simplifies the rest or so most have said/not req'd on my ZX though). Pete, I'd be beaming with 1/2" hood clearance, I've never had more than a 1/4" and more often closer to an 1/8". If I had 1/2" I'd be seeing if it's any more than that and putting a 3/16's phenolic or similar spacer under your carb to max the top end...I use a simple 'roll' of clay on top of my air cleaner with paper on either end to check hood clearance BTW. We're so overwhelmed with torque on the bottom I think the Vic. Jr. is misthought of as a race only intake. I was hesitant to change to it but killing any bottom end is helpful in my case (and it sure didnt' kill much). That brake creep/bottom end roast on a throttle twitch is useless to me and annoying. I can see 3/4 throttle etc, but a quick twitch and light up?? Anyhow....My halfshafts have stood up v. well (I'm not by nature one to smash shockloads into my setup at the light; I preload if necessary and save the parts...that's why some LT1 OEM camaro's can run into 11's on stock diff and some can't hit 12's without blowing them up all day long) and my geometry is not ideal and power is plenty so I'm working on getting cooler air in and creating excess room for my proflo so I can run it with a good filter and phenolic carb spacer I have which neccessitate the xmember/strut spacers. FWIW, their's an old style Vic. Jr. on ebay right now which I'd snap up if I didn't have the proflo. They've dyno'd BETTER than the new ones. The new ones you could bolt on a normal truck and they'd work says a local engine building guru (new ones were made more streetable). just my .02c Canadian and worth what you paid for it;^)

Thanks for the pic BLKMGK! If their was one local I'd likely snap it up but shipping will take me for a lot. Zfan & others: did you install the xmember to frame spacers? I'm not sure how tall the rpm-airgap is but I know my 280ZX is more 'vertically' challenged for clearance than 'normal' Z JTR setups. I'm just finishing some 1-1/16" xmember/frame spacers and ~1"strut spacers that should allow me to run a 3" air cleaner and 1/2-3/4" spacer on my Victor Jr. intake (single plane rpm basically, I didn't need any more torque but really like the top end of a single plane wiht my combo (had a dual plane for a while). It'd be great for us to document vertical clearance/hood results with specific combos as this is often something others leave till the last that gets sacrifificed with inferior air cleaner heights etc. I'm looking for something similar to the SUBTLE-Z hood at 1" or so height, but will likely have it made local (Z06's breathe through a 7"x2" narrowing of their intake setup for reference). If I did do it I'd seal it to my aircleaner to truly get cold air as this is what I see as it's advantage. Mixing it with engine bay air at lower speeds just negates cold air intake and that's 5% power I'd like to hang onto:-) Engine bay heat hasn't been a problem in my 5 yrs running to date, but it is extracted somewhat out my 'normal' 280ZXT ducts.

Firstly, is it the edelbrock 1406? Either way they have a VERY GOOD tuning manual for all their carbs and it's online in complete form at www.edelbrock.com. A bog is either too little ignition/not enough fuel/too much fuel. Have you played with your acc. pump lever arm at all? Should have 3 notches and you can try a notch closer to the carb for a bigger shot and further away for a smaller shot of fuel. If you do have a performer series setup the WOT phase of the metering rods is actuated by vaccuum signal acting on the metering rod springs. Edelbrock explains this in their guide. You switch to the lightest or stiffest spring and if it helps then progressively step back on spring pairs till the bog returns/go back to previous pair and that's optimal. Do you have enough initial timing into the motor? Chevies usually need min. 12degrees BTDC and often more. What are you running? How are the secondaries on your carb activated? If they're vaccum they should be fine (I assume they are). Carbs can get a bad name easy as they're easy to 'poke at' without getting into manuals but it's hard to nail them down without learning up on them. Most EFI users make a sizable investment and HAVE to read up to tune their stuff hence some of the discrepancies. Also make sure you don't have any vaccuum leaks as well. (and as mentioned it's always good to know your fuel psi is correct for the carb as a starting point)

Here's his written info: "These internal wrenching hex-head bolts have been used int the machine tool industry for an eternity. They have shoulders of whatever size you specify, with thread engagement and legnths as required. The heads have heads appropriate for the threads used, so going to a 12mm shoulder to a 10mm threaded section should be no problem at all. I buy mine at a local industrial hardware store called McFadden-Dale. I have never looked into this particular application for a usage, but they most definately make a bolt that should fit closely with your requirements, and can be used from there with minor machining adaptations." If anyone rounds up a PN/source for a suitable bolt we're all ears:-) Or just gets to measuring for bushings...

I'd just take a wheel to any local autoshop or tire shop and if the first one doesn't have any you'll come across one shortly that would. They're not uncommon and any larger parts or tire shop should have stock or be able to get it v. shortly. If I wasn't off out of town tomorrow I'd get your specs on your wheel shank depth and ship you a set on fine terms. If you can wait till I return I can check at that time if you strike out with local shops. I have one or two practically new sets (one might even be new). If it's inconvenient to take a wheel in just measure your shank depth of mag and get the closest shank that's just shy of that depth.

12x1.25, most any decent tire shop should have some If you were up here I"d have a full/new set for you:-)

quote: My concern was to have emergency brake capability as well, so I had to go to the calipers. [/b] I"m with you all the way their Pete. The 'emergency' part if primary concern and parking feature just comes with it. Maybe on open road etc you can 'runout' but on track or even some other situations being able to instantly lock that rear can save your bacon. It can rapidly redirect your car if your cliffbound and have the right reaction (saved one guys bacon at SIR who was too hot in the wrong corner..)

can't you locate it flush w/ the bottom of your tank or lower? Don't see why the need to pressurize it, OE VW unit's and the homemade 12oz. reserve tanks as per JTR etc work fine. Unless I misread and their's another purpose to this other than to just keep the fuel pump/motor supplied under a slosh/long sweeper etc??

Hey Dave, I've been offlist for a few days.....got your exhaust done? I'd reccomend the Crane HI6 units as they're fully digital and rpm adjustments are simply by the dials on the unit, no pills/extra costs. I've still got mine new (HI6 fireball) in the box with HEI adaptor as I didn't get to installing it yet...(barely got motor installed to go racing last summer:-). If it's not needed with my new pro flo it's available.

quote: Originally posted by kc6wfs: Ross. Sounds good. Will it work with a stock type HEI unit??? Going to get the exhaust done right after the 1st. Did you see my latest pics of the "Z"?? They are here. http://www.geocities.com/kc6wfs/newv8pics.html Dave Booth Great stuff Dave! Any chevy with a swp I gotta like right off the bat Yes, the crane units and MSD's work fine with stock HEI as you have. They usually reccomend installing their matching coil (crane or MSD) but this isn't mandatory AFAIK and that could be done later on at any time (and leave you with a spare coil, it is nice to have spare electric parts....). I'm running the matching crane coil but will have to see what my proflo says about ignition compatibilities etc as their must be some issues as it has full timing control.

I ask about the air temp switch as Edelbrock put it in a poor position at rear of manifold near firewall where it'll get hot and not reflect ambient incoming air. Heard that from more than one now. Check the web I listed.. and you have the modified hood so can use the standard 3" up top..Those that can't clear it can run into drop base cleaner/linkage interference and I know I"ll be likely adding a rear vaccuum source, not sure if I"ll tap into the manifold or TB, seen both done. Good luck on your engine install:-)

Looking for feedback on this system now that I see Mike's using it [sweet car Mike!] (my 3500 unit is enroute)....Any problems at all? Where did you take vaccuum for PVC and power brakes from? Any hot start cooling problems (did you relocated your air temp switch?), what air cleaner assembly clears all linkage fine...what did you do for throttle linkage (doesn't look like my custom piece for my current Victor Jr. will work)....I came across a rather detailed web with a wicked Hotrod running it (he's deciphered the code in the ECU!) www.sonic.net/~mikebr/main.html and came across some info but he's running a HUGE cam so hard to say how much is relative...what size fuel lines are you using (feed/return, they spec 3/8's feed and 5/16's return, wondering how critical that is), and Mike you're running a 270H cam right? have you done a lot of optimizing with tuning? mpg? lastly, what psi is it spec'd to run at? PSS did you & Lee do your own hood mod's? thanks

quote: Originally posted by Morgan: Get a z32 turbo fuel pump and mount it in the fuel tank. It'll last forever and will do 500 horsepower easily. It's more work than an external pump, but it'll be much more reliable and probably cheaper if you get a decent price at a junkyard. Just weld the ring into your tank and off you go. Morgan, I'd love to do that if the logistics of mounting in tank weren't so daunting. It's a bit of an excercise just removing my intank sending unit/top cap assembly and getting it back in. I haven't seen a Z32TT pump but they have come highly rec'd and are $350US new at jobber price. I'm not a fan of making anything more difficult to service if ever needed either and take a lot of pride in my efforts to keep it an easy to work on/service car so that/install headache/cost are holding it back. SupraTT and the RX7TT are also highly rec'd.

Looks like most GN6's are running internal pumps http://www.gnttype.org/techarea/faq/techfaq2.html but they do mention this one I'll check out..I'll assume that sensitivity/lower hp is like a 2-300hp setup and won't affect my tuning much?? "External Bosch 287 Puller Pump This alternative involves mounting an external pump and pulling the fuel thru the stock in-tank pump. It delivers higher pressure and lots of volume. Advantages: Lots of volume. Available thru a variety of sources. Doesn't involve dropping the gas tank. Disadvantages: The volume can make tuning difficult, especially in lower HP cars. Small adjustments can result in big changes. An adjustable regulator is recommended to compensate for the increased fuel delivery and to aid in tuning. Noise can be a problem unless extreme care is taken in isolating the mounting of the pump (with rubber washers). Needs additional wiring and a relay. May heat the fuel." ------------------ Of all the things I've lost, I miss my mind the most.

Thanks BLKMGK. A good US friend offered me his Paxton "Advertised to deliver 1100 HP worth of fuel @45 psi (should be enough fer ya It is a bit large though...about 3" dia and mabey 6" long w/ -10 ports. I also have a matching (replaceable element) fuel filter. " for the right price but I got some feedback on DIYEFI "I have heard some less than positive reviews of that pump and of the SX when used in a daily driver. Apparently they can flow like a fire hose but aren't the most reliable. " So I thought I had a wicked fuel pump for pretty cheap but am now uncertain. Mine will be an outside/external mount pump but I still don't want a howler at all. When I get a chance I'll get to surfing some GN sites. Local's have suggested any V8 OE pump or turbo/super charged V6 OE pump....but noone with the experience/knowledge to give firm advice.

Well amongst my final exams I took a few seconds to put in my bid on a v. tightwire finish... http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/aw-cgi/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=521638598&r=0&t=0&showTutorial=0&ed=976854499&indexURL=0&rd=1 freaky realizing you got it by <$8 overall (to beat minimum increment) ..and came out on top with the edelbrock 3500 EFI multiport unit built on the Victor Jr:-) This is the setup I've wanted as I'm a HUGE fan of the Victor Junior and their interface offers same as SDS but I can keep a dizzy and still retain full electronic timing control with all GM sensors etc. anyhow, not my question.....it's not coming with a fuel pump, what's my best bang/buck pump to support 450hp (flywheel)/6500rpm...and if a significantly cheaper pump can be had for 400hp/6000rpm I'd like to know that too. Has to be a reliable unit. To date most reccomendations are for in tank OE's like Z32/RX7TT etc and I want an outside pump....think I need 40psi min.... thanks ------------------ Of all the things I've lost, I miss my mind the most.

For roller rockers you can't beat the value of this sale at Sallee on Comp Cams chromoly's at $225, usual is ~$300 and they are a v. good rocker IMNSHO. I pasted in the some info below. They're commonly used on up to 700hp setups (ie. last step before girdle etc.http://www.sallee-chevrolet.com/sales.html Comp Cams Pro Magnum Rocker Arms Limited Time Offer Incredibly Strong, made of 8650 chromemoly steel. Pro Magnum Rocker Arms have less weight (5%) at the valvethen most aluminum rockers. Super Duty Large Diameter Trunion with more needle bearing. Other features include and integral pushrod seat that insures accuracy and saves weight, a unique rocker design also provides plenty of clearance for most high performance valve springs and an affordable price. 1311-16, CS 1.55 3/8 Pro Magnum, Chevy V8 265-400** $225.00 1314-16, CS 1.55 7/16 Pro Magnum, Chevy V8 265-400*-** $225.00 * - Must use screw-in studs and guide plates. ** - Will not replace late model rail rocker.